[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by locusjag

* Of the 1500 Km, roughly 300 Km were spent driving around at dark on unlit 2 lane state highways. We spotted 2 sedans that would brake and pull over to the side whenever any vehicles would come with their high beam headlights glaring at us. We had no such problems in the high tower that the TUV 300 is. We kept roaring through the night nonchalantly.

When the going gets tough TUV keeps on going. It is only those who really uses these vehicles for what they are build for can truly appreciate them, a fantastic travel machine.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

When the going gets tough TUV keeps on going. It is only those who really uses these vehicles for what they are build for can truly appreciate them, a fantastic travel machine.

I'm coming up on 3 years with my TUV 300 now. I bought it when I was madly in love with it, spent a long duration when I was unhappy with it and am back to being in love with it. It's a force to be reckoned with, like you also said just now. The car gives you a certain peace of mind when out there in rural conditions, come what may.

So, after a recent marriage in my extended family, there's a new connection to someone that works in Mahindra. His work involves body design or something along the lines of validating upcoming vehicles for NVH levels. I asked him about the TUV's future and it's not a bright picture he painted - XUV 500 and the new Scorpio are all that they are focusing on for the next year. They are also shoe-horning a 2 Litre engine into the Marazzo it seems. There's a concept design underway to stretch the XUV 300's rear-end and have it as a quasi station wagon apparently (he referred to the Tata Indigo Marina actually, as a reference point). Anyway - about the TUV 300, he said that they had intentionally limited the TUV in its core capabilities and features such that it can replace the utilitarian Bolero as a modern alternative, back when it was launched in 2015; but they then decided to leave the Bolero be and in doing so, prevented the TUV from properly taking wings in the market

It seems that they are toying around with a TUV 300 Plus BS6 avatar that'll bear the Bolero Plus name...but it looks to be the end of the road for the TUV name by itself even though it will maybe live on under the Bolero name. Mahindra's focus and resources wholly seem to be on other products.

[deetee]

My TUV300 engine noise (even while idling) has become hoarse like those old DI engines in jeeps and tractors. Earlier it used to be CRDI hum , now it sounds like a DI engine (like a tin can with a few stones inside is being shaken ).


I have taken the car to service center, they replaced both vaccum modulators (under warranty), checked all hoses, opened and checked turbo, intercooler etc.,. Still A.S.S is clueless about the reason for the rough sound. After keeping the vehicle with them for two days, they returned it to me asking me to use for a few days and get back if any other symptoms come up. They however agree that the sound is not normal.


Before this, for about a week, car was in body shop for front windshield replacement and bonnet denting and painting - reason being some objects that flew of the tyre from truck ahead (on highway) hit windshield and bonnet. The engine noise came up after I took delivery of the vehicle from bodyshop. I don't think the body shop guys could have done anything to cause the abnormal engine sound, but the workshop guys are clueless about the reason behind this sound.

Did anyone face such rough engine sound , what else could be checked?

[sathyasuri]

Originally Posted by deetee

My TUV300 engine noise (even while idling) has become hoarse like those old DI engines in jeeps and tractors. Earlier it used to be CRDI hum , now it sounds like a DI engine ...

Did anyone face such rough engine sound , what else could be checked?

This kind of diesel rattle was a classic symptom for the faulty fuel delivery module in the fuel tank. The first few batches (2015 to early 2016) had a recall of this part and were replaced whenever the customer complained of such a diesel rattle. So please check with Mahindra service for this.

[shreedharan]

First week of November. My horn conked off. Gave my TUV to Anant Cars. Seems, the clock spring had to be replaced. Got it done. No issues there. But the SA told me that a particular clutch part had to be replaced. It is part of their recall. Part was not available last month. Should get there this week. Can anyone send me the details? Am unable to find it as I have to get the details to speak to SA. Thanks in advance.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by sathyasuri

So please check with Mahindra service for this.

Good to see you posting here sathya. How is your TUV holding up? do share a little more detail on experience, issues and any other anecdotes when you have time.

Originally Posted by shreedharan

SA told me that a particular clutch part had to be replaced. It is part of their recall.

This is the first time that I have come across a recall for a clutch part. Please do share the details once you get the part replaced, along with part number if that is possible.

[shreedharan]

This is the first time that I have come across a recall for a clutch part. Please do share the details once you get the part replaced, along with part number if that is possible.[/quote]

Will share buddy. I will call the SA and confirm the part. The reason he told was, some complaints (on long term use) with regards to wear & tear which resulted in drop in pickup. To be honest, I also feel this over past few months though I don't use my TUV for city commute. 95% on highways only. Still this is felt. Not sure if anyone else is facing this here. Am now thinking if this is the reason why a "recall service action" was suggested for my vehicle. Not sure, just curious now. Is anyone else facing pickup drop after 35k / 3yr here? If any, pls do share your experience on this. Thanks in advance.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by shreedharan

Is anyone else facing pickup drop after 35k / 3yr here?

I am at 30,000 km and coming up on 3 years shortly (Jan 2018 mfg date, Feb 2018 registered). I have no such complaints. The only performance hiccup that I've faced so far was when there was dirt in my diesel, courtesy of IOCL. I had a drop in fuel efficiency along with a gruff engine note and feel.

[architect]

Originally Posted by shreedharan

Is anyone else facing pickup drop after 35k / 3yr here? If any, pls do share your experience on this. Thanks in advance.

None, whatsoever in 3 years and 55,000 km. The 85 BHP version that I have is hardly a stonker... but low-end torque continuous to be firm. The one thing with this car is that the engine doesn't like pulling when it is cold. Even the clutch gives judders when the engine is cold. Once you have two bars visible on the engine temperature gauge, its fine.

[LegalEagle]

To all the TUV'ians, quick question - I am planning to upgrade the stock headlights for my TUV from the current stock bulbs, to either Phillips Nightbreaker or Osram equivalent mostly 120/100 or 100/90 H4 bulbs. This is mainly to address inadequate light throw on highways.

Option of adding Aux lights (Hella Rallye) is always open, but want to change bulbs before going for the same.

Do I need to go for an additional relay to change the bulbs, or is the stock wiring sufficient for the proposed changes?

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

To all the TUV'ians, quick question - I am planning to upgrade the stock headlights for my TUV from the current stock bulbs, to either Phillips Nightbreaker or Osram equivalent mostly 120/100 or 100/90 H4 bulbs. This is mainly to address inadequate light throw on highways.

Option of adding Aux lights (Hella Rallye) is always open, but want to change bulbs before going for the same.

Do I need to go for an additional relay to change the bulbs, or is the stock wiring sufficient for the proposed changes?

If you are going in for higher wattage bulb, then a relay is a MUST. Please try with 100/90W bulbs first as they have lesser impact on the reflectors, if any.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

To all the TUV'ians, quick question - I am planning to upgrade the stock headlights for my TUV from the current stock bulbs, to either Phillips Nightbreaker or Osram equivalent mostly 120/100 or 100/90 H4 bulbs. This is mainly to address inadequate light throw on highways.

Option of adding Aux lights (Hella Rallye) is always open, but want to change bulbs before going for the same.

Do I need to go for an additional relay to change the bulbs, or is the stock wiring sufficient for the proposed changes?

A few things before you go the upgrade route for highways.

- make sure the light assembly looks clear, polish if necessary.
- align the beams with a chart available with the dealer.
- Install a brand new set of 60/55 Philips (make sure it's original), should cost you around 100 Rs per bulb.

Now you are ready to upgrade if necessary, 100/90 provides more light but not double the light due to this it creates a lot more heat. Care needs to be taken to switch off the headlights when the car sits idling at traffic signals etc. You will need a relay with ceramic connectors for this.

Remember a 100/90 is probably too much light for city use, it also does not solve the limitations in the reflector design of TUV.

Therefore - Hella Rallye driving lights - 500/700FF, mount it at the headlamp height , wire it to activate along with your high beam, with a switch to isolate that circuit of course. All this comes in the kit , wiring , relay, switch instructions everything.

4 reflectors are better than 2, 7 inch or bigger round reflectors are awesome.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

100/90 H4 bulbs

I have been using 90/100 Philips bulbs from first month of buying the car, which makes it almost 5 years of use. Please ensure you buy original Philips bulbs + relay kit and install. IIRC, if its an original Philips, the box will have a made in Netherlands tag.

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Remember a 100/90 is probably too much light for city use, it also does not solve the limitations in the reflector design of TUV.

Agree with you on city use of 90/100s. Its not needed and hence most times in heavy traffic, I end up driving with my fog lamps on and low beam off. Only on relatively open stretches of roads in BLR, which are oh so few, do I shift to main headlights - low beam.

IMO, the reflector design in the TUV is probably one of the best OEM designs out there in the 10L segment. I have driven at night with a Creta and Duster, both of which have very bad OEM headlamps but the TUV with a 90/100 is very good. Its even better in curvy roads and ghats as the cornering lamps add additional illumination.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by procrj

IMO, the reflector design in the TUV is probably one of the best OEM designs out there in the 10L segment. I have driven at night with a Creta and Duster, both of which have very bad OEM headlamps but the TUV with a 90/100 is very good. Its even better in curvy roads and ghats as the cornering lamps add additional illumination.

I agree with you, my friends are still running the stock set up - 60/55W and the cornering lamp function is super cool, I wish my vehicles had it. I have to lower the headlamp level to its lowest or switch on OE fog lamps when driving on Ghat sections at night.

My earlier vehicles used to have a squarish reflector and I had to use a 100/90 for better light output, those lights are also more intense and whitish.

From a highway driving perspective a round reflector driving light is a good value add as the speeds increase. It complements the high beam very well, takes it further.

[LegalEagle]

Originally Posted by ashis89

If you are going in for higher wattage bulb, then a relay is a MUST. Please try with 100/90W bulbs first as they have lesser impact on the reflectors, if any.

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Care needs to be taken to switch off the headlights when the car sits idling at traffic signals etc. You will need a relay with ceramic connectors for this.

Therefore - Hella Rallye driving lights - 500/700FF, mount it at the headlamp height , wire it to activate along with your high beam, with a switch to isolate that circuit of course. All this comes in the kit , wiring , relay, switch instructions everything.

Originally Posted by procrj

IMO, the reflector design in the TUV is probably one of the best OEM designs out there in the 10L segment. I have driven at night with a Creta and Duster, both of which have very bad OEM headlamps but the TUV with a 90/100 is very good. Its even better in curvy roads and ghats as the cornering lamps add additional illumination.

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

I agree with you, my friends are still running the stock set up - 60/55W and the cornering lamp function is super cool, I wish my vehicles had it. I have to lower the headlamp level to its lowest or switch on OE fog lamps when driving on Ghat sections at night.

To all the fellow BHp'ians, thank you for the inputs. My consolidated responses below:
1. I agree that for city use, the stock headlights are more than enough. For that matter, I only use the low beams only when it is pretty dark. Hyderabad roads require low beams due to the terrain in some parts, and our "awesome" municipality. However, this may increase soon due to change in office location to a slightly outer part of the city, and an increased night drive time on the way back - the perils of an IT job...
2. Love the cornering light feature. Has saved my life a number of times in the city itself, and even more so in ghat roads and hilly sections.
3. Also agree with the reflector design. It is very good by default and more than enough as such for city use, and medium speed highway runs.

The reasoning for the upgrade is that in stock mode, the beam spread and beam distance is unfortunately not adequate for SH's and some NH's. Have done a number of highway runs, and am now noticing it. It leads to an increased strain on my eyes, and have tended to feel more tired after a decent highway run at night. Also, on the recent run, almost missed spotting a couple of bad highway patches where road was missing - got saved due to warning from IntentGo Beta and sudden increase in traffic on an empty stretch of highway. For that matter, at speeds of 80 or above, even on the Hyderabad ORR, the stock headlights seam less.

Based on the inputs, I am actively considering the Hella lights option - only difference being
(a) I want to position them at the same level as the current fog lights, in the air dam right above the number plate holes. Is that going to help or not?
(b) It would be a completely independent circuit - running only when the key is in the ignition, and with an independent switch installed. Planning against a link to the high beam option, as use the high beam frequently while overtaking.

Let me know your thoughts.