[Rennjit]

Can anyone please let me know the Make/ brand of Electric stater motor used in Uce models?

It is an outsourced component, the pre-unit 500's had great DENSO made motors while most 350's had pathetic Varroc make (worst ever thingie on those bikes, yuck.. the motor's screech even puts diesel ricks to shame!)

Denso ain't easy to get. Current Uce ES motors sounds good but to save myself from pains later i'd prefer to know the make

Could some one here pls help?

[Objectiveman]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Can anyone please let me know the Make/ brand of Electric stater motor used in Uce models?

It is an outsourced component, the pre-unit 500's had great DENSO made motors while most 350's had pathetic Varroc make (worst ever thingie on those bikes, yuck.. the motor's screech even puts diesel ricks to shame!)

Denso ain't easy to get. Current Uce ES motors sounds good but to save myself from pains later i'd prefer to know the make

Could some one here pls help?

The stock part is not available but you can try a Minda branded one which can be used in UCE.

[ArizonaJim]

I'm not sure who makes the electric starter motor that is used on the new UCE engines, but I have yet to hear of a failure of one of them.

There has been a number of failures of the electrical starter solenoid (relay) which controls the electrical current to the starter motor.

This solenoid is the large cylindrical device which has the heavy duty wire running from the battery to it and a similar wire running from it to the electrical connection on the starter motor. Several smaller wires are also connected to it to activate it.

[Objectiveman]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I'm not sure who makes the electric starter motor that is used on the new UCE engines, but I have yet to hear of a failure of one of them.

There has been a number of failures of the electrical starter solenoid (relay) which controls the electrical current to the starter motor.

This solenoid is the large cylindrical device which has the heavy duty wire running from the battery to it and a similar wire running from it to the electrical connection on the starter motor. Several smaller wires are also connected to it to activate it.

That is true Jim, infact I mistook the question about starter motor for starter relay.

An unrelated question for you Jim. I got the piston-cylinder kit changed recently after 39000 km on my C5. What should be the oil change period and should I treat 2000 km as the break-in period? I have been using Motul semi-synthetic 15W50 since some time now.
Thanks.

[cogentr]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I'm not sure who makes the electric starter motor that is used on the new UCE engines, but I have yet to hear of a failure of one of them.

These are Denso 0.9 KW motors.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Objectiveman

An unrelated question for you Jim. I got the piston-cylinder kit changed recently after 39000 km on my C5. What should be the oil change period and should I treat 2000 km as the break-in period? I have been using Motul semi-synthetic 15W50 since some time now.
Thanks.

The new piston, piston rings and cylinder do need to be broken in.
During this period the rings and cylinder wall will wear. Early in the process greater leakage between the top of the cylinder and the crankcase will occur. This is especially true under high loads so using large throttle openings should be avoided.

While the engine is running, the piston, being aluminum, also expands much more rapidly than the steel liner that forms the cylinder bore. This will result in a light skuffing of the aluminum until enough of it wears away to provide a near "line to line" fit. If done slowly, no harm will be done to either part.
The dangerous part of this is if the engine is run hard and fast, the piston will expand faster than it can be worn away. This will result in the piston grabbing the cylinder wall and "seizing". This may not stop the engine but it can damage the piston.

IMO, you should break in a newly fitted cylinder, rings and piston by riding easy and giving the new parts a chance to cool off by stopping often on longer trips. I would avoid speeds higher than 65 kmph.
5 or 10 km trips at moderate speeds without stopping is fine unless the weather is unusually hot.

The new piston and rings should be worn in pretty well by the time they have been ridden 600-700 km.

I recommend changing the oil and oil filter following this break in. They will have accumulated a lot of small pieces of steel an aluminum which wore off of the cylinder wall, the piston rings and the piston. You really don't want those small bits in the engine and they will tend to plug up the oil filter.

Given a nice break in, your engine should be good for another 40,000 km.

[Objectiveman]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The new piston, piston rings and cylinder do need to be broken in.
During this period the rings and cylinder wall will wear. Early in the process greater leakage between the top of the cylinder and the crankcase will occur. This is especially true under high loads so using large throttle openings should be avoided.

Given a nice break in, your engine should be good for another 40,000 km.

Thank you Jim. I knew it needed to be broken in, what I needed to know is for how many kilometers, which I know now. :-) Thank you.
I have been following your posts since some time now on this and other forums. It is great of you to share your knowledge with rest of us.

Note from Support - Please avoid quoting a full post as it inconveniences our mobile users.

[sameerg]

Hi All,

I have a machismo 350 and am thinking of buying DS500. I went for a test drive today just to get an idea of extra torque. Dealer had only std 500 so couldnt test the EFI engine.

What i observed was that vibrations were very high compared to my machismo. Infact did a test drive for a CL350 just to see if it is the case with newer models but vibrations were much lesser compared to std 500. Dealer said its just because the test drive std 500 is not well maintained and that it is more than an year old model. Wanted to know what is the experience of people with the latest classic 500 version.

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by sameerg

Hi All,

I have a machismo 350 and am thinking of buying DS500. I went for a test drive today just to get an idea of extra torque. Dealer had only std 500 so couldnt test the EFI engine.

What i observed was that vibrations were very high compared to my machismo. Infact did a test drive for a CL350 just to see if it is the case with newer models but vibrations were much lesser compared to std 500. Dealer said its just because the test drive std 500 is not well maintained and that it is more than an year old model. Wanted to know what is the experience of people with the latest classic 500 version.

Fortunately your dealer is right, just go ahead with the booking. You can try to get a test ride from a different dealer of a CL/DS 500 just to clear any doubts.

[argchoff]

I recently changed over to motul semi synthetic oil (checking first the recommended product on the motul website for RE). Although the bike has been running fine i noticed that the colour of the oil (as seen from the viewing glass) has turned completely black! Is that normal? The only other mods on the bike are k&n filter ro5010 and iridium sparkplugs. Ans on that note i can add that there has been zero difference performance....only blackened oil

[ArizonaJim]

All good motor oils contain detergents in them to keep the interior of the engine clean.
These detergents (soaps) are effective on different by-products that are created as the engine runs so while one oil may be very effective, another companies oil may leave deposits behind.

Different oil companies use different detergents so by switching brands of oil, the new oils detergent often removes the accumulated debris that was left behind by the previous oil.
This can make the new oil appear to be much darker colored than the old oil was.

The color change is not necessary bad.
Usually the particles that are making it appear so dark are so small in size that they will have no negative effect on the ability of the oil to lubricate and clean the engine.

In other words, the dark oil will work just fine even though it looks "dirty".

My advice is to leave your new "darkened" oil in the engine and change it at the next scheduled change interval.

[argchoff]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

My advice is to leave your new "darkened" oil in the engine and change it at the next scheduled change interval.

Thanks. I might probably upgrade to fully synthetic oil for next oil change.

[sameerg]

Originally Posted by nerd1200

I know it has been quite some time after I posted this, but here I am keeping my promise.

Went down to the RE showroom and here is the breakdown of RE On-Road prices in Bangalore. Hope it helps some of you.. I was quite disappointed to find out no new models were on display at present. Will visit again next month.

I checked with another showroom, they said DS and other c500 have waiting of 2 months and TB500 just 15 days while the image you attached says 6 months for DS500 and 2 months for TB500. Which one is correct? Is my dealer lying or do different dealers have different wait lists?

I was under the impression that RE would be maintaining a waiting list at all india level rather than a dealer/region level but over past few days have heard stories of people getting bikes earlier in vizag/mangalore vs people in bangalore.

I am planning on booking a DS500 so a little confused

[P.S.]

Bike wise waitings are different I guess.

In February, thunderbird waiting was longer in Gurgaon than classic. Now the reverse is true.

[sameerg]

Originally Posted by P.S.

Bike wise waitings are different I guess.

In February, thunderbird waiting was longer in Gurgaon than classic. Now the reverse is true.

Bike wise difference is ok. I am concerned about dealer wise difference on same bike.