[bradhey]

With reference to what Nasirkaka has mentioned, it might be safe to draw a conclusion that on the BS32 Carb, a combination of 17.5 pilot jet and 125-130 main jet is the correct combination to go for all who would like to have their C500s carbed. This could turn out to be a highly recommended change in few years, to bypass all the wizardry of the EFI components. Imangine how a change of ECU /Fuel Pump/Throttle body could set you back by several thousand Rupees. And above all a failure of any of the above could spoil your trip and leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere ! I think we must thank Rajith Cherian a fellow owner of C500 for taking the plunge and setting a platform for all riders to follow in his footsteps.

[nareshtrao]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Aneone wanting to try and feel the carbed C5 is most welcome for a test ride. bikes is always available close to forum mall, near koramangala.

Nasir, Very kind of you to offer. Would like to try and decide as I have a 2011 Chrome 500.

Where can I contact you? I stay in Koramangala. Will send a PM. Thanks.

[nasirkaka]

With reference to what Nasirkaka has mentioned, it might be safe to draw a conclusion that on the BS32 Carb, a combination of 17.5 pilot jet and 125-130 main jet is the correct combination to go for all who would like to have their C500s carbed.

Not sure. Running with 17.5 pilot and 125 main for a few days, today when i checked the plug, it was BONE WHITE. This is the first time in 3 years, i saw a different colour for the plug, other then black

I guess with the current setup, the bike is running lean. I think i have a 20 pilot, which i have not tried so far. That might get me closer to the ideal brown plugs.

Or could there be a possibility of adjusting the air screw to make the mixture a bit richer with the current jets of 17.5 pilot and 125 main? Can anyone with knowledge of Carbs throw some light?

A phone pic of the primary plug this morning:

[bradhey]

That surely is lean Nasirkaka. Did you check it after a high speed run. If not, you must enrich the air fuel ratio. Better still try comparing it with the Jets used on the LB500.

[nasirkaka]

That surely is lean Nasirkaka. Did you check it after a high speed run. If not, you must enrich the air fuel ratio. Better still try comparing it with the Jets used on the LB500.

LB 500 came with 15 pilot and 110 main, me thinks.

Had gone for a 200kms ride yesterday, after enriching the mixture using the mixture screw on the carb. Bike returned a mileage of 35+ kmpl, most of the riding being done at 80-90 kmpl. This is with 17.5 pilot and 125 main.
After the ride i checked the plug and found the bike was still running lean. Think i am close to the somewhat ideal setup. sourcing and experimenting with a few more jet sizes would get me there. I am expecting an average of around 30kmpl, with decent brwon plugs, and decent power. Not too much to ask for?

i need some help in locating jets for UCAL type carbs. I need 20 pilot jet, and 130,135,140 main jets. Anyone having them or contact info on any source would be of great help.

[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

LB 500 came with 15 pilot and 110 main, me thinks.

Had gone for a 200kms ride yesterday, after enriching the mixture using the mixture screw on the carb. Bike returned a mileage of 35+ kmpl, most of the riding being done at 80-90 kmpl. This is with 17.5 pilot and 125 main.
After the ride i checked the plug and found the bike was still running lean. Think i am close to the somewhat ideal setup. sourcing and experimenting with a few more jet sizes would get me there. I am expecting an average of around 30kmpl, with decent brwon plugs, and decent power. Not too much to ask for?

i need some help in locating jets for UCAL type carbs. I need 20 pilot jet, and 130,135,140 main jets. Anyone having them or contact info on any source would be of great help.

I wondered if you checked the plug after a normal run > stop> switch off or a proper plug chop at the throttle position you generally use on the road( in terms of most of the time). If you stopped normally, down shifting and letting the engine slow to idle before cut off, your bone white plug could be indicating a lean condition at low throttle openings. Only a plug chop at large throttle openings will tell you the mixture quality under such conditions. Engine airflow does not scale linearly with throttle position.

[nasirkaka]

I wondered if you checked the plug after a normal run > stop> switch off or a proper plug chop at the throttle position you generally use on the road( in terms of most of the time). If you stopped normally, down shifting and letting the engine slow to idle before cut off, your bone white plug could be indicating a lean condition at low throttle openings. Only a plug chop at large throttle openings will tell you the mixture quality under such conditions. Engine airflow does not scale linearly with throttle position.

Most of the checks were done in a similar fashion thats is normal run, stop, switch off. the plug was found to be white (very lean). At one of the longish rides, when the engine was hot and i was doing about 80-90 kmph for a while, i switched off the engine and coasted to a halt. checked the plugs and it was still white. At that time i realised, the mixture screw was only 3/4 of a turn away from fully closed position. after doing some searches on net, found that on these UCAL BS32 carbs, closing the mixture screw=leaner mixture.
Next i opened the mixture screw about 4 full turns from fully closed position. checked the plug the nest day, and it was moderately black. did some more trials with the mixture screw and now the plug is somewhat black. with this setup the mileage is dropped to about 26kmpl from 35 kmpl. Not sure whats the correct approach. please suggest. Most of my riding is within the city traffic where throttle is opening does not really go beyond 1/4th. I dont want the bike to be runing lean, so i have managed to achieve slightly darker plugs by opening the mixture screw. This had resulted in FE loss. sometimes during cold start, there seems to be slight black smoke coming from the exhaust, while idling with cold engine. Also, just at the moment when i intend to release the throttle, even slightly, there is a mild misfire from the exhaust only at lower speeds < 30. the popping/ misfire only happens once, and is different from the lean condition misfire, while de-accelerating, which goes like bud..bud.. bud..

What do you make of the situation? :(

[hexanerax]

At lower throttle openings, engine breathing is poor and the mixture should appear a tad rich. I don't know if the BS 32 has a replacement needle available but for 1/4- 1/2 throttle openings, the bike should be running on the needle jet. The main jet will control fuel at 60% or greater throttle openings. The pilot does duties during starting and idle. You should try lifting up your needle a bit more. A slimmer needle will also work well.

Regards
Naren

[hexanerax]

http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgur...9QEwAw&dur=887

[nasirkaka]

At lower throttle openings, engine breathing is poor and the mixture should appear a tad rich. I don't know if the BS 32 has a replacement needle available but for 1/4- 1/2 throttle openings, the bike should be running on the needle jet. The main jet will control fuel at 60% or greater throttle openings. The pilot does duties during starting and idle. You should try lifting up your needle a bit more. A slimmer needle will also work well.

The bike starts and idles without any hiccups. even during cold starts, or if i start the bike after 3 days, it starts on the first crank, and idles smoothly. Never shuts down. the idling rpm feels like 800-900.

As you mentioned, seems like its running lean towards the lower and mid throttle opening. Could be lean at 60% and above as well with the 125 main jet, so was hunting for larger jets to start setting the carb from higher PRMs and slowly come down. unfortunately the BS32 does not have adjustable needle, but i believe there is a way of lifting the needle by adding a thin washer. Guess i will have to look for an experienced mechanic, and explore a bit more.

[hexanerax]

One solution could be to dump the Ucal carb and go in for a more refined carb like the Mikuni TM 32 Flatslide. Lots of tuning potential there. I helped my brother build India's first Fireball Enfield in Bengalooru and we used the TM 32. Worked perfectly right on the first try. No hesitation, starting issues or mixture problems and a huge range of jets and needles are available for that model. Check out https://plus.google.com/photos/10098...wa&gpsrc=pwrd1 for a photo detail of the build.

[nasirkaka]

Originally Posted by hexanerax

One solution could be to dump the Ucal carb and go in for a more refined carb like the Mikuni TM 32 Flatslide. Lots of tuning potential there. I helped my brother build India's first Fireball Enfield in Bengalooru and we used the TM 32. Worked perfectly right on the first try. No hesitation, starting issues or mixture problems and a huge range of jets and needles are available for that model. Check out https://plus.google.com/photos/10098...wa&gpsrc=pwrd1 for a photo detail of the build.

That build-off looks yummy with lots of passion and dedication. If i may ask, what were approx power and torque figures achieved.
I have been eying a TM 32 flat-slide, issue is its difficult to get one or is very expensive. Was waiting for an opportunity, to get it from abroad with someone, but no luck so far. Do you have any contacts to source them locally in bangalore/india..

[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

That build-off looks yummy with lots of passion and dedication. If i may ask, what were approx power and torque figures achieved.
I have been eying a TM 32 flat-slide, issue is its difficult to get one or is very expensive. Was waiting for an opportunity, to get it from abroad with someone, but no luck so far. Do you have any contacts to source them locally in bangalore/india..

That build is rated for 42 BHP + and about 40 Nm. Have not dyno'd it but the engine is reputed to push the bullet to beyond 100 MPH 2 up. The stage 2 upgrade to this engine will see the fitting of the shotgun rockers to release upwards of 50 BHP. I will PM you my brother's email and you can get details of the TM 32 from him.

Regards
Naren

[adityaguru]

Hi,

My Classic has developed a new problem. Moved it from Mumbai to Chennai via Gati. As soon as it reached here, I noticed that the bike shimmies at 60 kph. Nothing before. Nothing after.

Two things have changed since Mumbai.

1. Transportation Damage: One reason could be the transportation damage to some part(I am clueless here)

2. This will sound weird, but another change was the silencer. I refitted the bazooka silencer. Earlier too, I had noticed similar vibrations at the same speeds for the first 500kms of having the bazooka. Got it changed during the first service. Couldn't figure out whether the vibes went away due to servicing or changing the silencer.


Does anyone have any idea on this issue?

[ArizonaJim]

I think it unlikely that there was any transportation damage as most of the things that could cause your problem would leave a visible mark or scrape.

Reinstalling your old silencer should not cause a problem although there is no doubt that its extra weight does change the resonance frequency of the bike.
It could be that the fasteners were not fully tightened. That could allow it to vibrate to such a degree that it could be felt throughout the motorcycle.

Other things to look for is a loose or broken engine mount bolt.
At the bottom of the engine is a bolt that passes thru the frame and engine.
Use a wrench or pliers to try to turn each end of this.
This mount bolt is tightened very tightly. Much tighter than a small wrench would be capable of accomplishing.
If you can turn it, it is either loose or broken and either of these conditions will cause excessive vibration which may seem to be more pronounced at certain speeds.

Another thing to examine is the cylinder steady (or brace).
This is a steel strip that connects to the rear of the cylinder head and to the frame at the rear of the fuel tank.
This brace has been known to crack and if it does it will allow the engine to vibrate.