[admn_nur]

I own a Classic 500 BS3. It has an AEW Goldstar aftermarket exhaust installed on it. I recently got its throttle body cleaned at a FNG. After doing that, whenever I ride the bike, it gives out a loud (read thundering) pop almost every time when I let go of the throttle or use up the entire rev band. It did not have such a problem before aside the occasional pops which weren't as deafening as these. What might be the problem? Will installing a DB killer to the exhaust help in any way?

[vaisakhr]

Anybody has fuse box diagram for Classic 500 showing the details of fuses? Couldn't find it in the manual. I had replaced a 10A fuse, but doesn't know which circuit.

[KA19Rao]

Hi, Bhpians I needed a price check on the cost of an EFI throttle body. I am being quoted 12k for an OEM spare. I am not getting any reliable leads online would be gratefully if someone here can confirm if it’s accurate or not.
Cheers

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by admn_nur

I own a Classic 500 BS3. It has an AEW Goldstar aftermarket exhaust installed on it. I recently got its throttle body cleaned at a FNG. After doing that, whenever I ride the bike, it gives out a loud (read thundering) pop almost every time when I let go of the throttle or use up the entire rev band. It did not have such a problem before aside the occasional pops which weren't as deafening as these. What might be the problem? Will installing a DB killer to the exhaust help in any way?

You have air leak if the after fire pops were not there before throttle body cleaning. Get it checked of air leak.

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by vaisakhr

Anybody has fuse box diagram for Classic 500 showing the details of fuses? Couldn't find it in the manual. I had replaced a 10A fuse, but doesn't know which circuit.

See if these diagram helps.

[sudipta]

This one is just for the memory of 10 years with my Classic Chrome. I can't thank T-BHP enough for the immense information and support I got during this period. I think this one will be with me all the way. A reference picture of the restoration (engine case, head and front shocks) which was done over many weeks during the lockdown and rains.

[sudipta]

Looking for suggestions here. I am still on my stock MRF Zapper Tyre with around 20k odometer. Off-late, I feel slipping of rear wheels while powering out of the bend. Is it because of the tyre which may need a change now?

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by sudipta

This one is just for the memory of 10 years with my Classic Chrome.

Originally Posted by sudipta

Looking for suggestions here. I am still on my stock MRF Zapper Tyre with around 20k odometer. Off-late, I feel slipping of rear wheels while powering out of the bend. Is it because of the tyre which may need a change now?

sudipta, are you still running the MRF Zapper tires that came with the bike? If yes, then please change them at the earliest. They are well beyond their expected life span.

If not, please share some pictures of the front and rear tire. Als, do share details of the manufacturing date on the tire. That can help us give you the right suggestions.

[sudipta]

Yes, still the same tyres that came with the bike. What will be the best replacement?

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by sudipta

Yes, still the same tyres that came with the bike. What will be the best replacement?

The same MRFs, Ceat Zoom, Apollo Actigrip these are the ones that you should check. You used to get Michelin Sirac (made by TVS), not sure if they're still available!

Ride safe,
surjaonwheelz

[jobinjv]

The other day while replacing the stator coil, i noticed that the inside of the case was all cracked. Is this natural, its a very sparingly used bike, 2010 model.

[ReventonLover]

Hello everyone.

I own a 2016 BS3 Classic 500 model. For a few months now, I have noticed that the gear shifts are relatively smooth after changing the oil and remain smooth up to a 1000 odd kilometers. Post that the gear shifting becomes very difficult and shifting to neutral also becomes a cumbersome task. (Maybe related) the clutch also doesn't disengage completely even after all the depressing the clutch lever completely and tightening the clutch to the maximum possible limit. Any help is this regard would be highly helpful. Would also love to get some recommendations for good RE service centers (OEM/otherwise) in Hyderabad to check and rectify the issues.

Additionally, I am also planning to change the front forks and cushions as the current ones fail miserably to damp any niggles on the road. Have to change the tyres as well. Any suggestions on the same are also welcome! Cheers!

[ReventonLover]

Originally Posted by KA19Rao

Hi, Bhpians I needed a price check on the cost of an EFI throttle body. I am being quoted 12k for an OEM spare. I am not getting any reliable leads online would be gratefully if someone here can confirm if it’s accurate or not.
Cheers

Hi. Your quote is more or less accurate as a pump replacement (approximately 4 years back) had set me back by Rs. 13.5k. A cheaper alternative (that was suggested to me back then) was to have it replaced with the fuel pump of a Chevrolet Beat. Absolutely not sure how that works out though. This one has a 5 bolt plate, so may be hard to come by.

[Lasagna59]

Hello there, I am Ekam from punjab and i've been a reader of this forum for quite sometime. And now I have come here seeking help.

I own a 2014 BS3 Classic 500. It was bought used and the previous owner has had it converted from EFI to a carb. Ownership of this has been a hit and miss from me, although it has never let me stranded, but reliability has been somewhat bad.

The problem I am now facing is, I feel the bike feels stressed, like it needs more rpms for not that much speed. Earlier I was able to cruise comfortably a 70-80 with a pillion whereas now it needs much more revs to even cross 60 while riding solo. I have had spark plugs changed, carb cleaned, service done on 12th Jan 23, the air filter is cleaned, the carb tuned by my local mech (I am not quite sure if this was properly tuned or not). I know this isnt a sports bike by any means but it takes a lot out of the engine to get till 30kmph in 2nd gear, which it earlier didnt. There is also a ticking noise coming from the timing gear which my mech says will go away after a few kms and it hasnt. The decompressor sound in the morning has increased during cold starts despite the weather having warmed up and it takes a lot many kicks to start, the self start also doesnt help much (the battery was repalced last month).

There is an air leakage at the bend-exhaust join due to terrible fitment by the previous owner which is to be solved as i will be replacing it with a slash cut from RE itself. I will also be replacing the rubber piece between the carb and the engine head as it has also developed cracks like what happened with @Aniruddha_Ch.

I really need this issue solved and would appreciate any advice. If it is of any help, I am a 6'4" 88kg solo rider which I thought I should mention as its not the average and i dont think my weight is slowing the bike down but you never know. Please excuse if any mistakes are there in the formatting or language as this is my first proper post. Thanks!

[Gordon]

I recently serviced my 2015 Classic 500 at the service center and noticed post service, I can hear the tappets. I couldn't hear anything before service, but now its very clear. Service center guys mentioned that they did not open anything and only drained and refilled the oil. Oil used was the standard oil (Semi Synthetic RE 15W50 I believe). They claim that the noise is usual.

Any opinions?

Originally Posted by Lasagna59

There is an air leakage at the bend-exhaust join due to terrible fitment by the previous owner which is to be solved as i will be replacing it with a slash cut from RE itself. I will also be replacing the rubber piece between the carb and the engine head as it has also developed cracks like what happened with @Aniruddha_Ch.

When you accelerate do you see loss in performance or does the bike sound okay but doesn't move as quick? If the rubber manifold between the engine and carb has a leak, you'd have terrible performance with misfiring and the feeling of starvation.

If the bike sounds fine, but doesn't move as fast as it sounds, then probably could be the clutch.