[procrj]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Service labor charges are 3600 - the most I have ever paid for any vehicle.

Before I gave my car for 30K service I checked with other TUV owners and the service charge they have paid was around 2800

Suspension lubrication for 1780. SA tried to sell me muffler cleaning for 1890, something called MDC for 950

What is all this?

caliper pin greasing for 1300

is this the break caliper pin or some other caliper pin? 1300 for greasing break caliper pins is

4000 for brake pads

that seems an ok price to me

1200 for wipers

that is rubbish. Get bosh eco for 300 bucks on amazon

plus 28% GST

this is a pain we need to live with

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

He has been charged Rs 1375/- + taxes for the same 30K service

Want to clarify that that is only labour charge for mechanical service as I did not opt for washing/cleaning etc. etc. More details on my ownership thread.

Most folks I know have paid about 2800 as labour + 3500-4000 for oil, oil filter, fuel filter change. Oil is the most expensive maintenance cost over the long run but something that you cannot do away with or compromise on.

Also I think its important to have a decent relationship with your service folks else they will take you for a ride and you just cant do much about it. hence the options seem to be invest time in building relationship or pay the price and do what you want to do.

[dieselburner]

Hi,
As stated by members above also. you have been charged more in my opinion for the service. I have given my TUV for the 40k service on 15th June.

Charges for 40k service apart from regular oil/filters and other charges are-
Brake pad - 2603 + taxes + labour around 150/-
Service & labour charges - 2778
Total charges for 40k service 9000/-

All these lubrications are of no use in my opinion, these are gimmicks to earn extra bucks from customers.

Also, just see my 30k service bill in WYAH app, following are the details-
Caliper assembly pin greesing - 605/-
Service and labour charges - 1975/-
Total charges for 30k service - 5888/-

What you can do is you can calculate the service cost on the WYAH app, you can see the difference. I just saw it for 30k service and it is coming out to be Rs 3583/- + taxes (labour -1375/- , parts 2208/-)with normal service without any extra work to be done.

You are charged more for sure, you can write a mail to the service centre for this and if not satisfied escalate it

Originally Posted by ntomer

Gave my TUV for first paid service (30000 KMs) to Koncept Mahindra, Greater Noida today; and was in for a shock - M&M's service is way too expensive.

Service labor charges are 3600 - the most I have ever paid for any vehicle. Suspension lubrication for 1780. SA tried to sell me muffler cleaning for 1890, something called MDC for 950 and caliper pin greasing for 1300 - for which I refused. And he all but threatened me that if I don't get this done - my car will suffer.

After couple of hours I got another call from SA - telling me that brake pads and wipers also need replacement. When I asked about the costs - 4000 for brake pads and 1200 for wipers, plus 28% GST. For which I declined again.

These prices are atrocious to say the least. Had I known M&M service is so expensive, would have never gone for TUV.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by dieselburner

Caliper assembly pin greesing - 605/-

What caliper pin is this? Brake caliper pin?

[dieselburner]

Originally Posted by procrj

What caliper pin is this? Brake caliper pin?

Yes, its the brake caliper pin.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by dieselburner

Yes, its the brake caliper pin.

Wow, why are they charging separately for the same? Its not a big thing to do when they are checking brake pads. I made sure that my caliper pins were greased during the 30K service and I did not pay a single rupee extra. For that Rs 600, you could have replaced your air filter!

P.S: I Do hope you replaced your air filter at 40K service. Mine feels like a new car with the new air filter and the torque available in 3rd/4th gears, even from as low as 1K RPMs, puts a big on my face.

[dieselburner]

Will take note if this next time. Also maruti also charges for the same but not this much, though this is avery basic job.
Yes I get the air filter is replace at every 10k service.

Originally Posted by procrj

Wow, why are they charging separately for the same? Its not a big thing to do when they are checking brake pads. I made sure that my caliper pins were greased during the 30K service and I did not pay a single rupee extra. For that Rs 600, you could have replaced your air filter!

P.S: I Do hope you replaced your air filter at 40K service. Mine feels like a new car with the new air filter and the torque available in 3rd/4th gears, even from as low as 1K RPMs, puts a big on my face.

[airbus]

I got my front seat belts replaced couple of weeks back. New belts are retracting properly, seems slightly thinner than the stock belts.

Stock seat belt came with the rear seat:



Replaced seat belt for driver seat:



I also got my hose thermostat inlet replaced yesterday. I paid for the part (Rs. 296 inclusive of GST). Hopefully this will solve coolant leakage issue. I met one TUV owner who had the same issue and solved by the new hose. Another TUV was there for the same part replacement. I have been told that the length of this hose was the issue and new hose is slightly longer. Picture of the old hose thermostat inlet:

[ariesonu]

Has anyone experimented with DIESELTRONIC or similar OBD performance devices?
Also has anyone done something drastic with ICE upgradation? I mean actual ICE setup.

Regards-Sonu

[procrj]

Originally Posted by ariesonu

Has anyone experimented with DIESELTRONIC or similar OBD performance devices?

Captain Rex has been using one for sometime now.

Also has anyone done something drastic with ICE upgradation? I mean actual ICE setup.

I know of folks on the BLR WA group who have changed the HU to Pioneer Touchsceen units and have also added an amp & changed their speakers. Let me check if he is OK if I share his number and you can then reach out to him for more details.

[sathyasuri]

Originally Posted by ariesonu

Also has anyone done something drastic with ICE upgradation? I mean actual ICE setup.

Regards-Sonu

You can look at these pics for reference, this was done by a Car Audio Store in Chennai https://plus.google.com/+CarAudioZon...ts/ANMHqnMd8Fg

Meanwhile, I came across this observation while engaging and disengaging the clutch. I notice that the engine idling RPM drops by about 150 - 200 rpm just on shifting to 1st gear from neutral (while stationary) and the clutch lever fully depressed. Does this mean the clutch setup in my car needs calibration or is it normal for all TUVs.

Ever since my TUV was retrofitted with MLD, I have this buzzing noise (no fix from M&M yet for this) and I have become super alert to all the sounds and changes in the vehicle. So can someone without the MLD check and confirm. If this is only specific to my vehicle I can then point this to the MASS in my next visit and try to get some fix for it because I strongly suspect the buzzing sound to be coming from the gearbox - prop shaft assembly.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by sathyasuri

Meanwhile, I came across this observation while engaging and disengaging the clutch. I notice that the engine idling RPM drops by about 150 - 200 rpm just on shifting to 1st gear from neutral (while stationary) and the clutch lever fully depressed. Does this mean the clutch setup in my car needs calibration or is it normal for all TUVs.

This change has happened after the ECU flash as per one of their service bulletins. My TUV is no different. While at red light, when I put the car in neutral and release the clutch pedal, rpm needle touches the 1000 mark but when I press the clutch pedal and slot the first gear it drops by 100-150 rpm, comes to around 850 rpm. This might have been done purposefully to increase the clutch life at the cost of low initial pick-up. A clutch engaging at 850 rpm would definitely have better life compared to the one engaging at 1000 rpm. However I preferred the 1000 rpm for the good initial pick-up.

Ever since my TUV was retrofitted with MLD, I have this buzzing noise (no fix from M&M yet for this) and I have become super alert to all the sounds and changes in the vehicle. So can someone without the MLD check and confirm. If this is only specific to my vehicle I can then point this to the MASS in my next visit and try to get some fix for it because I strongly suspect the buzzing sound to be coming from the gearbox - prop shaft assembly.

No buzzing sound for me as I have not done the MLD retrofitment.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

This change has happened after the ECU flash as per one of their service bulletins. My TUV is no different. While at red light, when I put the car in neutral and release the clutch pedal, rpm needle touches the 1000 mark but when I press the clutch pedal and slot the first gear it drops by 100-150 rpm, comes to around 850 rpm. This might have been done purposefully to increase the clutch life at the cost of low initial pick-up. A clutch engaging at 850 rpm would definitely have better life compared to the one engaging at 1000 rpm. However I preferred the 1000 rpm for the good initial pick-up.

But then, why haven't they simply set the idle rpm to 800/850rpm? The electrical/alternator needs are higher? Very few diesel cars idle at 1k rpm or above. Just curious.

[shashanka]

Originally Posted by procrj

......Also I think its important to have a decent relationship with your service folks else they will take you for a ride and you just cant do much about it.....

+1. I endorse your view, at least till such time as the vehicle completes its warranty period. Subsequently keep the M&M ASS folks far away from your vehicle & stick to one's trusted FNG for all subsequent servicing/repair needs. My recent experience (post#4300 in the Scorpio: issues & solutions thread) has convinced me that M&M makes great products but their ASS could be their downfall, unless they haul up their socks ASAP.

[fiat_tarun]

Interesting to note that the MLD is being offered on the TUV 300 ! Having being involved with the development and introduction of this product in my previous company, it looks like the Scorpio / Thar axle is being retrofitted here for TUV owners with the wheel spin problem.

The MLD or Mechanical Locking Differential is also a standard fitment on the Thar CRDE. It has a speed sending locking and unlocking mechanism based on centrifugal force which is very interesting. Here is a nice video showing how this works (in case it hasn't already been posted).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftyJvIO0DZ8

Originally Posted by shashanka

Hello Ameeth,
...
I shall just add a suffix to the RFF HLA bit - they are indeed useful in reducing noise & harshness and their great plus point is that they almost eliminate the need for regular tappet adjustment for valve timing. Unfortunately they haven't caught on yet in such a big way here (having been introduced by Daimler-Benz in their cars decades ago)...

Having worked with HLA & RFF's as well, I would say they are now used in almost all diesel engines running in India (K9K is one of the exceptions that comes to my mind). HLA/RFF is not popular with Japanese OEM's and hence you will not find this on most of the petrols in India. Hyundai's Kappa engine is one of the mainstream petrol engines using HLA/RFF's.

[shashanka]

Originally Posted by fiat_tarun

Interesting to note that the MLD is being offered on the TUV 300 ! Having being involved with the development and introduction of this product in my previous company,......LA/RFF is not popular with Japanese OEM's and hence you will not find this on most of the petrols in India. Hyundai's Kappa engine is one of the mainstream petrol engines using HLA/RFF's.

Thanks fiat_tarun, the video tutorial of the Eaton MLD was illustrative and drives home the working principle very well. It was also reassuring to know that HLA & RFF is now popular in mainstream Indian diesel automotive engines.

The Eaton MLD is gaining popularity here (particularly after the term became popular with the TUV300 wheel-spin issue!). The same can't be said about the torsen differential unfortunately, since it overcomes the major drawback of the Eaton type - real time operation. The higher cost & relatively high power absorption are cited as the reasons. The following video illustrates the working principle better than some of the others on You Tube - the core principle of the relative irreversability of the worm/worm-wheel pair is addressed, though the TBR (torque bias ratio) is not dealt with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv0LY3gkdGg