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-   -   4th-gen Honda City : Official Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/145656-4th-gen-honda-city-official-review-360.html)

I came to the thread thinking somebody purchased a new vehicle in a good deal before the facelift arrival, so kudos to the work done by the team, but 25k for the job is too much, isn't it? You can get the car repainted in a showroom for 40k I think.

Love the results though.

25k is a tad on the higher side, but the reasons I went for it are:

1. The long lasting water beading effect on the car implies that I still use less than 500ml to wash the car completely. In any case, a 5 min job with a Jopasu Duster does the work pretty well.

2. Lesser effort to wash/dust implies that I wash the car personally every day. No more swirls!:)

3. Very bad experience with Honda Service Centres (this is from the Pondy/Chennai days; Mumbai's been good so far). When they repaint, they normally end up causing more damage than good. This includes drip marks, pimple like projections etc. Didn't want to spend 40k and then some more behind getting those issues out.

4. Love this colour very much. Didn't want to risk getting a different colour by repainting some place else. Am mostly a stock car guy.

Hi,

Has anyone gotten any additional noise insulation done on their AHNC ? I have two concerns , maybe others can guide me :

1) The engine noise beyond 2500 rpm ( I do love the engine note from 0 to all the way till the redline but I sometimes feel it is louder than it should be around 3000 - 4000 rpm range ). I am mainly comparing to other cars I have driven - i20, Verna. Though the performance by Honda is way better than them.

2) The tyre noise and the noise from the shockers ( tyre upgrade to Michelin 3ST is on the cards but waiting to wear out the stock tyres a bit more - only 13k on the ODO )




Thanks,
Namit

iVtec or iDtec?

If it is iVtec:
1. Engine noise is definitely louder than Hyundais, especially above 3k rpm.

2. Road noise is present in mine, but not as much as a friend who has MRFs on his(Mine are Michelin XM1s). Road noise is apparent only at higher speeds in mine. Which tyres do you use?

Sorry forgot to mention - it is iVtec. Mine are MRFs too :Frustrati

I did inquire about reduction of road noises in the City with Dynamat & Dampmat here in Delhi. The Dampmat dealer quoted me something in the range of 10-12K, for the door damping (which as per him does reduce road level noises to quite an extent) and another 12-15K for the damping being installed after removal of seats and carpets.

The prices seemed reasonable, however, i was not willing to invest that much in the vehicle at this point of time.

Btw, i am on stock Goodyear tires and intend to do do all these damping on the car once i upgrade the tires.

AFAIK, nothing much can be done with the engine noise as i believe cladding the engine might hamper it in some way or the other due to heat build up (Not very sure on this though and never really gave it a thought :D )

I am getting 3M underbody coating done this weekend. I will ask them to put some additional coats on the wheel well areas. I have read at a couple of places that underbody coating seems to reduce the road noise to some extent - will post the outcome here once it is done.

Do get the 5 year warranty variant- it is more viscous and dampens sound much better. Got mine done 3years back(1 month after purchase) and im happy with the underbody noise cut.

Hi Guys,

I am trying to choose between a Vento, City or Rapid ( all automatic). Already own a Polo TDI ( and very happy). Would prefer petrol given the pollution control judgements which come out in NCR. Self drive, family vacation with the Beagle along when needed.

Need the link to the review for the Honda City Automatic ( petrol) latest version and pointers to choose 'wisely'. Thanks.

Deleting Bluetooth paired device from VMT latest version.
I had tried a lot of other things but this one worked for me.
Deleting Bluetooth paired device from VMT


All credits to the original owner of the video from FB Devesh Sharma.

A minor comparison of the three as per my knowledge:

Spacious, Good Performance, Neutral Handling, Better Service, Lower Maintenance Costs, Better FE - City (However, should wait for the new City to be launched)

Spacious but no 3rd Passenger rear leg space, Better Handling, Relatively Higher Maintenance Costs, Better Performance, Lower FE (compared to City) - Rapid and Vento (Vento looks better to me personally but Rapid is better overall)

P.S: All the 3 cars have their own niggles and problems.

There are two ownership reports of SV and VX models on the forum itself, do check them out. I am pasting the links below:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...-shifters.html

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...e-unicorn.html

Also check out the Vento and City Automatic comparo on Zigwheels. I hope this is not violating any Team-BHP policy. I would not like to get another infraction.

https://www.zigwheels.com/reviews-ad...parison/18146/

Did you got it done? How much did it cost you and finally did you notice any difference in noise level? I already have two things planned for 3M and is getting tempted to get this third thing added as the 3M Baner is offering 10% discount on getting 3 treatments at once.

Unfortunately, something came up and I couldn't get it done. Hopefully, will find time soon.

Hello, The Brutailer.
Sorry for bringing back an old post.
I had noticed the same problem in the first 6 months of my car's ownership. I personally feel it is due to dust settling in between the brake pads and the brake discs. Usually, it disappears after 10kms of running or after a car wash.

The rattle depends on where it is coming from.
Usually, metal objects in the dashboard compartments cause rattling. It can be solved by felt-lining the compartments (done here)
If it is coming from the area behind the ICE, then it is a common problem and most owners chose to live with it (as I have) or get it fixed from the ASC (it involves removing of the entire dashboard, hence most owners don't want another 3 rattles after solving one)

Honda does not provide any DRL or even headlights/taillights as OEM Accessories. The DRLs (inside the headlamps or on the fog lamp bezels) are accessories from third party manufacturers and a good variety of them are present in the market. Some owners even get the DRLs fitted by FNGs into the stock headlamp housing.

Some dealerships (in order to make extra cash and so that they may not lose the customer) have their own stock of various headlamps, taillamps, and DRLs, which they fit onto a customer's car. Some dealers even allow fitting of aftermarket components on their customer cars (for an extra fee) so that they don't lose the customer and the customer does not lose the Manufacturer Warranty.

I have had some problem with the braking, and the problem I had was that the braking bite was not sufficient after start up for the initial first few kilometers. The only solution I had was to press the brake pedal fully when starting up the car. After this, I had no issues whatsoever with the braking. I hope this helps.

I usually keep the tire pressure at 32psi all round (nitrogen filled). I used to keep this pressure for my old set of tires (175/65 R15) and for my present set (195/60 R15).

I had played around quite a bit on the 175/65s before I settled on 32psi all round. I found the ride quality a little uncomfortable at 35 psi (front) and 33psi (rear). With 32psi (front) and 30psi (rear), the car felt sluggish with 4-5 passengers on board.

By the way, which model of the City do you have and which variant?

Hello, Hemanth.anand.
I would like to know whether your brother-in-law had changed the tires on his City and which upsize did he take, the 195/60 or the 205/60 and which make/brand?
If you don't mind, I would also like to know how is the ride after the tire swap.

Hello, //M6.
I have fitted the Door Visors from an aftermarket brand (Galio) which also has a chrome bordering on the top part of the door visors (where it makes contact with the door). I fitted this after seeing the same on Distinguished-BHPian RavenAvi's Empress (City i-DTEC V variant) (link).
I personally feel the Door Visors from the official accessory list of Honda is way too expensive (approx 4500rs)
After having the same Galio Door Visors for about 2.5 years, the chrome lining has peeled off (my fault as I 90% of the time park my car in the sun).

A member has installed the Auto-fold OVRM, but he had procured the part from Thailand or Malaysia and got it fixed in his car here. The post is in the same Official Review Thread, But I am unable to find it. (I think it was BHPian anilagdr, not sure. The post was about a year back)

Hello, Namitkumar.
I had gotten the 3M underbody coating with 5-year warranty from the Dealership when I purchased the car. Initially, for about 2 years or so, the sound deading properties was very good and the rear wheel well (which has no cladding and exposes the metal with the colour of the car) was black, due to the colour of the underbody coating. Now the underbody coating as 75% worn off.

Points to remember when going for the underbody coating from 3M.
- The warranty is NOT Pan-India. It is only valid from the place you get the coating done. (My case Honda dealership in Kerala.) The underbody will only be checked by the same dealership where you get it done (No 3M car care center; not even by other Honda dealerships/ authorized service centers).
- The 5-year warranty is only valid if you get your underbody checked every 6 months from the SAME dealer/workshop/3M car care center. Other establishments will NOT CHECK the underbody. (Not even Honda ASC). My coating has worn off due to this point, as I keep roaming about from place to place, no Honda ASC and 3M care center will check it. They said, if they are re-doing the underbody coating, from then on they will check.)
- If there is a chip/loss of underbody coating in the 6-month check up, you have to pay for the respray. (It is mentioned in the warranty card they issue you.

Just giving you the points.

Hello, Darthvader.

This was a HOT topic discussed by Team-BHPians all over the forum in Janurary 2014 (when the new city was launched).

For the comparo, there are various reasons why people want a car; and frankly, no one should buy a car without a test drive.

I drive a Manual petrol, but after reading most of the City vs Vento vs Rapid vs Verna debates, these are the highlights. (only relevant points)

Honda City:
- All Rounder
- 1.5 NA Petrol + CVT Gearbox (7-speed) noturious for rubberband effect on hard acceleration. A light foot and the gearbox is super smooth.
- Paddle-shifters (only in top end VX)
- Fuel Efficiency

Volkswagen Vento
- Solid Build inside-out
- Turbo 1.2 Petrol + DSG Gearbox (7 speed) Amazing lightening fast shifts feel just like your talking with your car. A slight lag while starting the car from neutral.
- Volkswagen Aftersales (hit or a miss depending on the dealership)
- DSG gearbox failures (seems to be taken care of for the most part)

Skoda Rapid
- Solid Build inside-out
- Facelift makes the car a baby Octavia
- 1.6 NA Petrol + 6-speed Torque Converter gearbox (old school AT, poor fuel efficiency)
- Skoda Aftersales (hit or a miss, depending on the dealership; more notorious than Volkswagen)
- The 1.5 Diesel has the DSG gearbox. This DSG gearbox is less prone to failures (dry dual clutch system; not 100% sure)

Maruti Suzuki Ciaz
- 1.4 NA petrol + 4-speed torque converter

Hyundai Verna
- 1.6 NA petrol + 4-speed torque converter.
- 1.6 Diesel + 4-speed torque converter.

These are just the basic points of the C-Segment AT war. At the end of the day, you have to pick an AT that suits you and your driving style.