[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by adrian

Hi everyone, I have two doubts , 1. How do you adjust a TPS cable ? 2. What is the routing procedure of the clutch cable? Should you start from the lever end or from the clutch end? Really confused at the cable adjuster end in the engine cover.How to get the cable assembly through the barrel nut (cable adjuster) holder on the clutch cover?
Regards Adrian

Hopefully you have not messed with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) settings as they are pre set at the factory and should not be changed. (This is adjusted (or NOT) on the top of the throttle body.)

If you are asking about adjusting the throttle cables, there are two locations to do this. Under the throttle grip on the right handle bar are adjustment sleeves for the open and close cables. These are intended to be used for making small adjustments. If you adjust one of them to reduce the "slop" you may have to tighten the other one to maintain the correct "looseness" the system needs.

On the throttle body/fuel injector body, there is a sheet metal bracket where the two cables attach to the rear of the round throttle cable wheel. The hex nuts at this location positions the ends of the throttle cables.
These nuts can be used to adjust or to remove the throttle cables.
By loosening these nuts you can slide the cables out of the sheet metal bracket thru the small slots.

The throttle cables should not be fighting with each other when they are correctly adjusted. There should be 2-3mm of looseness here.

The clutch cable can be adjusted or removed by loosening/tightening the two hex nuts on the engine case right in front of the clutch arm.

To remove the clutch cable, loosen these two nuts to allow the cable to move towards the clutch arm to achieve maximum looseness.

In theory, you should be able to get the cable loose enough to allow you to slip the enlarged end towards the rear of the motorcycle allowing the cable to slip thru the slot in the arms swinging clip. Once the cable is free, the two nuts will slide easily over the end of the cable.

On my G5, there is not enough adjustment to allow this to happen so my method would be to loosen the two nuts as much as possible to make the connection between the cable and arm as loose as possible.

Then, I would adjust a adjustable wrench so that the jaws would straddle the clutch arm but fit it snugly.

Using the wrench, slightly turning the clutch arm in a counter clockwise direction (forward) will provide enough looseness to allow the enlarged end of the clutch cable to disengage from the arms swinging clip. This will allow the cable to be slipped thru the slot in the clutch arms clip.

Once the clutch arm end of the cable is free, removing the cable from the clutch lever on the left handle bar should be easy.

When reinstalling the cable (or installing a new cable) be sure to adjust the two nuts at the clutch arm end to allow for 2-3mm of looseness when the clutch lever is released.

If it works, here is a link to a YouTube video which shows some of this. It is primarily directed to lubricating the throttle cable.

Lube Throttle Cables of Motorcycle Royal Enfield EFI G5 - YouTube

[adrian]

@Arizona Jim : Thank you sir, but my bike being the carbed version, I fear that the whole mechanism might be different. I have only one cable going to the throttle body and the other cable(the smaller one) going into a small black box just below the seat and above the battery compartment. I really appreciate your heart to explain the details which would certainly be useful for the guys with the EFI.
As for the clutch cable part, it sure was enlightening and one more doubt remains : The protective rubber bellows in the cable at the clutch arm end, should you remove it first from the cable before routing it through the slot in the engine cover (While routing a new cable) ?
Regards Adrian

[ArizonaJim]

Sorry about that. When I saw your reference to a TPS my mind said "Throttle Position Sensor" which is what tells the computer in an EFI bike how far the throttle plate has been opened. :(

That probably makes the rest of my last post pretty useless to you but it might help someone else.

I'm doing some guessing here but your clutch cable adjustment is probably right up by the clutch lever. Loosening the lock nut and screwing the two halves into one another should shorten its length which results in the cable becoming looser?
The rubber bellows is slid in place before attaching the lower end to the clutch release lever.

Going back to my Ducati Monza days (which may be quite different) the lower end of the carburetor cable is attached inside the carburetor. You must unscrew the throttle slide retaining cap from the carburetor and then pull the slide up out of the carburetor.
You will be able to see how the lower enlarged end slips into position.
The upper end of the throttle cable usually has an adjustment sleeve below the grip? There is also another adjustment sleeve on top of the carburetor slide retaining cap.

To remove the throttle cable from the grip you must remove the screws that hold the lower half to the upper half. Once done you will see how the cable hooks into the guide on the grip.

I'm sure a number of readers know more about your motorcycle than I do so hopefully someone will add better instructions for you.

[adrian]

Updates : I was riding my machine one after noon and in the midst of the journey the machine suddenly died out just like going into reserve(I had 3/4th tank full). Kick started the bike and rode for another 200 meters and the phenomenon repeated. Started the bike again and for the rest of the journey was uneventful. How ever, taking no chances I took the bike to the service and they said that the culprit was a phenomenon called air lock. They said it is common in bikes with tight tank cap and advised that if ever the air lock occurs, you should open the tank cap before starting up again.

Just a couple of things I would like to know. During the runs in the rain, water enters the air filter chamber in my bike. Is there any chance of water entering the carburator through the air filter ? Any ideas for making the air filter box water proof?

@Arizona Jim : I had meant the Throttle possition sensor itself sir, but the whole thing seems to be arranged differently than in EFI bikes. Hope some one answers my query.


Regards Adrian

[Leepower]

Originally Posted by adrian

Updates : I was riding my machine one after noon and in the midst of the journey the machine suddenly died out just like going into reserve(I had 3/4th tank full). Kick started the bike and rode for another 200 meters and the phenomenon repeated. Started the bike again and for the rest of the journey was uneventful. How ever, taking no chances I took the bike to the service and they said that the culprit was a phenomenon called air lock. They said it is common in bikes with tight tank cap and advised that if ever the air lock occurs, you should open the tank cap before starting up again.

Just a couple of things I would like to know. During the runs in the rain, water enters the air filter chamber in my bike. Is there any chance of water entering the carburator through the air filter ? Any ideas for making the air filter box water proof?

@Arizona Jim : I had meant the Throttle possition sensor itself sir, but the whole thing seems to be arranged differently than in EFI bikes. Hope some one answers my query.


Regards Adrian

Man, sad to know that even UCE are affected by airlock problem. My 78 Bull was prone to it. Check the tank, fuel line for any leaks, and see if the rubber inside the fuel cap is damaged. And don't top up the tank.
When it strikes next time drain out some fuel from the fuel line to see if it has bubbles. My mech -- a famous BULL guru in Pune -- told me to drive with fuel lock in reserve mode. It has never affected me after that again.

[adrian]

@leepower : They are only different in their names, all Bulls have the same temperament !!

Lots of problems have reared their ugly heads after the 3rd service. When the ignition key is turned on, the neutral light comes up and when kicked, the engine won't fire. The interesting thing to note is that when cranking the engine, the amp meter won't move. You have to work an indicator or any electrical equipment first and then when cranked, the bike would start.(If researched upon the phenomenon, it would work as an excellent anti theft jimmick ! A stranger to the bike would never ever start the bike even if he is provided the ignition key unless he first flick on and off, an indicator or pilot lamp !) What would be the cause, a loose / dirty ignition key contact / dying battery? /water in the ignition key?/ loose wiring ?)
Advice please ..

[a_myth]

Hi everyone,
I have been using a CL350 since the past two months. With around 3500 on the Odo, my bull is till date problem free apart from some minor issues which i would like to discuss.
1. I had a problem with the wiring. Every time i moved the handle bar to the extreme ends, the neutral light would go out. If the bike is running then it would die out. The problem was traced to a loose wiring below the tank which was rectified in the second service.

2. My headlight point upwards,and the RE guys dont seems to have a good solution. Someone has advised me to replace the headlight bulb. Looking out for a new 35/35W halogen.

3. Every time i switch on the headlights for the first time in the day, the engine just dies down. This does not happen everytime. What could be the problem??

[datvichrox2]

Originally Posted by a_myth

2. My headlight point upwards,and the RE guys dont seems to have a good solution. Someone has advised me to replace the headlight bulb. Looking out for a new 35/35W halogen.

Aren't your headlamps of 60/55 rating?

[adrian]

Originally Posted by a_myth

Hi everyone,
1. I had a problem with the wiring. Every time i moved the handle bar to the extreme ends, the neutral light would go out. If the bike is running then it would die out. The problem was traced to a loose wiring below the tank which was rectified in the second service.

Hello friend, could you please identify and pinpoint the wire by color or by type of connector ? Looks like my machine is having the same problem. As for your serial number 3, it could be an indication of a weak battery.

Could any one recommend a contact cleaner for use in the ignition switch?
Regards Adrian

[a_myth]

Originally Posted by adrian

Hello friend, could you please identify and pinpoint the wire by color or by type of connector ? Looks like my machine is having the same problem. As for your serial number 3, it could be an indication of a weak battery.

Could any one recommend a contact cleaner for use in the ignition switch?
Regards Adrian

Hi Adrian,

Looks like i spoke too soon, coz the loose contact problem came up again this morning when i was negotiating some potholes. will be paying a visit to the RE servicing tomorrow morning. Will update you as soon as i get some details.

Regarding the problem with the battery, the ammeter is in the neutral position when riding during the day and at night its @60% in the positive. Is that an indication is battery being weak??

[a_myth]

Originally Posted by datvichrox2

Aren't your headlamps of 60/55 rating?

Well yes, you are right. The original headlight is of the 60/55 rating.

I made a couple of visits to the RE Service to rectify the headlight focus issue. On the second visit the mechanic advised me to go for a 35/35 w rating halogen, which would hopefully rectify this issue. From his tone, it looked as if he was experimenting. The whole problem is that the headlight doesnt have any kind of adjustment for focusing the beam.

[adrian]

@a_myth : The culprit in your case could be the ignition switch too. The worst things fitted in an REB is the ignition switch and the speedometer. Both have substandard quality. The ignition switch will go kaput if you hang a key chain on your ignition key.

If the wiring is loose, there is a remote chance of the battery not getting charged. It is ok for the ammeter to move to the right with head lights on. Try checking the battery voltage using a multimeter first thing in the morning. If the battery is ok, then it would be that sufficient current is not flowing to the ignition circuit. That will be the reason that the engine dies when the head light is turned on as the availability of current diminishes with the headlight on.

Regarding my bike, I suspect that what the service people diagnosed as air lock might be loose wiring.

Regards Adrian

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by adrian

.... I had meant the Throttle possition sensor itself, but the whole thing seems to be arranged differently than in EFI bikes. Hope some one answers my query. ...

Does the cable have an adjustment provision at TPS end? pl post a pic. If yes, a tachometer (engine pulse) may be needed to sync TP sensor/switch feedback with rpm. If No, adjusting main cable's slack at throttle grip won't disturb tps.

Originally Posted by Leepower

... a famous BULL guru in Pune -- told me to drive with fuel lock in reserve mode. It has never affected me after that again.

Isn't this more like a flow issue in the main line of fuel tap rather than airlock? Hope you verified flow, a squashed rubber insert inside tap disturbs flow. Also dismantling & cleaning up the tank cap assembly solves most airlock issues.

Originally Posted by a_myth

... On the second visit the mechanic advised me to go for a 35/35 w rating halogen, which would hopefully rectify this issue. ...

But how?? This tribe of mech's are everywhere. See the last couple of pages you might get some tips.
I've seen dealer mech turned supervisor advises 25w bulb instead of stock 35w to improve lighting for Oe Dc h/l. In my experience, bulbs have better quality consistency than RE- Minda h/l assy's.

[a_myth]

@ Adrian,
I visited the RE Service in the morning and after a quick inspection of my bike and a bit of protest from my side ( I had kept my bike for 2 days at the service center during my last servicing) the RE guys decided to change the complete wiring of my bull, which was not available. So i have been told to come back on Monday as it has been ordered. So i cant exactly pinpoint the problematic wire. More details only on monday i guess.

[ArizonaJim]

a myth:

Speaking of wiring harnesses, I don't know if this applies to the RE Classic 350 but I suspect that it does.

On my new UCE Royal Enfield G5 I found several areas where the wiring was protected by only a wrap of plastic electrical tape.

In several locations these wires were passing very close to the sharp metal edges of the side covers and other metal brackets etc.

To add additional protection for these wires I used some 6mm and 8mm rubber or plastic tubing.

After cutting a appropriate length of tubing I slit it lengthwise and slid the wires inside of it. You can see several examples of this in the photo below.