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-   -   Hyundai Elite i20 : Official Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/155025-hyundai-elite-i20-official-review-154.html)

Anyone here completed 50 k service for elite i20 crdi? If so, what all work was done?
Gave mine for service today morning. SA called just now and gave me a long list of issues with the car. Service bill is going to be a hefty one.
EGR, wastegate, turbo, intercooler all needs cleaning as there is oil and carbon in them. Estimate is 5.5 k for this alone.
Clutch is almost gone, will last for another 10k km. Will have to change it at 60k km. Expected bill is around 16k...

Clutch in my Petrol i20 seems to be packing in. The mileage has suddenly dropped and I feel the clutch is juddering especially on inclines especially in bumper to bumper traffic. Is there any other way to find out if the clutch has gone? I am surprised because the car has just done 16K km. My last car was a diesel and I had changed the clutch at 45K km.

The car is under extended warranty so will they replace the clutch under that or I will have to pay for it? If I need to pay then I might as well get it done by my FNG who does a much better job than the ASS.

There is no fixed lifetime for clutch plate and it depends mostly on driving style and driving conditions. I know a guy who fried clutch plate of his new swift after 4k . On the other hand, some people easily manage more than 80 k.

Since you are not a newbie, I guess you don't do much half clutching in bumper to bumper traffic. Did anyone else learn driving or drive your car recently? If you are sure that no one drove your car in bad way, better get it checked.


This won't be covered under warranty as it's expected to get worn out over time. Even though FNG will be cheeper option, it's always good to go for authorized service center as long as your car is in warranty period. Otherwise, they would later use this as an excuse to reject your warranty claims in future even if it's an unrelated repair.

So the 50k km service bill for my 2014 elite i20 crdi came to 15600 rs. Following issues were identified and rectified :
EGR valve, intercooler and turbo needed cleaning, and was disassembled and cleaned. Bill for this alone was 6000
Suspension bushes in stablilizer bar was damaged, replaced.
Boot release switch was damaged, replaced under warranty.
All four injectors cleaned chemically after removing them.
Oil n oil filter change.
Clutch bleeding.
Periodic service
Clutch plates are fine, not much wear in them. Preassure plate seems to b getting harder, resulting in a heavy clutch.

I had my Punto Diesel serviced last month which had run almost 60K. I never had to touch on the EGR valve, intercooler or turbo for the past 6 years.
I am not trying to compare the two cars here, but just out of curiosity, are these things really required after a run of 50K? Or is it another marketing gimmick played by the service centres?

I am worried about the same, asked them whether this was needed or not. One thing to note is the 50k km was added in 3 years, with 40k km in first 2 years.
In the service bill, the cost of this is tagged against an array of parts related to the turbo, intercooler egr valve, solinoids etc. Was told that it is recommended for diesel cars around 40-50k km.
For a difference, the smoke from the car on sudden acceleration has decreased a lot, engine seems to be running a bit smoother and there is a noticable change in engine sound for me.

Hi ps_abhijith! I got my car serviced (Asta CRDi) last Saturday (26th Aug). The car is exactly 2 years and 24 days old and has clocked 43,100 when it was given for service. I usually don't wait for it to clock 10K between service intervals, and hence it was ideally a 50K service that was done.

There was absolutely no EGR valve cleaning, etc etc that was required. I stood there throughout the service duration to keep and eye on everything that was being done. In addition to the regular replacement (oil, oil filter, diesel filter and air filter), I got my calipers cleaned and insisted on the bush replacement for the stabilizer bar (I do it every at every 20K kms.). All in all, I paid 9303/-. About the clutch, I was ready to get the plates replaced but the SA suggested that it can go for another 10K.

I am surprised that you had to get the injectors, etc cleaned so soon as these are usually due at about 80 to 100K. Experts can correct me if I am wrong here.

For the smoke, you can just get the MAP sensor cleaned and the smoke will reduce drastically. Engine sound and smoothness will, by default, increase the moment you get the filter and the engine oil replaced.

Suggest, you should not fall into this trap from next time onward. There are a lot of threads available in Team-BHP which you can go through.

Happy driving!
Rahul

+1 to that.

Surely 40-50k kms do not necessarily warrant touching the turbo/EGR module, solenoids unless you actually had reported specific problems that pointed to lack of power delivery. 40-50k is very normal "average mid-life" running for diesel engines.

Why clutch plates already before 50k? They should last easily upto at least 70k with normal usage I believe?

Precisely! You are bang on point there.

Doesn't work here in Bangalore sir. The SA's words were, "You drive well, the cars normally get the clutch plates changed at 40K, even if the cars are used for both city as well as highway drives. This can go for another 10K". clap:

Of late, the juddering has begun and it worsens during crawling traffic.

Rahul

Yeah I was already thinking "Bangalore!" when I submitted my previous post. :D True indeed. You guys have to use clutch more than even air to breathe. My bad.

I hit this strange problem yesterday for the second time. I have read multiple issues with a/c not working earlier in the thread. Mine is a little different. It happens only when it rains and I think the compressor works just fine but the airflow gets blocked somewhere.

I can hear the a/c working with lot of fan noise coming from the front left hand side but hardly any air coming out of the vents even when a/c fan setting is set to full blast. Very weird. Any ideas on what could be wrong here ?

Note : I did remove the cabin air filter and run the car when this problem was happening, didn't help!

Dear all,

I am new to this forum, though I am a long time reader. This forum has been of great help to me while deciding to purchase my first car. It's been 3 months since I became the owner of an Elite i20. Mine is the Petrol Asta(O) facelifted (after April 2017)variant. I have a rather simple question to the new facelifted version owners. Has anyone managed to get a proper seat cover for this? The Asta(O) variant comes with 6 airbags, and 2 airbags are assembled in the front seats. At the time of purchase, the dealer told me there are no seat covers for this model, and advised me not to put the regular seat covers, as this would prevent the airbags in seat to be deployed. He also informed that Hyundai will soon provide a customized seat cover for this model.

I checked with the dealer recently and was told that only leather ones are available, and the price range starts from 45k. I have checked with many local shops, but to no avail. Just wanted to know whether any new owners of the same variant managed to get a proper seat cover.

I've read on the forums that Stanley manufactures seat covers with support for side airbags. But it's quite expensive, Stanley being a premium boutique, it can easily cross 50k.

Dear All,

I have couple of problems to report on my I20 Elite, petrol. The vehicle has clocked 35k kms

1. When I accelerate beyond 90 kmph, I hear very faint sound. It's something like metals clinging at very high frequency. The sound subsides when I accelerate further beyond 100 kmph

2. When I drive in bumper to bumper traffic at less than 20 kmph for a duration of 10 mins or so, the ac stops working. AC is on and running but the chillness disappears. It returns to normalcy when I am out of traffic and driving beyond 20 kmph

Has anyone come across similar problem? Please throw some light on this

Thank you,

I had faced the AC problem twice. First time, the AC stopped working, I took the car to the FNG where they said that AC Gas level is too low & requires Topup.

I got it done & the AC was back to normal, then after a week, the AC again stopped cooling. This time, I took it to Hyundai ASC, where they again checked the Gas & found to to be sufficient, but the culprit was blown fuse. Hyundai replaced it free of cost & now the AC is working fine since June. This incident occurred in May. I cannot survive without AC especially in a car.

On a different note,

I bought i20 Asta Diesel in January 2015, wanted a premium hatch to accompany my Rapid. There were very few options actually. Vista, Micra, Swift, Ritz, Pulse, Punto, Sail UVA, Polo were the options.

Amongst all these, only Polo & i20 impressed me. With Polo having same interiors as my Rapid & a slightly smaller engine (1.5 vs 1.6), the car didn't feel new. So, i20 was default choice for me.

Post purchase, the car has served me well, but I don't find it pleasing. It isn't a driver's car, its not that spacious & being Diesel it gives me 15 kmpl Overall which is very less IMO considering the number of Diesel cars I have had over the years.

The car that are much better then this i20 (Baleno & Jazz) weren't there at that time, while they are different compared to i20, they offer much bang for the buck which the i20 totally lacks.

I am not discouraging i20 buyers nor the owners of i20, but purely speaking from an ownership point, its an average car & works well for someone seeking a car to reach Point A to B. In fact, my usage has come down drastically after I bought a Tiago last year.