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-   -   4th-gen Honda City : Official Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/145656-4th-gen-honda-city-official-review-367.html)

If we get cladding material in required shape ,then it should be easy.
We can use 3M velcro tape on metal side and stick cladding using velcro lol:.
This velcro is available at:
http://www.amazon.in/3M-51111976296-...dual+lock+tape

I have been through the Honda City Manual at least a couple of times and I haven't come across any such thing in the Manual

And technically, the Rev-Limiter is set at 7200 RPM and the Peak Power of 117 BHP is @ 6600 RPM. So as per me revving upto 7000 RPM occasionally should not be a problem.

Technically, this is your 60K Kms / 36 Months Service and not a 30K Kms Service. Could you share the Bill Break-Up here please. Anything done other than Engine Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter Change?

I would like to see what the description comes up on the Service Invoice for the Synthetic Oil. Is it full Synthetic or Semi Synthetic?

I'm not able to use the cruise control function properly. That is, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I always try to activate in 5th gear but mostly it doesn't work. What could I be doing wrong? Any particular minimum speed/rpm? Do I need to keep the accelerator/clutch pressed?

Cruise control can be activated anytime after you have reached the speed of 40 which is the minimum speed required. I usually activate it at 60 in 5th gear and then increase speed as per road conditions. Simple procedure to follow is -
Press cruise control button.
Then press set.
Now you can increase and decrease speed as you want. If you press brake then just hit resume and it will be back to its speed. Very simple and in 2.5 years it has always worked in my car.

Not sure if this myth still holds true for modern cars. Here is an interesting piece of article/q&A about running the car on low fuel:

"Does driving on 'empty' hurt the engine?
q_v2.gifDear Terry,
With gas as expensive as it is, I've been driving my car until the gas light comes on. But this goes against everything my dad taught me.
He said to never let your gas go below a quarter of a tank, otherwise you could get dirt in your engine and ruin your car.

Is he right, or does he just not want me to run out of gas?
-- Riding Dirty

a_v2.gifDear Riding,
Dear old Dad may have been right about many things, but when it comes to modern vehicles, he has this one mostly wrong.

Almost all cars have their fuel pumps installed inside the gas tank and the pump picks up the fuel from the lowest part of the tank, so you can get almost every last drop from the tank.

If there is a lot of dirt and debris -- say, from a corroding fuel tank -- that gunk would normally settle to the bottom and be picked up by the fuel pump regardless of how much fuel was in the tank.

But modern fuel pumps have a protective screen or porous sock-like cover that catches any contaminants before they enter the fuel system. And those small bits that might get through would normally be caught by a second filter closer to the engine.

Back in the day, when manufacturers were churning out cars with very little rust protection, it was possible that after four or five years there could be some corrosion on the inside of the gas tank that could result in sediment. But most gas tanks these days are not prone to such issues.

Where your dad may have been right is that you should always try to never run out of gas. That fuel pump inside the gas tank relies of the gasoline to keep it lubricated and cool, and if you frequently run out of gas you could cause the pump to fail.

The good news is that the "low fuel" light comes on when there's anywhere from 1 to 2 gallons left, which is plenty to keep the pump safe.

So it's OK to run the tank down to where the warning light comes on, but you should then get gas as soon as possible."



Read more: http://www.bankrate.com/finance/auto...#ixzz4ZKBULmeH

Here are my observations after riding with the up sized (195/60 R15) Michelin P3ST.

Tire Pressure: 32 Front and 30 Rear
Kilometers driven: 297.3 (80% city conditions and 20% close to highway conditions)
AC: Auto set at 25 degrees (ECON mode used only at Signals and bumper to bumper traffic conditions)
Passengers: 2
MID FE: 12.8 kms/l
Manual Calculation: 297.3 kms /23.3 liters of Petrol = 12.76 kms/l

No decrease in FE at all. Considering that the traffic conditions were more after I up sized, guess that there is an actual improvement in FE.

Ride Quality has improved. Car is taking on the rough roads much more comfortably than the previous Goodyear GT3. Handling has improved and seems keeping on improving. Feeling much more confident now. Road noise is the highlight. Smooth roads there is no noise at all. On rougher roads some sound is still there but it's kind of a muted sound.Not irritating like before.

Reduced the tire pressure to 31 Front and 29 Rear. At these pressures, feeling more grip. Filled fuel full tank today morning and at the end of a 10 km journey the MID is at 14.1 kms/l (60% city and 40% close to highway conditions).

Overall, very much satisfied at the moment. I don't see any reason why Honda is not offering these tire sizes as standard.

Honda City (Grace) sold in Japan uses the same tyre size as in the new City ZX. The engine on offer makes 132 PS and still the tyre is puny.

How much difference in fuel economy will it make if they increase the width of that tyre by 1 cm? I dont think the main reason for thinner tyres is fuel efficiency. Maybe the design characteristic of the car is such that it performs optimally with a thinner tyre. Also, since Japanese safety regulations are pretty stringent, there is no reason to believe that thinner tyres is unsafe. If only Michelin made P3ST in 175/185 size. stupid:

How long did your Goodyear last?

My car has XM1 and I am really impressed by P3ST which a friend has on his 3rd gen City. But I am confused if i should stick to the same size or go for P3ST.

Goodyear lasted 31000 kms. It had still some center tread left in all 4 tyres, but there were bulges. Driving with bulges causes uncomfortable ride as well as damage to shocks.

I have seen many BHPians up sizing to 195/60 on the same day of delivery. I have not seen any issues reported so far. P3ST is a good one from the driving I had so far.

There have been comments that Michelin tires are softer and hence may not last in Indian conditions. The tires are made in Thailand and also I came to know that the sidewall has been stiffened for tires which are exported to India.

My car had Xm1 too on delivery and they are really good tires. I will suggest to use them.

Goodyear's usually have a really short life as on our Manza also they never go beyond 30k of usage. Who ever gets them on delivery I will always suggest to swap asap. I don't agree that Michelin tires may not last in our conditions. I recently changed the Xm1 on our City after running them for 59300km. They still had a
5k running life in them but I had a highway trip coming so didn't wanted to risk it. Got Xm2 with 195/60/R15 and they have been simply great so far.
These were my first time experiences with Michelin and i must say they are miles ahead of other brands. Definitely worth paying extra for them.

Booked the 2017 Honda City VMT. Will be getting delivery next week. Will be looking at exchanging the 15 inch alloys and Bridgestone tyres to Black alloys and 195 michelins immediately post delivery. Hopefully will get a good buy back value since the alloys itself cost 11k each at Honda :)

Congrats buddy. Would be interesting to gauge your feedback (esp on the quality, fit, finish of the interiors) considering you will have the refreshed City from initial batches just like the way mine is from 2014.

The i-Dtec engine of Honda City has a fixed geometry turbocharger. Any reason why they did not plonk a variable geometry turbocharger in there?
Looks like both the power and the torque increase by 20-25% with a VGT from what we observe in other cars.

Thanks and sure I will.

On a different note can someone please please please help me with the headlamp and fog lamp specifications of the 2017 Honda City V variant (non led ones ). My friend is travelling from Germany next week and I was looking at getting NB lasers through him. The dealership nor the Honda helpline could help me with this.please:

The i-DTEC Diesel on the Honda City is perfectly mated to a 6 speed gearbox with well sorted gear ratios that brings out the best in the engine. The torque and power delivery is linear and ample, there is simply no need to include a VGT and unnecessarily increase cost.
If the power was inadequate, then adding a VGT would make sense, but its not the case in the Diesel City.

The easy way of doing it will be to check up the user manual at the dealership itself since the number of folks who have already taken delivery on this forum wont be many. On another note, i am curious to know which is this laser version of Osram Night Breaker.