Team-BHP - 4th-gen Honda City : Official Review

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moto$apien (Post 4615438)

But, why no Engine Honda?

Because engine bay is not usually included when the term ‘inside of a car’ is used. It is the compartment/cabin in which people actually spend their time while ‘inside’ a car. So to the people who care more about ‘the inside’ of a car, the passenger cabin is the ONLY right thing to be shown. Hope it is now clarified why engine is not shown.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pavi (Post 4615461)

Because engine bay is not usually included when the term ‘inside of a car’ is ...Hope it is now clarified why engine is not shown.

Hehe.. Thanks for the Clarification on the Marketing brief clap:

But, then why show only the engine base plate, Radiator and Exhaust pipe only?

And No Offence, to a petrolhead like me, Engine is one of THE most important thing 'Inside of a car', so shared it.

Honda should know better, as it is their engines which made the brand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhn (Post 4612292)

I still do not see any issues with the liner stuck with 3M tape and it's still holding on well for now. Do let me know the points where you put the additional clips as I am unable to locate the same.

I fixed the Boot cladding with 3M tape and completed the DIY job today.

There are no holes to put the additional clips. So only used tape.
Surprisingly, the tape stuck well to the cladding fabric but was not adhering well (initially) to the metal and finally stuck to the metal after applying pressure.

My thoughts after installing the boot cladding are:
1 It is really not necessary to have the cladding. The boot-lid is spring loaded to make it light so that its easier to lift. Adding this cladding which is rather heavy upsets that original spring balance and makes the lid heavier than the spring tension is set to handle, hence the boot lid is eager to shut while bringing it down. Not a real issue, but the original balance which gives the illusion that the boot lid is paper light is a bit lost.

2. The cladding fibrous fabric material is very smelly (in an allergic sort of way) I mean it was a bit irritating to the nose when I was installing it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moto$apien (Post 4615505)

Honda should know better, as it is their engines which made the brand....

Apart from the engines, space management is rather excellent in a Honda. For instance, in the City, how they managed to scoop out so much headroom, legroom and a 510 L Bootspace in that footprint is a miracle :)

My heart is broken friends. Got some big scratches on the car. And the reason is me. Couldn't realize the gap between the car on my left in a bumper to bumper and door to door traffic on the Pali road near T-point on Faridabad-Gurgaon road (also known as pahadi rasta). :Frustrati

Right now I am sitting in service center for second free service. Asked them to see if rubbing can help. They are saying scratches will fade a little but won't go away. A guy at petrol pump was providing a solution that could remove scratches. Wasn't convinced so didn't take it.

Can anyone help if these can be taken care of? I have loaded booty of my City beautiful with .many accessories and can add some tonic that can remove scratches. Please help and I am sure I will get helped by someone here please:

Here is the damage:

4th-gen Honda City : Official Review-img_20190706_093358.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lakwontsing (Post 4616166)

..Asked them to see if rubbing can help. They are saying scratches will fade a little but won't go away. A guy at petrol pump was providing a solution that could remove scratches. Wasn't convinced so didn't take it.

There are 3 distinct layers on top of the bare metal namely the metal primer, the base coat (which is the actual color) and the topmost layer which is the clearcoat (which gives it that lustre).

If the depth of the scratch is superficial ie., only scratched into the clearcoat layer, then rubbing or buffing will get rid of the scratch.

You can check whether it is a clearcoat scratch by a simple test. Clean the area and simply wet the area with water and if the scratch is not visible when wet, then its a clearcoat scratch.

The rubbing or buffing action basically removes the clearcoat material and evens it out around the scratch so that light reflects evenly and the scratch is no longer visible.

If the scratch has passed through the clearcoat and into the base coat or even deeper into the primer, then rubbing or buffing will not help. In this case, there is no option but to get the panel repainted or to live with the scratches. Any attempt to touch up with a brush will make it look very ugly in this case.

If it is unfortunately a base coat or primer level scratch (determined from the water test) an you do decide to get it repainted, better to avoid the option of getting it done outside no matter how low they quote. The finish will never match the OEM color and quality. Only the authorized service paint boot although expensive, has a better chance of ensuring OEM paint match.

Quote:

Originally Posted by for_cars1 (Post 4616320)

There are 3 distinct layers on top of the bare metal namely the metal primer, the base coat (which is the actual color) and the topmost layer which is the clearcoat (which gives it that lustre).

It turned out to be harmless to great extent. The finishing service at the end of washing and cleaning removed the issue. So the scratch seemed to have been on the top layer only. "Seene wich thand pai gayi" :D after seeing this:

4th-gen Honda City : Official Review-img_20190706_123223.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lakwontsing (Post 4616166)

Sorry to see! Best solution get it rubbed & polished and live with it: other difficult solution is to repaint both LHS doors. If I were you, I'd get it rubbed and polished and live with it!

A Deep Dive Technical Question for folks on this Forum. I am looking at an ICE Upgrade for my 2014 Honda City V Variant. Most after market fitments do not have a compatible Bluetooth Mic. For the V Variant the Bluetooth Mic is placed in the roof above the IRVM and the sound quality/reception for Bluetooth calls is very good.

Below is a picture of the back view of the OEM HeadUnit that comes with the 2014 Honda city.

4th-gen Honda City : Official Review-honda_city_2014_ice.png

2014 Honda City V Variant - OEM Head Unit

Does anyone know which one of the five plugs at the back is the one for Bluetooth Microphone? I have numbered them from 1 to 5 for convenience and is there a adapter available that converts a standard 3.5 mm Jack type of Bluetooth Microphone to the correct one on the back panel shown?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhn (Post 4612292)

Meanwhile, I finally installed the Automatic Rain and Light sensor for the car and it works flawlessly. Just the correct sensitivity has to be adjusted for the rain sensor and it will be complete. Waiting for the rains to pour once again to test. No wires were cut here and the entire system is plug and play. Overall, almost a ZX variant except for the spoiler and 4 additional airbags.

This looks fab, good stuff clap:

Quick Q though. The lights turned on when you covered the sensor, so that suggest it was day time otherwise. Why did it not turn off when you removed your hand? Does it need to be done manually? OR did I miss an important point completely?

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jugz (Post 4617573)

The lights do not turn off immediately upon uncovering the sensor since it's designed to be that way. When driving through underpasses or tunnels and the moment one exits the tunnel, the lights stay on for a few seconds before switching off. It does turn off but the parking lights remain on.

Also, since the car was parked in the garage, due to less light, the sensor believes it's evening time and switches on only the parking light. However, the headlight is not switched on. Only when the light intensity falls below a certain point, the headlights come on automatically.

Finally picked up my City ZX MT in Radiant Red. One of the first things I did was to change the tyres. The car came with Bridgestone Ecopia. I have now upgraded to Pirelli P1 195/55/16. Reason for choosing Pirelli was that I had the same tyres on my Polo and was more than happy with the performance. Not sure how they would perform on a bigger car though initial impressions ar good. Little bumpier than Bridgestone but that might be due to the fact that the pressure is set to 33.While the car is obviously great to drive , there are few things I still need to get used to , such as, the headrest being a little uncomfortable.

In continuation to my previous query, I've noticed some rattling sound when driven over rough roads. I did a test ride with my local mechanic and found the issue was with the suspension set-up as such and he mentioned it wasn't a matter of immediate concern. The car is in her third year and extended warranty was opted as well.
Also I've upsized my tyres to 195/60 R15s. Will this affect my warranty claim status?
What'll be procedure to get this process done?
Contacted Sundaram Honda, Madurai and the service advisor said that road test would be done and in case fault is found, spares would be covered under warranty claim and would take a days work to get the car back.
If in case I've to pay for the same out of my pocket, do I go with the OEM (please do mention the average cost as well) or opt for aftermarket suspension parts? If aftermarket parts are better which one do I go with?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aravind_M92 (Post 4617805)

Not sure if it matters in your case, but the suspension warranty is only 40k kms. Hope your car has done lesser than that..

Tyre upsize could make things tricky. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck!