[MechPrasad]

Originally Posted by Leepower

How much does this magnetic filter cost? Where can I find one? I need one for my 74 yezdi type b...

Not more than a hundred, available at almost all re aftermarket spare parts dealer.

You can replace the small magnet with a bigger one to avoid cleaning it too frequently.

[ElonSkum]

An oft-repeated question.

I have a Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2, that is currently going an overhaul.

Right now sprucing up the fuel tank. It has developed two patches of corrosion, around 2-3 sq inch in the area where it rubs against the seat , and a pinhole in the bend near the petcock.
I have a few queries. Do note that I am limited with options, due to my location, unavailability of online ordering and apes who pass themselves off as mechanics here.

For surface rust
_______________
-I plan to wire brush and sand, the rusted patches and a little area around, down to shiny metal.
-Perform "tinning" over this new exposed area. This would involve applying flux and spreading molten 60:40 lead/tin solder over this area. And, subsequently sand the new tinned area with fine grit. This is just an idea and I am more keen on it, as this I might be able to do myself.
OR
I can go for pure lead brazing, by vendors who braze those old-world kerosene stoves and lanterns. I am a little tentative taking this path - no matter how much you tell them, the tank would come back with new nicks and scratches.
OR
Apply some corrosion proofing paint? Need ideas here.


For internal rust proofing
__________________________

-For rust removal, I plan to go the electrolysis path. I wish I could use Hydrochloric Acid, but that stuff is nasty - I am in so much awe of it.
-For rust proofing, I plan to use 2-part epoxy paint. The one readily available here is Apcolite 2-Pack Epoxy Finish ( only white color ). I know, from my research here and on other sites, that epoxy, allegedly, in a few years time, clogs up the carb. But, I am yet to come upon someone who actually faced this issue, except a gentleman who had a carb clogged due to an improperly done epoxy job.
OR

- Are there any other fuel tank sealing options, that doesn't cost an arm and leg?

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by ElonSkum

An oft-repeated question....

Any specific reason why you need to redo the same tank instead of getting a second hand replacement?. Tanks for pulsar 180 are available in Gujri market for as low as 750. Of course you wont get a matching colour, but that looks to me as a better alternative.

As far as repairs are concerned , Brazing, tinning, filling would only be temporary fixes. You need to cut the rusted part and weld a new bent piece. That's the way body rust is repaired.

[ElonSkum]

Originally Posted by srini1785

Any specific reason why you need to redo ...

Well reasons are emotional as well as practical

Emotional
____________
I am very attached to this motorcycle. I would like to keep as many original components as possible, that it came along with from the factory.

Practical
____________
- I am presently located someplace, where there's no Gujri Market.
- Getting a second hand tank of this colour is impossible here, or any other place. Bajaj used this color, "Magic Silver", only for a short time in 2005 in 180 UG2, "Fear The Black" version - the first motorcycle in India with black alloy wheels and engine. They quickly shifted to a different shade of grey in UG3. I must have hardly seen more than 4 other Pulsar 180s of this color and vintage during my 7-8 years stay in Pune and Delhi.
- I don't want to buy a different colour tank and get it repainted. No one can match the factory paint-job. And it's frightfully expensive.
- The corrosion isn't so bad as it looks in the photographs. It's just surface rust and the area isn't visible, as it is hidden under the seat .
- I strongly feel that this tank if properly rust sealed would easily last another decade.

[ElonSkum]

An update!

Had been frightfully busy in my business here; The overhaul took a backseat.

But, finally managed to exterminate the surface pitted rust in the entirety. Was an extremely easy job. I hope someone reaches this post, and finds my tips handy.

Hydrochloric acid Method

1. Score some Hydrochloric acid, higher the concentration, the better. Make the local jeweler or the lead brazing guy your best friend. You can't buy it off the shelf unless you have the requisite license. Oxalic acid works for surface rust, but not so well for pitted rust and it takes time.

2. Take a suitable sized brush and apply on the rust area. With a little pressure keep brushing the rust area until you have the rust out and see bare shiny metal.

3. After you are satisfied, to prevent the acid eating into the metal, neutralize it by brushing good amount of baking soda over all the acid soaked area. You should see bubbles, it shows that the acid has been neutered.

4. Wash it down with a good amount of water.

5. To prevent further rusting off the bare shiny metal, until you rust proof it - paint, braze, bodyfill, make sure you coat it with a suitable amount of WD40, CRC, or what have you.

NOTE - HCl is a very powerful acid. Respect it. Wear protection. Work in a well ventilated area. Don't splash it on your skin. And prolly, you wouldn't have a respirator, hold your breath and go out inhale the clear air, when you work with it.

Drill, drill bit and wire brush bit method

1. If you still can't get the rust out with HCl, get a blunt drill bit, and some brass wire brush drill/grinder bit. Coat with WD40, let it sit for sometime to loosen up the rust and hit the rust lows with the blunt drill bit. Do note the drill bit should be able to reach inside the rust pits and you hit it with light pressure. So, you have broken the rust-etal adhesion. Now lightly brush it all off using a brass wire brush drill bit.

2. Don't use a grinder or sander on pitted rust. You would be losing valuable good metal if you do that.


Tinning, lead braze, body filler, paint

1. From bare shiny metal, I could have taken the straight path to body-filler and paint. But, it's monsoon time, and this region tops the charts in heat and humidity. Besides, all paint job is done here in the open air by the street-side. Even the authorized car service guys out source all the paint job to these street side painting ninjas. The few spray paint chambers here, apparently folded up - they were charging an arm and a leg to make a fast return on their investments.

2. So, I tried tinning it with regular 60-40 solder, electronics PCB solder. I don't have an oxy torch. If I had, I would have been able to do a very beautiful job. So, tried with my 125 watt iron. Was a laborious job and I wasn't getting an even flow.

3. Decided to take it to the local lead brazing guy. So, wrapped up the tank nicely in bubble-wrap, except for the rusted area, to be worked upon. That's important if you don't want to come back with a tank full of a new nicks, dents and scratches - not to mention grimy hand prints.

4. Now I have a tank the exterior of which is totally rust free and rust sealed.

5. Have given it to one street side painting ninja to bodyfill and paint. I hope he does a decent job. Fingers crossed.


Attaching a pic after tinned and lead-loaded.

[ElonSkum]

A further update

Just got the tank back from the painter's. He has done a pretty decent job. There's slight mismatch in the color tone. But, as the area would be hidden under the seat, I am not bothered much. Rust proofing was the main aim.

[jay_r]

I have a RE Classic 350 CC (Maroon Colour) 2015 model. In the last 6 years of ownership, I haven't used it much except for a few annual rides that I make, which also I haven't done since 2019. My RE was not in use for almost 10 months in the first wave. I am guilty of not investing in a water-resistant cover for it as well because of which always got wet during the monsoon.

I get my bike serviced by a local mechanic who was referred to me by a senior rider friend. This mechanic is also a rider and is part of the Royal Mavericks group in Delhi. I got my RE serviced in Feb 2021 and post-service the mechanic told me that the fuel tank was rusted due to water seeping into it and the fuel inside had gone bad due to non-usage for a long time. He cleaned it this time and asked me to get it cleaned in the next service as well, else we may have to get the fuel tank replaced.

During monsoon this year, the bike was again kept out in the rain. This one instance when I took it for commuting to work, the bike stopped some 2-3 kms from home. As per calculations, the reserve was due any time and hence put it on reserve and tried starting it but to no avail. I could sense liquid in the tank by shaking but yet the bike did not start.

Long story short I went for the next service and this time the mechanic told me to get the tank replaced soon as it has rusted quite bad. He had done a temporary fix by adding a petrol filter and a new tap which he said was not a genuine part to buy me some time. He gave me a quote of 8k for replacement of the fuel tank which he has said will be a genuine part as he uses only genuine parts.

My query:

1. Is there any way I can verify the authenticity of a RE spare or can I know
how much a new fuel tank could cost?

2. I trust my mechanic and find him genuine and knowledgeable, but should
I be going to an authorized service center only for the replacement?

[Gansan]

^^ Generally bike fuel tanks cost a lot, because they also form part of the bike body and contibute to aesthetics, unlike scooter or car fuel tanks which are out of sight. Expect it to cost north of Rs 10-15k if not more.

[MechPrasad]

Try electrolysis to get rid of the rust, YouTube will guide you.
I had done that once.
You may also consider getting the inner side painted later on.
But if you insist, check OlX for used or new fuel tanks.
A new one would cost 10k Inr at max.

[irs_2s]

Originally Posted by H3LIOS

I too am facing rust problems with my Yezdi Roadking tank. Every month or so it clogs up the fuel filter and chokes the flow. I tried a couple of short-term solutions but am looking for a long-term fix.

One is the RR-10 Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit marketed by Escorts and supposed to be available at any Yamaha dealership. Unfortunately the only Yamaha shop in my town have not even heard of it

Anyway, a fellow biker at the Jawaclub site was kind enough to upload a scan of the instruction leaflet that comes with the RR-10 kit . Attached here for your reference.

Second option is to get it sand-blasted and get the inside powder coated. As has already been said, the exterior paint is ruined when they put he tank inside the oven to cure. So I am holding off on this.

Third & last option is to get a professional tank sealant from the US/UK like KREEM or POR-15. But I am not sure what the import duties would be - if at all import of such substances is allowed.

A epoxy of fiberglass resin coat can be a solution, but it has to be done properly and with high quality materials. Else you would experience peeling within a few months.

Cheers
Teja

Hi all, I am facing a similar issue is my Father's beloved suzuki 2 stroker that is almost 24 years old. Has anyone used this product in past few years. Need your feedback please.

[dj_666]

@irs_2s

Tank Rescue by Varicon Solutions is a simple DIY solution. (No pun intended )

[sam_machine]

Can you please tell what sealent or coating you have used from inside the tank to avoid further rust.

Originally Posted by ElonSkum

An update!

Had been frightfully busy in my business here; The overhaul took a backseat.

But, finally managed to exterminate the surface pitted rust in the entirety. Was an extremely easy job. I hope someone reaches this post, and finds my tips handy.

Hydrochloric acid Method

1. Score some Hydrochloric acid, higher the concentration, the better. Make the local jeweler or the lead brazing guy your best friend. You can't buy it off the shelf unless you have the requisite license. Oxalic acid works for surface rust, but not so well for pitted rust and it takes time.

2. Take a suitable sized brush and apply on the rust area. With a little pressure keep brushing the rust area until you have the rust out and see bare shiny metal.

3. After you are satisfied, to prevent the acid eating into the metal, neutralize it by brushing good amount of baking soda over all the acid soaked area. You should see bubbles, it shows that the acid has been neutered.

4. Wash it down with a good amount of water.

5. To prevent further rusting off the bare shiny metal, until you rust proof it - paint, braze, bodyfill, make sure you coat it with a suitable amount of WD40, CRC, or what have you.

NOTE - HCl is a very powerful acid. Respect it. Wear protection. Work in a well ventilated area. Don't splash it on your skin. And prolly, you wouldn't have a respirator, hold your breath and go out inhale the clear air, when you work with it.

Drill, drill bit and wire brush bit method

1. If you still can't get the rust out with HCl, get a blunt drill bit, and some brass wire brush drill/grinder bit. Coat with WD40, let it sit for sometime to loosen up the rust and hit the rust lows with the blunt drill bit. Do note the drill bit should be able to reach inside the rust pits and you hit it with light pressure. So, you have broken the rust-etal adhesion. Now lightly brush it all off using a brass wire brush drill bit.

2. Don't use a grinder or sander on pitted rust. You would be losing valuable good metal if you do that.


Tinning, lead braze, body filler, paint

1. From bare shiny metal, I could have taken the straight path to body-filler and paint. But, it's monsoon time, and this region tops the charts in heat and humidity. Besides, all paint job is done here in the open air by the street-side. Even the authorized car service guys out source all the paint job to these street side painting ninjas. The few spray paint chambers here, apparently folded up - they were charging an arm and a leg to make a fast return on their investments.

2. So, I tried tinning it with regular 60-40 solder, electronics PCB solder. I don't have an oxy torch. If I had, I would have been able to do a very beautiful job. So, tried with my 125 watt iron. Was a laborious job and I wasn't getting an even flow.

3. Decided to take it to the local lead brazing guy. So, wrapped up the tank nicely in bubble-wrap, except for the rusted area, to be worked upon. That's important if you don't want to come back with a tank full of a new nicks, dents and scratches - not to mention grimy hand prints.

4. Now I have a tank the exterior of which is totally rust free and rust sealed.

5. Have given it to one street side painting ninja to bodyfill and paint. I hope he does a decent job. Fingers crossed.


Attaching a pic after tinned and lead-loaded.

Attachment 2020889

[srini1785]

Anyone have any experience with this product :

https://www.automotivesolutions.net.in/tank-seal.html

Their Video :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM0z...OTIVESOLUTIONS

Company:
https://www.automotivesolutions.net....-services.html

I have a pretty old tank for a vintage bike. I did subject it to electrolysis but the rust seems to have popped up again.

[vivekdewanta]

Finally, I concluded how to get rid of the Royal Enfield fuel tank issue sorted after 3 months of continuous struggle.
-At the very first stage always use 2-stroke oil when refilling the petrol tank. 40 ML is good enough on a full tank. Every time use this procedure when you go to the fuel station for refilling. It will help the fuel tank from rusting.
-Whenever parking your two-wheeler for a longer duration always keep the fuel tank full. It will reduce the chances of your fuel tank to rust gradually.
-If rust is already built up inside the tank then clean the rust by opening the fuel tank apart and do the thorough cleaning process as much as possible. After cleaning make ensure to follow the above two processes.
-Always use fuel filters for carburetor bikes. It will not allow the rust or any other dust particles to flow with the petrol to the carburetor for combustion.

I have personally followed the above process now it's been more than 2 years I have not faced a single issue of rusting till now. In short, one can say it's a trusted and experienced process. I have used this on my Royal Enfield 350 and Classic 350 both UCE 2015 models.