[outofthebox]

Originally Posted by argchoff

I have used the CL500 for 3 years. The spring seat gets very uncomfortable within an hour of riding. Because the springs are at the rear of the seat, its the rear part of the seat that presses down over bumps which is bad for the lower back in the long run though one may not feel it.
Lastly the brakes are useless and so is the alternator, i have changed batteries already. Although strangely i like the bike, owning it has been nothing short of a headache

I have a CL500 too and have done about 10k worth of weekend riding in last 4 years. My ownership experience has been nothing but sheer pleasure. As for uncomfy seats and battery issues - I'll have you know that many if not all $$$$ superbikes have those issues too. OEM seat and suspensions are typically the first to get upgraded. The general expectation of a owner of a speciality bike is to make performance and reliability upgrades to suit one's riding style. This is part of the fun and goes a long way towards a satisfying ownership experience.

I do agree that the rear drum brakes suck. At one point in time I was contemplating upgrading front disc to Brembos. But after upgrading my tyres to Pirelli Sports Demon I have not found the braking to be lacking in any significant way, though it's still not as good as the stock Continental GT.

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by adnaps

I have a fairly newbie query. Can someone clarify if the OE RE ECU can automatically accommodate free flow exhausts ? Else other than changing to carb, what are the alternatives to avoid damaging the engine /valves on a EFI engine (500CC) ?

No it can not. The reason is that ECU on C5 relies on MAP sensor and temp sensor instead of MAF sensor. So it will relate to atmospheric pressure instead of flow of intake.

[argchoff]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

No it can not. The reason is that ECU on C5 relies on MAP sensor and temp sensor instead of MAF sensor. So it will relate to atmospheric pressure instead of flow of intake.

I suppose putting a KN filter along with freeflow exhaust wont help either? I have changed so far to Semi synthetic oil, NGK iridium spark plugs, KN filter with upswept exhaust, but did not find ANY improvement in the bike HP or performance.

[ArizonaJim]

In my opinion, Royal Enfield has already optimized the performance of the new UCE motorcycles so there is little to gain in power by changing the inlet air filter or exhaust.

For instance, if one compares the power rating for the Iron Barrel 500cc engine with the EFI 500cc they will find the horsepower of the new engine has been increased almost 30%. IMO, that is a lot of optimizing.

I am not saying that changing the silencer has no benefit.

The OEM silencer from my 2011 500cc Royal Enfield weighs 13 pounds (5.91 kg).
Many of the aftermarket silencers weigh around 5 pounds (2.27 kg) so replacing the original with an aftermarket unit can reduce the total motorcycle weight 8 pounds (3.64 kg). That is roughly a 2 percent improvement.

Of course the sound difference may or may not be an improvement depending on what you like.

One note about changing the silencer:
Changing it to a free flow type may increase the maximum horsepower slightly, but at the same time, because it changes the overall balance of the exhaust system it may actually reduce the low/mid range power.

As most riding is at speeds that use low/mid range power, many will notice a loss of performance.

Then, there is always the psychological perspective: "It's a lot louder so it MUST be making a LOT MORE POWER."

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by argchoff

I suppose putting a KN filter along with freeflow exhaust wont help either? I have changed so far to Semi synthetic oil, NGK iridium spark plugs, KN filter with upswept exhaust, but did not find ANY improvement in the bike HP or performance.

If you want to see improvement then stick to every thing stock and just use fully synthetic oil 300v.

[raghu.t.k]

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Last night had one more learning regarding my classic 500. If the battery is weak Change, else you might be stranded
....

Then had to resort a another brand, which I have not even heard of - Poweron from kusalava batteries at a price of 3k, which I understand is much on the higher side. The justification given was that these are sealed maintenace free, and hence more costlier than Exide..

BTW any one in India heard of this battery and any idea how long they stay?

Decided to ditch this stuff and take the learning. Paid 3k for this junk in Jan this year. Now got a new Exide 14AH at 2.5K(still cant digest the fact that I paid 3k for an unkown brand, though it was necessary to move the stuff).

The starting was getting extremely painful, and it never had the juice to power-up the self starter motor. Let me see how long this new Exide lasts, with decent rides each time (Avg of 20+kms / ride), and less of self starter motor(never used it other than for testing it!!).

[outofthebox]

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Let me see how long this new Exide lasts, with decent rides each time (Avg of 20+kms / ride), and less of self starter motor(never used it other than for testing it!!).

Have gone through 3 battery changes (1 Amaron, 2 Exides) in 4 years on my ~10k KM CL500. Mostly due to my erratic riding patterns - months of inactivity due to work & other commitments, (sometimes due to weather). My last battery change is ~7 months & going well, probably the same Exide as you (cheaper of the two Exide options).

I also swapped all power consuming bulbs with LED versions (headlight, brake light/tail lamp, trafficators, pilot lamps and console lights).

My advice for you - invest in a battery charger and a battery volt meter and monitor the voltage regularly and use your bike normally. Never let it fall below 12V. I learnt it the hard way that even riding a Bullet regularly is no long term guarantee for a fully charged and well performing battery.

I use a Maypole charger and self installed this to my CL500 (12V socket and a battery voltmeter):

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The new UCE engines use hydraulic valve lifters which require no adjustment.
As no adjustment is required the push rods are solid, non-adjustable items. There is also nothing on the rocker arms to adjust.

If the hydraulic valve lifters fail (which almost never happens) or if they do not receive the necessary oil pressure to keep them pumped up they will create a clatter that is so loud no one in their right mind would allow the engine to continue to run.

This "low oil pressure" condition could be caused by a lack of oil in the engine or a failure of the oil pump drive gear.
It also could be caused if the right side cover for the engine has been removed and replaced by someone using a thick layer of paste like gasket material.

Excessive gasket sealing pastes can block the oil transfer hole running between the sidecover and the engine case. If the transfer hole is blocked, oil will not be able to get to the hydraulic valve lifters or to the rocker arms.

ArizonaJim,

I faced the "low oil pressure" condition yesterday on the way back from a ride. The hydraulic valve lifters on my UCE 500 caused a deafening clatter. Closer inspection showed that the O ring fitted to the oil pump (output end) feeding engine oil to lifters (via the oil filter) had slipped away.

The drop in oil pressure caused quite a din but thankfully without causing the engine to seize.

Has anyone faced this before?

Thanks.

[raghu.t.k]

This morning noticed that the lock on the battery compartment had fallen off, thanks to the quality of Chennai roads. I am not sure how this could have happened!!

Also noticed that the locks on all the side compartments opens up with a little force. Disappointed with their quality. Any suggestions on how this can be remedied ?

[nasirkaka]

Guys, After 5 years of love and hate relationship with my C5, i have decided to part ways.

I have hardly been using the bike in the last few months, as the Duke 390 is the first choice for all my daily commute and long tours too. I run the C5 occasionally to keep the battery, chain etc going, but not been doing justice to it. After getting used to the 390, the C5 feels heavy, sluggish, bulky, with very average handling and braking. ALso, an upgrade plan is brewing within my wish list for which the C5 will have to make way.

Just uploaded the ad in the classifieds section, in case any of your friends, etc are interested. Price mentioned is slightly negotiable. Cheers

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

This morning noticed that the lock on the battery compartment had fallen off, thanks to the quality of Chennai roads. I am not sure how this could have happened!!

Also noticed that the locks on all the side compartments opens up with a little force. Disappointed with their quality. Any suggestions on how this can be remedied ?

As you said, this is one crappy RE spare part. The replacement lock for battery compartment will unlock with any key and doesn't really ensure safety. Also I have seen brand new locks giving away while the mechanic tries to fit it.
My suggestion would be to look for an universal tool / glove box lock used in Jeeps / Ambassador / etc. You will have to carry an extra key (without "Royal Enfield" stamped on it).

[raghu.t.k]

Originally Posted by ilangop

As you said, this is one crappy RE spare part. The replacement lock for battery compartment will unlock with any key and doesn't really ensure safety. Also I have seen brand new locks giving away while the mechanic tries to fit it.
My suggestion would be to look for an universal tool / glove box lock used in Jeeps / Ambassador / etc. You will have to carry an extra key (without "Royal Enfield" stamped on it).

Let me check whats available this weekend. Would we need to modify the holes on either end if we need to fit a universal glove box lock ?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Let me check whats available this weekend. Would we need to modify the holes on either end if we need to fit a universal glove box lock ?

Rather get into a shop and see for yourselves a few models and select the most suitable one that fits with least modification. That's what I would do.

[Hammer & Anvil]

I need to change the bush on the rear shock to put in a bush thats compatible to the RE Classic 500.
The present sleeve is too large in dia- and needs to be narrowed.
Can someone tell me if i can buy replacement bushes for the rear shocks AND that where it can be done in Mumbai.
Thanks.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

For instance, if one compares the power rating for the Iron Barrel 500cc engine with the EFI 500cc they will find the horsepower of the new engine has been increased almost 30%. IMO, that is a lot of optimizing.

Jim, the old cast iron Std 500 was 22 bhp. The new UCE 500 is 27 bhp.

That's an increase of a little over 20%.

More importantly, its all on paper.

Just this weekend I out-dragged (and out-climbed) a 5-speed UCE 535 cc GT Continental (29+ bhp on paper) with my 13 year old 4-speed on-paper 22 bhp cast iron Std 500.

And my 500 is bone stock now, with just a Goldie exhaust. And none of us baby our Bullets on rides. Its always WOT, each gear.

P.S. The Bullet on the extreme right (with the plastic fly mudguards) is a 1986 cast iron 350 which stays with the 500s in the pack.

All respect to the new UCEs, but they are nowhere close to being faster (leave alone by 20-30%) than the old girls.