[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by Gansan

Is it RX 100 or RXG 135? RX 100 engines were square engines and known for their longevity. Did you re-bore the engine at any stage? If not, then it is phenomenal for a two stroke. What 2T oil do you use?

I always used Castrol Jet-X for my 2 strokes, but even then they needed re-boring around 40K KM.

Only 40 k km?! Thats pretty much on the lower side... unless you used it in rallys of something! Dosen't say anything good about the overpriced Castrol crap. Am forced to juse Jet X myself, for want of options... :( Hopefully Motul 510 (semi-synth) will be available sometime soon...

Originally Posted by Gansan

It is SAE 10W30, API SJ (JASO MA). Made by Idemitsu but branded as HH 4T+. I service the bike every 4000 KM /six months (whichever occurs earlier) and replace the oil every time, never bothered about the extended drain interval. I will wash the air filter with Kerosene and oil it (using 2T oil) myself once at the 2K Km mark in between the services.

The fellow at the House of Honda told me the oil in the sump was Servo and will be replaced with the same, when I went there for the first service. He also told me a new oil called 4T+ was coming and will be used from the second service onwards! This was in March 2000.

Thats good. So the thinner oil seems not to compromise on engine life, as many people fear...

You are lucky if they are really using Idemitsu HH oil. My HH service centre has been using MAK 20W40 of a grossly obsolete API grade.

Originally Posted by five46

@ the thread author:
Also remember to change your spark plug once every year.

Why??? There can be no possible rationale behind changing it every year! It should be changed when it shows signs of wear. That depends more on usage rather than time.

Originally Posted by bblost

That sounds pretty much like what I do, myself.

1. Fuel: always fill from a good place. Stick to the same bunk. Always maintain a milage log. This will tell you if your bunk has started cheating with quality/ quantity.

3. Engine Oil: Keep checking it. When replacing oil, drain completely and fill to the correct level. Not more not less. Never mix used oil with new oil unless doing a top up in some remote location and have no other option.

5. Air Filter: Use standard air filter, replace every year.

1. Useful to stick to one bunk if you know for sure that it dosent cheat. And yes, very useful to keep a log (I do it, religiously), as you never know when they will start cheating!

3. If oil is not due for change, and only the level has dropped, there is no harm in topping it up with fresh oil of the same brand/grade/viscosity.

5. Why replace every year?? Again this is dependant on how much you use the vehicle. AFAIK foam filters can be washed properly and reused until they show signs of tearing/disintegration. Paper filters usually need replacement after x km as specified by the manufacturer (as long as there is no physical damage or riding in v dusty conditions).

Originally Posted by RX135

It is RX-135 (not RXG). And, not at all without its share of problems

I had to rebore it quite early in its life. Not due to any engine problem but my brother took it on highway without checking engine oil, result was seized engine It was, of course, not engine's fault.

Second time, immediately after changing piston rings, the piston itself conked off without any specific reason. I first thought, it was the connecting rod, but when we checked later, it was the piston broken. Never seen any before! May be poorly fitted and hence, misaligned piston rings?

However, it is all forgiven just because the way that engine screams, responds to the throttle, the way those gears shift smoothly (nothing comes close to a Yamaha, not even a Honda) and the way it handles. It is not a dragster, it is not the quickest or the fastest, it has hardest suspension, it has pathetic FE (31-36 kmpl) but despite of that, it is still too much fun to give way for these new kids on the block. These new butter smooth 4-strokers just don't give that adrenaline rush.

Can you please tell us which 2t oil you used?

Guys, when you post details about how long your engine has lasted, the time duration is only relevant until your engine needs any kind of work/part replacement/reboring/changing rings or whatever. Mentioning how far it ran after replacing x parts is of no real use; because any engine can keep running for a very long time if not forever as long as you keep replacing parts.

And as we all know, once an engine is opened by our amazing mechanics, things will very rarely be the same as what came from the company. So the idea is to prolong this time as much as possible. Oil would be one of the most important factors in deciding engine life, and hence mentioning it would at least give a sketchy idea about the performance of a given brand.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

3. If oil is not due for change, and only the level has dropped, there is no harm in topping it up with fresh oil of the same brand/grade/viscosity.

Have been very strongly advised by my mechanic to never top up oil. Unless its an emergency. The rational being that the old oil will degrade the new oil. Plus the idea of oil to keep any metal filings or grit or anything unwanted suspended away from the critical parts. By adding new oil you simply dilute the amount of suspended particulate matter. But it still remains inside the engine. Any rationale behind top up instead of a complete drain and refill.

5. Why replace every year?? Again this is dependant on how much you use the vehicle.

City traffic. I am paranoid about my bike getting asthma.

Guys, when you post details about how long your engine has lasted, the time duration is only relevant until your engine needs any kind of work/part replacement/reboring/changing rings or whatever.

My RE Tbird is still running strong.
2003 July, an estimated 75k + kms done.
The only thing replaced engine wise is a small crown wheel that controls the larger crown wheels that in turn control the tappets.
Of course the tires, chains, cables etc have run thru the regular life cycle and replaced accordingly.

A detailed thread on my Bike's service is available here:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...-pictures.html

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

Only 40 k km?! Thats pretty much on the lower side... unless you used it in rallys of something! Dosen't say anything good about the overpriced Castrol crap. Am forced to juse Jet X myself, for want of options... :( Hopefully Motul 510 (semi-synth) will be available sometime soon...

I used it (Shogun) for commuting to office, pretty much the same way I use my Splendor. And I think re-boring around 40K KM was about par for a high power two stroke like Shogun.


Thats good. So the thinner oil seems not to compromise on engine life, as many people fear...

You are lucky if they are really using Idemitsu HH oil. My HH service centre has been using MAK 20W40 of a grossly obsolete API grade.

It is indeed Idemitsu oil. I keep a spare can with me for top up, as my bike has become a bit thirsty for oil.

Why??? There can be no possible rationale behind changing it every year! It should be changed when it shows signs of wear. That depends more on usage rather than time.

Right. No need to change spark plugs/Air filters every year. I am currently on only my third spark plug and second air filter, in spite of giving a free hand to HHASS as far as replacement of critical parts is concerned.

Find my responses in bold.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by bblost

Have been very strongly advised by my mechanic to never top up oil. Unless its an emergency. The rational being that the old oil will degrade the new oil. Plus the idea of oil to keep any metal filings or grit or anything unwanted suspended away from the critical parts. By adding new oil you simply dilute the amount of suspended particulate matter. But it still remains inside the engine. Any rationale behind top up instead of a complete drain and refill.

I'm not talking about skipping scheduled oil changes! The point is that there is no evidence to suggest that topping up in the interim is harmful. Can't agree with your mechanic. Mechanics are not at all a reliable source of info.

City traffic. I am paranoid about my bike getting asthma.

LOL!! Don't worry, your sparky lives at the very heart of the place that produces the pollution. City traffic or not... its wear that matters.

I used it (Shogun) for commuting to office, pretty much the same way I use my Splendor. And I think re-boring around 40K KM was about par for a high power two stroke like Shogun.

Now you've got me real scared. I'm using Castrol Jet X in my Shogun. My engine will last only 40 k km??? :(

It has currently done about 20k, so that leaves just another 20k!

I'm depressed... :(

Note from the Team-BHP Support Team : Please use the "edit" button if posting within 20 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post.

Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

I'm not talking about skipping scheduled oil changes! The point is that there is no evidence to suggest that topping up in the interim is harmful.

Unless you have a leak somewhere, Why do you need a top up between scheduled oil changes. I change my engine oil at every 7k kms or 6 months.
Have only observed a 200 - 300 ml drop in level. That too only if the bike was on a really long highway ride with some non stop full day riding.

Mechanics are not at all a reliable source of info.

Its a very generic statement and I completely disagree with it.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by bblost

Unless you have a leak somewhere, Why do you need a top up between scheduled oil changes. I change my engine oil at every 7k kms or 6 months.
Have only observed a 200 - 300 ml drop in level. That too only if the bike was on a really long highway ride with some non stop full day riding.

That depends on the bike. Some bikes seem to drink oil even when fairly new. Eg. - Pulsars.

Which oil lasts 7,000 km in a bike? Which bike??

Its a very generic statement and I completely disagree with it.

Some rare exceptions could be there... but v rare. It also depends how you look at it...

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

Now you've got me real scared. I'm using Castrol Jet X in my Shogun. My engine will last only 40 k km??? :(

It has currently done about 20k, so that leaves just another 20k!

I'm depressed... :(

That was what my then mechanic (he has since emigrated to Australia) told me. He said with a MAX 100 R or a Samurai engine I could have expected to delay it some more. I had no reason to disbelieve him, as he was one of the best in Chennai. His name was Lionel Moss, may be some Chennai TBHPians knew him/have heard of him.

In case you are thinking of Nulon, been there, done that! I still had to re-bore.

Originally Posted by bblost

Unless you have a leak somewhere, Why do you need a top up between scheduled oil changes. I change my engine oil at every 7k kms or 6 months.
Have only observed a 200 - 300 ml drop in level. That too only if the bike was on a really long highway ride with some non stop full day riding.

As the engine grows older, it wears out and tends to burn some oil. I now have to top up a little, a couple of times between services. This never was the case till about the 50K - 60K mark.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

Which oil lasts 7,000 km in a bike? Which bike??

I have only one bike.

[Technocrat]

That depends on the bike. Some bikes seem to drink oil even when fairly new. Eg. - Pulsars.

I disagree, what intervals have you seen a Pulsar Drinking oil?

Besides I dont understand the concept of top up, whats wrong with replacing the entire oil, why mix a brand new oil with an old oil?

@bblost- Isnt that too long a period to change oils? IMHO 5k is the max you should stretch.

I have been in a habit of changing my bike's engine oil between 2500-3000 kms & it has always been beneficial on the engine performance.

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by Technocrat

Besides I dont understand the concept of top up, whats wrong with replacing the entire oil, why mix a brand new oil with an old oil?

@bblost- Isnt that too long a period to change oils? IMHO 5k is the max you should stretch.

I have been in a habit of changing my bike's engine oil between 2500-3000 kms & it has always been beneficial on the engine performance.

No harm in top-up with the same brand of oil, in between two scheduled services. Even owners' manuals recommend Periodic oil level check and top-up if required. But the oil must be changed at the next scheduled service.

BTW the recommended drain interval for HH 4T+ oil is 6000 KM.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by Gansan

That was what my then mechanic (he has since emigrated to Australia) told me. He said with a MAX 100 R or a Samurai engine I could have expected to delay it some more. I had no reason to disbelieve him, as he was one of the best in Chennai. His name was Lionel Moss, may be some Chennai TBHPians knew him/have heard of him.

In case you are thinking of Nulon, been there, done that! I still had to re-bore.

I'v heard of Shoguns lasting more than that and less too.

Nulon... why would I even think about it?? But now that you mentioned it, I did use some PTFE based additive (in the 2t tank) when my Shogun was new. I actually wanted Nulon, but could not get it anywhere. Don't remember the brand now. Feel v guilty about it now, as I think about it... but I was a school kid with a new bike and I guess I fell for the advertising... :(

Originally Posted by bblost

I have only one bike.

RE Tbird?! So is 7,000 km the normal drain period for that bike? Sounds too good to be true. Sorry dunno anything about them.

[Technocrat]

May be but I havent ever done that & wont do it ever either.

If the quantity goes down on usage, I believe the oil's quality too would deteriorate. So changing oil seems like a better option to me than topping up.

[007]

Engine can stay in good condition as long you wish..!

.......provided you take due care of it.... as you do for your wife

In short you have to listen to every bit from it .. & respond as it desires...and not as you wish.

[bblost]

I think the normal service period is 3k.

Having observed the colour and texture of the oil, I started experimenting. Then found that there is no loss in performance or any issue, if I change the oil at 7k kms.
So I stick to it.

I would not recommend the same to anyone.
The oil btw is Castrol Magnatec.

The only extra care is what I mentioned in the very first post of mine in this thread.
Never make the bike scream when her throat is cold.

Also, I have one big advantage.
My job offers me flexi timing.
My apartment gives me a view of the road that has the max about of traffic on it.
So I simply ride/ drive is very low traffic situations.
And usually I take longer (far longer) routes just to avoid traffic.

Plus I use google earth to find new routes that avoid traffic.
There are so many different routes between my office and home (13kms) with very overlap.


and Dear 007:
Bikes talk in a language I can understand.
They hum, whir, thump and makes all those beautiful sounds. A simple change in tenor or pitch and convey so much to me.

Wives go blah blah, blaaaaaaah blah blah.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by Technocrat

I disagree, what intervals have you seen a Pulsar Drinking oil?

Besides I dont understand the concept of top up, whats wrong with replacing the entire oil, why mix a brand new oil with an old oil?

@bblost- Isnt that too long a period to change oils? IMHO 5k is the max you should stretch.

I have been in a habit of changing my bike's engine oil between 2500-3000 kms & it has always been beneficial on the engine performance.

Sorry, I don't have any personal experience with Pulsars - never owned one. The oil drinking thing is what I'v heard from other users.

With the newer and extended drain period oils, 2,500 - 3,000 km oil changes are waste of good oil. HH/Gulf/Elf, etc are good for 5,000 km easily, under average driving conditions. HH in fact recommends 6,000 km as mentioned by Gansan.