[stnair]

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

@iron.head,

Regarding STnairs procedure. thats the reason i raised a concern. bike drinking only 1 lt. may be he didnot drain the old oil properly.

Where did I go wrong ? I opened and drained from the Main plug only - perhaps thats the reason. I should've opened both Main drain plug and also the secondary one with the net to completely drain it. Also the Oil filling cap should be removed- otherwise vaccuum inside engine chamber will keep some oil from flowing out.

regards
san

[Endofdayz]

Originally Posted by stnair

Where did I go wrong ? I opened and drained from the Main plug only - perhaps thats the reason. I should've opened both Main drain plug and also the secondary one with the net to completely drain it. Also the Oil filling cap should be removed- otherwise vaccuum inside engine chamber will keep some oil from flowing out.

regards
san

Yes Stnair. i suspect you didnot open the secondary plug, as there was no mention in your change procedure. if thats the case then old oil is still left out. hence it drank only 1 lts. but another question here is where was another 1.3 lts of oil. where is it.

Is there any possibility these showroom guys had filled only 1 lts of oil initially. there is a fair possibility. what do you think.

[traveloholic]

Need advice about a couple of things, basically need your inputs in taking a call on this.

ISSUE 1:
Other day, while returning back home from office, I heard a couple of new sounds coming from the rear wheel. When I rode it alone the sound was barely audible but in pillion, it was loud and clear. Next day morning took it to a Royal Enfield Mechanic to get it checked. I wanted to avoid riding till the showroom in that condition as I was skeptical, the small sound might lead to a bigger problem by the time I reach there. The Royal Enfield Mechanic checked it and said that due to my weight, the rear suspension is moving a couple of inches behind and this is increasing the traction in the chain. I really did not understand what he wanted to say as I guess the company might have tested it during the R&D stage. What do you guys suggest, how do I explain this issue at the RE A.S.S.?

ISSUE 2:
I find the seat to be pretty uneasy, as I end up with a Sore-Butt after riding it for 15-20 kms. What could be done in order to improve the seating comfort and avoid the Sore-Butts?

ISSUE 3:
I plan to replace the stock silencer with GoldStar by Sans Inc. I would love to have a Bassy Thump, clean sound and not like those squeaky treble enhanced silencers, but a good loud thump, that goes easy on the ears and gives that thumping feel to the rider.

[Endofdayz]

Issue 1: i never faced this problem with my DS. im 96 kilos. May be you want to take it to different *** n assess what they have to say.

issue 2: never faced this problem either. many users of CL350 and 500 have complained about sore-butt. i travel everyday 52 kms to and fro.

issue 3: whats the issue. If you like loud thump then go for it. i'm planning to change silencer once done with 5k kms. currently it is in runin. though people say there is no after effect of upswept still im resisting myself till 5 k kms or max till 3.5k kms. so depending on how much the bike has run, you take a call.

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

Yes Stnair. i suspect you didnot open the secondary plug, as there was no mention in your change procedure. if thats the case then old oil is still left out. hence it drank only 1 lts. but another question here is where was another 1.3 lts of oil. where is it.

Is there any possibility these showroom guys had filled only 1 lts of oil initially. there is a fair possibility. what do you think.

No. The oil check window will show if there is less oil. So no possibility of showroom filling 1L.

I think all oil is accounted for. If I started with say 2.75L in the engine (since oil check window was completely full), I added 2.5L yesterday and got back 1.6L old oil yesterday night and 0.6L today morning. Balance about 3L must be in engine. (Oil window is still completely filled).

And dont scare me again . Perhaps I will drain and refill again today evening (provided my wife dont hit me in the head for using her kitchen vessels, funnel etc for draining and filling....)

regards
san

[Endofdayz]

Originally Posted by stnair

No. The oil check window will show if there is less oil. So no possibility of showroom filling 1L.

I think all oil is accounted for. If I started with say 2.75L in the engine (since oil check window was completely full), I added 2.5L yesterday and got back 1.6L old oil yesterday night and 0.6L today morning. Balance about 3L must be in engine. (Oil window is still completely filled).

And dont scare me again . Perhaps I will drain and refill again today evening (provided my wife dont hit me in the head for using her kitchen vessels, funnel etc for draining and filling....)

regards
san

hehehe.. STnair,

another question i had. did you refer the manual for replacing procedure of engine oil. even i'm not expert and try to understand where exactly the disconnect is. hope you dont mind with so many questions. regarding kitchen utensils, after using it once these will never be reused in kitchen so chill. you have dedicated tools now atleast for oil change.

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

hehehe.. STnair,

another question i had. did you refer the manual for replacing procedure of engine oil. even i'm not expert and try to understand where exactly the disconnect is. hope you dont mind with so many questions. regarding kitchen utensils, after using it once these will never be reused in kitchen so chill. you have dedicated tools now atleast for oil change.

Yes. I have referred the User Manual as well as Team BHP posts and also some You-Tube videos on the subject before doing this fiasco

Problem is - everywhere they tell you to remove the secondary plug and also the main Oil filter - to clean the strainer and filter and put it back. So I got the impression that purpose of removing secondary plug is to clean the strainer only. Since I didnt want to clean the strainer, I didnt remove it.

regards
san

[traveloholic]

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

Issue 1: i never faced this problem with my DS. im 96 kilos. May be you want to take it to different *** n assess what they have to say.

I too weight much the same Endofdays, I guess I should take a second opinion from another mechanic or get it checked at the RE Service Center sometime soon. I doubt his statement as I feel that RE guys might have taken these type of things into consideration before designing this. I guess, this could be one of problems with Classic in particular.

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

issue 2: never faced this problem either. many users of CL350 and 500 have complained about sore-butt. i travel everyday 52 kms to and fro.

I travel about 70+ Kms a day. I own a Classic 350. Should I get my springs ajusted?

Originally Posted by Endofdayz

issue 3: whats the issue. If you like loud thump then go for it. i'm planning to change silencer once done with 5k kms. currently it is in runin. though people say there is no after effect of upswept still im resisting myself till 5 k kms or max till 3.5k kms. so depending on how much the bike has run, you take a call.

Not an issue, but was planning to replace my stock silencer with Goldstar Silencer. Would love to hear the experience if someone has installed a Goldstar silencer.

[diwa]

Originally Posted by traveloholic

Need advice about a couple of things, basically need your inputs in taking a call on this.

ISSUE 1:
Other day, while returning back home from office, I heard a couple of new sounds coming from the rear wheel. When I rode it alone the sound was barely audible but in pillion, it was loud and clear. Next day morning took it to a Royal Enfield Mechanic to get it checked. I wanted to avoid riding till the showroom in that condition as I was skeptical, the small sound might lead to a bigger problem by the time I reach there. The Royal Enfield Mechanic checked it and said that due to my weight, the rear suspension is moving a couple of inches behind and this is increasing the traction in the chain. I really did not understand what he wanted to say as I guess the company might have tested it during the R&D stage. What do you guys suggest, how do I explain this issue at the RE A.S.S.?

The rear mud guard is scrapping your tyre when you ride with a pillion. Check your right side tyre wall for marks. I faced the same issue due to mud guard alignment, RE rectified after 3 visits.

[traveloholic]

Originally Posted by diwa

The rear mud guard is scrapping your tyre when you ride with a pillion. Check your right side tyre wall for marks. I faced the same issue due to mud guard alignment, RE rectified after 3 visits.

Looks exactly the same as I saw on the rear tyre. Thanks Diwa for the input. I guess, this is the main culprit. RE Service Center, here I come.

[stnair]

Hi Friends.... Happy New Year!

I wish to go for NGK Iridium and K&N for my Bullu (RE Classic 350). Here is what I learnt from net and personal observation:

• Stock spark plugs in C350 are Mico W5DC (M14) and Bosch UR5DC (M10). Right side spark plug is thinner in dia than left one. (One big, one small)
• NGK website quotes CPR7EAIX-9 as the Iridium plug for UCE350 model. But they listed only one plug- Is it for the left or right one ?
• K&N website lists model RO-5010 suitable for C5 model. Since physical dimension of C5 and C350 are same, I feel this will suit my C350 also.

So my doubts are -
Whats is the Iridium spark plug model number for C350? If I buy NGK CPR7EAIX-9, will it suit both left and right plugs?

Any harm in using K&N RO-5010 in C350? This one is tapered cylindrical, so no need to adapt the coverplate (see Randhawa post on filter change)

Anyone with experience in changing Iridium and K&N in C350 ?

regards
San

[adrian]

@San : Happy to see you back in the forum

@ every one : Couple of posts/ pages back I had asked about adjusting the TPS in 350 UCE. It is quiet a simple procedure.
1.Adjust the throttle free play to the prescribed limit as in the manual.
2. Twist the throttle to full position and check for free movement of the TPS pushrod.
There is a yellow line on the extreme end of the pushrod and it should be outside the TPS unit when the throttle is in the full position.

One day I rode past a standard uce (I was doing 60kph) and noticed that I was on a much higher rpm than him. He seemed to glide in low rpm in that speed. I checked the tps switch and found excessive free play in it. Checked with other machines of my friends and found that the tps push road had no play when the throttle was in full position. Called Marikkar services, Pattom and thanks to Mr.Biju for he had explained the whole procedure over the phone. Did the cable slack adjustment and now the pickup is great and I also expect to get a good FE.
So 350 guys check your TPS. I had 4 services completed and the RE service had not adjusted it.

Regards Adrian

[vinjosep]

Originally Posted by adrian

@San : Happy to see you back in the forum

@ every one : Couple of posts/ pages back I had asked about adjusting the TPS in 350 UCE. It is quiet a simple procedure.
1.Adjust the throttle free play to the prescribed limit as in the manual.
2. Twist the throttle to full position and check for free movement of the TPS pushrod.
There is a yellow line on the extreme end of the pushrod and it should be outside the TPS unit when the throttle is in the full position.

Regards Adrian

Thanks Adrian. Hope am not asking too much, but a few pics would be helpful for the uninitiated like me

[stnair]

@adrian

Thanks. But where is this TPS ? Is it the small black matchbox size thing just above the Battery Box ? Mine doesnt show yellow at the max position. How do you adjust it - by turning the two small 8mm nut in front of it ?

Reply soon. Cant wait to fiddle with it

regards
san

[adrian]

@ San : You got it right. Previously I thought : "Why on earth did I buy this bike which is struggling like hell to get upto 60 kph ?" But now it feels like riding a cruise missile !!
@ Vinjosep : Sorry for the quality of the pictures. Here they are anyway

By the way the guy who helped me out from RE service is Mr.Deepu. On my previous post I wrongly keyed in as Mr.Biju.

I gather from Mr.Deepu's advice that the TPS rod should start moving once we start turning the throttle. i.e, there should be no free movement of the rod once the throttle is twisted to the maximum. Being afraid in the first place, I had adjusted it in such a way that the TPS rod starts to move after I turn the throttle a wee bit and at fully opened position I see the yellow mark.

Now that we are playing with the ignition timing of the bike, please check if the bike is running hotter than it used to be and if it is consuming more fuel than usual. These are sure signs of ignition timing set in advance.

Advice of experts in this forum is also expected regarding the subject.
Regards Adrian