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Old 1st September 2010, 12:28   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfire_9 View Post
Hey navin,

I would reiterate what Sankar has said & that region (marked as no.2) is above the exhaust valve & well outside the combustion chamber. Maybe all you see there, are deposits accumulated over time.

When I suggested TIG welding, it was only to suggest a way of repairing any sort of a crack, irrespective of where it is in the cylinder head. I do think your worries would be put to rest by the bend pipe adjustment, but just in case you still need to get the head opened & you do find a crack somewhere, get it repaired by TIG.

Take care.

Ride safe.
Hi Blackfire,

I had took the bike to the mech this week and he suggested some sort of argon welding as there is indeed a crack somewhere in the head, so he said argon welding needs to be done. But i dont know if this will work? how effective will this weld be and will it solve the issue?

Regards,
Navin

Last edited by navin_v8 : 1st September 2010 at 12:29. Reason: spelling mistake
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Old 2nd September 2010, 12:01   #32
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^^ Hey navin,

Your mechanic is talking about the same thing, as TIG welding or the more common MIG welding is known in layman terms as Argon or Helium welding. Argon or Helium are the inert gases used in the welding process to shield the weld being done from any contaminants. These gases create a cover over the weld during the process so that no contaminants like oxygen, or CO2 can weaken the weld.

These welds are much stronger than conventional welds & bind a lot better. I am certain that your mechanic is talking about MIG & not TIG as MIG is faster & less complex. Get it done & see how it works. Let us know the updates.

Also, what about the bend pipe leak, was there any leak at all from there?

Ride safe, take care.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:46. Reason: Post edited to remove entire quoted post. Thanks
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Old 2nd September 2010, 15:15   #33
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If there is indeed a leak near the silencer mouth, why should it affect the engine performance? The exhaust gases come out of the valve and then through the silencer. So its the valves that should be properly sealed and not have a leak, isn't it?
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Old 3rd September 2010, 12:20   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfire_9 View Post
Hey navin,

Your mechanic is talking about the same thing, as TIG welding or the more common MIG welding is known in layman terms as Argon or Helium welding. Argon or Helium are the inert gases used in the welding process to shield the weld being done from any contaminants. These gases create a cover over the weld during the process so that no contaminants like oxygen, or CO2 can weaken the weld.

These welds are much stronger than conventional welds & bind a lot better. I am certain that your mechanic is talking about MIG & not TIG as MIG is faster & less complex. Get it done & see how it works. Let us know the updates.

Also, what about the bend pipe leak, was there any leak at all from there?

Ride safe, take care.
Hi Blackfire,

I have decided to give the bike to the mech for argon welding the crack inside the cylinder head.

The bend pipe leak is also there as stated by sankar that the cylinder head hole becomes oval leading to air leaks, that problem will be taken care of by inserting a thin piece of metal to plug the escaping air.

Regards,
Navin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
If there is indeed a leak near the silencer mouth, why should it affect the engine performance? The exhaust gases come out of the valve and then through the silencer. So its the valves that should be properly sealed and not have a leak, isn't it?
Hey gordon,

I will have to check on that with the mech but as Sankar has stated before abt the cylinder head hole where the silencer meets the head becomes oval over time resulting in air leak has to be checked as well.

I will also ask the mech to check the valves as mentioned by you.

Regards,
Navin

Note from the Team-BHP Support Team : Please use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts, instead of creating another back-to-back post.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:47. Reason: Please take a look at the mod note that has been added to the end of your post.
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Old 3rd September 2010, 14:10   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
If there is indeed a leak near the silencer mouth, why should it affect the engine performance? The exhaust gases come out of the valve and then through the silencer. So its the valves that should be properly sealed and not have a leak, isn't it?
Hey gordon,

Performance won't be affected much as long as the leak in question is a minor one, else it would. If the leak is at a position, or is big enough in size to alter the dynamics of the exhaust system, it would to an extent affect the performance. Suppose the leak is big enough, it would be a situation similar to not having a bend pipe installed & a lower back pressure. Also, a leak/crack is a weak link, & it can become weaker due to the pressures existing inside the combustion chamber. I have not seen it in Bullets, but in my uncle's Maruti 800, the head developed a crack & it grew over time due to the same reason.

Ride safe, take care.
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Old 4th September 2010, 13:57   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster View Post
here is my problem.

can i change the gasket my self or should i do it my self?
There is more to than meets the eye. Changing of gasket needs proper understanding, technique and tools. Get it done by an experienced mech. It will hardly take him 30-40 minutes and the job would be done far better. Use only genuine spares.

Note from the Team-BHP Support Staff: Kindly remove images and video links from original post if quoting a reply. This causes inconvenience to the dial-up users.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:49. Reason: Please take a look at the mod note that has been added to the end of your post.
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Old 7th September 2010, 21:12   #37
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Hey Guys,

There is a new problem that has cropped up now, the decompressor on my bike is not working i guess, bcoz the kick start lever has become soft and it doesnt stop like it usually should with little pressure without engaging the decompressor lever the kick start lever completes its cycle. The bike starts fine and runs fine.

I observe the ammeter and the needle moves to negative but i can still kick without using the decompressor.

Can u guyz advice on this problem.

Thanks in advance,
Navin.
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Old 8th September 2010, 08:57   #38
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Looks like the clutch is not adjusted properly. Do have have enough play in the clutch lever? I think its fully closed up, making the engine free.
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Old 8th September 2010, 11:36   #39
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Hey guyz,

My mech is of the opinion that it might be bcoz of less engine oil and some oil needs to be added, but how can engine oil affect the working of the decompressor.

I am very confused as the bike runs well after starting even without using the decompressor. Else in normal conditions even if you stand on the kick lever with all ur weight it wont move down but it is surprising now that the decompressor is not required while kicking. Help
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Old 8th September 2010, 12:34   #40
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Did this problem occur gradually or happened all of a sudden?

If it is a problem with the decomp valve, then you should hear gases exiting from the decomp valve area after you start the engine. Any such sounds?

Else, god forbid it is, this can be due to worn out valves or piston rings. I had the same problem, this aggravates after the engine becomes hot after a long ride. The problem was with the valves, got it replaced and now my bike runs like a charm.
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Old 8th September 2010, 13:31   #41
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^^ Hi jingaboysr,

This problem has occured all of a sudden earlier it was working fine also the bike was stationary for last 3 weeks as i was unable to ride it. Yes i can hear that sound when the engine is working but it might not be because of decompressor valve as there is a leak somewhere inside the head as mentioned in this thread, so am not sure abt the sound.

I think in this case the valves are the culprit btw how much were you charged for the new valves.

Regards,
Navin

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:50. Reason: Edited to remove entire quoted post.
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Old 8th September 2010, 13:50   #42
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You would not want to hear how much i paid for the valve set. Mine's a 500 and it has a different set of valves, RE has stopped production and i paid through my nose to get a genuine one from old stocks.

I still cannot digest the air leak from head story, AFAIK the only thing that can leak from the head is oil. I have plenty of oil leaking from the head area, thanks to a small crack in head (I'll post the pics soon). Waiting for the next service interval to get it welded.

One other possibility is that the decomp valve is not closing properly, either due to soot or due to the spring, you can try decompressing while revving the engine to remove the soot from the decomp valve. Just a suggestion.

-Rishi

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Old 8th September 2010, 15:56   #43
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^^ Hey Rishi,

I am still not sure about the crack in the cylinder head, lots of assumptions anyways have decided to open it up and do an argon welding after sometime.

I will be trying the option of decompressing while revving today lemme se if this solves the problem.

I will post tmrw about the results.

Navin.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:51. Reason: Post edited to remove entire quoted post. Thanks
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Old 8th September 2010, 19:15   #44
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^^ Hey navin,

You can also check the area on the head surrounding the decompressor valve, it would become dark due to the leak.

Also, if you can hear that sound, it surely is from the decompressor, the sound is something like "fush fush". Also check the other side, where the spark plug is screwed in (though any problem is highly unlikely as it usually happens when the grooves are destroyed).

Also, for the leak in the head, it shouldn't be an air leak. As previously stated by others as well, & again after looking at the pictures you posted, it looks highly unlikely that any combustion gases can leak from that area.

Ride safe.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:52. Reason: Post edited to remove entire quoted post. Thanks
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Old 9th September 2010, 10:14   #45
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^^ Hey Blackfire,

The sound defined by you comes when the engine is running, i will check the area stated by you near the decomp valve. I tried to start the bike yesterday to try one of the techniques to remove the soot from the decomp valve by revving the engine and pressing the decomp lever simultaneously. But the bike never started i kicked and kicked for 15 mins but it refused to start.

Last edited by .anshuman : 13th September 2010 at 10:52. Reason: Post edited to remove entire quoted post. Thanks
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