[adarsh76]

Originally Posted by Scorpion 10

5900/- is the final price from DBS, Kochi.
Did tire mechanic check the condition of the unused spare tire?

Please do check the manufacturing date. Don't accept anything older than 6 months. It's a matter of only 300 - 400 rupees difference per tire.

Obviously, the cost would be higher in TVM owing to the transportation costs. Michelins are imported from Thailand. This has to reach TVM from Cochin or Mangalore or Mumbai.

Yes, the condition of the spare tire was checked. No bulges or cracks. Instead of buying a spare tire, I think its advisable to go for a portable air compressor, so that the spare need not be used.

[for_cars1]

Originally Posted by naikameya

....

Upgraded to Primacy 3 ST 195/60/R15 from XM1 175/65/R15.
......
2. Primacy is definitely quite than xm1 since I drive another car with xm tyres.
3. The grip levels are definitely better and handling has improved immensely.

7. I was not able to check fuel efficiency since I did some spirited driving.  The MID read 16.6 instead of 17.1 from previous trip.

Anybody wanting to upgrade should go for primacy instead of xm2 since the price difference is really small around 250 bucks per tyre.....

Wanted to share my experience after upgrading to Michelin XM2 195/60/R15 from MRF ZVTV 175/65/R15.

I've been using the XM2 for the last 15K KMs and have filled air at 33 PSI on 4 tyres throughout.

1. The road noise has considerably reduced on the XM2 especially at higher speeds
2. Handling has slightly improved, the handling was pretty ok with the lower size ZVTVs too.

3. Logically with wider tyres, I was expecting the fuel efficiency to go down, haven't noticed any drop with the XM2 195 in city runs (16.5 to 18.5 kmpl) In fact, the fuel efficiency has improved by about 1 to 1.5 kmpl on highway runs (averaging 22kmpl at 100 to 105kmph).
This is definitely due to the noiseless low rolling resistance of the XM2.

4. I have a hunch that the lower rolling resistance might actually be leading to a lower grip. On a couple of occasions, hard braking from 120kmph felt skittish. However braking from lower speeds (110kmph) and below has felt quite stable. I'm a bit skeptical about the high speed grip levels in the XM2 (grip is good upto 110kmph). The ZVTV 175 was pretty grippy as well, but they wore out pretty fast, were flimsy carbon based tyres landing up with frequent punctures and lasted only 31K KM.

The primary difference is that the XM2 is actually designed for our road conditions and is made of harder rubber compound (read more durable and longer lasting), compared to Primacy which has softer rubber compund (relatively less durable but more comfortable and grippier). Overall, I'm very happy with the performance and robustness of Michellin XM2, touch wood.

[adarsh76]

Originally Posted by Shreyans_Jain

It comes from experience and you'll have to play with the pressures to find what works for you. Personally, I am happy to sacrifice a bit on performance and FE for cushy ride quality.

I'd like to add that the tires on both my Hondas have clocked over 35k km already and look good for another 20000km minimum.

Exactly, we need to work out with the pressures and see. I checked with one of my friend who is an automobile engineer employed with Maruti Suzuki. He'd also recommended me to write a mail to Honda about the Goodyear GT3 tires failing at 31000 kms. For a top end model, they should not provide an inferior quality tire. Having said that, the GT3 did not have a puncture even once. Also, as per him Michelin Primacy 3ST is the best all rounder tires now in India. Honda is providing these tires to BR-V I guess.

As per him, go with the manufacturer recommended tire pressures. Drive for a few days say 2 weeks. If ride comfort is causing issues drop 1 PSI for both front and rear. And do a similar thing if required after next 2 weeks.

I did a research on the internet if there is a converter to arrive at the pressure for up sized tires. But there is nothing. It all depends on our driving comfort and see how the tires fare up with the pressures we'd set.

[Scorpion 10]

Honda City 2017 Price List - Kochi, Kerala

[adarsh76]

Originally Posted by Scorpion 10

Honda City 2017 Price List - Kochi, Kerala

The on road price for my VX CVT in May 2014 was 12.6 lakhs. The VX CVT now costs 15 lakhs plus. Whopping !!! Even if I add the new AVN system costing 40,000, new diamond cut alloys say about 40,000, projector lamps at say 25,000??, still the price is way lower.

Can't do a comparison of the same sort with ZX tough. It has a very important feature of 6 airbags and those cannot be installed.

[adarsh76]

Originally Posted by adarsh76

The on road price for my VX CVT in May 2014 was 12.6 lakhs. The VX CVT now costs 15 lakhs plus. Whopping !!! Even if I add the new AVN system costing 40,000, new diamond cut alloys say about 40,000, projector lamps at say 25,000??, still the price is way lower.

Can't do a comparison of the same sort with ZX tough. It has a very important feature of 6 airbags and those cannot be installed.

Would like to get the Automatic Dimming Interior rear view mirror fitted available on the ZX. I guess the cost would be in the range of 10,000.

[kaviprem]

I got my City the 1 year service [20,000 KMs]. Oh yeah, its an year passed by already. But, not 20K KMs. My ODO stands at 11,000 KMs. But, this includes around 45 days of idle time [in multiple patches] due to my out-of-country visits. If not, another 3000+ KMs easily.

Every work that had to be done were on regular maintenance only, including Wheel alignment/balancing.
The total bill came up to INR 9,796/- Is this how the first year service bill would be for Honda City CVT?

Can someone [who went through recently] share their 1st year service total bill amount please?

Prem.

[tejas08]

Originally Posted by Sree73

Be careful. The max allowable speed for Honda city in 2nd gear is 71 KMPH and 93 KMPH for diesel / petrol respectively.

Max. Allowable speed is something I am hearing for the first time. Its the Revv limiter that kicks in at Red-Line and for a petrol that Revv Limiter kicks in at about 100-101 kmph. I am running upsized tyres although only 195/60 with minimum error on Speedometer, so 100 kmph on 2nd Gear is definitely touched.

Originally Posted by avdhesh15

Not really. I honestly believe the Honda City offers one of the best acceleration in its price bracket. My car never fails to leave a smile on my face!

Definitely every time I floor that Accelerator.

Originally Posted by naikameya

4. As of now the tyres do not foul with any part of the car

No Issues here. Have been using 195/60 from Day 1 of Purchase. Done 37K Kms till date and the tyre profile is almost perfect for City. Changes the stance of the car completely against those puny 175/65s.

Originally Posted by adarsh76

The on road price for my VX CVT in May 2014 was 12.6 lakhs. The VX CVT now costs 15 lakhs plus. Whopping !!! Even if I add the new AVN system costing 40,000, new diamond cut alloys say about 40,000, projector lamps at say 25,000??, still the price is way lower.

Can't do a comparison of the same sort with ZX tough. It has a very important feature of 6 airbags and those cannot be installed.

Not defending the pricing of Honda City here. It's Definitely Overpriced. But it was so even in 2014.

So 40K for AVN, 40K for Alloys and 25K for LED Headlamps (Correction there, not projectors but VX has LED Headlamps). Thats 1.05L. Add to it a 4% escalation for three years and the price is 15.3 Lakhs. So why is 4% Escalation Y-O-Y such a wrong thing. To add to it, its not only these three things that have changed.

[adarsh76]

Originally Posted by tejas08

Not defending the pricing of Honda City here. It's Definitely Overpriced. But it was so even in 2014.

So 40K for AVN, 40K for Alloys and 25K for LED Headlamps (Correction there, not projectors but VX has LED Headlamps). Thats 1.05L. Add to it a 4% escalation for three years and the price is 15.3 Lakhs. So why is 4% Escalation Y-O-Y such a wrong thing. To add to it, its not only these three things that have changed.

Agreed to that. Some additional things also interested me. Auto folding ORVM, Auto dimming IRVM etc. Still if we do not consider the 4% escalation, prices are not justified.

However, the prices would be justified if the build quality is fool proof now. Any more of dashboard rattling, alternator noises and other minor niggles cannot be permitted at this price range . This is now a next segment pricing.

[Scorpion 10]

Originally Posted by Scorpion 10

Honda City 2017 Price List - Kochi, Kerala

Originally Posted by adarsh76

The on road price for my VX CVT in May 2014 was 12.6 lakhs. The VX CVT now costs 15 lakhs plus. Whopping !!! Even if I add the new AVN system costing 40,000, new diamond cut alloys say about 40,000, projector lamps at say 25,000??, still the price is way lower.

Can't do a comparison of the same sort with ZX tough. It has a very important feature of 6 airbags and those cannot be installed.

Not a gizmo freak or a big fan of cosmetic changes but, as posted earlier, if the new version is niggle free with solid build and refined engine I would consider an upgrade or recommend others irrespective of the price variation.

[Rocketscience]

Have been noticing this strange thing with my City (D) from quite sometime now
Whenever i have to reach a complete halt and i have enough space to come to a stop , i usually shift to neutral from speeds of about 30 KM/h , so now during that time the RPM goes to about 500 and the engine obviously starts to vibrate and then when the car comes to a stop it immediately shoots back to 1000 before getting normal.
Once i was stopping from 40 KM/h and lightly pressed the brake pedal and the engine vibrated violently in neutral in all that 5-6 seconds taken to stop. (Difficult to properly explain and re-create the situation)
What could be at fault here ? I noticed this in my petrol i20 too in the past but not any other cars.

Originally Posted by Scorpion 10

Not a gizmo freak or a big fan of cosmetic changes but, as posted earlier, if the new version is niggle free with solid build and refined engine I would consider an upgrade or recommend others irrespective of the price variation.

Have'nt read anywhere yet that they improved the build quality in this one and the niggle free nature is yet to be tested (Not that the previous version had any major issues but small niggles were very much there) and ACI review states that clatter is still very much there and there have been no tweaks done to suspension either. Road noise is still present.
And although there is nothing wrong with the car but having lived with it for about 3 years and 30,000 KMs now , i certainly am not in a state of recommending it to anyone. I love the looks though , the tweaks are done perfectly and enhance the already good looking design and one of very few cars in my opinion which does'nt ruin or overdo the facelift and got it right.

[for_cars1]

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

...
Whenever i have to reach a complete halt and i have enough space to come to a stop , i usually shift to neutral from speeds of about 30 KM/h
Once i was stopping from 40 KM/h and lightly pressed the brake pedal and the engine vibrated violently in neutral in all that 5-6 seconds taken to stop...

Coasting to a halt in neutral is not the expected way to stop mainly from a safety perspective.
It is always recommended to stay in the appropriate gear and apply the clutch only just before coming to a stop and then neutral gear can be engaged.

In modern ECU equipped cars, in addition to our accelerator input varying the engine rpm, the ECU also regulates the RPM for optimization, for eg., while climbing up a ramp in 1st gear with the feet off the accelerator, the ECU raises the RPM automatically to about 1K rpm to generate the necessary torque to climb up (in City Diesel).

Your style of bringing the car to a halt is definitely sending confusing signals to the ECU and it is erratically raising the RPM. You could ask the A.S.S to reset your ECU and see if the problem persists. Nevertheless, its better to give up the coasting habit and bring the car to a halt in the standard expected way.

[Ruchir031]

Originally Posted by kaviprem

I got my City the 1 year service [20,000 KMs]. Oh yeah, its an year passed by already. But, not 20K KMs. My ODO stands at 11,000 KMs. But, this includes around 45 days of idle time [in multiple patches] due to my out-of-country visits. If not, another 3000+ KMs easily.

Every work that had to be done were on regular maintenance only, including Wheel alignment/balancing.
The total bill came up to INR 9,796/- Is this how the first year service bill would be for Honda City CVT?

Can someone [who went through recently] share their 1st year service total bill amount please?

Prem.

I recently got my 20k service done when the ODO was at 17,000 KMs. Total bill was of INR 5,346/- I didn't go for balancing/alignment as it can be done at half the rate from anywhere but Honda.
They were also adding additional stuff such as injectors cleaning, exhaust cleaning and what not which I strictly refused for. They however yet did throttle body cleaning and EBD without my permission which costed additional 1.2k. I had no time and energy to waste fighting with them for it so I let it go, otherwise the bill could have been below 4k for the service.

Next time you go for a service strictly tell them only to follow what's in the manual and nothing additional. Also if possible get balancing/alignment done from anywhere but the ASC, will save you over 50% of what they charge.

[Rocketscience]

Originally Posted by for_cars1

Coasting to a halt in neutral is not the expected way to stop mainly from a safety perspective.
It is always recommended to stay in the appropriate gear and apply the clutch only just before coming to a stop and then neutral gear can be engaged.

In modern ECU equipped cars, in addition to our accelerator input varying the engine rpm, the ECU also regulates the RPM for optimization, for eg., while climbing up a ramp in 1st gear with the feet off the accelerator, the ECU raises the RPM automatically to about 1K rpm to generate the necessary torque to climb up (in City Diesel).

Your style of bringing the car to a halt is definitely sending confusing signals to the ECU and it is erratically raising the RPM. You could ask the A.S.S to reset your ECU and see if the problem persists. Nevertheless, its better to give up the coasting habit and bring the car to a halt in the standard expected way.

Thanks , will try the ECU reset and about the halt thing , most of the times it is in the appropriate gear.
Just when there is enough space to safely halt (before stopping at a traffic signal usually)
then in the last few seconds (like i said when the car reaches speeds of about 30KM/h or lower) i shift to neutral and bring the car to a complete halt , never realised it is incorrect to do so.I always felt this is the natural way to come to halt otherwise the engine would stall.
(although my memory is faint about this but i remember stalling our Honda Civic a couple of times when i was a new driver when it was in second or third gear and i brought it to complete stop without engaging neutral , so i started engaging neutral a little before coming to a complete stop since then and have'nt really looked back)

Anyways the point was that with same kind of driving in every other car it usually does'nt happen and even with City it started just a few months ago.

Also the RPM reduces to about 500 (and the engine vibrates , which brought it to my notice) at that time and does'nt increase.

[Sree73]

Originally Posted by tejas08

Max. Allowable speed is something I am hearing for the first time. Its the Revv limiter that kicks in at Red-Line and for a petrol that Revv Limiter kicks in at about 100-101 kmph. I am running upsized tyres although only 195/60 with minimum error on Speedometer, so 100 kmph on 2nd Gear is definitely touched.

A reproduction from Honda City Owners manual found online. These are calculated with respect to engine speeds in each gear. So, if these speeds are crossed in each gear, will be exceeding the specified engine RPM.