[itwasntme]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Sounds as though the brakes are frozen in place or something.
Is this something to worry about?

Originally Posted by novice

I think it is the case of tires getting glued to the surface as water dries up.
It is not a problem at all but your conditions may differ.

This is caused by the rear brake shoe/liners locking up and 'sticking' to the brake drum. Common in some cars and especially in VW & Skoda. Search TBHP itself or Google for it generally.

An easy way out is not to apply the handbrakes (i.e. keep in a low gear only) when parking for extended periods, especially when the car has been driven in wet conditions and/or the weather is damp. However, this comes with it's own risks depending on the incline of your parking spot.

Another tip is not to wash the car and leave the tyres/brakes wet. After washing, drive it for ~5 minutes to dry the brakes out. This worked very well for my earlier Polo, Aveo, Cruze & current Octavia.

In any case, do not ignore this as it can lead to total brake locking and/or replacement of brake shoes.

[novice]

Originally Posted by itwasntme

In any case, do not ignore this as it can lead to total brake locking and/or replacement of brake shoes.

I am now worried since you say it is sticking brakes. I always thought it is the tires.

But all my cars (Skoda, Ford, Toyota) always did this, never faced any premature brake failures over the past two decades. May be I was lucky. I would try 'no- handbrake' method when things get wet next time.

[KapilD]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Thanks for clarifying that man, appreciate it!

Another issue I noticed is that whenever there is a period where in the car has been sitting stationary for more than 3 days, there is a loud clanking sound the second the car moves forward when I release the break after shifting to D. Sounds as though the brakes are frozen in place or something.

Is this something to worry about?

You should check and confirm that it’s not the brakes. Washed and stagnant car front brakes on front do this and should not be an issue. But if rear brake then check!

Easy way to negotiate this is always park in gear and no hand brake for parking overnight and beyond. If handbrake is on for very long, you might end up with a busted master cylinder. Also, prudent practice would be to have a stopper at the wheels if you are at an incline.

I was ignorant in 2011 and lost the brake master cylinder by keeping the hand brake always on during long parking mode on our i20.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by KapilD

... If handbrake is on for very long, you might end up with a busted master cylinder. ... was ignorant in 2011 and lost the brake master cylinder by keeping the hand brake always on during long parking mode on our i20.

Why? My first thought is that's what it is for, isn't it?

Whilst I don't recall it happening with either of my polos, I have often experienced this stuck-drum-brake clunk as it comes free. Usually after car has been driven in rain, or through water. Beyond the clunk, there has never been a problem.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by itwasntme

This is caused by the rear brake shoe/liners locking up and 'sticking' to the brake drum. Common in some cars and especially in VW & Skoda. Search TBHP itself or Google for it generally.

An easy way out is not to apply the handbrakes (i.e. keep in a low gear only) when parking for extended periods, especially when the car has been driven in wet conditions and/or the weather is damp. However, this comes with it's own risks depending on the incline of your parking spot.

Another tip is not to wash the car and leave the tyres/brakes wet. After washing, drive it for ~5 minutes to dry the brakes out. This worked very well for my earlier Polo, Aveo, Cruze & current Octavia.

In any case, do not ignore this as it can lead to total brake locking and/or replacement of brake shoes.

Well, from what I have noticed is that the sound seems to be emitting from the front brakes. Also once the car gets moving, the brakes have a slight grinding sound when being used for the first 2-3 times, almost sound like what carbon ceramic brakes sound like except without the squeaking sound. I'm not sure what to think about it

[Cyborg]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Well, from what I have noticed is that the sound seems to be emitting from the front brakes. Also once the car gets moving, the brakes have a slight grinding sound when being used for the first 2-3 times, almost sound like what carbon ceramic brakes sound like except without the squeaking sound. I'm not sure what to think about it

I had a similar experience with the front disc’s on my Civic if parked for 4-5 days of non usage. It was as if the brake pads were stuck to the disc, I had to literally slightly accelerate to get them unstuck. Once the car started moving, the rubbing sound would go away.

I had this problem for awhile after which one day the pedal just went to floor, I barely avoided an accident. My mechanic said the disc pads were almost completely worn out, he replaced the pads, skimmed the discs and replaced the brake oil. The problem hasn’t reoccurred after the service.

Please have the wheels opened and brakes checked as soon as possible to be on the safe side and update on the findings.

Cheers

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by Cyborg

I had a similar experience with the front disc’s on my Civic if parked for 4-5 days of non usage. It was as if the brake pads were stuck to the disc, I had to literally slightly accelerate to get them unstuck. Once the car started moving, the rubbing sound would go away.

I had this problem for awhile after which one day the pedal just went to floor, I barely avoided an accident. My mechanic said the disc pads were almost completely worn out, he replaced the pads, skimmed the discs and replaced the brake oil. The problem hasn’t reoccurred after the service.

Please have the wheels opened and brakes checked as soon as possible to be on the safe side and update on the findings.

Cheers

Jesus! This sounds like a cause for concern. I'll definitely have it checked out asap and update the thread.

Thank a lot for your insight!

[KapilD]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Well, from what I have noticed is that the sound seems to be emitting from the front brakes. Also once the car gets moving, the brakes have a slight grinding sound when being used for the first 2-3 times, almost sound like what carbon ceramic brakes sound like except without the squeaking sound. I'm not sure what to think about it

Originally Posted by Cyborg

I had a similar experience ...

I had this problem for awhile after which one day the pedal just went to floor, I barely avoided an accident. My mechanic said the disc pads were almost completely worn out, he replaced the pads, skimmed the discs and replaced the brake oil. The problem hasn’t reoccurred after the service.

Please have the wheels opened and brakes checked as soon as possible to be on the safe side and update on the findings.

Cheers

@PrisonMike: You should get the brakes checked as they don't grind until and unless the linings are exposed and the padding have thinned. Also, the hydraulic brake boost in our cars don't let us feel the deficit of the eroded pad.

The best thing you can do to judge is to keep a light foot on the brake pedal before starting the car and see the hardness of the hydraulic. Normally you should have a little bit of space to depress. In case your brakes are hard (like after you pressed the brake pedal 3/4 times without starting the car) and then the brakes go down below the normal bite point, its time to change your brake pads.

Also, in your case if the screeching has caused grooves on the disc, I'd recommend you get them replaced along with the pads. Would cost 6000 for the set.

[Thad E Ginathom]

There is a warning layer built into (man/all?) brake pads which makes them screech when nearing the end of their life.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

There is a warning layer built into (man/all?) brake pads which makes them screech when nearing the end of their life.

Is this even possible considering my car has done just over 23k? Although it's a 2015 model.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Is this even possible considering my car has done just over 23k? Although it's a 2015 model.

Depends more on driving style than mileage. Easy enough to check out.

[Carmine_pepper]

Here is an interesting experience. So the 7 yr old Polo Gt starts jerking badly with EPC,traction control and CEL light coming on. The car was serviced barely a week ago before the problem started. The erratic behaviour of the DSG had my heart in my mouth in the mean time.
Thankfully scanner threw up a couple of misfiring messages which pointed to something wrong with the ignition system. Checked the plugs and found the central electrodes to be worn down to a needle shape!!

Apparently VW service never bothered to change the spark plug in 8 years... so around 1550 odd rupees later the car is again purring like a kitten!


Mod Note: Post edited. Please start your sentences with correct capitalization.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Another issue I noticed is that whenever there is a period where in the car has been sitting stationary for more than 3 days, there is a loud clanking sound the second the car moves forward when I release the break after shifting to D. Sounds as though the brakes are frozen in place or something.

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Well, from what I have noticed is that the sound seems to be emitting from the front brakes. Also once the car gets moving, the brakes have a slight grinding sound when being used for the first 2-3 times, almost sound like what carbon ceramic brakes sound like except without the squeaking sound. I'm not sure what to think about it

Just an update to my previous post.
I had the car taken to Downtown VW service center at Sewri to get a general check up and servicing done. I had asked for special emphasis on the brakes and brakepads as a customer request. The advisor later called me up saying that the brakes pad and rotos seem to be in good condition, but did manage to collect some dirt.
I however, still requested for the brakes to be serviced - because better safe than sorry, I suppose. I have yet to drive the car since the server, so will let you know if things changed for the better, or worse.

Another interesting point I wanted to note was that, the advisor say that the DSG in the 1.2 GT do not need to have the transmission oil changed after a certain interval, which I initially thought was every 40-60k kms. He said that only applied for the 1.6 liter engines. Is that true in anyway?

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Another interesting point I wanted to note was that, the advisor say that the DSG in the 1.2 GT do not need to have the transmission oil changed after a certain interval, which I initially thought was every 40-60k kms. He said that only applied for the 1.6 liter engines. Is that true in anyway?

The DQ200 has two separate oil circuits.

- One is for the gearbox body itself which lubricates all the cogs and bearings in the mechanical component of the GB, very much like a manual gearbox. This oil I believe also helps in cooling the mechatronics circuit by coming in contact with it externally

- The second is for the valve body of the GB or the mechatronics oil. This is what is the lifeblood of the mechatronics. It is pumped through the solenoids to actuate arms that swap cogs and engage clutches. This is a special oil and the GB takes in around 1.1L. This oil is usually never changed by the folks at VW ASCs.

You can change the gearbox body oil every 60K km at the ASC if you so wish. But I don't think they will touch the mechatronics at all.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by vishy76

The DQ200 has two separate oil circuits.

- One is for the gearbox body itself which lubricates all the cogs and bearings in the mechanical component of the GB, very much like a manual gearbox. This oil I believe also helps in cooling the mechatronics circuit by coming in contact with it externally

- The second is for the valve body of the GB or the mechatronics oil. This is what is the lifeblood of the mechatronics. It is pumped through the solenoids to actuate arms that swap cogs and engage clutches. This is a special oil and the GB takes in around 1.1L. This oil is usually never changed by the folks at VW ASCs.

You can change the gearbox body oil every 60K km at the ASC if you so wish. But I don't think they will touch the mechatronics at all.

Thanks a lot for such an informative reply!
Is changing the gearbox oil officially recommended by VW? He basically said that no fluids in the transmission/GB would require any change in a 1.2 GT.