[aargee]

Originally Posted by gr8guyme

I am considering the Honda WR-V and also the S-Cross 1.3 Zeta version and cannot decide which one to go for. I am just leaning towards the S-Cross given the refinement and premium interiors and also more room for my kids. Would like to hear the opinion of S-Cross owners here on the forum.

I haven't driven or even seen WR-V, but, WR-V is categorized as compact SUV, while SCross is a different league altogether; ideally you should be comparing WR-V & Brezza, not SCross. However, the below should be reasons for you to choose S-Cross...
1. Unmatched service right from sales to hassle free (real hassle free) ownership
2. Stability, means, ultimate stable on roads with excellent control & no body rollover on highspeeds
3. Low cost of ownership & remember there're no rivals for SCross

All said, SCross is an unique product that offers stability of a SEDAN & ruggedness of SUV. It's hard to understand the product unless you take it for a spin on highway & bad roads back to back with WR-V & SCross for a SIGNIFICANT (say like 100-200 Km on highway & 5 Km on bad/rough terrain)

[Vigkey]

Originally Posted by gr8guyme

I am considering the Honda WR-V and also the S-Cross 1.3 Zeta version and cannot decide which one to go for. I am just leaning towards the S-Cross given the refinement and premium interiors and also more room for my kids. Would like to hear the opinion of S-Cross owners here on the forum.

As someone who loved the Jazz and seriously considered it before zeroing in on S-Cross 1.3 Zeta and then making an unexpected jump to S-Cross 1.6 Alpha, I can confidently say that S-Cross 1.3 is a much better product and package. Since Jazz and WR-V are very similar, I do not expect my view to change much even if I happen to experience the WR-V.

If you consider the WR-V VX i-DTEC, below is what you get extra compared to S-Cross.

• a few mms extra ground clearance
• Sunroof
• A lag-free engine with better efficiency
• DRLs
• Better looking alloys

But the S-Cross is more dynamically accomplished and has better high speed ride quality. Low speed ride would again be pretty even. Overall build quality and interior quality of S-Cross is better than Jazz (and I presume WR-V). Since the seats of WR-V are carried over from lower variants of Jazz (i.e. non Magic seats), I expect them to be less comfortable and with not so great under-thigh support and S-Cross does better here. Also, S-Cross gets adjustable rear headrests.

Coming to the price, WR-V VX is more expensive compared to S-Cross Zeta which is CRIMINAL IMO. S-Cross is a 4+ m car and WR-V is a sub 4m. Moreover to bring in a bigger cost factor, the prices are on the either side of 10 lakhs making WR-V fall in a higher tax band. All in All, S-Cross will be a much more VFM product unless you want Sunroof

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by gr8guyme

I am considering the Honda WR-V and also the S-Cross 1.3 Zeta version and cannot decide which one to go for.

Scross for me is a segment higher compared to a Jazz on stilts, so obvious choice would be an S cross. Only place where WR-V might score is in maybe the looks department. Otherwise a no brainer for me.

[renownedalmond]

Introducing....

The Silver Surfer

[kpzen]

Originally Posted by renownedalmond

Introducing....

Nice wheels
Are you placed around Delhi NCR ?

[ankan.m.blr]

Originally Posted by Vigkey

• a few mms extra ground clearance
• Sunroof
• A lag-free engine with better efficiency
• DRLs
• Better looking alloys

Isn't this a very big difference in favor of the WR-V? For some customers, this may compensate for all the other 'drawbacks' of the WR-V when compared to SCross.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ankan.m.blr

Isn't this a very big difference in favor of the WR-V? For some customers, this may compensate for all the other 'drawbacks' of the WR-V when compared to SCross.

Don't mean to insult, but saying, if one knows how to drive well especially on shifting gears with respect to the speed, there's only massive pull observed, the lag is negligible. That's on the highway. In city, well...will say after gaining sufficient experience.

[Patriot_Vishwas]

And the iDtec is a noisy unit. The DDiS is quieter.
A remap could help the 1.3 S-Cross in reducing the lag so my vote for the S-Cross too.

[aargee]

Question to owners - Car ran good; but this kept coming twice yesterday.
1. After refueling, I tried starting the car, but it wouldn't; noticed the MID & this showed up. Promptly turned everything OFF; held the FOB near to start/stop button & started. Worked fine.

2. While parking at home, reversed, parked & this one kept showing. After hoovering the FOB around the start/stop button, this one disappeared.

Is this a bug or am I doing something incorrectly? Pls advice. Tks

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by aargee

Held the FOB near to start/stop button & started. Worked fine.

Mostly the battery of the keyfob is dead, because by using the key near to the start stop button, you just used the workaround for fixing this exact problem.

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by aargee

2. While parking at home, reversed, parked & this one kept showing "KEY FOB NOT DETECTED". After hoovering the FOB around the start/stop button, this one disappeared.

The battery in your key fob is getting weaker.

The key fob works in two ways:

1. Active mode - uses the battery in the key fob to communicate with the car by announcing its presence to the keyless entry system.
2. Passive (i.e. backup) mode - does not require the battery in the key fob, it works passively in a manner similar to RFID, using the car's power to let the car detect the key fob.

By placing the key fob near the start/stop button, you were using the passive mode to let the car know the key fob was inside the car, since it appears the key fob's battery wasn't strong enough to transmit a signal.

If your battery completely fails, then you'll have to use the physical key from the key fob to open the car. The physical key can be removed as shown below:

Changing the battery is also a straightforward exercise, as shown below. The replacement battery is a CR2032 type of coin cell.

I'd gone through a similar replacement for my EcoSport's smart key, and I've documented the procedure on this thread (including how to handle the scenario of the key fob battery being completely drained): https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...s-battery.html (Ford EcoSport DIY: Replacing the Smartkey's Battery)

Originally Posted by aargee

... but refused to believe the battery is weak because its brand new!

OK, my bad, I assumed yours is one of the first S-Crosses for some reason. The other reason would be what 'Dani7766' mentioned - interference from something like a cellular phone, or the key fob is being shielded by something (e.g. if you have a tablet strip in the same pocket, it could block the signal). However, such cases would surprise me, since manufacturers usually test around such common cases.

Originally Posted by aargee

Fantastic point; but my phone was near the gear shift & the FOB at the provided cubhole near the driver side door.

OK, now that makes me lean back towards a weak battery . If you have a multimeter handy and are comfortable with it, you could check the battery voltage to be totally certain.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

No guys, battery power isn't the issue here. It could be the placement of FOB inside the cabin?

Originally Posted by Sree73

I have faced the problem of "Key fob not detected" many times when I place the fob at the cubhole near the push button start. As per the advice of the SA, (two different people from two agencies), now I'm keeping the key fob in the cup holder near the hand brake and never faced the issue.

Out of curiosity, why do you take the key fob out of your pocket? For comfort? I've always left the fob in my pocket, as it ensures there's lesser fiddling around when entering/existing the car.

[Dani7766]

Originally Posted by aargee

Question to owners - Car ran good; but this kept coming twice yesterday.
1. After refueling, I tried starting the car, but it wouldn't; noticed the MID & this showed up. Promptly turned everything OFF; held the FOB near to start/stop button & started. Worked fine.
Attachment 1620014

I've noticed that when I keep my smartphone and the key in the same pocket it doesn't detect sometimes. Not sure if my assumption is right, but seems to be happening to me.

I've completed about 16000 kms in one year. I feel more connected to the car now. Either I have learned to manipulate or the ECU has adjusted, the lag seems reduced now. I feel the brakes should be much better. It isn't suited for the 1.6 engine.
For those who want a cheap upgrade of tyres, my tyre had few chips at 10000 kms. I pointed this out to the service advisor and raised an issue. I got better set of JK for Rs.6000. I think these are good enough for Rs.6000.
For someone who asked earlier, mine is a blue 1.6 and I'm from chennai.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Mostly the battery of the keyfob is dead

Originally Posted by arunphilip

The battery in your key fob is getting weaker

First of all thank you for your super elaborated reply; I did notice this in owner's manual, but refused to believe the battery is weak because its brand new!! Shockingly unbelievable!!

Originally Posted by Dani7766

I've noticed that when I keep my smartphone and the key in the same pocket it doesn't detect sometimes

Fantastic point; but my phone was near the gear shift & the FOB at the provided cubhole near the driver side door.

Originally Posted by Dani7766

I feel the brakes should be much better. It isn't suited for the 1.6 engine

Not 100%, but 101% right!! Strongly agree with you. I had nearly 2-3 near to miss incidents. Initially I thought the brakes should be good enough to stop 1.6, but it looks like they're more suited for 1.3. Dr Naren had his pads replaced at 15K km, probably because of this.

Originally Posted by Dani7766

blue 1.6 and I'm from chennai.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by aargee

Is this a bug or am I doing something incorrectly?

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Mostly the battery of the keyfob is dead.

Originally Posted by arunphilip

The battery in your key fob is getting weaker.

No guys, battery power isn't the issue here. It could be the placement of FOB inside the cabin?

Try placing it either in the cubby hole behind the gear lever or in the cubby hole beneath the fog lamp switches.

The FOB is interfering with radio or mobile signals and going unrecognized by the start/stop button.

[Sree73]

Originally Posted by aargee

Fantastic point; but my phone was near the gear shift & the FOB at the provided cubhole near the driver side door.

I have faced the problem of "Key fob not detected" many times when I place the fob at the cubhole near the push button start.
As per the advice of the SA, (two different people from two agencies), now I'm keeping the key fob in the cup holder near the hand brake and never faced the issue. As per SA, the central sensor mechanism for the fob is located near the hand brake.

Technically, the fob should be detected when it is inside the car irrespective of it's position. But, atleast for me, the cubhole is a problem area. I'm not saying that it is not working from the cubhole. But, faced 4-5 times the issue when the key is in cubhole. Now, for peace of mind, I always keep the key fob near the hand brake. No issues even I place the fob / smartphone at the same place (Cup holder near hand brake).

For me, this had nothing to do with battery. Batteries were perfect. Car starts perfectly with the fob inside anywhere in the car, except in cubhole where it refuces to start occasionally.