RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership

stnair · 18th March 2012, 20:15

@adrian

Jealous perverts are everywhere...sorry to hear about it. I think full oil can be drained only if both plugs are removed. (Read my fiasco with synthetic oil change a few pages back). But a word of caution- The secondary or big hexa drain nut, the thread can be easily damaged because of Aluminium crank case even if slightly overtightened - one reason why your RE service didnt remove it.

regards
san

adrian · 24th March 2012, 20:54

Thanks San. The oil level in my bike is a bit high. Courtesy : RE service for not removing the secondary plug and thus messing up the drain procedure. In the morning I can see the meniscus of oil near the top of the oil window. Once the bike is warmed up, the oil window is full and the oil will come down to the upper limit only if you tilt the bike to the left. So I think that means an overfilled engine. There is no oil thrown into the air filter chamber through the breather pipe but still there is a gut feeling that the level needs correction. What I am planning to do is the following :

1. Buy a brand new water spray bottle.
2. Unscrew the top cap with the trigger and tube.
3. Insert the tube into the oil filler hole (Yes of course taking good care that nothing falls inside)
4. Pump out some 50 to 100ml oil into a fresh bottle and check the oil level again.

Can you experts please advise as to whether there is anything wrong with this procedure (pumping oil out through the filler hole) ? I really don't wish to mess things up by opening the drain nuts

While checking the oil level, I had placed a spirit level on the engine mount (red arrow in the picture) to steady up the bike. Is it ok ? I mean will it give correct level readings ?
Regards adrian

ArizonaJim · 25th March 2012, 03:22

Adrian
I see nothing wrong with your plan and using a spirit level is a good idea if your parking area is not level.

As for the oil level being at the top of the sight window when the engine is cold and being above the sight window when the engine is hot, that is due to the expansion of the oil.

More than once I have inadvertently overfilled my oil sump and ended up with the oil level precisely where your's is (at the top of the window when cold).

I was not overly concerned with this slight error and did not attempt to correct it.
There was no adverse effect on my engine when I did this and it has been running fine for over 7,260 km (4,500 miles).

Rennjit · 25th March 2012, 16:28

@ adrian, no issues with pulling out oil through filling port.
Would be easy to do with a big syringe. That pump thingie simply is made to spray water, it may need work to discharge oil volumes.

Edit: you seem to bother too much with spirit level etc, Just park at a place which is visibly level.

adrian · 25th March 2012, 20:38

@ Jim : My bike is not showing any issues either and hence I will follow your lead and keep things as it is

@ Rennjit : Unlike the CI bullets with the dip stick, if you look into the filler plug of the uces, you cannot see oil directly. All you can see is metallic structures and oil way down in the bottom between them. This prevents the usage of a syringe directly unless you use a thin, long and flexible tube in the nozzle (where the needle is attached to). But once you set the things right it packs more advantage than the sprayer gadget as you said.

You know what.. you have keyed in what I have been thinking over and over for a couple of days ! I am overly and unnecessarily worrying over silly things on a tough machine

May be I should stop looking at my machine with a magnifying glass and enjoy riding it instead !!
Regards Adrian

Rennjit · 26th March 2012, 20:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by adrian

..... unless you use a thin, long and flexible tube in the nozzle (where the needle is attached to). ...

you mean like this one?

RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership-iv.jpg

adrian · 27th March 2012, 20:25

@ Rennjit :Hey you nailed it fast.

Actually I use a syringe to lubricate my clutch cable as well. All you have to do is take oil (3 in 1 oil) that is used in sewing machine in a big syringe ; let some one pull the clutch lever in ; insert the needle (use a long needle) between the cable and sleeve at the lever end and squeeze till the oil appears on the other end. Use oil with low viscosity only and if not, be prepared to push the plunger like hell with a little effect !

Advantage of this method :
1. You don't have to remove the cable to lubricate it. It also prolongs cable life and provides a butter smooth clutch operation.
Bottom line : Frequent the surgical and laboratory supplies and you will see so many gadgets that would be of use to maintain you motorbike !
Regards Adrian

Anz1979 · 6th April 2012, 10:24

I have changed the oil to Motul Synthetic in my CL350. After that the bike was smoother than earlier, better mileage (48/liter) and no engine noise were the results. I was enjoying this for a month.
One day my bike misfired on my way to office. This happened on the following days also. And also noticed that bike shows symptoms like “going to reserve” or “no petrol in tank “even though the tank holds 8 liters of fuel. Shown the bike to RE service in Trivandrum. They returned thee bike after inspection. Told me that cleaned the carb and there is a scratch mark in the slider inside the carburetor.
But there was a change in the performance of bike as I noticed, it didn’t misfired again but it still has that going to reserve phenomena and the bike became hard. That means very rough just like there is no lubrication in the engine. Again taken that to RE service and told them. The guy there taken it for a ride and then tuned it a bit and it felt smoother than before. He changed one Sparkplug adapter also in the process. I felt the difference in riding.
But still the bike has that going to reserve phenomena in the 4th gear. It happens once in the morning after the bike covers 4 km. Mileage dropped to 34-36km, bike is still rough no that smooth as it was earlier.
As far as I know sparkplug, its adapter, battery and carb can cause such problems. As I know Carb’s slider has a scratch my mind says problem can be with that…

Any other cause… Please give your suggestions…

KA18 · 6th April 2012, 13:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anz1979

...bike shows symptoms like “going to reserve” or “no petrol in tank “even though the tank holds 8 liters of fuel. ... Mileage dropped to 34-36km, bike is still rough no that smooth as it was earlier.

Any other cause… Please give your suggestions…

It seems that the smooth flow of fuel is restricted.

Check the fuel tank for debris which might be accumulated near the outlet.

If this does not work, try cleaning or replacing the Fuel cock.

Anz1979 · 6th April 2012, 23:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by KA18

It seems that the smooth flow of fuel is restricted.

Check the fuel tank for debris which might be accumulated near the outlet.

If this does not work, try cleaning or replacing the Fuel cock.

It is a new tank replaced under warranty 3 months ago by RE. Tank paint was peeling from the neck and there were air bubbles under the paint coat.

And the petrol filled up from reputed pump, from where I always fill for both my car and CL350 and Aviator. Flow is adequate.

Also if the culprit is debris why I can't feel it throughout my ride. The vehicle shows symptom to stall only in the morning after 4 km run. Why it is rough? That is my doubt.

click · 9th April 2012, 12:19

Finally... the wait about to get over (12 months...) should get the 350 black classic in 2 weeks.

Will start to scrounge these forums for the old posts about PDI. If anyone has bookmarked them, please do share them. I am getting the bike from Bandra Showroom in Mumbi, if there are any additional things i need to be aware about, I would appreciate your advice.

Thanks in advance.

KA18 · 14th April 2012, 13:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by click

Finally... the wait about to get over (12 months...) should get the 350 black classic in 2 weeks.

Will start to scrounge these forums for the old posts about PDI. If anyone has bookmarked them, please do share them. I am getting the bike from Bandra Showroom in Mumbi, if there are any additional things i need to be aware about, I would appreciate your advice.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Click, check out this thread created when I was getting my bike: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...checklist.html.
Hope it helps.

iron.head · 14th April 2012, 20:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by click

Finally... the wait about to get over (12 months...) should get the 350 black classic in 2 weeks.

Here is the PDI from Randhawa-

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ml#post2534192

Anz1979 · 20th April 2012, 18:06

My bikes problem solved. RE has replaced the carburetor under warranty. Now it is butter smooth.

Can we use C5's spark plugs in C3? Heard about the performance of Bosch WR8DP -M14 and UR6DC M10. My mech suggests this is good. My doubt is what is the difference between small plugs UR6DC and UR5DC? Also the difference between W5DC and WR8DP?

Anz1979 · 21st April 2012, 21:39

At last today I replaced my C3's both plugs.Primary was MICO replaced with Bosch WR8DP and secondary with Bosch UR6DC. I can feel the difference in smoothness and bike says I have more muscle.That was a short ride of around 16km.

I had a talk with Bosch sales people.They have shown me one more plug with 4 electrodes. They said it wont misfire because normally any one of the electrode will fire.

But they also suggested the platinum one WR8DP as the performance is guaranteed The plug is an imported one. Made in Germany. The smaller one, UR6DC also use for Hero Honda and is made in India.

18th March 2012, 20:15	#946
stnair BHPian Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Calicut Posts: 230 Thanked: 6 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership @adrian Jealous perverts are everywhere...sorry to hear about it. I think full oil can be drained only if both plugs are removed. (Read my fiasco with synthetic oil change a few pages back). But a word of caution- The secondary or big hexa drain nut, the thread can be easily damaged because of Aluminium crank case even if slightly overtightened - one reason why your RE service didnt remove it. regards san
	() Thanks

24th March 2012, 20:54	#947
adrian BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 932 Thanked: 1,215 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership Thanks San. The oil level in my bike is a bit high. Courtesy : RE service for not removing the secondary plug and thus messing up the drain procedure. In the morning I can see the meniscus of oil near the top of the oil window. Once the bike is warmed up, the oil window is full and the oil will come down to the upper limit only if you tilt the bike to the left. So I think that means an overfilled engine. There is no oil thrown into the air filter chamber through the breather pipe but still there is a gut feeling that the level needs correction. What I am planning to do is the following : 1. Buy a brand new water spray bottle. 2. Unscrew the top cap with the trigger and tube. 3. Insert the tube into the oil filler hole (Yes of course taking good care that nothing falls inside) 4. Pump out some 50 to 100ml oil into a fresh bottle and check the oil level again. Can you experts please advise as to whether there is anything wrong with this procedure (pumping oil out through the filler hole) ? I really don't wish to mess things up by opening the drain nuts While checking the oil level, I had placed a spirit level on the engine mount (red arrow in the picture) to steady up the bike. Is it ok ? I mean will it give correct level readings ? Regards adrian Attached Thumbnails Last edited by adrian : 24th March 2012 at 21:14. Reason: Adding more
	() Thanks

25th March 2012, 03:22	#948
ArizonaJim Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Phoenix, Ariz. Posts: 1,200 Thanked: 2,837 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership Adrian I see nothing wrong with your plan and using a spirit level is a good idea if your parking area is not level. As for the oil level being at the top of the sight window when the engine is cold and being above the sight window when the engine is hot, that is due to the expansion of the oil. More than once I have inadvertently overfilled my oil sump and ended up with the oil level precisely where your's is (at the top of the window when cold). I was not overly concerned with this slight error and did not attempt to correct it. There was no adverse effect on my engine when I did this and it has been running fine for over 7,260 km (4,500 miles).
	(1) Thanks

25th March 2012, 16:28	#949
Rennjit BHPian Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Namma Bangalore Posts: 668 Thanked: 166 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership @ adrian, no issues with pulling out oil through filling port. Would be easy to do with a big syringe. That pump thingie simply is made to spray water, it may need work to discharge oil volumes. Edit: you seem to bother too much with spirit level etc, Just park at a place which is visibly level. Last edited by Rennjit : 25th March 2012 at 16:31.
	(1) Thanks

25th March 2012, 20:38	#950
adrian BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 932 Thanked: 1,215 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership @ Jim : My bike is not showing any issues either and hence I will follow your lead and keep things as it is @ Rennjit : Unlike the CI bullets with the dip stick, if you look into the filler plug of the uces, you cannot see oil directly. All you can see is metallic structures and oil way down in the bottom between them. This prevents the usage of a syringe directly unless you use a thin, long and flexible tube in the nozzle (where the needle is attached to). But once you set the things right it packs more advantage than the sprayer gadget as you said. You know what.. you have keyed in what I have been thinking over and over for a couple of days ! I am overly and unnecessarily worrying over silly things on a tough machine May be I should stop looking at my machine with a magnifying glass and enjoy riding it instead !! Regards Adrian Last edited by adrian : 25th March 2012 at 20:41.
	() Thanks

27th March 2012, 20:25	#952
adrian BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 932 Thanked: 1,215 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership @ Rennjit :Hey you nailed it fast. Actually I use a syringe to lubricate my clutch cable as well. All you have to do is take oil (3 in 1 oil) that is used in sewing machine in a big syringe ; let some one pull the clutch lever in ; insert the needle (use a long needle) between the cable and sleeve at the lever end and squeeze till the oil appears on the other end. Use oil with low viscosity only and if not, be prepared to push the plunger like hell with a little effect ! Advantage of this method : 1. You don't have to remove the cable to lubricate it. It also prolongs cable life and provides a butter smooth clutch operation. Bottom line : Frequent the surgical and laboratory supplies and you will see so many gadgets that would be of use to maintain you motorbike ! Regards Adrian Last edited by adrian : 27th March 2012 at 20:30.
	() Thanks

6th April 2012, 10:24	#953
Anz1979 BHPian Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 33 Thanked: 6 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership I have changed the oil to Motul Synthetic in my CL350. After that the bike was smoother than earlier, better mileage (48/liter) and no engine noise were the results. I was enjoying this for a month. One day my bike misfired on my way to office. This happened on the following days also. And also noticed that bike shows symptoms like “going to reserve” or “no petrol in tank “even though the tank holds 8 liters of fuel. Shown the bike to RE service in Trivandrum. They returned thee bike after inspection. Told me that cleaned the carb and there is a scratch mark in the slider inside the carburetor. But there was a change in the performance of bike as I noticed, it didn’t misfired again but it still has that going to reserve phenomena and the bike became hard. That means very rough just like there is no lubrication in the engine. Again taken that to RE service and told them. The guy there taken it for a ride and then tuned it a bit and it felt smoother than before. He changed one Sparkplug adapter also in the process. I felt the difference in riding. But still the bike has that going to reserve phenomena in the 4th gear. It happens once in the morning after the bike covers 4 km. Mileage dropped to 34-36km, bike is still rough no that smooth as it was earlier. As far as I know sparkplug, its adapter, battery and carb can cause such problems. As I know Carb’s slider has a scratch my mind says problem can be with that… Any other cause… Please give your suggestions…
	() Thanks

9th April 2012, 12:19	#956
click BHPian Join Date: May 2011 Location: Mumbai Posts: 217 Thanked: 614 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership Finally... the wait about to get over (12 months...) should get the 350 black classic in 2 weeks. Will start to scrounge these forums for the old posts about PDI. If anyone has bookmarked them, please do share them. I am getting the bike from Bandra Showroom in Mumbi, if there are any additional things i need to be aware about, I would appreciate your advice. Thanks in advance.
	() Thanks

20th April 2012, 18:06	#959
Anz1979 BHPian Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 33 Thanked: 6 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership My bikes problem solved. RE has replaced the carburetor under warranty. Now it is butter smooth. Can we use C5's spark plugs in C3? Heard about the performance of Bosch WR8DP -M14 and UR6DC M10. My mech suggests this is good. My doubt is what is the difference between small plugs UR6DC and UR5DC? Also the difference between W5DC and WR8DP?
	() Thanks

21st April 2012, 21:39	#960
Anz1979 BHPian Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 33 Thanked: 6 Times	Re: RE Classic 350 - Initial ownership At last today I replaced my C3's both plugs.Primary was MICO replaced with Bosch WR8DP and secondary with Bosch UR6DC. I can feel the difference in smoothness and bike says I have more muscle.That was a short ride of around 16km. I had a talk with Bosch sales people.They have shown me one more plug with 4 electrodes. They said it wont misfire because normally any one of the electrode will fire. But they also suggested the platinum one WR8DP as the performance is guaranteed The plug is an imported one. Made in Germany. The smaller one, UR6DC also use for Hero Honda and is made in India.
	() Thanks