[bj96]

My 2006 Electra 5s (TCI model) sputters/misfires when cold and revved a little above the idling rpm. However, there is no (kick) starting problem, nor high speed running issues (easily goes 80-90 kph) and doesn't misfires once warmed up.

Bike is DIY serviced and I know the history of maintenance. Ignition coil, TCI unit, timing pickup, carb etc are all factory fitted (18y+). Both left and right wiring set was replaced around 4-5y ago. Compression is also good (done only ~24k kms). Spark plug is new (NGK Iridium). However, the battery is old and almost dead (shows ~11v when sitting, can't power even horn when engine is off or just idling). I am suspecting battery to be the culprit (for TCI), but, before I change that (Exide 14AH costs about 4k), looking for ideas what else could give this cold engine misfire/sputtering issues?

Tia,
-BJ

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by adrian

Looks like a fuel starvation issue at high rpms (WOT). Please check if the fuel cap vent is not clogged and also the float height of the carburetor.

Where exactly is the vent hole? I presume it was not there in the old models which have the round cap. For the float height, are you sure it needs adjustment even if brand new?

Originally Posted by jeeva

You might want to check if those two soft material paddings after the carb at the intake manifold are seated properly. Worst case scenario is a leaky inlet valve or an eccentric governer shaft throwing the timing off at times.

Mine is a Electra so Ignition timing is Electronic; There is no distributor.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by bj96

looking for ideas what else could give this cold engine misfire/sputtering issues?

Tia,
-BJ

Perfectly normal in an engine fitted with a carburetor. The reason is that the pilot screw air fuel ratio is adjusted with engine in operating temperature. So till the engine reaches the operational temperature, the air fuel ratio will be off (lean). Similarly if you observe carefully, the motorcycle with a carburetor behaves different on early morning rides v/s evening rides and behaves differently in different seasons. A carburetor adjusted in winter season runs rich in monsoon season. The remedy is to adjust the pilot for each season (most probably will be a difference of a quarter to half turn of the pilot screw)

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Where exactly is the vent hole? I presume it was not there in the old models which have the round cap. For the float height, are you sure it needs adjustment even if brand new?

Actually it is there in the round cap of old models. Just dip the cap in a container filled with petrol and see the muck coming out of that.

As for the float height, even if the carburetor is new, you should check it using the clear tube method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbVvkYMPaSI

I bought a new carburetor for my UCE Bullet . It was an authorized Royal Enfield spare bought from an authorized Royal Enfield spare part dealer and on installing, petrol started to overflow. Had to open it and increase the float height to rectify the leakage.

In your case, if it is a float height issue, the float height will be higher than normal which will cause less petrol in the float bowl. This will lead to two scenarios 1. Petol in the bowl getting used up at wide open throttle causing a stall and 2. The main jet is not able to draw in petrol from the bowl due to reduced petrol level.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by adrian

In your case, if it is a float height issue, the float height will be higher than normal which will cause less petrol in the float bowl.

Adjusted the float to allow more fuel in the bowl but bent the tongue more to the extent that the pin was not going back smoothly. Adjusted a bit more and she started in the second kick. Felt smoother but couldn't hold on the idle. Took it for a ride but stalled midway - could not even reach 30kmph without stuttering.
Am clueless on what to do next

Originally Posted by tharian

Apart from the above, also check the size of the main jet.

No both the jets are 90 (new and old)

[tharian]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Adjusted the float to allow more fuel in the bowl but bent the tongue more to the extent that the pin was not going back smoothly. Adjusted a bit more and she started in the second kick. Felt smoother but couldn't hold on the idle. Took it for a ride but stalled midway - could not even reach 30kmph without stuttering.
Am clueless on what to do next



No both the jets are 90 (new and old)

To me it sounds like the carb itself. Maybe replace it with the old one just to check if this issue is resolved and if so, you can check the new carb once over and then try it again. It sounds like some passage is blocked inside.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by tharian

It sounds like some passage is blocked inside.

Found the culprit finally. It was this new Pacco make fuel filter. Post adjusting the float, by chance i opened the fuel cock and was surprised to find no fuel coming out from the needle valve. Tapped the filter but no success- after a few seconds the fuel came out in drops. Opened the line just after the fuel cock and petrol started trickling out. Wanted to bang my head
So this filthy piece only lets drops of fuel out instead of a smooth trickle. And yes, the metal mesh filter inside was not clogged. Don’t buy this- its available all over the Internet.

[Majumdarda]

Since last week, my Bullet 500 (Amun-Ra) has started to produce a typical noise. It gets minimised when I accelerate (or might be I am not able to hear). The sound is like riding an engine without oil. There are no issues with the oil as it's fully synthetic and has covered just 5000. The sound comes every time I ride and is not linked to cold / hot engine. During idling this sound is not audible. Sorry I am not able to attach the video, but it's like riding a machine without oil and seems to be coming from a hollow space. (What an imagination I have).

I have not observed any performance or starting / idling issues. My trusted mechanic had identified the issue as I was entering his shop, even before I said anything. Sorry I forgot what he said but the estimation was around ₹20k since part of engine has to be opened. He advised that I can ride with this, no issues, but better to avoid long rides.

I am sorry again for forgetting what he had deduced and does not look good if I go back to him to ask for the cause again. If possible, can you guys help me what might be the cause , what all parts needs to be procured (so that I can buy them as and when possible), and most importantly what will be the after effects if not attended to immediately. I assume that it's natural owing to age of motorcycle. Total odo reading will be approximately 73-75k and young at 11 years.

I will attach the video/audio as I am able to figure that out.

Thank you in advance for all your suggestions.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

...

Here is the video; I think he was referring to some rods. Will that be connecting rod? No ideas. You guys hear it and help me out. The typical sound is audible around the 5th second, then again around the 13th till 17th seconds. Look out for that hollow kind of sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0xcoTE9N5U

[masterChief007]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

The typical sound is audible around the 5th second, then again around the 13th till 17th seconds. Look out for that hollow kind of sound.

https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=b0xcoTE9N5U

In old CI I would have doubted the noise as tappet noise (which needs adjustment properly to alter the pushrod length) and there is a mechanism to adjust it yourself. I am not sure if such a thing can be done on UCE. What are the RE service centers telling you to do, what is the exact diagnosis of your mechanic? Did he say what needs to be done?

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Sorry I forgot what he said but the estimation was around ₹20k since part of engine has to be opened.

Trying to jolt your brain (not posting as a sound diagnosis) :
Did your mechanic mention about

1. Hydraulic tappets ?
2. Cam wheels ?
3. Oil pump ?
4. Crankshaft


From my point of view, I would say just one thing - be it is Semi Synthetic or Fully synthetic engine oil, never go over a mileage of 4000 Kms.

regards adrian