[swiftdiesel]

Originally Posted by Dhananjay_Desai

Thanks for this! Will also show fogging issue to the SA during the second service just to have peace of mind

Unfortunately, the SA is gonna dish out the same advice given here. I face the same issues and this is what I do and it gets clean for the most part.

1. Match the outside temperature that you see in the MID with the AC turned on.

2. If the environment is clean, change the re-circulation mode to outside air-in.

3. If the fog still persists, use the front windshield demister.

4. This is the most important tip and I don't see it mentioned elsewhere: Try not to use the wiper when you are in stop-go traffic. If it rains heavily, the windscreen will actually be clean without using a wiper! If it is absolutely necessary, use the single swipe action every 30 seconds may be and resist the urge to leave the wiper turned on. You will notice the windscreen doesn't fog up as much. You can leave the wiper turned ON after the traffic clears out and you pick up speed.

When the car is moving at speed, the outside air hits the windshield at speed and causes the windscreen to clear up. When you are in stop-go traffic, there's isn't enough pressure in the air to hit your windscreen at speed. Result? Fogged up windscreen. If you want to test my theory, just find out when it fogs up the most: it'd be when you're in stop-go traffic and NOT while driving fast.

[motorguy]

Another update (please see my post a couple of pages back) - the door light switch has again failed - after they tried to fix it 3 times. Finally today morning it started randomly flashing. Sent a mail to Customer Service at HMI. My regular SA from Trident Adugodi called me asking me why I complained - I said, "What is my choice? - I cant keep coming to you guys and putting strands of wire in the socket, etc.. I want a permanent solution".

Anyway, finally 3 of them came to my house (1 SA, HMI rep from Trident and the original service engineer who fixed it initially), took videos of the issue, took out the coupler switch and took pictures of that also. Finally they said if HMI approves they would like to change the entire wiring harness. I said that I will not allow that because that involves dashboard removal and may bring in many problems and rattling after re-assembly. Besides for only a door light not working, its an overkill to remove the entire dashboard. Then, they said if they are able to get the coupler (the plug and wire that plugs into the switch, from Hyundai (i.e. the plug which plugs into the circuit), they can just cut the coupler, attach the wires to the new coupler and plug it in - but only if the coupler can be sent by HMI as a part since HMI may not distribute it as an individual part and only as the complete wiring harness. I made it very clear, that I will only accept the coupler solution.

They said they'd get back in 3 or 4 days after HMI reverts. Fingers crossed, otherwise I'd have to live with this problem.

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by motorguy

I said that I will not allow that because that involves dashboard removal and may bring in many problems and rattling after re-assembly. Besides for only a door light not working, its an overkill to remove the entire dashboard.

I had the very same doubts as you with dashboard removal and rattling. My A/C issue left me with no other option. Got it done at Advaith ORR and the SA took care of it well. Dashboard doesn't rattle I guess if it is done professionally enough. Fingers crossed

[ts1506]

Has anyone managed to procure the original alloys from dealer/service center.

I checked around at a few service center, none of them were willing to order them, even with a proper VIN (of a neighbor's car). Checked a few accessory shops too, and no go.

Any reliable online sources for the same would be helpful. I did check after market alloys, but didn't get the feel of the stock ones in any of them. The ones I liked, are either out of budget, or not available in preferred size. I am hoping to get them for my Sportz variant, along with the official sized 195/55/16 tires.

[prasathlr]

Originally Posted by ts1506

Has anyone managed to procure the original alloys from dealer/service center.

I had to replace my front right alloy and tire because of a small accident. The alloy costs Rs.13k and the service guy told me that the order has to be placed from the Chennai factory for the alloy which usually takes 7 working days.

[motorguy]

Originally Posted by Rahul_

I had the very same doubts as you with dashboard removal and rattling. My A/C issue left me with no other option. Got it done at Advaith ORR and the SA took care of it well. Dashboard doesn't rattle I guess if it is done professionally enough. Fingers crossed

I guess in your case, you had no choice. In my case, even if the coupler solution is better, does it really make sense to cut 8 wires and attach a coupler plug (or even remove a dashboard), just for the central locking door light to glow? Cutting the 8 wires also can result in problems. After all, the button does lock all doors - it is just the light that is erratically glowing.

Am thinking of just living with it and doing it before my extended warranty expires. (The car has run only 1500 km).

[sidhu_hs]

Originally Posted by ts1506

Has anyone managed to procure the original alloys from dealer/service center.

Just got the alloy last year for rotating all 5 tyres. I think you should call other dealers in the vicinity and ask if they have it in stock. Usually big dealers have it in stock. They also have 10% off during some promotional periods during the year. So its better to source from dealers themselves.

Originally Posted by prasathlr

I had to replace my front right alloy and tire because of a small accident. The alloy costs Rs.13k and the service guy told me that the order has to be placed from the Chennai factory for the alloy which usually takes 7 working days.

13k seems a bit steep, I'll have to dig my bill to confirm the price.

Edit: Price may have increased over time. Link

[ts1506]

Originally Posted by sidhu_hs

13k seems a bit steep, I'll have to dig my bill to confirm the price.

Edit: Price may have increased over time.

Boy that's steep. I was under the impression it would be around 8.5k-ish per alloy. I'll search one final time with the dealers around here.

For 10k+, I guess I might as well go for the Momo Screamjet Evo that I'd been eying.

[ps_abhijith]

Originally Posted by ts1506

Has anyone managed to procure the original alloys from dealer/service center.

Hi,
If you from around kochi or in kerala, I know of a local tyre shop who has around 6 of these alloys with him. Some have some minor scratches. They reached him as he deals in alloy wheels and someone had changed the stock alloys. Last time I checked, he was asking for around 6k to 8 k for each.

[sidhu_hs]

Originally Posted by ts1506

Boy that's steep. I was under the impression it would be around 8.5k-ish per alloy. I'll search one final time with the dealers around here.

For 10k+, I guess I might as well go for the Momo Screamjet Evo that I'd been eying.

Yep, it was 11k. Here's the bill from last year. And discount was 5%, not 10%.
With GST, it might be 13k that your dealer is quoting.

[prasathlr]

Hi Guys,

I have a query related to my car. It was involved in a small accident, the car hit a granite stone which was placed in the middle of the road in Bangalore

It was pulling towards the left severely when I had dropped it in the service center, I got the car today and everything seems fixed but I feel the feedback from the steering wheel feels vague and not how it was before the accident.

Is there a way to check the calibration of the steering wheel before I take this up with the service center guys?

[motorguy]

Originally Posted by prasathlr

Hi Guys,

I have a query related to my car. It was involved in a small accident, the car hit a granite stone which was placed in the middle of the road in Bangalore

It was pulling towards the left severely when I had dropped it in the service center, I got the car today and everything seems fixed but I feel the feedback from the steering wheel feels vague and not how it was before the accident.

Is there a way to check the calibration of the steering wheel before I take this up with the service center guys?

First, please have an alignment and balancing done at a reputable place like Madhu's Enterprises - remember AS* wheel alignment is often not very correct since their machines are rarely calibrated and also are usually quite old (I know for a fact that Madhu's often sell their older machines to AS* because you can see Madhu's logo on a couple of AS* alignment and balancing machines).

Once this is done, verify that car does not pull to either side and there is no wobbling.

Next - ask your Hyundai AS* to do a steering calibration test -this is available on the Hyundai GDS software testing the same through the OBD port.

If these are fine, there could have been some damage on the steering rack which you will need to ask the AS* folk to do further diagnosis on.

I do my service at Trident Adugodi - there is a reasonably good SA Chetan who can help you. You can ask for the mechanic Prasanna or Terran (not sure if this is exactly his name). Both are very good.

PM me if you would like Chetan's number.

Hope you are able to resolve the problem.

[shubhamneo]

Hola Fellow BHPians,

I have i20 Asta Petrol which was purchased in December 2015. I want to perform following modification in my car, however, the dealer and service shop said it is not possible.

Can someone confirm if this can be done in Hyundai i20 ELite Asta Petrol - 2015?

1. Add DRLs - Day Running LEDs as in latest i20.
2. Projector Headlamps as in latest i20.
3. Android Auto setup with the screen as in latest i20.
4. Auto door lock at 'X' speed.
5. Cruise control

Any pointers would be appreciated.

[manaljain]

For Drl and Projector headlamps :
If you might not have extended your warranty, your warranty would end up with the end of this month.
You can either go with retrofitting the headlights.
There are alot of retrofitters in the market like xenon planet, MXS Moto Sport.
Go for Morimotos, they are ideal according to me.
Or If you want OEM Headlight, you can ask your nearest Hyundai Workshop to source them for you. You'll get the latest Headlight setup just like the one you saw in the new i20's with DRL's and projector setup.

For android auto :
If you want the OEM setup it would cost you around 30-35k.
Instead you can again opt for retrofitting the same.
Here's a DIY : team-bhp link
You can source the HU from AliExpress. It'd save up the cost and provide the same functionality.

For Auto Door Lock :
Search for OBD II port door lock
A few are available across AliExpress like:
obd door lock
(This link is for Hyundai Creta, might not function in i20).

[mudhasir]

My i20 elite petrol will be due for 40k service in less than 2 weeks. The car has clocked 38k and I plan to put it in service station as soon as it touches 39k. The car is now 2 years and 3 months old and has few problems

1. AC is not very effective. In bumper to bumper traffic, the chillness fades after 10 mins or so and in long highways, its effectiveness is reduced greatly after 1.5 hrs or so. The problem is rather strange and not sure if they will be able to identify what is the problem

2. I hear a rattling sound from engine around 2 rpm mark in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear

3. I hear suspension making noise when I go over rough roads. This is very very new

My car is covered under extended warranty for next 2 years. Can anybody let me know what to expect in 40k service and if any of the above problem is familiar to anyone here?