[David Murx]

Need Gurus help here. Couple of my friends are looking for this silencer. Can anyone guide where can we get these ?

"Chhoti Dholki" Silencer on Bullet 350 - YouTube

[blackfire_9]

@adrian: If you are now able to start your bike's engine much easily now, it means that your fuel-air mixture is indeed richer now with a little more petrol going in per charge.

And this is how an engine would behave, a lean mixture is often a culprit for starting problems in any vehicle.

Ride safe.

@ALL: Which oil is most suited to these modern Twinspark engines of various Enfield models? And what is the best suited grade, 15W50 or 20W50? Also, is there any specification in the manual that mentions the use of synthetic oil as more beneficial?

[ArizonaJim]

Generally speaking, the synthetic oils are much more temperature stable than a regular motor oil. Because of this, their viscosity changes less making them better for use in areas where temperature fluctuations are great.
They also tend to oxidize less and lubricate somewhat better than regular oils.
When they were first introduced into the commercial market there was a widespread belief that synthetic oils would slip by or damage seals that were made for regular oils but the manufactures of the synthetic oils has gone to great lengths to make sure these things will not happen in older engines.

I cannot speak for the TS engines but the 500cc UCE powered motorcycles are (according to my Owners Manual) supposed to use "15 W 50 API SL grade JASO MA, ESTER- Semi-synthetic oil.

In my opinion, anything a semi-synthetic oil can do in a UCE, a true synthetic oil can do better PROVIDED it is made for motorcycles.

The automotive synthetic oils often have friction reducing ingredients in them to to increase fuel economy and these can cause problems in a UCE motorcycle.

The UCE engine uses the crankcase oil to lubricate the primary chain and the wet clutch and these special friction reducing ingredients can cause the wet clutch to slip.
The synthetic oils made for motorcycles do not have these friction reducers specifically because of their effects on wet clutches.
The "JASO MA" mentioned in the Owners Manuals recommended oil assures that the oil will not cause a problem with the wet clutch.
I might mention that not all motorcycle oils which are made for wet clutches have a JASO rating but that appears to be because the manufacturer did not want to pay for the rights to put that on his label.
A motorcycle rated oil should work just fine.

Motorcycle oils also have special high pressure lubricants like ZDDP to withstand the high pressures between the gear teeth. Because the engine oil on a UCE engine also serves to lubricate the transmissions gears this is an important thing to have.

As for the lower number given for a multi-grade oil, it only becomes a factor when the outside temperature is lower than 40 degrees F (4.4*C.) If the outside temperature is higher than that, a 20-50 weight oil will work fine.
This makes a 20-50 weight full synthetic oil usable as some of the manufactures do not offer a 15-50 weight synthetic oil.

[hiran77]

Hello Everyone,

I have booked a Classic 350 too. Can the owners here give me an idea on the top speed?

Also, I have read people claiming a FE of 45+. I would be happy with anything above 40.

[stnair]

Hey Guys/Gurus...

I got a serious problem... Changed the Engine oil myself today evening (C350 UCE). This is what I did:

• General service plus normal Oil change and Filter change was done at RE service station today morning.
• My cousin unexpectedly brought 3 litres of Motul 300V 15W50 Full Synthetic oil in the evening- This oil is not available in my place - so I thought- voila- I will change the oil immediately to full synthetic. Since filter etc was changed and cleaned at Service in morning and only 5km run- I thought the easy route- just change the oil.
• With a 19mm ring spanner, removed the main oil drain plug and emptied all the oil in to a tray.
• Did some shaking, tilting, kicking etc to force out the last drop of oil in the engine- the oil check window showed completely empty.
• Replaced the drain plug, Opened two 1L can of Motul and poured it in.
• Curiously the oil check window showed completely full at this time, but since I knew C350 holds 2.75L oil, I poured half Litre more from the 3rd can.
• Checked everything, started the engine, its running fine. It is night time so I didnt take him out.
• Now I poured the old oil in the tray in to the empty Motul can for storing safely and found that its only 1.5L

Where did I go wrong ? Doesnt the C350 UCE engine hold 2.75L Engine oil? Where is the rest of the oil? Now what should I do ? Can I ride him in the morning?

Please help...

regards
San

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by stnair

Hey Guys/Gurus...

I got a serious problem... Changed the Engine oil myself today evening (C350 UCE). This is what I did:

Hi Stnair

I am quoting a post below by ArizonaJim which might resolve your query. This post is about a 500CC UCE Royal Enfield unlike yours which is a C3, yet the oil capacity must not be higher in case of C3. Please avoid overfilling oil in your bike as it is not recommended. You can browse through the C3 thread to find more.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

There is no separate oil sump on the UCE powered models. Only the main sump in the crankcase. There is no dip stick however there is a sight guage on the right sidecover with a upper and lower limit line on the window.

When rested on the side stand, some of the oil will drain from the main sump into the left engine sidecover thru an internal hole but when the bike is straightened up on the center stand, or for riding, the excess oil in the left sidecover drains back into the main oil sump. This seems to take less than a minute on my RE.

I do agree that the owners manual urges owners to overfill their engine with oil when they do an oil change. Of course, my statement is based on the sight gauge being where it is supposed to be.

My Owners Manual says the engine holds "2.75 Litre". (2.906 quarts US).

Giving RE the benefit of doubt, the enginemight hold that much if it was a totally dry, newly built engine, however in every oil and filter change that I've done on my bike, I've found that 1.7 to 1.8 Liters (1.8 to 1.9 quarts US) of oil will bring the level in the sight guage up to the middle of the window.

This is after I have leaned the motorcycle to the left to drain the oil out of the right engine sidecover and then to the right to drain the oil out of the left engine sidecover. The 1.7 to 1.8 Liter depends on how much oil I manage to get out of the side covers.

There is absolutely no way I could put 2.75 liters of oil into the engine without grossly overfilling it. I strongly suspect that the 2.75 should have been 1.75 in the Owners Manual.

[Turbanator]

I think old oil is in Filter , it will be dangerous to use Synthetic with regular

Is it harmful to mix regular motor oil with synthetic

So it will be wise to flush this completely , take out filter , wash & then fill with synthetic or regular , unless someone has some better advise for you

[stnair]

@Turbanator: 1L oil in the filter? I doubt it.

I checked some Oil company websites (Mobil, Valvoline etc) and they all say mixing Synthetic with regular oil is not harmful. (Though it may nullify the advantages of Synthetic).

Now the remaining question is - Is it harmful to overfill the Engine oil? If my mathematics is correct, there is excess 1L oil in my C350 now. Should I take it out ?

[nitin.rai]

Originally Posted by stnair

@Turbanator: 1L oil in the filter? I doubt it.

I checked some Oil company websites (Mobil, Valvoline etc) and they all say mixing Synthetic with regular oil is not harmful. (Though it may nullify the advantages of Synthetic).

Now the remaining question is - Is it harmful to overfill the Engine oil? If my mathematics is correct, there is excess 1L oil in my C350 now. Should I take it out ?

When ridden long distance the excess oil will be thrown out from the case on to the rear wheel. Better to drain it.
Put the bike on main stand; start and run for 2 mins; switch off; wait for a minute. Check the oil level. It should not go above max.

No harm caused, just that the bike gets dirty and possibility of slip if the oil gets on to your rear wheel.

[stnair]

@iron.head:
That post says the oil capacity is 1.7 to 1.8L only while changing. I also found a Youtube video which also confirms this. In the video, Oil check window becomes nearly full when adding 1.7 L.

But then today I was charged for 2.5L Engine oil by RE Service station. I wonder where they put that oil?


@EssYouWee: If you are listening, how much Synthetic oil did you put while you changed at 6k ? If I am right, you changed it yourself.

regards
San

[ArizonaJim]

stnair:

I recommend that you remove the excess oil using a clean drain pan to catch the oil.

If your careful you should be able to remove about 1 liter of oil by holding the unscrewed drain plug against the outlet to control the flow.

When the oil level in the sight window is almost to the bottom of the glass, reinstall the drain plug. Then start the engine and let it idle for 45 seconds to a minute.

When you do this, you will probably see the oil level in the sight window raise.
What you are seeing is the excess oil that was in the left side primary cover being returned to the main sump. This is normal. (By the way, if the bike has been resting on the side stand and returned to a upright position on the center stand, the oil level in the sight window will look low for the same reason. The missing oil is in the side cover.)

There is absolutely no harm done in mixing synthetic oil with regular oil.
When a person buys a major brand of "semi-synthetic" oil, that is exactly what they have purchased, a mix of synthetic oil and regular oil, usually with a whole lot less synthetic oil than you now have in your engine.

You might want to save the oil you drained out of your engine for topping up, if it is ever needed.

As for the dealer charging you for 2.5 L of engine oil, I sometimes think that some of them were trained by lawyers like the firm of Dewey, Cheetum and Howe.

[Endofdayz]

@stnair,

This is way too low 1 lts and thats all. i doubt if the oil was drained properly. Though i dont own CL350, i had thunderbird year back. Now the CL350 and thunderbird share the same engine correct ? If yes then i also changed to 300v fully synthetic from Motul. I had bought 3 cans( 1 lt can). Took it to A.S.S and asked them to change the oil. Once they changed it they returned 600 to 700 ML of oil. thats makes it like 2.3 lts of oil went inside. so i feel some how the oil change procedure you adapted is not correct. Want to take it to *** and check.?

[iron.head]

@stnair@Endofdayz: I found a post by Randhawa about C5. This thing is getting a little confusing now!

Originally Posted by Randhawa

14. Change to fully synthetic only if you intent to do some hard riding and can change at every 3k. I suggest to keep the stock oil and get oil changed every 3k. You should see the colour of engine oil at 3k. It should not be kept till 6k.

But if you want to then go for Motul 300V 15w50 grade. It comes in 1L packing and you need 3L. Engine needs only 2.3L. Its around Rs850 per litre.

[Endofdayz]

@iron.head,

there is absolutely no confusion here. Motul 300v comes in 1 lt can. Hence you buy 3 lts can the first time. the bike will drink 2.3 to 2.4. remaining can be used for next oil change. simple. Where is the disconnect. My words are same as Randhawa's words. do you think otherwise.


Regarding STnairs procedure. thats the reason i raised a concern. bike drinking only 1 lt. may be he didnot drain the old oil properly.

[stnair]

@Endofdayz
Want to take it to *** and check.? - No way !

@iron.head
Randhawa is right. Engine takes only about 2.3L for the right amount in Oil check window.

I drained out 600ml today morning. So its 2.5 + 2.5 - 1.6 - 0.6 = 2.6L in Engine now and Oil check window is completely full.

By the way- riding with Motul 300V is heavens- so smooth gliding feel....

regards
san