[distiller]

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm

Any advise or suggestion for tyres ?

I need to replace the tyres of my car as OE that came with the car is now over 5 years old and done just over 30K. As a rule I dont like using tyres over 4 years max, but kept this set longer, as the car was mainly used as a runabout in the last 2 years.

Currently the car is on Goodyear 175/65 R14. Good ride comfort and was quiet stable/planted on highways as well even on wet conditions.

I am leaning towards replacing with same brand.

Best Regards & Drive Safe

Ram

Hi Ram,
I had replaced my original OEM Goodyear tyres with Michelin. Although I didn't have that great experience with Michelin.
I used my Goodyear set till approximately 54K km & I didn't had a single puncture. The tyres were pretty good all round performers.
I have used the Michelin for approximately 8k km. I have two punctures in the side wall. The tyres have huge grooves in centre, which picks up stones & then it releases them with a bang on your mudguard. The tyres make squealing noise especially in afternoon heat.
Maybe I will suggest you to continue with Goodyear or try Bridgestone, Apollo or the latest MRF which I think are more suited to our road conditions.
Happy Motoring!!!

[hserus]

Originally Posted by distiller

Hi Ram,
I have used the Michelin for approximately 8k km. I have two punctures in the side wall. The tyres have huge grooves in centre, which picks up stones & then it releases them with a bang on your mudguard. The tyres make squealing noise especially in afternoon heat.
Maybe I will suggest you to continue with Goodyear or try Bridgestone, Apollo or the latest MRF which I think are more suited to our road conditions.
Happy Motoring!!!

Hard compound cheap tyres tyres with limited road grip and high noise levels though a long life (eg Apollo and MRF), versus extremely soft compound tyres where you were unlucky to get a couple of punctures. Try not to drive close to the left of the road, especially when you see a puncture repair shop just ahead, a lot of those people will scatter nails and screws on the road to get extra business.

Yoko Earth 1, Conti MC5 are a good price / quality balance for what you need.

Bridgestone has the B290 which is somewhere between Yoko/Conti and the cheap MRF / JK type tyres. You might consider that if most of what you do is city rather than highway driving.

[panky12345]

Originally Posted by hserus

Yoko Earth 1, Conti MC5 are a good price / quality balance for what you need.

I've had bad experience with both Bridgestone (OE) and with Yokohoma Earth 1 on my amaze. Recently got changed to Apollo 4G and ride has become better.

[distiller]

Originally Posted by hserus

Hard compound cheap tyres tyres with limited road grip and high noise levels though a long life (eg Apollo and MRF), versus extremely soft compound tyres where you were unlucky to get a couple of punctures. Try not to drive close to the left of the road, especially when you see a puncture repair shop just ahead, a lot of those people will scatter nails and screws on the road to get extra business.



Yoko Earth 1, Conti MC5 are a good price / quality balance for what you need.



Bridgestone has the B290 which is somewhere between Yoko/Conti and the cheap MRF / JK type tyres. You might consider that if most of what you do is city rather than highway driving.

I shared my experience.

Second I completely agree with you regarding the tyre quality, great handling on dry / wet surface, low noise and comfortable ride. Although are our roads ready for this kind of tyres.
And the stress of driving in our conditions is already high on index, why to contribute more by taking care of your tyres.
And I saw one more car (Hyundai I20) shod with Michelin & it had similar punctures on side wall! Just reinforcing my experience that these tyres are not built for our kind of roads.

[abhishek2386]

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm

Any advise or suggestion for tyres ?

I think you can safely go with Yokohama Earth 1.
I did shift from Goodyear to Yokohama Earth 1 about an year back and covered almost 16000 Kms since then.


Yokohama Earth 1 is made specifically for Indian conditions and has a good performance overall in all kinds of roads and conditions. The noise is also on the little lower side than Goodyear. The tread and wear conditions are minimal considering I travel on both good and bad roads on a daily basis.

[r_nairtvm]

Originally Posted by hserus

Yoko Earth 1, Conti MC5 are a good price / quality balance for what you need.

Got the tyres changed. Went with Yoko Earth 1. Got all 4 of April 2018 manufacturing date. Could immediately notice a subtle difference in noise levels.

Distinguished TBHPian Nikhil helped with this and got a good price from Madhu's Bangalore.

Was impressed with the facility in Madhu's at Langford Road, Bangalore and with the competence with which the employees were going about with their assigned tasks.

Best Regards & Drive Safe

Ram

[iceman07]

Originally Posted by distiller

+ PompousKnight

I also have a similar experience with Honda roadside assistance.

I was on the way from Pune to Bangalore, was climbing the Khandala ghat (not the one on Mumbai-Pune stretch) I experienced sudden loss of power but the car regained power within a second or two & no malfunction light came up on instrument cluster. Post climbing up the ghat I stopped and examined the engine bay but didn't observe anything abnormal. I continued my journey albeit with caution and keen eye on instrument cluster. Just before Kolhapur I again experienced the same problem and this time the malfunction light came on. I called the Honda helpline and they directed to Kolhapur dealer who was also informed. My car was assigned a service bay on priority & immediately the team ran the scan to identify the cause. It came out that the exhaust oxygen sensor has failed and hence the fuel flow rate to engine was not steady. They also informed that they don't have the O2 sensor in stock as it very rarely fails. I was advised that I can proceed to Bangalore but will experience low efficiency and sudden acceleration or deceleration.

Since my family (daughter & wife) was with me, I planned to return back to Pune. The journey was uneventful. The next day I took the car to one of the ASS and requested them to help me out in the unexpected. And the team there went all out to do the needful.

And the saving grace was the "extended warranty" as I was informed that the part would cost me around 18K.
Touch wood till date apart from this issue I never have faced any other problem. And I appreciate Honda's customer care !

The warranty saved you $$ , the oxygen sensor on my Amaze Vxi failed on me , have driven only 36K Kms and have handled it like a baby most of the time. Any reasons why do O2 sensors fail?

BTW: The cheap OBD2-BT diag had already shown me the error code and i knew all about it before i approached ASS. The line that caught my attention is the unavailability of the part and ASS saying it does not fail often. Any news of wide spread failures ,this is going to cost me 10K aprox!!

[vsrivatsa]

Originally Posted by Hickstead

The motor in the driver side rear view mirror has suddenly given up last night when I was trying to close it with the button on my door pad. My car is three years old and the same mirror has taken two to three hits from bikers on the road earlier. Can any one estimate the total loss for my pocket to replace the motor alone, as the mirror has no major damages externally.

I faced a similar issue on my City. Was hit by a Tiago and the mirror shattered and the Motor stopped working. I got the Mirror replaced at the authorized dealer for Rs.500/- but they dont have the motor separately and said the entire OVRM Assembly needs to be changed which would cost Rs.7500/- approx.

Here is how it looked: URL

I tried my luck at local market in JC Road Bangalore and found someone who replaced just the Motor for 2K. More details here: URL

[SCORPION]

The new Amaze CVT diesel engine is detuned to 80 bhp and 160 Nm, apparently to preserve the CVT gearbox and improve it's longevity. Ok, agreed.

The Autocar India review of the new Amaze says both the diesel manual and CVT cars have been detuned, which didn't make sense to me. So I checked the brochure and it's only the CVT that seems to be detuned. I guess the brochure is correct, no?

Anyway, how does the detuned engine feel?

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by SCORPION

Anyway, how does the detuned engine feel?

Even I wasn't aware of this till we test drove the Diesel CVT at Magnum Honda on New Airport road few weeks before for a neighbor friend of mine.

Their TD Cars are parked on the building, easily height of 3 floors. So it was easy for us to do a ramp test when returning back as there is a speed breaker exactly at the beginning of this ramp before you climb.

In MT, I would have slotted to first and let the car climb as I know Amaze has a beautiful tractability when it comes to this unlike other diesels that exhibit lag (including my own MJD). In CVT, I had to give little input to the throttle and it climbed the ramp beautifully.

The above is not to talk about the detuned engine. Before this the same CVT we touched around 95 KMPH on the open highway and it is exactly around here that I asked the Sales advisor that this one doesn't give a feeling of 100 BHP (as I released the throttle and floored it again) and he responded that CVT is 80 BHP!

The engine is nice to move around in B2B traffic and even nicer to take off from standstill and hit some good speeds (80 KMPH) but around 90-95, I could notice that the engine felt strained with 3 adults and the AC On. I didn't go above 95 as there was traffic that restricted me else I wanted to at least test the noise and power around 110-120 which is typically our cruising speeds on highways (Debate about speed limits aside).

The engine note was coarse which I thought was still a characteristic of iDTEC. Even when I was releasing the throttle and pressing it again, the clatter was nicely heard inside although I had the impression that this was better than the previous Gen MT that I had driven.

Overall, I liked the CVT. It does its Job without much ado (and may be with some noise). The acceleration on the CVT is linear with very less rubber band effect.

[SCORPION]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

In MT, I would have slotted to first and let the car climb as I know Amaze has a beautiful tractability when it comes to this unlike other diesels that exhibit lag (including my own MJD). In CVT, I had to give little input to the throttle and it climbed the ramp beautifully.

Thanks. Is there a manual mode? And I also see an L next to the CVT gear lever apart from the regular PRND slots. What is that for?

The speed is limited to 140 kmph as before. I am sure the engine will be pretty strained and screaming by then.

I think the car would look better if that big chrome moustache is blacked out.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by SCORPION

Thanks. Is there a manual mode?

I don't recollect and I guess there is no Manual Mode. There were no paddle shifters on the steering wheel.

And I also see an L next to the CVT gear lever apart from the regular PRND slots. What is that for?

L stands for 'Lo' Gear where the transmission won't shift and will deliver necessary torque required for steep climbs or towing short distances etc.

The speed is limited to 140 kmph as before. I am sure the engine will be pretty strained and screaming by then.

The speed limit of 140 I remember was there even for the first gen iDTEC Amaze while it wasn't for the Honda City and there was good discussion around this some time back.

[Hickstead]

Originally Posted by vsrivatsa

I tried my luck at local market in JC Road Bangalore and found someone who replaced just the Motor for 2K. More details here: URL

Thank you for update.
Infact, I have also got the motor in my ORVM replaced for 2K. An electrician who works for Honda ASS here in Hyderabad has done this replacement.
I forgot to update this thread .

[volkman10]

Honda Cars to inspect 7,290 units of Amaze for EPS Sensor Harness manufactured from 17 April 2018 to 24 May 2018.

There is a possibility that in some of these cars, the customers may feel the steering heavier and EPS indicator light comes on. HCIL will voluntarily replace the EPS column unit after inspection, if required.

Link

[distiller]

Dear Team Members!
I wish to share one experience. Recently did one Pune-Bangalore-Pune trip. While on return leg, filled fuel in Bangalore & then in Dharwad (just after crossing the exit toll, BP pump on the RHS).
I didn't use the car for 4 days. Yesterday morning when I cranked the car, it refused to start. After attempting 3-4 times, I opened bonnet to check the engine bay but everything appeared normal. There was no engine check light as well. Then again I gave it a try & it puttered to life. I let it warm up for few minutes & then started driving towards exit of my society gate. I saw the engine check lamp flickered a few times. I was in two minds, should I switch off the car & call the service station or should I continue to drive albeit with caution. As I had to visit nearby I choose the latter.
I didn't saw the check engine light again. So I went further ahead & also filled around 11 litres of fuel at a BP Platinum pump. I drive around 40 Km in city & also did some stop & starts. The car ran smoothly.
I was completely surprised & couldn't understand what would be the reason. I had serviced the car when I was in Bangalore. My current ODO reading stands at 61500 km & it's a IVTEC!