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Maybe you specified diesel ?

There is no diesel automatic in the Ciaz. There is, however, a petrol automatic available.

Hello all,
I got something called product book of Ciaz from my friend at MSIL. Hope it is of some help to members.


Maruti Ciaz Official Product Book.pdf

Regards,
Shashi

The CIAZ gets alloy upgrade. Has changed the whole look of the car. It has been a happy 2 weeks and 1000+km with the car. The comfortable well balanced drive and gadget loaded car is the most VFM in the market.

Visaster: The alloy look stunning. Did you upgrade to 16 inches with Michelin ? Please post some more photos with the alloys for us to appreciate the full glory.

@Passiondrive: congrats on your acquisition. I too am a proud owner of Ciaz DDIS and just got the first service done, but did not change the oil. I did ask the service advisor and he maintained that the engine oil need not be changed before 10000 Km, only top up is required on need basis. I see you have already changed the oil at 1000 km and intend to do again at 5000 ! is it recommended, does it affect the performance of engine in any way ? I did read on the forum that some amount of silver might make its way in the engine, which can be harmful for the its longevity, but at the same time, it's also mentioned that all new age engines are now comes pre-tested and ran in before being put into cars and doesn't really require oil change that frequently. Your thoughts !

One photo is not enough sir, please do justice :)



I believe I have seen comments in favor of frequent oil change in other threads also, for the same engine of course. Though its not needed from what manufacturers say, it is just better to change oil first at 1000 and then at 5000 km mark services. Owners, please enlighten us.

I have not yet done an official photo-shot, I doubt it will happen also. Anyways here is one shot with my phone camera. Many more changes are yet to come-in with the days to come. Will do constant update. It sure will be one of a kind CIAZ.

I haven't gone through the whole pdf, but it does look super informative and might help owners if it lists things not already in the manual.

It also seems to mention the variants wrong, so it might be a pre-production product book. The PDF mentions variants as V, V+, Z & Z+

It's used during training of Sales and service executives. And as far as I know, variant nomenclature is V,V+,Z &Z+ only.

Regards
Shashi

No harm, it is good to change oil initially till 10000 kms. What needs to be changed is the oil filter primarily as it holes all the contaminants, metal pieces etc that is generated during the run-in period.

I feel the oil filter is must!

Rajuputana you are perfectly right about the company's claims about pre running in. Now let me give you an insight into my thoughts about this.
The moment you start using your vehicle it goes through wear and tear involving each and every component. so its all about how well you wear it down so that all of it beds into one smooth running machine.MAS recommends SAE 5W-30synthetic oil to be changed every 10,000 kms. But even after 1000 kms there will be a presence of that worn out metal sliver in the engine oil. The more you run,there will be more of metal sliver in the oil as well as the oil filter as mentioned by A4anurag.By the end of 10,000 kms the gap between the piston rings and the cylinder as well as all the components which grind together using oil as lubricant would have widened by fraction of a millimetre. I believe, the rate of wear and tear is highest in the first 10,000 kms since the surfaces in contact are at their closest during this period.So in such a scenario I'm just providing the engine, the cleanest lubricant for an advantage so minimal !!
So you would be asking me for a perceptible change in engine perfomance? Oh yes, its very much there, especially when the engine runs cold,the clatter is minimal, disappears earlier than before the oil change.
So you would be asking me, why go through the pain for such a minimal advantage? Hmm...thats why we are all gathered here as proud TEAM BHPians clap:

You are perfectly right,every oil change should accompany oil filter change too, to get the desired results.

Desired results is secondary. Engine health, reliability and good performance in long run will all be dependant on how the engine is treated in the first 10000 kms.

You take very good care of the car in the first 10000 kms, the car will take good care of you for the rest of its life.

I see you are an expert in these topics. Will help newbies to Diesel engines ( like me ) if you can list down the steps that we should follow in the first 10K kms to ensure " care " is taken. Have seen your posts on your favourite topic " RPM". Maybe you can enlighten us on other areas

Lol. Thanks for the words.

It is nothing a herculean task that one needs to follow.

All I followed during the running-in of my Swift ZDi was change the engine oil+oil filter at 1000kms, 5000kms and 10000kms irrespective of what the SA at MASS says. MASS didn't agree for the oil change so all did was bought the oil and fleet from MGP dealer and got it changed outside at an FNG.

On the driving front,

Till 1000 kms, kept the RPM below 2500
Till 5000 kms, kept the RPM below 3000
Till 10000 kms, kept the RPM below 4000.

All these while, keep the left pedal movement light, smoot with small bursts of speeds to give the engine varying RPM. I followed the run-in procedure till the odo reached 10000 kms which is 3 months for me.

Note:

1) NEVER maintain constant speed at any time,

2) During cold starts till the engine reaches operating temp, don't accelerate hard or be the turbo zone for longer periods (This I follow even now).

3) I used to keep the speeds between 60-90 kmph (wherever feasible) till 10K kms.

Shall add more points as I remember.

Anurag.

What is this turbo zone? How will being in this turbo zone for longer periods affect the engine or the car? If you are specific about cold starts, accelerating hard is bad. But why will being in the so called turbo zone be of trouble?

Do these modern engines need run-in at all? Does MUL recommend this? How many cases you know where something went wrong with the engine because it was not run-in? Any data or study which proves the same for engine like MJD?

How will the car take good care of you for its rest of life:D? For car or engine to be in good condition, you have to take care all the while. I don't there is anything too special that happens in first 10k unless the manufacturer recommends/claims so.