|
Search Forums |
Advanced Search |
Go to Page... |
Search this Thread | 1,054,220 views |
23rd May 2016, 00:17 | #76 |
Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,837 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread If your motorcycle easily starts with the kick starter, that indicates the carburetor and its settings are probably all right. Direct your attention to the electrical area. Even though your motorcycle starts easily with the kick starter, that does not mean all is well. When you are kick starting the motorcycle the full 12.4 volts of power from the battery is available to power the ignition coil. That will create the maximum high voltage for the spark so the engine starts even if there are problems with the spark plugs and the high voltage wiring and spark plug connector. As your volt/ohm meter demonstrated when you used the electric starter, the system voltage dropped into the 11 volt range. As I said, this is normal but the reduced voltage causes the ignition coil to produced less high voltage for the spark plug. That's when flaws in the system can become apparent (as is happening with your motorcycle). Worn spark plugs (as your motorcycle undoubtedly has), poor connections (like your spark plug connector has) and poor connections like your spark plug wires probably have all can keep the spark from occurring in the cylinder. Of course, no spark, no start. While speaking of connections, it would be good to remove the fuse(s) in the system and to clean off the electrical connectors they plug into. While this may not be needed, some corrosion can reduce the battery voltage going to your ignition coil and other things like the headlight etc.) As for which spark plug to select, the one on the left (aft looking forward) is the primary plug. That said, I think you should change both spark plugs to new ones. The spark plug gap should be 0.58-0.65 mm (.023-.026 inch). The new spark plugs are usually close to the right gap but it is worth checking before installing them. |
() Thanks |
|
23rd May 2016, 11:07 | #77 | |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Navi Mumbai
Posts: 11
Thanked: 5 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
N guess what , it worked ... Yesterday evening I brought a new Spark Plug, initially checked the Spark by plugging the new spark plug but it dint gave a bright blue spark, it gave intermittent very light yellow spark , so I was like this is not going to work. But then removed the old spark plug, placed the new one and first I did kick start and then next Electric Start and the engine came into life.. I dont have words to express my happiness and thanks to you and BJ for your right on the spot analysis. Kudos to you guys. Now the Electric Start is working after I drive the bike for some time. So last two days have brought a lot of understanding between me and my bike. Once the small black ground wire was properly connected, even the ammeter now stays between the 0 and extreme + . I also feel sad that the mechanics in here do not diagnose the problem completely and try to shift the problem to some one elses' like battery of brush boxkit etc. So to sum up my expenses, I spent close to 2000 bucks for brush boxkit, ammeter , mechanic and finally a 80 Rs spark plug did the work. But the knowledge obtained in the process was worth each and every penny. Now I plan to change the other spark plug as well and the wiring to the plugs, changing the battery is next in line. Do I need to check and repair/replace ignition coil, where is it located and how much impact will it have ? There are two more separate issues in the bike which I will ask you subsequently. Really a grand thanks for your support and guidance. Last edited by nityamishra14 : 23rd May 2016 at 11:32. Reason: Adding one more point. | |
() Thanks |
23rd May 2016, 12:17 | #78 |
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Jumping in cause I desperately need some guidance. I am suddenly plagued with an irritating problem myself. I own a 2004 Royal Enfield Thunderbird AVL 350 and have had a trouble free 11 odd years riding the bike. About a year ago, upon the insistence of my mechanic, I got my head changed as I persistently had problems for a few months. I decided to bite the bullet and change my carb as well. Everything was fine and dandy post that until about a month ago when I noticed my bike randomly missfire a few times. Seemed like it was losing electrical connectivity or fuel. Upon checking all the normal symptoms out like overflow from the carb, the spark plug, the fuel tap etc, I decided to take it to the mechanic for further investigation. In the last week or so, we've changed the entire electrical wiring, barring the ones coming out from the clutch cover to the battery and the meters, we've replaced the pick up coil, the flusher (I think that's what its called under the seat bootstrapped next to the fuse), the battery (needed replacing anyways), the CDI kit, the rectifier, etc and yet the problem doesn't seem to go away. My mechanic is also perplexed. He's a good guy with many years of experience under his belt. He even was modest enough to ask some of his friends who are also old timers who didn't seem to know whatsup. He even took apart the carb to see if there's anything stuck in any valve or in the float pin and put it back together. He confessed to me that he noticed my 2 year old carb has a slider thats worn out and that needs replacing. Is this normal? I mean, my first carb lasted me over 10 years. Thoughts? Its difficult to diagnose because the problem happens randomly. Bike starts on first kick, even on a cold engine. If i am not mistaken, the AVL CDI engines dont rely too much on the electrical side of things other than for lights and indicators and the spark from the CDI unit. The bike runs fine except sometimes when it feels like its switching off / losing power / etc for a second or two. Then runs normally till it happens again. Repeat. Any ideas or things I should check? I know its quite difficult to tell especially without looking at the bike. After my last visit to the mech which was yesterday, I noticed significant loss in power and pick up on the bike. Its definitely noticeable. Upon closing up the air intake and changing the tuning of the carb, its slightly better, but its still a significant drop in pick up. The bike still loses power intermittently too. Help! |
() Thanks |
23rd May 2016, 17:13 | #79 | |||
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bombay
Posts: 1,241
Thanked: 1,681 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
| |||
(1) Thanks |
The following BHPian Thanks navin_v8 for this useful post: | sharkbait |
23rd May 2016, 17:24 | #80 | ||
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Hi Navin Thanks for writing back. Quote:
Quote:
My clutch plates were swapped out a while ago. They aren't worn out for sure, but I'll have them checked none the less. Thanks for the feedback. On a side note, I do have my original OEM AVL carb with me. Do you think it makes sense to revert back to it to see if it makes any difference? I can't recall the jet's name, but I remember I had to get it removed by a turner since it was jammed in there on the old carb, but barring that, never really had any issues with it. Would love to hear your thoughts. | ||
() Thanks |
23rd May 2016, 17:43 | #81 | ||||
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bombay
Posts: 1,241
Thanked: 1,681 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
| ||||
(1) Thanks |
The following BHPian Thanks navin_v8 for this useful post: | sharkbait |
23rd May 2016, 18:07 | #82 | |||
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Hey Navin Well, it definitely looks like a serious concern. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Also, any one else in the suburbs that you recommend I show the bike to for an opinion? I think i am beating around the bush going back to the same mechanic. I think its time for a second opinion | |||
() Thanks |
24th May 2016, 09:51 | #83 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bombay
Posts: 1,241
Thanked: 1,681 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread
Mate I would suggest you to first get the carb sorted out as you have changed all the electricals. Anthony is an old hand and an expert nevertheless I will pm you the details of another mechanic. I got the carb of one of my old CI's serviced from him and it works like a charm. |
() Thanks |
24th May 2016, 12:49 | #84 | ||
Senior - BHPian | re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread
This I feel is due to a spark plug being weak or not sparking. Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by tharian : 24th May 2016 at 12:52. | ||
(1) Thanks |
The following BHPian Thanks tharian for this useful post: | sharkbait |
24th May 2016, 13:18 | #85 | |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Navi Mumbai
Posts: 11
Thanked: 5 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Hence what else should be done next. I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires). Or is there any other electrical component between the starter and the spark plugs, what is a ignition coil, should it be looked into, where is it located. I plan to rectify all other components before changing the battery, to test them in limited voltage source. Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition. Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE. Really appreciate the help. | |
() Thanks |
24th May 2016, 14:35 | #86 | ||
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Checked the spark plug and also swapped out the spark plug for a spare one and checked the connectivity and it looked fine. Also noticed the spark was blue, like it should be. Don't know if that makes any difference. Thanks for the clarification. Dont know if that had any significance, but that was also swapped out. Quote:
Thanks | ||
() Thanks |
|
25th May 2016, 00:10 | #87 | |
Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,837 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
This is not specific enough. It could mean the starter motor doesn't run at all. The starter motor runs but the engine does not crank. The starter motor runs and the engine cranks but the engine doesn't start. Most likely it is failing to fire while the motor is cranking it. If this is the case I would suspect the spark plug cap (connector) as the cause. " I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires)." I am not in India and I haven't seen how the dual spark system is set up. There could be two ignition coils, one for each spark plug or, there could be one ignition coil with a high tension wire for each spark plug. These high tension wires could screw into the ignition coil allowing you to just replace the wires or, they could be permanently bonded into the coil(s). If they are a permanent part of the coil, you will need to replace the coil to replace the wires. (Perhaps someone familiar with the RE Dual Spark can enlighten both of us?) The ignition coil is a transformer that changes the 12 volts from the battery or alternator to over 25,000 volts so it can create the spark at the spark plug. It may be round or rectangular. One (or more) of the high tension wires connected to the spark plug(s) will go directly to it. The ignition coil is usually located under the fuel tank. "Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition." There are several other things that control the ignition on the UCE engine. There is a sensor that determines the position of the crankshaft. A sensor that determines the position of the throttle The computer that determines the correct time for the spark to occur and then causes the ignition coil to "fire". The wiring harness, ignition switch, kill switch, fuses.... "Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE. " There are a number of electrical wiring diagrams available on the internet. Just be sure the one you use is for a UCE. Wiring for the older Iron Barrel and AVL is different. These wiring diagrams are not always correct and they often don't show some of the electrical components that may be on your motorcycle at all. Use them as a general guideline but not as gospel. Last edited by ArizonaJim : 25th May 2016 at 00:13. | |
() Thanks |
29th May 2016, 20:24 | #88 |
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Just following up with all the help I received. Got some time off on the weekend so attacked the bike again. Turns out, almost all issues that persisted on my bike are gone, except for the jerky ride. Currently I own two carbs. One original UCAL Mikuni and one BS26 bought from town somewhere. Turns out, both my carbs have similar issues. Their slider seems to be worn out from the inside. I can see the entire shaft metal turning almost white. The rest of the carb seems perfectly fine. Just the slider's on both carbs have very similar issues with the slider. My mechanic and I both decided that it was time to get the carbs fixed. I was leaning towards getting the original UCAL Mikuni fixed more than the BS26 thats lasted me less than 3 years to date. I called up all the regular vendors for the slider replacement parts. They all had it and it costs some 925 bucks. Need some advice guys. Do you recommend going ahead with the replacement slider? Should I do it on the UCAL or the replacement BS26? Also, what causes the slider to be worn out like this? Seems odd. I checked the flange cover and it didn't have any signs of wear and tear, but I'll probably replace that as well. Could it be an underlying issue with the engine that we are having to mix air/petrol the way we are to ensure that the pick up doesn't drop? Or is it just air being sucked in that causes this? Any suggestions? |
() Thanks |
30th May 2016, 17:20 | #89 | ||
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bombay
Posts: 1,241
Thanked: 1,681 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by navin_v8 : 30th May 2016 at 17:37. | ||
(1) Thanks |
The following BHPian Thanks navin_v8 for this useful post: | sharkbait |
30th May 2016, 17:40 | #90 | ||
BHPian Join Date: May 2016 Location: Mumbai
Posts: 49
Thanked: 36 Times
| re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread Quote:
Quote:
Thus far, to date, I've changed the clutch plates, electrical wiring, pick up coil, spark plug, et all. I am perplexed this time. Never have I been hit with a problem for so long. But it all seems to be pointing towards the carb itself. Meh! | ||
() Thanks |