[airbus]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Where was your tpms installed? Am visiting the service center to get the body rust taken care of and if they provide the tpms, may go for it.

I bought SensAiry TPMS from Amazon and got it installed in one of their preferred tyre shops in Indiranagar, Bengaluru. These are internal TPMS and installed inside the tyre with the valve.

Installation Process

[theqca]

I added a black 2015 TUV 300 T8 manual with 44000 km on the clocks to the stable a few days ago. The vehicle is with Mahindra at present. Thought it best to get all oils changed so I'm sure about what its got inside.

Had a query around tyres please which I plan to replace in a day or two.

CEAT, MRF or Goodyear Wanderers? They are priced more or less the same - I don't ever plan on going offroad and the vehicle will be used for weekend trips from Bombay to my farm in Raigad. The road condition is not very good and does involve quite a bit of potholes.

Any inputs would be much appreciated.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by theqca

I added a black 2015 TUV 300 T8 manual with 44000 km on the clocks to the stable a few days ago.
Had a query around tyres please which I plan to replace in a day or two.

CEAT, MRF or Goodyear Wanderers? They are priced more or less the same - I don't ever plan on going offroad and the vehicle will be used for weekend trips from Bombay to my farm in Raigad. The road condition is not very good and does involve quite a bit of potholes.

The Apollo Apterra tyres which come from the factory on the TUV (as did mine) are quite good. Please add to your consideration set. Its rubber isn't all that soft as more expensive tyres tend to be but it has an aggressive looking side profile (for looks) and I have no complaints whatsoever - highways, bad roads, no roads, slush etc. The Ceat for TUV looks rather tame in side profile comparison.

I've also been hearing praises about Yokohama from TUV owners. But I'll wait for its actual users to comment.

[theqca]

Originally Posted by locusjag

The Apollo Apterra tyres which come from the factory on the TUV (as did mine) are quite good. Please add to your consideration set. Its rubber isn't all that soft as more expensive tyres tend to be but it has an aggressive looking side profile (for looks) and I have no complaints whatsoever - highways, bad roads, no roads, slush etc. The Ceat for TUV looks rather tame in side profile comparison.

I've also been hearing praises about Yokohama from TUV owners. But I'll wait for its actual users to comment.

Thanks...will take a look at Apollo as well.

Geolanders are a bit more expensive and most recommendations I get are the all terrain type treads whereas I never want to go off road ever. My driving is mostly bad highways and some rural roads hence I've not really considered Geolanders.

On my Honda and Swift I've used Michelin and Yokohama but for the TUV I think a harder compound with tougher sidewalls would be preferable keeping in mind the fact that one tends to drive a bit more aggressively with this vehicle as compared to my honda where I take it gently over every single pothole.

[Nalin1]

Yokohama Geolanders HT are also available. They are well capable of handling bad roads and potholes and are noiseless on smooth roads.

[theqca]

Update -

Purchased Goodyear wrangler AT/S after cribbing about all terrain tyres for so long.

Managed to drive a few different vehicles over the past few days which had CEAT and Wrangler tyres. I found the Wranglers better even on normal roads.

Cost was 4900 per tyre along with wheel balancing and alignment at Crown tyres in Bombay.

Next issue-
The vehicle was taking some time to start . Meaning you had to hold the key for a few seconds while it continues to crank unlike my honda which starts in about a second the minute you turn the key. In local parlance they say the vehicle takes a "long self" whatever that means.

A mechanic at Mahindra said that's the way the TUV is supposed to start. I had my doubts he wasn't being very accurate in his assesment. Another more experienced service advisor checked the battery and said the battery is a bit weak with one cell being faulty. So I thought it could be due to a weak battery.

I replaced the battery with a new one since the older one was around 2 years old. Older battery was 65ah. I got one with 80ah.
The issue around the ”long self" still persists.
Will have to figure out if it's some issue with the starter motor etc once I get back to Bombay in a few days

Have any of you gentlemen faced a similar problem and any inputs on possible reasons please?

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by theqca

The vehicle was taking some time to start . Meaning you had to hold the key for a few seconds while it continues to crank unlike my honda which starts in about a second the minute you turn the key. In local parlance they say the vehicle takes a "long self" whatever that means.

A mechanic at Mahindra said that's the way the TUV is supposed to start. I had my doubts he wasn't being very accurate in his assesment. Another

My nearly 3 year old TUV doesn't take long. There is one noteworthy feature in the TUV which none of my earlier cars have had - I don't have to hold the ignition key in the forward position; I can twist it to ignition point and rotate it back to equilibrium. The car starts cranking even after I bring the key back and it takes 2-3 seconds, tops, for the engine to get going. Other than that, I don't see why yours should take any longer than that to crank.

Where is fellow TUV owner procrj when you need his opinion? He knows all the issues in the TUV and their root causes so well.

[theqca]

Originally Posted by locusjag

My nearly 3 year old TUV doesn't take long. There is one noteworthy feature in the TUV which none of my earlier cars have had - I don't have to hold the ignition key in the forward position; I can twist it to ignition point and rotate it back to equilibrium. The car starts cranking even after I bring the key back and it takes 2-3 seconds, tops, for the engine to get going. Other than that, I don't see why yours should take any longer than that to crank.

Where is fellow TUV owner procrj when you need his opinion? He knows all the issues in the TUV and their root causes so well.

Right ..my KTM Duke 390 also has a similar feature where you don't need to hold the starter but just press it once and the engine keeps cranking till it starts. I realized the TUV also works in a similar manner.

Keen to narrow down the reason for the "long self" as I've realised over the years that with most mechanics / service centres you can't just leave it up to them and any auto enthusiast needs to be involved in the problem solving / maintenance process of the car / bike.

Look forward to hearing from procrj or anyone who could help with this issue

[airbus]

Originally Posted by theqca

Purchased Goodyear wrangler AT/S after cribbing about all terrain tyres for so long.

Looking forward for review of these tyres after few months. I need to replace my tyres next year

Originally Posted by theqca

Have any of you gentlemen faced a similar problem and any inputs on possible reasons please?

Originally Posted by locusjag

My nearly 3 year old TUV doesn't take long.

Right, my TUV300 which is almost 5 years old still with stock battery starts with momentary turn of the key.

[LegalEagle]

Originally Posted by theqca

Next issue-
The vehicle was taking some time to start . Meaning you had to hold the key for a few seconds while it continues to crank unlike my honda which starts in about a second the minute you turn the key. In local parlance they say the vehicle takes a "long self" whatever that means.

A mechanic at Mahindra said that's the way the TUV is supposed to start. I had my doubts he wasn't being very accurate in his assesment. Another more experienced service advisor checked the battery and said the battery is a bit weak with one cell being faulty. So I thought it could be due to a weak battery.

I replaced the battery with a new one since the older one was around 2 years old. Older battery was 65ah. I got one with 80ah.
The issue around the ”long self" still persists.
Will have to figure out if it's some issue with the starter motor etc once I get back to Bombay in a few days

Have any of you gentlemen faced a similar problem and any inputs on possible reasons please?

For my 2 and half year old Truck, it takes 2 seconds to start on crank. Of course, I wait for a minute or so after placing the key to let the needles do their customary sweep before starting.
For the Dzire with my parents, it takes 2 seconds to start after Start/Stop ignition to start.
So I wouldn't say that it is late.
Waiting for procrj's views.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by theqca

Look forward to hearing from procrj or anyone who could help with this issue

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

Waiting for procrj's views.

I WhatsApped Mr.procrj last night. He's swamped with work but this was his input- Might be the starter motor, especially if the old owner used it extensively with ESS on.

So the starter motor might be weak as I was suspecting as well, but given the highly probably cause (the ESS), it makes sense to eye the starter motor at a local garage.

I have personally never thought about the ill-effects of the ESS on the car - but that's a logical thought right there. My friendly mechanic has told me once that ESS mode (or any modifications to improve fuel efficiency, including the OEM tuned Eco mode) ruins the car in a vague sense. Anyhow, I've never even used it though since it's very irritating to have it switch off and on...

[airbus]

Originally Posted by locusjag

My friendly mechanic has told me once that ESS mode (or any modifications to improve fuel efficiency, including the OEM tuned Eco mode) ruins the car in a vague sense.

Once I was stuck for few minutes in an underpass due to ESS did not respond properly. Not a pleasure to drive with ESS in traffic jams. I have stopped using both ESS and Eco mode long back and things are not looking bad. I am still running with stock battery, which is almost five years old.

[theqca]

Thanks guys. Will get the starter motor checked and share an update.

[theqca]

Originally Posted by airbus

Once I was stuck for few minutes in an underpass due to ESS did not respond properly. Not a pleasure to drive with ESS in traffic jams. I have stopped using both ESS and Eco mode long back and things are not looking bad. I am still running with stock battery, which is almost five years old.

How much of a difference does eco mode make in a real world scenario?

Using it might make sense if you are far away from the nearest pump and not sure of diesel quality on any random highway gas station.

For regular use I have been avoiding it. After reading inputs from you gentlemen I wouldn't want to start using it or the ESS mode either.

[airbus]

Originally Posted by theqca

How much of a difference does eco mode make in a real world scenario?

I did not see noticeable difference in fuel efficiency in Eco mode and it's not fun to drive in Eco mode.