[ArizonaJim]

adrian: Resistor type spark plugs have a 5000 ohm resistor built into them to reduce radio signal noise.

This radio signal noise or static that is emitted by a non-resistor type spark plug can not only interfere with AM radios but it will often cause problems with on board computers such as is used by the fuel injected UCE bikes or other vehicles near your motorcycle.

Depending on the RF shielding for the computer or wiring leading to the computer it may not cause any problems at all or it could cause engine misfireing or fuel ratio problems.

It would be a good idea to change the spark plug to a resistor type.

Blazkowicz: As the motorcycle was used prior to your buying it, it is possible that the previous owner has changed the headlight bulb for a more powerful one.

This is sometimes done to increase the amount of light output to make riding at night safer.

While the goal is worthwhile, the alternator in the Royal Enfield is fairly weak, being designed to provide power for a 50 watt headlight plus running lights and the tail light under normal conditions.
Normal conditions in this case means the engine is running faster than idling.

The power output of a alternator is related to the engine speed and if the engine is run slowly for long periods of time with the headlight on it may not produce enough electricity to recharge the battery between engine starts.

I suggest that you inspect the headlight bulb to determine its power requirements. If it is higher than 50 watts, consider replacing it with a standard RE factory bulb.

If you have access to a volt/ohm meter (or someone who owns one) you may want to check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running faster than an idle speed and the headlight turned on.
The voltage should be greater than 14 volts.

If it is not 14 volts or higher there is something wrong with the alternator, the Zener Diode or the wiring connectors between the alternator and the battery.

[Blazkowicz]

The problem is finally fixed. Turns out that it was a simple issue dirt in one of the connectors. Not only is the battery charging now with the headlamps on, the charging current with the lights off has also gone up. Now I can finally take the bike out on a long ride without any worries whatsoever.

[HariRE350]

Hi team-bhpians,
I just love the reviews and the threads in this forum, I am a newbie to t-bhp. I have booked a black classic 350 close to two months ago here in Bangalore. The dealer has handed me a 10 - 12 month waiting period, so i guess i will be seeing her ony in August-2013. Man, it really is a long wait, atleast i have the company of you guys over here to discuss about the pluses and minuses as well as the upkeep of the beast. It will be my first thumper. Will be updating about it regularly,
Happy thumping! Ride safe

[arjithin]

Finally after a 15 month wait and multiple fights/escalations, I got my CL 350 today. The dealer was Teknik motors, Indiranagar. Enough has been said about the vehicle/reason for choices etc; so I am not repeating anything. My dealership experience was pathetic, I had better experiences in govt offices like police station or RTO.

some photos for your viewing pleasure.





Bike had 5km on the odo at the time of delivery; Oil leaks started appearing as soon as reached I home (odo = 19km). see below pictures. Let me know if any of these is severe in nature.



Behind the kicker



The brake light was working fine at dealership; but now it stays on as soon as I switch on ignition. Should be a faulty switch of spring.

The glove box doors don't close well; and as a result there is some paint loss on the edges. Got it touched up; but with poor workmanship..



Will keep on updating any additional info in this thread..

[bradhey]

It is an oil leak and not oil sweat. Dealer should open the right side engine cover and replace the oil gasket. He could also use MSeal rubber gasket (this comes in a tube). Rest of the issues are eyesore and should be compared with other bikes and replaced if necessary. I suggest that you join a RE club. This helps to get better services from your dealer, apart from becoming part of a great brotherhood

[ArizonaJim]

arjithin
The oil on the top of the right hand sidecover looks like it may be coming from the inspection plate just above it. Your dealers mechanic should fix this for no charge.

The oil/grease you see on the ledge below the chain drive sprocket is oil/grease that has been thrown off of the drive chain. This is totally normal and if you keep your chain oiled as you should, expect to see more of it accumulating there.
The only answer for this is to use an old rag to wipe the area clean.

The brake light being on is most likely due to the adjustment of the rear brake switch. This switch is connected to the rear brake pedel by the spring you see in your next to the last photo that you posted.
Again, your dealers mechanic should be able to determine if I am correct. In any case, he should fix this problem for you.

Happy riding !

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by bradhey

It is an oil leak and not oil sweat. Dealer should open the right side engine cover and replace the oil gasket. He could also use MSeal rubber gasket (this comes in a tube).

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

arjithin
The oil on the top of the right hand sidecover looks like it may be coming from the inspection plate just above it. Your dealers mechanic should fix this for no charge.

Thanks for the suggestions. I spend few mts checking the oil leak today; found that the engine cover bolts are very loose; tightened it myself and hopefully that will solve the oil leak. Whether the bolts were loose right from the factory or someone opened it up in the dealership is not known. I will get its first service done in a different showroom and will ask them to check if anything is abnormal there..Heard about malpractices of replacing parts from brand new vehicles at dealerships; so need to check it out.

[arjithin]

250 km update:

Enjoying the bike, 2 of my colleagues already booked their CL350 seeing mine !!!

1. Bike feels a bit rough in hot days @ city traffic. I think this is expected
2. Took a 60 km non stop ride this morning. I took the bike to 50+ kmph today first time. Very noticeable vibrations in the handlebar between 50-60 kmph, maximum vibrations felt at 55 after which it reduced to almost zero by 60. Didnt take it north of 60. Any idea what could be wrong?
3. Engine oil became very dark, thinking of an early change.
4. some tic tic sound coming from the Engine during cold start (only at low RPMs). I normally idle the bike for 60 seconds before riding and this sound comes during the initial idling. A bit of throttle takes this sound away .
5. Rear brake needs adjustment.
6. Planning to buy a saddle bag, may be next week.
7. Bought a Philips Bluevision Ultra 60/55W bulb yesterday, will change it today and post pictures.
8. Gear shift is tight and most of the time produces a loud clik sound.

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by arjithin

250 km update:
2. Took a 60 km non stop ride this morning. I took the bike to 50+ kmph today first time. Very noticeable vibrations in the handlebar between 50-60 kmph, maximum vibrations felt at 55 after which it reduced to almost zero by 60. Didnt take it north of 60. Any idea what could be wrong?

Any suggestions? I will be taking the bike for first service next week. Had a quick chat with the SA few days before and his response wasnt encouraging ("please bring it sir, we will checkout");

[apachelongbow]

Originally Posted by arjithin

Any suggestions? I will be taking the bike for first service next week. Had a quick chat with the SA few days before and his response wasnt encouraging ("please bring it sir, we will checkout");

Possible that your wheels are not completely aligned, for you to get noticable vibrations. Also get the steering joints checked. Anyways not a major problem per se, should get corrected easily during your service.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by arjithin

Any suggestions? I will be taking the bike for first service next week. Had a quick chat with the SA few days before and his response wasnt encouraging ("please bring it sir, we will checkout");

At 250-300km your motorcycle is in its first phase of its break in.

Speaking of the moderately high speed vibrations you may be feeling, please understand the following:

During this period the many moving parts are just learning to live together.
Clearances between many of the parts are still small and this can cause some vibration.

As the distance you have ridden increases these clearances between the parts will become greater and the vibration will decrease.

By the time my UCE 500cc EFI reached 1600 km (1000 miles) the engine vibration had reduced to the point that it was hardly noticed except at speeds over 105 kmph. Even this became less and by the time I had ridden it 6500 km there was no noticeable vibration even at 120+ kmph.

There are a few things that can make the vibration quite severe that your dealer should look at.
The "head steady" or brace that connects the cylinder head to the frame at the rear of the fuel tank has been known to crack or to be loose.
If this has happened, it should be replaced or tightened.

Loose engine mount bolts can also cause excessive vibration. Here again, tightening them to factory specs will fix the problem.

If the vibration is very slow, at the same speed that the tyres are rotating your wheel(s) may be out of balance. This should also be looked for by your dealer.

[arjithin]

apachelongbow/ ArizonaJim , thanks for the suggestions. I will update what the dealer finds after the first service. Vibration of handlebar starts around 45kmph and will be peak around 50-52kmph and will reduce to none by 60 kmph.

[vinjosep]

What is the battery spec for CL350? I need to replace the same and hence the question. Would appreciate if someone could suggest the available options in the market.

The bike & battery are definitely out of warranty. I was out of the country and hence have to replace the battery once am back.

[arjithin]

500 km update:
first service done at Brand store service center. They did an average plus job. They completed the service in 2 hrs, and handed over the bike while I waited there. They need appointments for paid service, saw they sending back few people who came without appt.

Bike feels overall smoother and engine feels much more silent when its cold. But as its gets hotter, vibrations/sound increases. I told every one (including the service manager) about the handlebar vibrations; according to them new UCE engine vibrates at 20kmph, 60kmph and 90kmph. One of the service advisors took my bike for a test ride, but completed in just 200 meters. ( I am sure he couldnt reach 50kmph+). He asked the mechanic to tighten the handlebar nuts; but the vibrations are still there. I will have to ride another CL350 to find out if RE's claim of this vibration as normal is correct. Any fellow bhpians in or around HSR layout area who can help me?

After the service, its becoming harder to get the gears in slot; especially downshifting from 5 to 4 to 3.

Also looks like something wrong with my petrol tap ; reserve to reserve method gave me a mileage of 46 and 49 kmpl for the last two petrol fillings. Will empty the tank and measure what is remaining when it goes to reserve next time.

[arjithin]

We went to Nandi hills last weekend (140 km round trip); by the time I returned my hands were numb because of the vibrations. I also rode a friends CL350 with 3800 km on the odo, that bike seemed to be with nearly zero vibrations (compared to mine). He rode mine and complained about the vibrations too.

So took the bike again to the BTM service center. Met the service manager in person. He asked one of his other SAs to drive with me and they confirmed the excessive vibrations. THE SA also agreed that the other two complaints ( Clutch and brake) were not addressed in the first service. Left the bike with them to fix all three issues.

For handlebar vibrations, they said they need to check the engine mounting first, then the cam gears. Got a call from them after 2days that the bike is ready. I still feel vibrations around 50 kmph and everytime the engine rpm crosses a certain limit, which they again say is normal. My benchmark is now the other CL350 that I drove and it was far better. THey want to replace the cam sleeve, but it was not there with them in stock. THey will call me once available.

Regarding clutch, they say a faulty foot rest was the reason gears were not getting in slot. Its corrected now, but I dont see any improvement again. According to SA, I will always hear a CLUK sound when I engage first or second gear, and it should not be there for 3,4 & 5. I get this sound for all the gears.

Brakes - fixed now. I feel more confident now with the rear brakes.

Not sure how to convince them on vibrations. One of the reason they cant find it is their location. they cant go 50kmph+ anywhere near to their service center.