[aditya.86]

Originally Posted by MSC

I am on the verge of booking Asta(O) diesel version. Is the rear AC unit in I20 Elite, just a blower unit or is independent of the front and main AC unit?

Any particular reason you have chosen the diesel over the petrol version? I picked up a Magna Diesel in 2016 and one of the main factors was difference in fuel cost along with a better performing engine.

[MSC]

Originally Posted by aditya.86

Any particular reason you have chosen the diesel over the petrol version? I picked up a Magna Diesel in 2016 and one of the main factors was difference in fuel cost along with a better performing engine.

Nothing special. Just that it will be running almost 1500 to 2000 kms per month. Fuel costs as well as fuel efficiency are definitely primary reasons for diesel. Moreover, there are couple of friends who are not getting more than 13-14 kmpl in petrol. Since car will be 99% driven in hills, so mileage is going to go further southwards.

[aditya.86]

Originally Posted by MSC

Nothing special. Just that it will be running almost 1500 to 2000 kms per month. Fuel costs as well as fuel efficiency are definitely primary reasons for diesel. Moreover, there are couple of friends who are not getting more than 13-14 kmpl in petrol. Since car will be 99% driven in hills, so mileage is going to go further southwards.

Agreed. Anyday the i20 diesel will perform better than the petrol in the hills.

Wish u many happy miles on the new car.

[chiranjitp]

Recently a good friend of mine, who owns a 2016 i20 Asta (O) petrol came to Guwahati to fix a noise from the suspension, as the HASS in his place (Jorhat) couldn't solve the problem. So, we went to the nearest HASS to get the problem fixed. On our way, I found that the car was also pulling violently to the right. My friend then told me that he had done the alignment from a tire shop, I thought maybe the alignment wasn't done properly. So, I checked the tires for uneven wear, surprisingly there was no sign of uneven wear on any of the tires.

The HASS in Guwahati diagnosed that the suspension sound was due to a faulty link rod, they promptly replaced the part under extended warranty. The car had 36k km on the odometer then. Next up was to check the alignment, the SA told us that for new gen Hyundai cars, alignment can only be perfectly set at HASS, as some calibration needs to be done with the diagnostic tool (OBD tool). Upon asking for more details the SA told me that if we were to set the alignment from outside, the car won't have any issues of tire wear but will pull to one side (as the OBD calibration isn't done).

As my friend was running short of time, the SA only did the steering calibration from the OBD. After the steering calibration was done, the steering pull (to the right) simply vanished, they didn't even put her on the ramp. This is the first time I have come across such a thing. Is this system exclusive to Hyundai cars or do some other modern cars have it? Does anyone know why this steering calibration is necessary after an alignment for new gen Hyundai cars?

Here are a few photos of work in progress:

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

...the SA told us that for new gen Hyundai cars, alignment can only be perfectly set at HASS, as some calibration needs to be done with the diagnostic tool (OBD tool). Upon asking for more details the SA told me that if we were to set the alignment from outside, the car won't have any issues of tire wear but will pull to one side (as the OBD calibration isn't done)….

I believe I read about this in some other report as well (about Hyundai). And yes, it seems something particular only for Hyundai. Talk about restricting the service within the confines of A$$.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

the steering pull (to the right) simply vanished, they didn't even put her on the ramp. This is the first time I have come across such a thing. Is this system exclusive to Hyundai cars or do some other modern cars have it? Does anyone know why this steering calibration is necessary after an alignment for new gen Hyundai cars?

Steering angle sensor should be reset in these cars since they have some sort of assisted centering for the steering. Hence, if your alignment shop cant lock the steering in dead straight position before they adjust toe, it will result in a slightly off centered steering. The EPS will read steering angle data from the SAS sensor and apply corrective torque which results in the pull. Hence, usually once the alignment is done, the SAS sensor is reset so that it indicates the steering is centered. This is what was done by dealership which sorted the issue.
It is also necessary on cars which will come with ESP, Active steering etc since they consider steering angle to determine in which direction the car is moving towards along with Yaw.

[motorguy]

What I do for my Elite i20 is I first do the alignment at Nikhil's place (TBHP member) at Madhu's Enterprises. Since Nikhil had mentioned to me sometime back that their Hunter alignment machines do not have the steering sensor calibration, they can do the wheel alignment but not the steering sensor calibration (apparently Hyundai does not want to give the software code for Hunter to incorporate the same in their machines).

So, after doing the alignment at Madhu's, I proceed straight away to the HASS and tell my SA there to connect the Hyundai diagnostic tool and perform the steering sensor calibration using Hyundai's GDS software. I have seen absolutely no problem with doing this (except to make that extra trip to the HASS). Would not trust doing the alignment at a HASS since their machines are old (2nd hand machines bought from Madhu's in my case) and probably not calibrated on a regular basis.
I do not have this issue with my 2010 i10 and do the entire alignment procedure at Madhu's.

[vijayk]

Originally Posted by ps_abhijith

And the reason for the leak or theory of the leak as per my last SA:
I use the car for long highway runs on the weekend only. That’s a 5 hour one way trip with one stop in between. City use is limited to 20-30 km max every week. Most of the time, I keep the ACC on external air mode as on long rides. Whenever I had kept it in recirculation mode, by the end of the trip, my wife and I both had headaches. So to have fresh air inside the car, except for city drives or on traffic blocks, the car would be running mostly on external air. ...

I20 Elite 2014 – Asta Diesel – AC cooling coil replaced:

Car is done with 59K Kms in last 4 years and my extended warranty was over on 5th Sep’18. Exactly 20 days after, just 1000 kms before my 60K service, on 25th Sep’18 morning, there is no cooling when switch on the AC and only the normal air coming out of vents. Same day evening, after office, I went to HMP ASS at Alandur, Chennai to diagnose. Within 5 minutes of inspection, the service engineer told that it is cooling coil break out and requires replacement. My bad as I have to pay for this as the warranty was just over. Left the car in service center and the car is ready immediate next day 26st Sep evening (yesterday). Paid 7646 (Price of cooling coil is just around 3K but labor charge is more as they opened the entire dashboard to replace this cooling coil which is sitting almost in the middle of the back of the dashboard). Now AC is good like before but not better like initial period of the car. Going to observe for coming days to find whether all is well or anything else due to dashboard opened.

I use 100% AC on during driving. After initial around 5 minutes of external air, I switch it to recirculation mode inside city. Only during highways, I switch it to external air for few times when I found no much pollution outside. So I mostly using inner recirculation mode.

As per service advisor, their periodic check and cleaning process (even the AC clearing for which they are charging) never involves this part which is prone to fail due to dust accumulation and humidity. The main reason is that this part cannot be touched without removing the entire dashboard which is not advisable for any periodic service. So the question here is on the quality of this cooling coil which will withstand mostly for 4 years or 60K Kms (average life as per him though some cars are not having this part issue even beyond 1 lac kms). I heard from my friend who is owning Toyota Etios that Toyota ASS are cleaning the cooling coil also as part of AC cleaning during service (may be their access to this part is simple comparing Hyundai cars). Not sure about other brands.
Hope it is going good with respect to AC unit for the Elite i20 owners here beyond 60K Kms. If any similar experience at any number of kms or years, please post.

The faulty Cooling Coil:

[motorguy]

I've noticed that the fresh air vent on the Elite i20 is open by default when starting the engine. The only way to close it by pressing the fresh air vent switch or manually starting the AC (i.e. pressing the round dial on the right side). If you use Auto AC, then the fresh air vent keeps opening and closing at intervals.

Thus, dust may be getting coated on the evaporator (cooling coil) due to 2 reasons:
1. Using auto AC in a dusty environment and/or

2. Manually opening the fresh air vent for long periods instead of keeping the recirculating mode on.

The other observation i have is that the vent seems to open (you can hear the sound) when the engine is switched off. What I do is manually shut the vent and THEN switch off the engine. I'm not sure that the vent is actually closing, but this is the only possible way to ensure that the vent may most likely be closed.

[harikrishna.te]

I haven't had this problem yet in the 2018 version. When a valet sometimes switches everything off, it goes into fresh air mode by default but it mostly sticks to the settings I usually use.

How close is the kmpl computed by the ECU to the actual mileage figures on an i20? Has anyone tried to calibrate this?

[ckranjan]

Originally Posted by vijayk

I20 Elite 2014 – Asta Diesel – AC cooling coil replaced:

The faulty Cooling Coil:

My 2014 Sportz petrol is in service center for cooling coil replacement. ODO is 52K right now.

The AC stopped working couple of times in last 2 months. Last time it was spewing fine dust from AC vents.

Apart from this the the Link rod is being replaced too but is not being covered under extended warranty unlike the AC work.

[Bubby]

Originally Posted by vijayk

Hope it is going good with respect to AC unit for the Elite i20 owners here beyond 60K Kms. If any similar experience at any number of kms or years, please post.

I also had to replace the cooling coil, the symptoms AC showcased were very similar to yours. Though, my lasted for more then 1 lakh kms, mine is also an Elite 2014 Asta CRDi. Thanks.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

..the SA told us that for new gen Hyundai cars, alignment can only be perfectly set at HASS, as some calibration needs to be done with the diagnostic tool (OBD tool). Upon asking for more details the SA told me that if we were to set the alignment from outside, the car won't have any issues of tire wear but will pull to one side (as the OBD calibration isn't done).

I would like to differ here. Initially I too thought that the Steering of Elite i20 needs calibration after every wheel alignment. But I was wrong.

When I got the Lower Arm Bushes and Ball Joint replaced at FNG at 67909 kms on 26-01-2017(due to non-availability of Complete Lower Arm of Elite i20 at that time), I got the Wheel Alignment done outside HASS but did not feel the need to calibrate the Steering as the Steering did not pull to either side (due to untouched Tie Rod Ends while replacing Lower Arm Bushes) and the Steering Wheel too was not off-center.

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

..the SA only did the steering calibration from the OBD. After the steering calibration was done, the steering pull (to the right) simply vanished, they didn't even put her on the ramp. This is the first time I have come across such a thing. Is this system exclusive to Hyundai cars or do some other modern cars have it? Does anyone know why this steering calibration is necessary after an alignment for new gen Hyundai cars?

I don't know what did the trick here. But the pull vanished due to the fact that the Steering Angle was corrected. But what about the Toe values? Even if the Steering Wheel is calibrated, that does not auto-correct Toe Settings.

If the Steering Wheel is kept Straight and then the Wheel Alignment is done, the question of Calibration of Steering does not arise.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Steering angle sensor should be reset in these cars since they have some sort of assisted centering for the steering. Hence, if your alignment shop cant lock the steering in dead straight position before they adjust toe, it will result in a slightly off centered steering. The EPS will read steering angle data from the SAS sensor and apply corrective torque which results in the pull. Hence, usually once the alignment is done, the SAS sensor is reset so that it indicates the steering is centered.
It is also necessary on cars which will come with ESP, Active steering etc since they consider steering angle to determine in which direction the car is moving towards along with Yaw.

This is what I too want to convey. If the Steering Wheel is kept Straight before adjusting Toe, there is no need to Calibrate the Steering after Alignment.

Originally Posted by motorguy

What I do for my Elite i20 is I first do the alignment at Nikhil's place (TBHP member) at Madhu's Enterprises. Since Nikhil had mentioned to me sometime back that their Hunter alignment machines do not have the steering sensor calibration, they can do the wheel alignment but not the steering sensor calibration.

Hey buddy, you can just tell Nikhil to keep the Steering Straight Ahead before adjusting Toe and then do the Wheel Alignment. This will eliminate the need to Steering Calibration.

To all,
I got the Lower Arms- Left and Right replaced again at 136372 kms on 01-08-2018 along-with Both Tie Rod Ends at FNG.
At that time, the Local Wheel Alignment Guy did not keep the Steering Wheel Straight before adjusting Toe which resulted in car pulling to Right.
Used the car in that condition for around 1440 kms and 20 days. After that again got the Wheel Alignment done at same Place but from different mechanic. And Voila! the Pull got vanished. I had just told the mechanic to keep the Steering Straight before doing Wheel Alignment. The Left Wheel had Toe difference of 11 Points which resulted in Pull to Right initially.

Now more than 4000 kms have been clocked without any pull. The Steering Calibration is not done till date since the car was purchased. Touchwood.

Originally Posted by vijayk

I20 Elite 2014 – Asta Diesel – AC cooling coil replaced:
If any similar experience at any number of kms or years, please post.

I have got the AC Expansion Valve replaced for our Elite i20 Asta Diesel on 11-09-2018 at 140302 kms.
The said Valve is in Compressor itself. The Compressor was not switching ON. Hence showed to local AC Guy who traced it to Expansion Valve. He replaced it in front of me within 1.5-2 hrs.
The gas was released, compressor removed, Valve replaced with new one, new gas filled. Cost Rs. 4500/- including Valve (which was bought by him from HASS ). Now the AC is working like a charm.

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by vijayk

Hope it is going good with respect to AC unit for the Elite i20 owners here beyond 60K Kms. If any similar experience at any number of kms or years, please post.

Almost same kms (60k) run 4 year old car CRDI Asta. I had the exact same part repaired last year as part of extended warranty. I had posted about the same in the earlier pages of the same thread - the issue that I was seeing was of the ice formation in the cooling pipes and the service guy told that it was due to blockage in the evaporator.

Also, I run AC 100% times on re-circulation mode with very few kms driven with windows open ever. So I couldn't understand where did all the grime come from. Even for the cabin ac filter I shifted to the paper one long back.

I always used to think that this part never got a proper service from the service centre guys and what you said just validates it and also the fact that so many people here on this forum itself are facing similar issue. I really think it is a faulty design by Hyundai, also the fact that no service care/cleaning is scheduled for it making it fail eventually !!

[Parag]

Hi there, to all fellow Automotive Enthusiasts !
I need ur suggestions.
I currently own an Elite i20 (Asta) Diesel 2016, which has done around 28,000 Kms.
Wanted to change its Engine Oil to a good synthetic one along with its tyres (sometime around 33-35,000 Kms) as the current Goodyear ones are very noisy.

Can the experts here suggest the best options for both ?
Would really appreciate your help !