[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

I recently switched from RE's Liquid Gun Engine oil to fully synthetic (Motul 300V 15w50). The Service Head at the RE's A.S.S. in Bhandup suggested to not go with it as many owners who use Motul 300V have had issues with their crank. Is this possible? Although I have noticed improved performance and lesser vibrations, can it be really damaging the engine in anyway?

If you are sticking to the recommended specs, it should be fine. And crank problems arising due to synthetic oil is pure bogus. Give a tight slap across the SM's face on behalf of everyone here. Also, UCE-s running on company recommended mineral oil are prone to (and facing) big end failures resulting in replacement of the entire crankshaft.

PS: 300V is more of a race oriented double ester oil best suited for high revving engines. It is also costlier. Motul 7100 should be more than sufficient for a lazy engine like the UCE. It will be cheaper too.

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

PS: 300V is more of a race oriented double ester oil best suited for high revving engines. It is also costlier. Motul 7100 should be more than sufficient for a lazy engine like the UCE. It will be cheaper too.

Thanks for that. I noticed that 7100 is only available with grade 20w50. Can it be used? I believe the recommended specs are 15w50.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Thanks for that. I noticed that 7100 is only available with grade 20w50. Can it be used? I believe the recommended specs are 15w50.

Both oils can be used as your place never sees temperatures as low as 0 degrees. The viscosity index of 15W50 & 20W50 will be 50 only at 100 deg C. Hence you don't have to worry about this point.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Thanks for that. I noticed that 7100 is only available with grade 20w50. Can it be used? I believe the recommended specs are 15w50.

The 7100 used on my 390 is 10w50. You can use it without any problem.

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

The 7100 used on my 390 is 10w50. You can use it without any problem.

Originally Posted by ilangop

Both oils can be used as your place never sees temperatures as low as 0 degrees. The viscosity index of 15W50 & 20W50 will be 50 only at 100 deg C. Hence you don't have to worry about this point.

Thanks. I'll try that during my next oil change.

[ankit.rattan]

Guys please advise me on this, it will be of great help.
The other day i was riding my RE Cl 500, when suddenly there was a loud squiking sound and the engine stopped. I tried kick starting but could not start as the kick was totally jammed. Please suggest me what can be done about it.
ODO reading 21,000km
Thanks

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by ankit.rattan

Guys please advise me on this, it will be of great help.
The other day i was riding my RE Cl 500, when suddenly there was a loud squiking sound and the engine stopped. I tried kick starting but could not start as the kick was totally jammed. Please suggest me what can be done about it.
ODO reading 21,000km
Thanks

Hello Ankit, You have just encountered an engine seizure. I assume you were running on original bore and piston all this 21000 kms and the engine is fully run in. So this seizure could mostly be due to lack of lubrication. How were your driving while this seizure happened?

Take it to a mechanic and get the pump and oil circulation checked. And you will have to go for a new piston and rings if the cylinder could be re-bored. Else buy a complete cylinder and piston kit. Mechanic would be able to take a call if the crank and connecting rod bearings need to be replaced or not.

[The Great]

Originally Posted by ankit.rattan

Guys please advise me on this, it will be of great help.
The other day i was riding my RE Cl 500, when suddenly there was a loud squiking sound and the engine stopped. I tried kick starting but could not start as the kick was totally jammed. Please suggest me what can be done about it.
ODO reading 21,000km
Thanks

What is the maintenance history of the bike, have you checked the oil level regularly ?

I suspect an engine seizure here, if so then you might have to change the engine cylinder and piston kit.

It might also be bad fueling or maybe the injectors are clogged due to dirt.

Just read the post above me ... seems he posted before me with the same suggestion while i was typing !!

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ankit.rattan

Guys please advise me on this, it will be of great help.
The other day i was riding my RE Cl 500, when suddenly there was a loud squiking sound and the engine stopped. I tried kick starting but could not start as the kick was totally jammed. Please suggest me what can be done about it.
ODO reading 21,000km
Thanks

Looks like your motorcycle engine is seized and either the piston or transmission is stuck thereby jamming the kick starter. Do not try to kick start it lest you will damage it further. Show it to a competent mechanic before doing any thing.

[ankit.rattan]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hello Ankit, You have just encountered an engine seizure. I assume you were running on original bore and piston all this 21000 kms and the engine is fully run in. So this seizure could mostly be due to lack of lubrication. How were your driving while this seizure happened?

Take it to a mechanic and get the pump and oil circulation checked. And you will have to go for a new piston and rings if the cylinder could be re-bored. Else buy a complete cylinder and piston kit. Mechanic would be able to take a call if the crank and connecting rod bearings need to be replaced or not.

Thanks a lot for your advice. I ride occasionally around 30-40kms in a week, and had serviced around 2yrs back but the oil level is full. At that time i was riding at about 30km/hr in city traffic when the engine suddenly stopped with a squeaking sound and the kick jamed

[ankit.rattan]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hello Ankit, You have just encountered an engine seizure. I assume you were running on original bore and piston all this 21000 kms and the engine is fully run in. So this seizure could mostly be due to lack of lubrication. How were your driving while this seizure happened?

Take it to a mechanic and get the pump and oil circulation checked. And you will have to go for a new piston and rings if the cylinder could be re-bored. Else buy a complete cylinder and piston kit. Mechanic would be able to take a call if the crank and connecting rod bearings need to be replaced or not.

And what should be the maximum approximate expense if i get the work done from ASC and i have to buy a complete cylinder and piston kit, just asking to have an idea about the budget, thanks.

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by ankit.rattan

Thanks a lot for your advice. I ride occasionally around 30-40kms in a week, and had serviced around 2yrs back but the oil level is full. At that time i was riding at about 30km/hr in city traffic when the engine suddenly stopped with a squeaking sound and the kick jamed

Ankit-You have answered your own question. Two years is a very long time for any oil to maintain it's viscosity even if you were running with the optimum levels. Even Synthetics don't last that long.

[saargoga]

Originally Posted by ankit.rattan

And what should be the maximum approximate expense if i get the work done from ASC and i have to buy a complete cylinder and piston kit, just asking to have an idea about the budget, thanks.

Around 12k including oil change and labor costs.

[DragonHawk]

Yesterday which commuting in city traffic, I witnessed a strange issue in my bike. I was stuck in the traffic jam and I had switched off the ignition. When traffic started moving I switched on the key, fuel pump started priming without any issue but to my shock there was no response from the self starter. I tried again by doing same procedure and still no response and during my third attempt I tried the self simultaneously when fuel pump just started to prim and voila bike started without any problem. I could reproduce this issue once again while I was stuck again in the jam, however after reaching home I couldn`t see this problem and till now self is working as if there was no issue at all.
Folks any pointers for what could have gone wrong here.

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by DragonHawk

Yesterday which commuting in city traffic, I witnessed a strange issue in my bike. I was stuck in the traffic jam and I had switched off the ignition. When traffic started moving I switched on the key, fuel pump started priming without any issue but to my shock there was no response from the self starter. I tried again by doing same procedure and still no response and during my third attempt I tried the self simultaneously when fuel pump just started to prim and voila bike started without any problem. I could reproduce this issue once again while I was stuck again in the jam, however after reaching home I couldn`t see this problem and till now self is working as if there was no issue at all.
Folks any pointers for what could have gone wrong here.

How do you start the bike with the self starter-With the clutch lever pressed as written in the manual?I would suggest you to check-
1-Thumb the the self starter button when you press the clutch lever.
2-Thumb the the self starter button without pressing the clutch lever.

If the self starter works in case two you need to check the neutral switch.