Hey Everyone !!
ODO is at 32000kms and the stock Goodyear GT3s are about to be changed. Although they have threads left for another 5,000kms - 10,000kms; they are not grippy at all. in loose stones, mud, rain, etc there is no grip. In rain, the car doesn't slow down enough at all and at times the wheels lock.
In the locality where I stay Bridgestone tyres are recommended by everyone. The thing is he (and everyone else ) recommends the Potenza G IIIs [I am upgrading to 195/60 R15]. Is it okay to go for an old model? Haven't upgraded till now because, currently the Bridgestone outlet is out of stock of GIIIs.
He has a new tyre Bridgestone Turnaza t001 195/65 R15 but its a new tyre and not much reviews are there with it. Also I am not sure about the wheel wells touching.
I was tempted to go for 205/60 R15 upsize done by BHPian ShreyasJain on the stock alloys
(GC increase of 10mm sounds so tempting), but they only had Bridgestone MY-02 in that size, and those are costly. It feels better to go for Michellins at that price point.
The reason for not looking at Michellins : I drive some rough roads and I am not sure but the Michellin's puncture resistance. Still I am planning to go for Michellins (Most probably XM2 195/60 R15) after the Bridgestone set or if Bridgestone is unable to get the GIIIs.
About Apollo and MRF. They said they have good tyres, but they both went like Bridgestone GIIIs are the best.
Other issues (most seen after crossing 30,000kms mark)
- Alternator grinding noise (detailed below)
- Gear box metallic chunking sound. Its heard only in the 1st gear and 2nd gear area, not heard when upshifting to 3rd or 4th but heard when downshifting to 2nd or 1st. Also at times, the gear box is rough in the 1st and 2nd plane.
- Car jerks when taking humps at times (feels like the car coughing), seen usually in highway drives or when driving fast. I think this is a problem with me. Usually in highways we shift fast and let go of the clutch faster in higher gears. i think once i slow down near a hump and shift it to first; I must be taking off the foot too fast from the clutch.
- Engine sounds LOUD. I took it as a problem to the ASC for the 2nd paid service, they said its normal and that its because I have clocked more kilometers. I heard the Engine of a 2007 Civic recently and it was louder (run about 75,000kms), so I am at a doubt at what's wrong. is it normal or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adarsh76 Replaced the stock wipers with Bosch Clear Advantage Wipers (24 inch and 14 inch) for an amount of 890. Excellent wipers, no noise and smooth cleaning without any vibration. No streaks except in the top most edge of the long wiper which is normal. Had this for the stock wipers as well initially which faded off by use.
Including this the 12 month scheduled service cost can be taken as 4453 + 890 = 5343.
The total service cost after completing 1 year on my VX CVT is as follows:
6 month scheduled service : 1519
12 month scheduled service : 5343 Total : 6862 |
I recently changed my wipers for the city (around 2 weeks back). The sizes were 26 inches and 14 inches. They didn't have 14 inches in stock (They claimed it is not manufactured.) so i went for 16 inches and 26 inches. Its the Bosch Clear Advantage (I think; in local language they use terms like rubber blades)
Cost: Rs. 950.00
Quote:
Originally Posted by tejas08 Mods, please excuse for the back-to-back post. The Edit option for the earlier post was gone already. LATEST Update on Alternator Belt Grinding Noise
I will keep this post very short. If anyone wants to know the details of the horrible experience of repeated trips to the ASC, please visit the link below and read post 32 & 35. http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post3717227
ASC did the following during their process of rectification of the Problem: - Clean Drive Belt and Lubricate Idler Pulley and Refit.
- Replace Drive Belt & Idler Pulley
- Removal and Refitment of Alternator and Crank Pulley
- Replacement of the Alternator under Warranty.
Post the 4th Sr. no. there is no noise coming from the Alternator Area.
P.S.: All the above were done on seperate visits and I had to bear the burden of taking the car to ASC and bringing it back everytime.  |
Thanks for the information.
Its honestly a headache to clear warranty problems with the Honda ASC. They take months to get spare parts.
I would like to ask whether the main headlights become dim when you operate the window power switches; when you reach the bottom and your still holding it or when its fully closed and you want to check if its fully closed and pull it (I hope it makes sense)
Its not only that which causes dimming of head lights, even pressing the brake pedal on unlit roads at night, i see the dimness (not hard braking, just the braking to reduce speed from 70kmph-60kmph). Also, sometimes when the AC compressor starts, there's a sudden dimness which comes, and after 15 seconds it's back to normal.
By chance is any of this signs of a weak battery?
I suspected the alternator problem in the beginning days i got the day, but the ASC told me its normal. I didn't hear any grinding noise or anything until a month back. Now I hear the noise (after crossing 30,000kms), it's very prominent whenever I start the car, thought out the day, but its negligible after long drives (more than 1-2 hours of driving).
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickACM Mine is an iVtec CVT. Theoretically your explanation is bang on. But I never experienced this during the first 2000kms.
Till 1000kms- I used to feel that the car wants to roar but it is on a leash and was ready to live with it because of the fact that this is not the TSI-DSG combo
Post 1st service- Even though it's a generic service, felt as if the Car has been unleashed and I was pleasantly surprised to experience the difference in the pickup on D mode till 2500rpm. It was no less than the experience of a turbo.
In both the above stages, I have always had the AC set at a comfortable 24 degrees in Delhi heat periodically changing fan speed.
The last 700 kms have been pathetic. I did make some changes post 1800 kms
1. Changed tyres to 195/60- Yokohama Earth 1 with HRS Alloys and started filling Nitrogen at 32/30psi
2. Added a Bass Bin with an Amp under the passenger seat in front
3. Added 2 speakers on the B-Pillar
4. Changed the bulbs- inside and headlamps both. Added foot light and Changed the horn.
I don't know if its the tyre change that might have led to this drop in pickup but I don't see any other change as the root cause.
Also, I have noticed the Reading Lamp flickering when the door has been left open for more than 3 mins with the Bass set at full. Could this be because of a short circuit or an inadequate rating of the battery to support all the additions to my car |
If you don't mind sharing; I would like to know a few things.
1. Which variant is yours?
2. How is the Yokohama Earth 1s?
3. Which amp and bass bin did you add; and damage to wallet?
4. By speakers on B-pillar, do you mean tweeters?
Okay, i guess that was too many questions.
The battery is inadequate and you do have a lot of power consuming stuff. I am pretty sure that the amp and bass bin takes a lot of power.
Try driving your car with the ICE and AC off; if it makes a difference in pick up; you will know the root cause.
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Originally Posted by varunsangal Most ASC insist on wheel balancing as a prerequisite to tire rotation. Wonder if that is just a scam or if tires will behave differently if rotated if they are not balanced. |
Just tell them you don't want it. I made the mistake recently, had done
Wheel Balancing and Wheel Alignment from the Honda ASC.
From my 2nd Paid service bill:
- Wheel Alignment – Rs. 533.71
- Wheel Balancing – Rs. 449.44
(20g – Rs. 250.76 {for 2 pieces}; the rest are for a piece each 40g – Rs 112.21; 30g – Rs 87.02; 15g – Rs. 51.52; 10g – Rs 37.78)
Each weight was charged extra. Total for Wheel balancing was Rs. 988.73
The prices are exclusive of service tax and VAT.
That made Wheel Balancing and Wheel Alignment around Rs. 1700.00. If done outside, you can do it within Rs. 500.00 for both.