Team-BHP - My Yamaha RX100 restoration thread - A tribute to my childhood crush
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@Pramod: Few things:-
Inspect chain cover and if possible get a new one. Check the rear shox if it is in condition. Try to get OE RX100 seat which is very comfortable. Also, change the chain sprocket for smooth ride. Add mirrors to complete the look!
Go for good set of tyres.
With regards to Lock set, the complete one come about 550 bucks (when I bought in 2009). This included, side lock, ignition, helmet lock just below pillion seat and petrol lock.

Quote:

The sticker is an add on, it still has orignal escorts speedo and shocks which indecate its from the 80s, i could be wrong here, As far as the oil pump goes, i put oil along with the fuel, not taking any chances :D, the oil pump will be inspected throughly when the engine overhaul is done.

If you add oil with the fuel (and the oil pump is also working) will you have excessive smoke and the decarb intervals would increase ?
RX experts is this OK ? If this is OK i too plan to follow as this is much SAFER than havin a blown engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rxpaul (Post 2196184)
If you add oil with the fuel (and the oil pump is also working) will you have excessive smoke and the decarb intervals would increase ?
RX experts is this OK ? If this is OK i too plan to follow as this is much SAFER than havin a blown engine.

You will need to regularly check the oil pump if it is working. Apart from that you might want to add 10ml of oil just to be on the safe side.

Remember: We should either pre-mix or autolube. If you want to do both, then maintain the company recommended proposition of 30ml /litre.

I use autolube(oil pump) for my RX. However, while going on a long ride, will add 10ml oil to be on safe side.

Belated congratulations, Pramod.

From the regn plate I believe it is from the late 80's and not a 1991 or 1992 model.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds (Post 2195869)
@Pramod: Few things:-
Inspect chain cover and if possible get a new one. Check the rear shox if it is in condition. Try to get OE RX100 seat which is very comfortable. Also, change the chain sprocket for smooth ride. Add mirrors to complete the look!
Go for good set of tyres.
With regards to Lock set, the complete one come about 550 bucks (when I bought in 2009). This included, side lock, ignition, helmet lock just below pillion seat and petrol lock.

Sriram, i dont think i understand what you meant. Let me be little dumb to gets my doubts cleared :D.

The chain cover is intact, no dents or bends and absolutely no rust. Do i still need to replace it? About the sprocket, i get a huge thud sound some times in the morning while engaging the first gear, do you think i should replace it? I have done a max of 100kms on it so far after i got it. I thought i have original rx 100 seats, is it not so? the seat is as good as new no tears etc. The lock set costs 350 without the helmet lock and its of the minda make and has the new types of keys, like i posted a couple of pages back. I wanted a rx 135 tool box, do you think it would be a straight fit? The petrol lid is little differently colored and not a shiny chrome.. more like a dull finish, i thought of giving that for electro plating.

I am putting 10 ML of oil per liter of petrol and the 2t reservoir is dry as of now so i don't think more 2 t will mix in it, apart from smoke the pistons will also slip if more 2t is added correct?


PS: I have sent you couple of mails, would you reply and let me know what you want me to do? I might be there this Sunday/Monday.

Pramod

Quote:

Originally Posted by pramodkumar (Post 2197527)
I wanted a rx 135 tool box, do you think it would be a straight fit?

Pramod, RX135 tool box is a direct fit. I've added the same when I bought a '90 model RX100. But the box was not an OEM.

Regards,
Jose.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pramodkumar (Post 2197527)
Sriram, i dont think i understand what you meant. Let me be little dumb to gets my doubts cleared :D.

The chain cover is intact, no dents or bends and absolutely no rust. Do i still need to replace it? About the sprocket, i get a huge thud sound some times in the morning while engaging the first gear, do you think i should replace it? I have done a max of 100kms on it so far after i got it. I thought i have original rx 100 seats, is it not so? the seat is as good as new no tears etc. The lock set costs 350 without the helmet lock and its of the minda make and has the new types of keys, like i posted a couple of pages back. I wanted a rx 135 tool box, do you think it would be a straight fit? The petrol lid is little differently colored and not a shiny chrome.. more like a dull finish, i thought of giving that for electro plating.

I am putting 10 ML of oil per liter of petrol and the 2t reservoir is dry as of now so i don't think more 2 t will mix in it, apart from smoke the pistons will also slip if more 2t is added correct?


PS: I have sent you couple of mails, would you reply and let me know what you want me to do? I might be there this Sunday/Monday.

Pramod

My point is, while restoring the bike, it is equally looked into some new cosmetic outlook. Chain cover might not have dents or scratches, however, giving a new shiny look would be nice.
Sprockets: I would suggest you to take a look at the sprockets if worn out and duly change both front and back wheel bearings. The front wheel comes with one bearings (wheel bearings) and rear with two (wheel bearings and sprocket bearings). To be sure of your chain, would suggest to go for complete new Chain sprocket kit to give a new lease of life.

When you take out the bike in the morning, follow few steps to see if the thud sounds still emits when you engage the 1st gear:

1. Pump the clutch (say 4-5 time)
2. Move a bit from the stranded position before you kick start.
3. One or two empty kicks before you switch on ignition.
4. Turn on the ignition and fuel tap, kick start the bike
5. When you engage the first gear, it should not give some huge sound/ jerk. It should rather be smooth.

I would think it is because of the stationary position of the vehicle for a long time and thus gear box oil need some lube on the cogs for smooth shift.gear box might have got the oil dripped off to the bottom.

If you are running on Pre-mix, recommended is 30ml/liter. If you want to run on oil pump, then I would suggest you to check at regular intervals if it is working. Also, you might want to add some oil on to the tank to reduce the risk of corrosion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds (Post 2198063)
My point is, while restoring the bike, it is equally looked into some new cosmetic outlook. Chain cover might not have dents or scratches, however, giving a new shiny look would be nice.
Sprockets: I would suggest you to take a look at the sprockets if worn out and duly change both front and back wheel bearings. The front wheel comes with one bearings (wheel bearings) and rear with two (wheel bearings and sprocket bearings). To be sure of your chain, would suggest to go for complete new Chain sprocket kit to give a new lease of life.

When you take out the bike in the morning, follow few steps to see if the thud sounds still emits when you engage the 1st gear:

1. Pump the clutch (say 4-5 time)
2. Move a bit from the stranded position before you kick start.
3. One or two empty kicks before you switch on ignition.
4. Turn on the ignition and fuel tap, kick start the bike
5. When you engage the first gear, it should not give some huge sound/ jerk. It should rather be smooth.

I would think it is because of the stationary position of the vehicle for a long time and thus gear box oil need some lube on the cogs for smooth shift.gear box might have got the oil dripped off to the bottom.

If you are running on Pre-mix, recommended is 30ml/liter. If you want to run on oil pump, then I would suggest you to check at regular intervals if it is working. Also, you might want to add some oil on to the tank to reduce the risk of corrosion.


I will try All that you have said, but wont excess oil lead to slipping of the pistons? my mech asked me to say 1 petrol and 1 oil, so i assume its 10ml per liter(maybe i am wrong) i will check this next time, thanks for clarifing.


Pramod

Quote:

Originally Posted by pramodkumar (Post 2198824)
my mech asked me to say 1 petrol and 1 oil, so i assume its 10ml per liter(maybe i am wrong)Pramod

I have also heard about 1:1 at the petrol bunk. Again, it's your bike and need to feed at appropriately. It's 30ml/ litre is the direction from the company and widely followed. If the bore is new/rebore, need to add 40ml oil during the run-in period.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pramodkumar (Post 2198824)
I will try All that you have said, but wont excess oil lead to slipping of the pistons? my mech asked me to say 1 petrol and 1 oil, so i assume its 10ml per liter(maybe i am wrong) i will check this next time, thanks for clarifing.


Pramod

@Pramod - I hope you have not ridden too much with this 1:100 ratio. Please use at least 25-30 ml of 2T, there is no such thing as piston slip due to extra 2T oil. The only negatives of adding extra 2T, I am talking like 50-60ml regularly is
1. Excess smoke
2. Clogged silencer(after prolonged use) and associated decarb costs. You will also have lots of oil dripping out of exhaust.

30ml should do for normal use, if you are planning to rip on a daily basis, add an extra 50ml to a full tank of petrol.

Remember 2T is the most vital thing for a 2 stroke. Without it, all you will be left is lots of metal that makes a cacophony.

For the thud issue in the morning, it is common to a lot of RX's. I suspect it is due to a sticky clutch, please pump the clutch 5-6 times after starting the engine(as mentioned in the previous post) and also kick two or three times with ignition off, just to get the parts moving. Please let us know if this helps.

Quote:

You will need to regularly check the oil pump if it is working. Apart from that you might want to add 10ml of oil just to be on the safe side.

Just HOW do i check /test if the oil pump is working ? I took out my 82' RX from cold storage in Dec 2010 and am using her for short rides. I noticed today that even when revved hard 'she' is not emitting any smoke....this looks fishy for a 2 stroke. I am not finding much difference in pickup,etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rxpaul (Post 2203069)
Just HOW do i check /test if the oil pump is working ? I took out my 82' RX from cold storage in Dec 2010 and am using her for short rides. I noticed today that even when revved hard 'she' is not emitting any smoke....this looks fishy for a 2 stroke. I am not finding much difference in pickup,etc.


Its a pump so should have a sucking action. disconnect the 2T pipe and see if its sucking, else add some 2T to the tank to be on the safer side, take it to a mech and find out if its in order.

Pramod

Finally did some work today on the bike.

Replaced the kicker milling assy
front left pilot lamp wiring loom
Fixed the handle lock
fixed the horn DIY :D
Replaced all the bulbs in the pilot lamp

Also started to mix higher concentration of 2T almost 30 ML per liter, the bike is now good, handles well, will get the engine overhauled next month followed by the suspension overhaul and paintjob, will keep you guys posted on the updates.

Pramod

Finally got the RC book today, its a funny book :D, the HP is 1 BHP as per the book. And the color says Grey, can someone post a picture of how grey should look like in and RX 100? Also the engine and chassis number are one and the same, will that pose any problems? The RC expired in 2004, what is the procedure of getting a duplicate RC without change of name/ownership. As this is my cousins bike i would love to keep it single owner. Please reply.

As far as the restoration goes the bike gets a new part almost everyday. I have ordered the headlight dome and indicator dome(i guess that is what they are called).

Pramod

Grey RX100

BikePics - 2011 Yamaha RX 100

Engine and chasiss no. are same in my RX also,i think that is the case with all RX100.s ?

One the re-registration is done (after 15 years) you will get a card RC


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