[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

Thank you so much. What exactly do you mean by not driving like a petrol? I do have experience of driving a Ritz diesel before. I drove 1.2lac kms without a clutch replacement and then sold the car with the clutch still without a shudder and no loss of pick up.

Heavier vehicle and power delivery is different from 1.3D engines, their clutch lasts long usually. Ease the clutch in before hitting the A pedal, the TUV engine may happily let you take off from some speed breakers on 3rd gear but the poor clutch will suffer! I think you got the picture.

Not sure if you have noticed, there used to be a sticker on Force travelers when they started coming with Turbo engines - not to drive in 5th gear below certain speeds, same reason.

Two of my friends have TUV, one of them learned the lesson the hard way because he moved into it from an M800 , half clutch heaven and a new clutch soon after.

[shrinz.vivek]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Heavier vehicle and power delivery is different from 1.3D engines, their clutch lasts long usually. Ease the clutch in before hitting the A pedal, the TUV engine may happily let you take off from some speed breakers on 3rd gear but the poor clutch will suffer! I think you got the picture.

Not sure if you have noticed, there used to be a sticker on Force travelers when they started coming with Turbo engines - not to drive in 5th gear below certain speeds, same reason.

Two of my friends have TUV, one of them learned the lesson the hard way because he moved into it from an M800 , half clutch heaven and a new clutch soon after.

Yeah. Got it. I remember the sticker in the TT. In short, better to think of the clutch before enjoying the engine.

[ramnaresh_2000]

Originally Posted by procrj

Hope you did let the new owner know that M&M is ok to cover rusting under goodwill.

I shared the extended warranty certificate with them already. They were not much bothered with the rust near the mud flaps area.

As per MASS they wanted to get permission to change whole right and left side fenders and requested approval for 11k from M&M.

I told the new owners it is up to them. The new owner said if they change both fenders, the resale value may further drop, as people might think it is accidental vehicle. I did not press any further, as hey, it's not my vehicle anymore

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Heavier vehicle and power delivery is different from 1.3D engines, their clutch lasts long usually. Ease the clutch in before hitting the A pedal, the TUV engine may happily let you take off from some speed breakers on 3rd gear but the poor clutch will suffer! I think you got the picture.

Your warning piqued my interest sir. I understand your point on lugging the engine at low speeds and higher gears and how that'll fry the clutch.

How about these habits of mine? Please comment.

1) In stop and go traffic I stomp down the clutch whenever traffic moves a fair bit and is starting slow down; I wouldn't know which gear to be in or if I'll have to brake at any moment, so I stomp down on the clutch and let it coast...
2) I tend to enjoy the zero turbolag and use it to zoom away from rest of the traffic. Nothing alarming, but from 30 kmph in 3rd gear to 50 kmph in a couple of seconds in the city or from 40 kmph to 80 kmph in 4th gear in a couple of seconds on the highway. I'll upshift pretty quickly to the next higher gear though.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by locusjag

1) In stop and go traffic I stomp down the clutch whenever traffic moves a fair bit and is starting slow down; I wouldn't know which gear to be in or if I'll have to brake at any moment, so I stomp down on the clutch and let it coast...
2) I tend to enjoy the zero turbolag and use it to zoom away from rest of the traffic. Nothing alarming, but from 30 kmph in 3rd gear to 50 kmph in a couple of seconds in the city or from 40 kmph to 80 kmph in 4th gear in a couple of seconds on the highway. I'll upshift pretty quickly to the next higher gear though.

# 1 - Release bearing is being stressed when you hold down the clutch pedal for long, clutch will become hard over time and then it starts to make noise, shift down smoothly when slowing down or use a lower gear, use the height of TUV to your advantage, you can anticipate your moves as you can see over the rest of the traffic. The T10 which we ordered had a height adjuster and was set to lowest and felt like sitting in a car , once I pulled the seat up the visibility was amazing.

The point is clutch pedal is a momentary switch kind of thing, disengage when necessary and keep your foot away from it.

# 2 - totally within the recommendations, you can very well stretch those while spirited highway driving., I'm sure you have

[deetee]

Originally Posted by airbus

But after nearly 5 years of ownership, trust me, I have not faced any issue with it and my height is almost 6 feet. However, there is no harm in being little careful.

+1 I am also mindful of it but the corners have never hit me or my passengers. Just be a little mindful to open the doors with arms stretched rather than getting cosy with them

[deetee]

I got the below information about extended warranty coverage from my dealer. 2 years extended warranty (if taken in 3rd year) is costing 17k.
After looking at the parts that are covered and the exclusions, am wondering if extended warranty is worth it (note that no electricals are covered in extended warranty)

[airbus]

Originally Posted by deetee

After looking at the parts that are covered and the exclusions, am wondering if extended warranty is worth it

I took extended warranty, which will be expired after one month. All my claims were made during company provided 3 years warranty period and did not claim anything during 2 years extended warranty period. However, it does give a sense of security

[deetee]

if extended warranty is not a so much profitable option for them, the dealer/ manufacturer wouldn't have voluntarily approached a customer for that. My current odo is about 41000km and in another two years it may reach about 70k max. Given the list of parts that are covered, I don't see any chances of failure within those 30k kms, unless I abuse the vehicle, in which case warranty will be denied anyway. So am not opting for extended warranty.

[shrinz.vivek]

Floor lamination issue

My TUV already had complete floor lamination when I bought it. It was very useful as I could literally wipe the entire car with a damp cloth.
I have a habit of taking off the floor mats and dusting it before and after every long drive. Last week I observed some water collection under the FR LH floor mat. Since this was above the lamination, I just wiped it dry and put back the mat. Few days later, I found water again in the same place. I wiped it off again but registered an alert in my mind. Next day when I took off the mat to dust it, I found tiny cockroaches under the mat. I started to panic and began investigation. When I pressed my thumb against the lamination, I found water oozing out of the otherwise waterproof lamination. I was now sure that something is seriously wrong with the FR LH floorboard.
I had read on team bhp that the RR windshield washer is on the RH side. So that’s not the issue. I began to worry that the floor has rusted, and water might be splashing to the underbody from the FRLH wheel.

I first peeled off the FRLH portion and to my horror the factory fitted carpet was soaking wet, with tiny cockroaches running around. I removed three of the OE carpet clips and went till the metal floor.
My worst nightmare almost came true. As I suspected, the floor has started to rust, but there was no hole in the floor. But the NVH silencer which is stuck to the OE carpet has begun to rot, which had attracted the cockroaches. Not surprising considering the silencer is made of very low-quality fabric.

My suspect: An over enthusiastic cleaner may have mistakenly sprayed water inside the car, or the FRLH window might have been open during the wash.( I remember my wife complaining that the FRLH seat was a little wet when I took delivery from the dealer). And the floor lamination is not completely waterproof. It does have small cut-outs for the seat legs and the scuff plates have small gaps through which water can seep in.
So, without any delay I began to peel off the entire lamination. This was a back breaking process as I had to remove all the seats, A & B pillar lower garnishes & all 4 scuff plates. At the end of 2 sweaty hours the lamination was out, and the day ended.
I pushed my car into the parking lot and slept (the driver seat was out)
Next day, using a dry & wet vacuum cleaner, I sucked out most of the water from the FRLH portion of the OE carpet and decided that never again will I install the lamination.
Meanwhile, the water had already spoiled the NVH silencer adhesive and I was able to take if off from the OE carpet and hang it to dry. With this the carpet became 80% dry and I assembled all the seats back and vacuumed the entire car and left it in the sun for around 4 hours without the floor mats off and windows slightly open. This finally ended my 3-day ordeal and now I had to think what to do with the lamination.
There was no way I was going to remove the seats and install it again. So, I cut the entire lamination in small pieces – 1 each for FR LH and RH, 1 each for Middle row LH & RH, 3 for under the middle row seats as it has three legs, 1 big piece for the luggage area. I had to rip almost all the Velcro strips which were stitched to the B-Surface of the lamination as it was impossible to position the carpet without it. The Velcro used to stick hard as soon as I kept the lamination on the OE carpet. I positioned the pieces as much as I could and shoved the ends into the garnishes wherever possible. And finally, the TUV was back to normal and I could sleep without having nightmares of the floor rusting way!!
Pics of the entire operation below: (Pardon the poor lighting as everything was done in the basement after dark)
The floor lamination (Coco color)


FRLH lamination peeled out with the seat intact. This is when i realized the disaster


The OE carpet peeled out. The blue layer is the silencer with the adhesive having undergone water damage. Notice the small specks of rust


FR LH seat out


Notice the velcros holding the lamination. Its super tight. The lamination pulled the OE carpet out of the center console (top left). I have to push it back in. Three clips had to be removed to remove the OE carpet. Very difficult not to break the clip. I broke two, luckily i had spares. Notice the scuff plate removed.


Driver seat out


Lamination peeled out till RR legs of FR seats


Mid row seats were the most tricky. Thanks to T6+ not having fold able backrest it refused to come out of the car. I had to rest it on the RR & FR legs alternately to peel off the lamination.


All done


The culprit in all its glory


The lamination cut into small pieces. Notice how i also had to cut lines through the holes to avoid removing the seats again.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

All done

Not quite. Body Plugs!

Body on frame vehicles as well as older vehicles like the M800 etc will have rubber \ plastic body drain plugs. An enthusiastic pressure washer guy could have knocked one off perhaps sometime in the past and water may enter through that place. Take special care to check the plugs where the firewall meets the floor \ where the steering exits the body. Water is entering through here during washing or rain. It happened to my friend`s TUV.

Please replace floor lamination with the OE floor carpet, it keeps the noise out and the floor feels plush with a fabric mat from Elegant on top of it.

[shrinz.vivek]

Door rattle noise

And while i was sweating it out fixing my carpet, i found time to do a small DIY to eliminate the door rattle noise during idling.

Background: Both FR LH & RH doors used to rattle during idling. The noise very annoying specially during the 800rpm idle. (Car in 1st gear and clutch floored). A week back i removed the FR LH door trim to investigate. To my surprise the previous owner had got the sound proofing done. So there wasn't much to do. I tried sticking a sponge over the door lock rod holder, (The small plastic U clamp which holds the two lock rods) but that did not help. Then i realized the strange way in which the door trim is fitted to the door panel.
If you can imagine the door trim to be a square with 4 sides, the top side is the door glass side which is open towards the window glass, the other side facing the wheel fender has a couple of clips which fit tightly towards the door panel. There's no gap here between the door trim and the door panel. The bottom has three screws which are pretty close to each other and hence ok. But the B pillar facing side has only one screw at the top and none till the bottom. There are clips which are quite far away from the edge of the door trim. This creates a overhang type situation and the door trim vibrates from the clips till the edge of the door. Also there's visible gap between the door trim and the panel here.

As an experiment, i folded a piece of paper and shoved it the gap and found that the rattling reduced significantly.

The fix: I purchased two stripes of water seal sponges commonly used during aftermarket spoiler fitment. I marked the outline of the door trim (B pillar side) on the door panel using a pencil. Then i stuck these sponge stripes such that the pencil mark is in the middle of the width of the sponge. I then fit the door trims back and voila, the cabin is as silent as a coffin. I can now her the sweet hum of the engine and the faint squeaks of the suspension too. And no one can now notice the difference between the 800 and 1000 rpm idling.

Unintended benefit: The music system sounds much better now !!

Before and after photos below

Before: Sound proofing has been done.


After: The black strip is the water seal sponge. Its about 3 mm thick and 7 mm wide. Notice the black clip hole below the top bracket to the left. The distance between the clip and the vertical edge of the top bracket is the overhang i am talking about. This overhang exists all the way till the bottom.

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Not quite. Body Plugs!

Yes. I remember draining fine dust from my M800 floor using these floor holes. I checked the plugs on the floor, and could not find any open holes. I will check the steering wheel exit once again. But i think its fine because i have driven in heavy rain many times and yet i found wetness only in the FR LH side of the carpet. The rest of the carpet is fine.

Also OE floor carpet is not disturbed. I didn't remove the whole carpet. I just unplugged the FR LH side to check the floor rust condition and clipped it back immediately after leaving it to dry.(Like checking the nappy of a baby)

The floor lamination is also on the OE carpet, but in pieces, so that if the issue repeats, i can only take off the piece which is affected. And no need to remove the seats.

In-spite of cutting the lamination into several pieces i found no change in the noise or plush feeling as most of the area is still covered like before.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

Yes. I remember draining fine dust from my M800 floor using these floor holes. I checked the plugs on the floor, and could not find any open holes. I will check the steering wheel exit once again. But i think its fine because i have driven in heavy rain many times and yet i found wetness only in the FR LH side of the carpet. The rest of the carpet is fine.

You wont see it that often because it takes quite a bit of water before you get to know. Somehow from the open body plug on the RHS, the water was making LHS carpet more wet than RHS , it took considerable effort and removing the entire dashboard before they were able to spot the problem, therefore i`m telling you.

While you have the door cards open, tighten the fasteners holding the door hinges as well as the fasteners that hold the glass to the winder mechanism. Usually this is why the door rattles after many years, also any misalignment of the door itself and the latch (this I am not sure if its DIY). I do the door setting once a year or so to make sure all of them are exactly where they are supposed to be. Also spray some silicon spray on the winder channels on either edge of the window glass, now everything should be like brand new

[locusjag]

I had taken my Tank on a whirlwind 1500 Km weekend trip.

Just before I had started out, I noticed that the rear right passenger's footrest area was wet underneath the rubber mat. I had driven the car in rain a week before that, so I don't know if it is a leaking door seal or a body plug like Kosfactor said a few posts ago; or is it the rear wiper's fluid leaking? I'm yet to decide whether to give it to my FNG or to MASS but eitherway, I fear rusting on the body since the wetness had been there for a week on the carpet by the time I had discovered it...

Anyway, about the trip-
* It was 5 passengers on the trip with some luggage. 2 of the passengers in the 2nd row were aged and physically wobbly. The 5th passenger voluntarily occupied the jumpseat in the 3rd row. All the luggage was stacked on top of the other jumpseat. This 5th passenger didn't complain and was happy to listen to music and do his own thing with his Android tablet.
* Of the 1500 Km, roughly 300 Km were spent driving around at dark on unlit 2 lane state highways. We spotted 2 sedans that would brake and pull over to the side whenever any vehicles would come with their high beam headlights glaring at us. We had no such problems in the high tower that the TUV 300 is. We kept roaring through the night nonchalantly.
* Any bad roads in rural stretches were gobbled up but some of the impacts were felt within.
* On proper National Highways, we were able to maintain a steady 100 Kmph at 2400 RPM.
* A friend who shared the driving duties along with me was praising the sound proofing by Mahindra since road noises and wind noises were cut out. The engine does hum in 5th gear below 2000 RPM but with his 1 decade's ownership experience with diesel cars, he was still praising the NVH levels in the TUV 300.

[shrinz.vivek]

My TUV300's ICE is behaving rather strangely. The FM reception has become very poor. One moment its singing fine and the next second it behaves as though its out of FM coverage.
I tried replacing the antenna & tuning into different stations and bands, but nothing works. All other functions like bluetooth and AUX work fine. Sireesh auto (jakkur) said i have to replace the whole unit. I feel he was trying to push a touchscreen unit as mine is a T6+ retro model.
Has anyone faced similar issue? Do you know someone in Bangalore who can repair it?