Team-BHP > Motorbikes


Reply
  Search this Thread
3,176,717 views
Old 4th April 2016, 05:04   #3901
Distinguished - BHPian
 
ArizonaJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,836 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark View Post
...

Have taken TR of Carb 500 and EFI and that's why unable to settle with Carb model despite people swearing on it.
Another thing of concern for EFI is dependency on fuel quality. FQ might be fine with your trusted bunk but how would anyone manage on log tours?
Any impurities could easily be passed-on leading to a clogg Injector and you being stranded in the middle of nowhere. Has anyone experienced that and do we have any First-Aid solutions other than towing the vehicle?
Is keeping a spare Injector a possibility, just in case you find yourself surprised?

Thanks Guys!!!
There is no need to carry a replacement fuel injector if you are riding a fuel injected Royal Enfield.

The electric fuel pump on the fuel injected Royal Enfield has a built in fuel filter to prevent harmful sized particles from getting to the fuel injector.

This fuel filter removes any particle larger than 10 microns* (ten millionths of a meter) which is much smaller than the spray orifice in the fuel injector so there is no danger of the fuel injector becoming plugged.

Of course, the filter will not remove water or other fluid contaminants that could cause the engine to misfire but those same things will prevent a engine with a carburetor from running too.

* Filter particle size given in the Royal Enfield Service Manual.
ArizonaJim is offline   (7) Thanks
Old 4th April 2016, 10:09   #3902
J.Ravi
 
Posts: n/a
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark View Post
FQ might be fine with your trusted bunk but how would anyone manage on log tours?
I rode Golden Quadrilateral on my Thunderbird 500 - which has the same efi engine - recently without any problem, whatsoever. The details start from here. My bird consumed 202.56 litres of petrol from different states without any issues.

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-gq-fe.jpg

Last edited by J.Ravi : 4th April 2016 at 10:13.
  (3) Thanks
Old 6th April 2016, 12:23   #3903
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 17
Thanked: 5 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
There is no need to carry a replacement fuel injector if you are riding a fuel injected Royal Enfield.

The electric fuel pump on the fuel injected Royal Enfield has a built in fuel filter to prevent harmful sized particles from getting to the fuel injector.

This fuel filter removes any particle larger than 10 microns* (ten millionths of a meter) which is much smaller than the spray orifice in the fuel injector so there is no danger of the fuel injector becoming plugged.

Of course, the filter will not remove water or other fluid contaminants that could cause the engine to misfire but those same things will prevent a engine with a carburetor from running too.

* Filter particle size given in the Royal Enfield Service Manual.

Should we clean this filter on our own periodically or let the service center do it.

Thanks in advance..
MaverickRD350 is offline  
Old 6th April 2016, 13:00   #3904
BHPian
 
Spark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 96
Thanked: 9 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Ravi View Post
I rode Golden Quadrilateral on my Thunderbird 500 - which has the same efi engine - recently without any problem, whatsoever. The details start from here. My bird consumed 202.56 litres of petrol from different states without any issues.

Attachment 1493882
Hello Sir!
Just went through your beautiful GQ travelogue and - what can I say? All questions put to rest!!
Inspiring and Adventurous Ride.
Surprise you took it personally to have such a long circuit covered single handedly - May be it could have been a group ride for sake of safety and companionship.
But then you seem to be a challenger!!

Simply Great and Thanks you posting your valuable experiences.
Just another Question, if you may please - During these long rides - what's are your average cruse speeds and do you think sustaining long hours at 100/120+
could impact Enfield engines in any way?

Thanks ArizonaJim.
You always seem to have qualified information at your disposal to share. Thanks Mate

Last edited by Spark : 6th April 2016 at 13:29.
Spark is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 6th April 2016, 16:44   #3905
J.Ravi
 
Posts: n/a
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark View Post
Inspiring and Adventurous Ride.
Thanks for the appreciation, Spark.
Quote:
During these long rides - what's are your average cruse speeds
80 to 100 kmph.
Quote:
do you think sustaining long hours at 100/120+ could impact Enfield engines in any way?
I felt more vibrations above 100 kmph, but that won't affect the engine, IMO.
 
Old 6th April 2016, 23:33   #3906
Distinguished - BHPian
 
ArizonaJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,836 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaverickRD350 View Post
Should we clean this filter on our own periodically or let the service center do it.

Thanks in advance..
The fuel pump filter is not replaceable and any attempt to clean it beyond spraying off the debris from its outer surface with petrol will damage it.

This filter is not a service item and I recommend leaving it and the fuel pump alone. Do not even bother trying to wash it off.
The possibility of damaging it or the fuel pump by removing the pump from the fuel tank isn't worth the effort.

I think perhaps some of the fuel available in India may be dirtier than the fuel I buy here in Arizona, USA but I have ridden over 19200 miles (31K km) and my pump and filter which have never been removed are both doing fine.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 6th April 2016 at 23:34.
ArizonaJim is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 7th April 2016, 23:11   #3907
BHPian
 
Abhishek3001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Nagpur
Posts: 152
Thanked: 132 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hello,
My Classic 500 came back from its 9000 km service at Paragon Traders' service centre,Nagpur on Monday,04/04/16, and all is not well

While inspecting the bike the service advisor pointed out that the crank case breather had been rubbing on the chain and should be replaced along with another rubber hose which ran under the tank and had visible cracks along its surface,I agreed.Other than that it was a regular service.

Today,I noticed a rubber tube hanging loose on the left side of the bike,just behind the battery cover.While trying to figure out where it goes I went over on the right side of the bike and lo and behold,I see that the low fuel sensor has been disconnected.I connected the sensor and immediately the low fuel light starts glowing a solid amber,who knows where I could have been stranded after running out of fuel in the middle of nowhere(you see,I have this slight tendency to take 80-100km long detours on my way back from college).
Now,I was a little suspicious to say the least and decided to recheck those rubber tubes which were supposedly replaced during the service because it was dark when I had collected my bike from the service centre.The long rubber hose which ran under the tank seemed fine but surprise surprise the breather was far from fine.
The breather was connected properly to the crankcase but it wasn't connected to the intake manifold like it should have been,it had been rubbing on the chain and dangling lose near the rear wheel contaminating the engine oil with dust and debris for THREE DAYS! :Frustrate
Can someone please tell me,where does that line in the first picture go?
Second picture is of the disconnected fuel level sensor.
Third picture is of the loose crank case breather.
ps-Should I replace the fuel line in the last picture?
Attached Thumbnails
The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160407_184730.jpg  

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160407_185300.jpg  

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160407_185045.jpg  

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160407_184704.jpg  

Abhishek3001 is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 13th April 2016, 08:25   #3908
BHPian
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Thimphu, Bhutan
Posts: 29
Thanked: 60 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hexanerax View Post
BTW , the 18" tyres are suited to the Honda tuff up tubes , available for the Unicorn and those worried about punctures may get some mental comfort from this replacement.
Hi Naren, Could you please share more info on the tuff up tubes? I own a C3 and would like to know if these tubes can help and can be fitted to both front and rear tires. Also, do we get them in Honda showrooms or else where?
Thank you for your time.
Nagato710 is offline  
Old 13th April 2016, 11:46   #3909
BHPian
 
hexanerax's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dehradun / Bangalore
Posts: 69
Thanked: 19 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

The Honda Unicorn uses 18 " rims and used to come with a Tuff-Up sealant filled tube. I have used them in 2011 and 2012. You need to inquire at your local tire dealer or at the Honda Showroom for availability and price. Also note that the newer Classic models moved to a 19 " front rim so please check your rim / tire sizes before buying this expensive tube. Another good option is to procure and fill in a tube sealant like Green Slime in your regular tube.
hexanerax is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 18th April 2016, 23:40   #3910
BHPian
 
johannskaria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MH 12 / KL 08
Posts: 795
Thanked: 2,105 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Can anyone tell me whether the Royal Enfield bikes from 2014 (TB, Classics) have OBD 2 port?
What kind of diagnostic systems do bikes use if otherwise?
johannskaria is offline  
Old 19th April 2016, 02:27   #3911
Distinguished - BHPian
 
ArizonaJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,836 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

No. Royal Enfield does not have OBD 2 or an interface that supports it.

The fuel injected Royal Enfields do have a built in test lead but a scanner is not plugged into it.

Instead, a wire with a male connector attached to it is available so the owner or a mechanic can attach a grounding (earth) wire to it.

Once grounded turning on the ignition switch with a key activates the ECU which in turn causes the MIL light to blink.

The MIL will blink a series of short flashes and long blinks.
There may be several error codes stored so the MIL may blink several different sets of long and short blinks.
Once the error codes have been shown, the computer will repeat the series.

The number of long and short blinks for each error code should be noted and recorded on a piece of paper.

Once that is done, disconnect the ground wire and turn the ignition off. Then check the Service Manual (or here) for an interpretation of the codes.

The following list should be helpful:

ROYAL ENFIELD ERROR CODES

0 LONG, 6 SHORT = THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ERROR
0 LONG, 9 SHORT = MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR ERROR
1 LONG, 1 SHORT = OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR ERROR
1 LONG, 7 SHORT = 02 SENSOR CIRCUIT ERROR (WHEN FITTED)
4 LONG, 5 SHORT = O2 SENSOR HEATER ERROR (WHEN FITTED)
1 LONG, 5 SHORT = ROLL OVER SENSOR ERROR
3 LONG, 3 SHORT = FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT ERROR
3 LONG, 7 SHORT = IGNITION COIL ERROR
4 LONG, 1 SHORT = FUEL PUMP ERROR
6 LONG, 6 SHORT = CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ERROR

It should be noted that many times when people find these code errors it is the wiring electrical connector to the sensor that has become unplugged.
A fault with the actual sensor is quite rare.

In addition to these codes, some of the Royal Enfield repair shops also have a diagnostic computer that can be plugged directly into the ECU to obtain additional information but these cost far more than the average owner (or repair shop) would normally want to spend.
The high cost and limited use for these diagnostic computers, plus the built in self diagnostic MIL flashes being easily accessible on every fuel injected Royal Enfield results in few places having them.

Hopefully this has answered the question about OBD 2 tests.
ArizonaJim is offline   (4) Thanks
Old 29th April 2016, 11:08   #3912
BHPian
 
Exhaust_Note's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 213
Thanked: 41 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hello Everyone,

I need some help here. I just replaced the front fork oil seals at a FNG (Since the Service Center was too busy). While riding to office today I felt jerks when the front brakes were applied. On stand still, by jumping the front (Applying front brakes and pushing hard) there is no sound or anything. Byt while riding at around 40, when I apply both brakes, the front kind of jerks (like I am rapidly releasing and pressing the brake effect).

He said that he has changed the "Vati" as front forks was making a "tok - tok" sound when it hit small mounds.

I have requested Saini Motors Margao to take a look. But since they are short of persons, am looking for all pre-preparation and knowledge to ensure I dont have to keep the bike for more than a day. The FNG guy took a whole week to do the job.

Thanks,
Saurab
Exhaust_Note is offline  
Old 17th May 2016, 17:26   #3913
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: London
Posts: 14
Thanked: 11 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hello,
I am facing an issue with the fuse. Mine is a 2010 model Classic 500 and has three 20A fuses. The problem is fuse is getting deformed/melted. All electrical parts are working fine even in this condition. I replaced fuse once and the same thing happened again within a month. What could be the issue and how to do I resolve this?
Attached Thumbnails
The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160515_142055864_hdr.jpg  

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-img_20160515_141946106.jpg  

Mohd Faiz is offline  
Old 18th May 2016, 00:18   #3914
Distinguished - BHPian
 
ArizonaJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 1,200
Thanked: 2,836 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Electrical connections between the terminals of things that use or conduct power must be tight and free of anything that could cause resistance such as oxidation.
If there is resistance at the connection, heat will be created as the current passes thru the joint.

If that fuse came out of the open slot in the first picture, the problem is pretty obvious.

Notice it is discolored. Discoloring is caused by oxidation and the oxides formed are resistant to the flow of electrical power. That is the source of the heat.

While there are chemicals that can remove the oxide they can be difficult to find and aren't without their dangers.
The simpler method is to lightly sand or scrape the oxides off using a very narrow steel blade or a small piece of sandpaper.

This must be done down in the slot as well as at the mouth of the connection and the last thing you would want to do while doing this is to spread the surfaces of the connector further apart than they are.

In other words, the steel blade must be thinner than the thickness of the connectors on the fuse.

If you don't feel qualified to do this task, find a good mechanic or someone who specializes in working with electrical equipment to do the job.

If the connection is making good contact with the terminals on the fuse, your heating and melting problem should go away.

PS: If the above fix is not possible, repeatedly plugging in and unplugging the fuse can scrape off the surface oxidation. Be sure to push it straight in and pull it straight out.
Again, you don't want to bend the small brass connectors in the fuse box. They must be tight with the fuses connectors to assure a low temperature flow of power.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 18th May 2016 at 00:21.
ArizonaJim is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 18th May 2016, 14:19   #3915
//M
Distinguished - BHPian
 
//M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 6,174
Thanked: 22,804 Times
Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I am planning to get new set of tyres for my Classic 500 before the monsoons start in another month or so. I know there are lot of options in Ceat, MRF, etc but I am a little confused as to which one should I go for.

I don't really need off-road tyres, a road-based tyre set with enough grip to ride around the Western Ghats during the monsoons will do just fine.

Any pointers would be really useful !
//M is offline  
Reply

Most Viewed
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks