[bluevolt]

Originally Posted by tejus.s

Hi all,

During my latest venture, I had a pretty nasty fall off my bike and wanted to know a few things before going to the SC.

1. Does the fairing come is separate pieces like in an R15 or do I have to replace all the panels?

2. Is there anyway I can reduce the front suspension dive? It's too soft for my liking and does not inspire any confidence in the bends.

Your help/suggestion is much appreciated

Sorry about the fall, hope you were unhurt.

IIRC Fairing do comes in three parts i.e. left, right and center portions. I think you have to replace only those panels which are damaged.

No idea about front suspension but rear suspensions can be adjusted easily.

[tejus.s]

Thanks bluevolt,

I got a few scratches and abrasion but mostly thanks to some riding gear, I am fine after a week's recovery.

Yet to go to the SC regarding the fairing and by the looks of it, only the right part needs replacement. The rear suspension is set at the hardest setting since it's too soft and bouncy otherwise, but I'm more interested in reducing the front forks dive. It really is a downer on the bike!

[SriramEfunds]

Originally Posted by tejus.s

2. Is there anyway I can reduce the front suspension dive? It's too soft for my liking and does not inspire any confidence in the bends.

Your help/suggestion is much appreciated

Yes, you can go in for a thicker oil so that there is less dive when hard braking. It might not be too good over pothole rides and will give you some feedback running over them. You'll also see a difference while braking.

[tejus.s]

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

Yes, you can go in for a thicker oil so that there is less dive when hard braking.

Thanks Sriram. I'll check with the service guys here although they are not well versed with spares/technology which is beyond their scope. I remember one of them not understanding the difference between mineral and semi-synthetic engine oil! If they turn out be of little help, I'll need to find some person here who can. Any idea on what specification I should be looking for?

[SriramEfunds]

Originally Posted by tejus.s

Any idea on what specification I should be looking for?

I know few are using a combination of oils. You can go for " hydrol68 + fork oil mixture" in the ratio 50:50 ratio, will serve the purpose

PS: Hydrol68 is a servo industrial oil, finds use in machinery hydraulic system, even Castrol & Veedol have similar system 68 oils ( this is not meant for lubrication generally).

[tejus.s]

Thanks a ton Sriram! I'll talk to some mechanic here and get it done soon. Thanks again buddy.

[bluevolt]

One of my bike's pilot lamp got fused. Where should I head to get the replacement? Hero service station or local auto electronics store?

Is there something like LEDs/DRLs for pilot lamps? Any Recommendations or should I continue with stock fitment?

[SriramEfunds]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

One of my bike's pilot lamp got fused. Where should I head to get the replacement? Hero service station or local auto electronics store?

Is there something like LEDs/DRLs for pilot lamps? Any Recommendations or should I continue with stock fitment?

If you really want the coolest pilot lamps, please read further. I'm not directing to any fake or chinese product.

Currently my ZMA is running on Philips T10 W5W LED 4000k luminous. Why 4000k? Ok, this is the nearest you get matching to your headlight. This is not white but brighter with traces of yellow tinge. There are 4300k Pilot lamps from Philips which outshines the headlight (if you are using Philips Xtreme vision 60/55w) hence look odd according to me.
This Philips LED does not come easy and priced very high and I got it shipped to India from UK.

Philips Vision LED W5W T10 4000K (Twin Pack) | Car Bulbs Direct

No mods required, just straight fit. I heard it is available in Mumbai while searching last year, however, could not get close to know more information so I ended up buying it online.

They are very prompt in delivery also got Osram pair of ordinarypilot bulbs for free. From making payment got the product in 8th working day. They are very attractive and would be a delight to watch the spread(in low/no light) on the ground.

Hope this helps!

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

Is there something like LEDs/DRLs for pilot lamps? Any Recommendations or should I continue with stock fitment?

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

If you really want the coolest pilot lamps, please read further. I'm not directing to any fake or chinese product.

Currently my ZMA is running on Philips T10 W5W LED 4000k luminous. Why 4000k? Ok, this is the nearest you get matching to your headlight. This is not white but brighter with traces of yellow tinge. There are 4300k Pilot lamps from Philips which outshines the headlight (if you are using Philips Xtreme vision 60/55w) hence look odd according to me.
This Philips LED does not come easy and priced very high and I got it shipped to India from UK.

Philips Vision LED W5W T10 4000K (Twin Pack) | Car Bulbs Direct

No mods required, just straight fit. I heard it is available in Mumbai while searching last year, however, could not get close to know more information so I ended up buying it online.

They are very prompt in delivery also got Osram pair of ordinarypilot bulbs for free. From making payment got the product in 8th working day. They are very attractive and would be a delight to watch the spread(in low/no light) on the ground.

Hope this helps!

I've got some cheap 50rs single LED bulbs for pilots. Got LED tail lamp bulbs as well, both added together save a lot of power. Happily running a Philips Xtremevision 60/55 now!

[bluevolt]

It's over three years since I own this bike and still using the stock horn.

I tried to upgrade many times but could not find a decent sounding horn.

I have seen few 220s and Karizmas with those round chrome plated horns but could not make out the brand.

Guys any suggestions over this?

Also note that I am still running with stock Amco battery (If that makes any difference).

[HighOctane]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

It's over three years since I own this bike and still using the stock horn.

I tried to upgrade many times but could not find a decent sounding horn.

I have seen few 220s and Karizmas with those round chrome plated horns but could not make out the brand.

Guys any suggestions over this?

Also note that I am still running with stock Amco battery (If that makes any difference).

A pair of Bosch horns are best suited for ZMA, the one which comes in alluminium finish. You need to add bosch or any other good relay. It can be hidden under the bikini fairing. I had this on my CBZ and ZMA. Now I need not change my ZMR's stock horns as they are loud enough.

[Beast_of_Burden]

I have a Nov 2011 ZMA with 10k on the ODO that has a really flaky gear shift. ~50% of the time the shifts are imperceptibly smooth. The rest of the time shifts are really notchy, occassionaly there is a loud khat-khat sound. I also find it really hard to find neutral.

If the bike is in the first gear and stationary at a traffic light, I cant get it out of 1st even into 2nd. The gear shift is basically stuck in 1st. Frequently I try to move a little forward and see if I can get it to shift out of first, but it is a futile exercise. The gear shift comes unstuck after I let in the clutch and gain a bit of speed.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues? Except for this issue, the ZMA works like a charm.

[SriramEfunds]

Originally Posted by Beast_of_Burden

I have a Nov 2011 ZMA with 10k on the ODO that has a really flaky gear shift. ~50% of the time the shifts are imperceptibly smooth. The rest of the time shifts are really notchy, occassionaly there is a loud khat-khat sound. I also find it really hard to find neutral.

If the bike is in the first gear and stationary at a traffic light, I cant get it out of 1st even into 2nd. The gear shift is basically stuck in 1st. Frequently I try to move a little forward and see if I can get it to shift out of first, but it is a futile exercise. The gear shift comes unstuck after I let in the clutch and gain a bit of speed.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues? Except for this issue, the ZMA works like a charm.

Two things I would like you to check:-

1. What engine oil are you using? If it is 10w30 HH Oil, kindly shift to 20w40 Mineral. Slightly thicker but result is awesome. No over heating issues. Helps in smoother gear shifts. Lasts considerably longer than 10w30 (HH stock oil becomes rought after 500-700kms or ride).

2. I guess you'll need to adjust the clutch ply and that should take care of gear falling in place.

Hope this helps!

[Beast_of_Burden]

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

Two things I would like you to check:-

1. What engine oil are you using? If it is 10w30 HH Oil, kindly shift to 20w40 Mineral. Slightly thicker but result is awesome. No over heating issues. Helps in smoother gear shifts. Lasts considerably longer than 10w30 (HH stock oil becomes rought after 500-700kms or ride).

2. I guess you'll need to adjust the clutch ply and that should take care of gear falling in place.

Hope this helps!

Well, I had mentioned this to the service guys. They did adjust a little excess play in the clutch lever. The dealer changed the oil in the last service, I am still going through free services, I guess I can change over to this other oil after I have completed all the free services. Thanks for your advice though.

[bluevolt]

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

Two things I would like you to check:-

1. What engine oil are you using? If it is 10w30 HH Oil, kindly shift to 20w40 Mineral. Slightly thicker but result is awesome. No over heating issues. Helps in smoother gear shifts.

I had an impression in my mind that using synthetic oils improves gear shifts as compared to mineral oils?