[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by airbus

After five years both my key cases gave up. To ensure equal usage, keys were swapped every month. I have seen the same problem faced by some other TUV3OO owners as well. Ordered two key cases from boodmo. Delivery expected in two weeks.

Your key seems to be in a real bad shape, don't know why these companies use such cheap quality plastics for parts/items that undergo maximum handling. Even my brohter-in-laws Tata Indica Vista's key have met the same fate within 3 years of ownership. Fortunately both my keys are in a better shape even after 5.2 years. However it is good to know that this UPPER CASE REMOTE KEY comes at a very small price. Wish they could have used tough, wear resistant plastic for this part.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Fortunately both my keys are in a better shape even after 5.2 years.

Here is a pic of my key set. There are obvious signs of wear and tear, but still not broken. However using them in rotation after 1-2 months has ensured that both get used equally. Hope both the keys serve me till the time the TUV is with me

[Bhupi_BHP]

Hi guys! First, I would like to thank moderators for approving my membership. Can't express how excited I am to become a part of such a renowned forum. Looking forward to learn from you guys. This is my first post on team-bhp.
I read that a couple of members are facing problem wherein their engine would vibrate violently and stop immediately after cranking. This issue is related to battery of your car. I drive a March 2016 TUV which faced the similar issue thrice last month. I called up my trusted service advisor in MASS Noida and he straightaway told me it's related to your car battery. I got the battery checked at Amaron authorised distributor and they confirmed that the battery was on it's last legs. So, kindly get the battery checked before any other expensive diagnosis.

[diyguy]

Hello, i had a crazy drive this morning with my TUV. I filled gas at a bunk that i have never visited before, last night and tanked up. I started this morning at 8:15am and got the tractor sound situation, jerking etc for my drive of about 10km. I stopped about 5km into my drive switched off and restarted with the hope that this situation would go away but with no success. My wife took the car back home from the hospital and then came back around 9pm. When i drove it now, the car was purring as though nothing had happened.
I thought this tractor and jerkiness was a thing of the past but apparently i was mistaken. I think the ECU has some buggy program situation that causes this to happen. The last time this happened to me was more than 16-18 months back. Anybody has any idea what causes this? I usually idle for a minute or so before i start my drive for this reason but cant recall if i did so today. Wasnt to particularly chilly this morning either. My car is an AMT and manufactured in Dec 2017. Firmware is latest and was serviced about 5 months back with ODO close to 24K.

[Joscyriac]

I remember reading somewhere or a video where the tractor sound situation was caused by driving in the ECO mode. Not that it should happen but try driving with ECO off. Maybe the sound will go away.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Anybody has any idea what causes this?

Did you start your car after a long haitus. IMO, jerking and tractor sound can be caused due to multiple issues.
Tractor sound is usualy associated with a) cold engine oil temperature b) dirt/grime build up in HLA that is used in the TUV c) vaccum modulator issues.
Jerking is associated with a) Clogged filters - air, oil and fuel filter b) intercooler hose blockage c) MAF/Fuel sensors problems d) Fuel plumbing issues e) Fuel injector issues.
In most cases, its usually a combination of cold oil + clogged filters that leads to a very jerky morning drive.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Joscyriac

Not that it should happen but try driving with ECO off.

Thanks eco mode is something i have been trying recently due to the winter chill and a few recent long drives, will keep an eye on this.

Originally Posted by procrj

Did you start your car after a long haitus....
Jerking is associated with a) Clogged filters - air, oil and fuel filter...
In most cases, its usually a combination of cold oil + clogged filters that leads to a very jerky morning drive.

Thanks for this, the car has been running quite a bit recently and has been flawless on four recent long drives each of them clocking about 1000km per trip. Even this past week has been busy and the car has been used daily. It could be the cold oil and maybe the gas was dirtier than my normal station that has shutdown. I drove it back this morning again and there was no jerkiness but i have felt the engine noise to have gotten a bit louder these past few months. I am also noticing a noise from the transmission when i sit at the back. Need to visit the service center i guess.

[ramnaresh_2000]

Finally went ahead and purchased a pre-worshipped Jeep Compass to replace my TUV 300 AMT. Most of you are already aware that I sold my TUV back in Nov'20. Many thanks to everyone for their support and advice. For those looking for TUV replacement, look no further, Compass is the best ride you deserve. It doesn't offer the spaciousness and ground clearance of TUV, but rest assured it offers other comfort features that you need. Once again thank you all for your support during my testing times. Initial ownership review is on it's way.

PS: I will not be missing that 5 slot grille anymore as I now have 2 extra slots on my grille.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by ramnaresh_2000

Finally went ahead and purchased a pre-worshipped Jeep Compass to replace my TUV 300 AMT.

Many congratulations Ramnaresh for your Jeep Compass, she looks gorgeous in red.

Most of you are already aware that I sold my TUV back in Nov'20. Many thanks to everyone for their support and advice.

Sorry, but I think missed this. I was not aware about the sale of your TUV. Please share the details for how much you sold your TUV and how much this Compass cost you. If you've already shared then please guide to the relevant thread/messages.

[ntomer]

Yesterday while driving back home, I had to pass through a long congestion. Once congestion was over, car suddenly started showing error codes - ABS, engine oil and few more. Engine check light came on.

Then suddenly I felt that battery lost power. Headlight went off and car lost power. I somehow drove home, shut off the engine and tried to restart. It didn't.

Battery is new - not even one month old. I wonder what went wrong.

[ntomer]

Originally Posted by Bhupi_BHP

I read that a couple of members are facing problem wherein their engine would vibrate violently and stop immediately after cranking. This issue is related to battery of your car. I drive a March 2016 TUV which faced the similar issue thrice last month. I called up my trusted service advisor in MASS Noida and he straightaway told me it's related to your car battery. I got the battery checked at Amaron authorised distributor and they confirmed that the battery was on it's last legs. So, kindly get the battery checked before any other expensive diagnosis.

This is right. I faced this problem thrice - surprisingly no M&M mechanic could diagnose the root cause.

[ntomer]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Yesterday while driving back home, I had to pass through a long congestion. Once congestion was over, car suddenly started showing error codes - ABS, engine oil and few more. Engine check light came on.

Then suddenly I felt that battery lost power. Headlight went off and car lost power. I somehow drove home, shut off the engine and tried to restart. It didn't.

Battery is new - not even one month old. I wonder what went wrong.

I put the OBD scanner, and scanned for error code through Torque Pro. No error code showed up, still I cleared error codes.

Car started flawlessly after that. My faith in TUV's reliability is badly shaken.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Car started flawlessly after that. My faith in TUV's reliability is badly shaken.

This seems to be a battery related issue as there were no error codes. I would suggest you
a)Check voltage at idle and ensure that the battery is getting the necessary power to get charged. If not, you will need to get alternator checked and replaced if necessary. Battery charging error doesnt come up in cases of low voltage.
b)Check all the drive belts and replace them if you are close to 1L kms on the Odo or if you have been driving in a lot of city traffic regularly over years.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Yesterday while driving back home, I had to pass through a long congestion. Once congestion was over, car suddenly started showing error codes - ABS, engine oil and few more. Engine check light came on.

Then suddenly I felt that battery lost power. Headlight went off and car lost power. I somehow drove home, shut off the engine and tried to restart. It didn't.

Battery is new - not even one month old. I wonder what went wrong.

Before you check anything else, just check how secure are the battery terminals on positive and negative.

Then check if the negative terminal from the battery is properly grounded to the chasis where it terminates.

The symptoms point to bad connection at the battery terminals. If the terminals are well secured, you may want to borrow a battery for a day and check if issue is replicated with another battery too to isolate the battery as the cause.

[LegalEagle]

After research and advice from BHPuans, went ahead and installed Hella Rallye 3003 Driving Lights. Was looking for Hella 700FF but no one on Hyderabad appeared to have stock of the same, and could not confirm when it would be available.
Setup wired to be switched on with headlights only, with a separate switch and Hella Relay for power.
Only single tap to parking lights of the headlight which switch on Pilot lights in the Halogens by default when lights are switched on.

Attaching pictures of the final work product: