[sunny13]

I have a Baleno (Petrol) Zeta CVT 2018 with a keyless start/stop. Today I noticed a strange problem last evening. On pressing the start, there was a single click and display just turned off. Tied a couple of times and observed the same issue. So I tried jump starting the car with my Duster, assuming it’s a battery issue. Surprising. It did not start and with same symptoms. Only this time I could see the display springing back soon after the single click. Only it wouldn’t start. Any preliminary pointers to the root cause, before I reach out to service.

[Researcher]

Originally Posted by SpaceJunk

- As per the manual Total CVT oil capacity is 5.7Ltrs
- Recommended Oil is the SUZUKI CVT FLUID GREEN - 2
- Although when I had the system drained, the oil came to about 1.9Ltrs
- The same amount was refilled via the dip stick inlet (am not sure if this is right process, as other cars have a separate top-up inlet)
- Approx Cost INR 2500

The transmission is now back to its Optimum Performance, no shift delays and its as good as it used to be. ALL BALENO CVT OWNERS, Please have your transmission OIL flushed and replaced on or before 60k. Service advisors say CVT oil is for lifetime...but once your transmission fails post your warranty period...the replacement cost just for the assembly is approx INR 3,37,684. Now that's a LIFETIME!!

Thank you and happy Motoring!

Originally Posted by MotoBlip

Well if you wanna go all the way, here are all the part I think you'd need:
1. 26572-58MR0 STRAINER ASSY/ FILTER
2. 24762-82KA0 GASKET, T/M OIL PAN
3. 24823-54LS0 PLUG, DRAIN (OPT)
4. 24824-54LS0 GASKET, DRAIN PLUG (OPT)
5. CVT Fluid Green 2.

Got the transmission oil and strainer changed for my 2018 Alpha CVT in Narayani Motors, Bhubaneswar. Changed all above parts except drain plug, which was not ordered due to a miscommunication between the SA and me. Fairly easy process where the sump and strainer were removed, the oil drained and wiped (patience and effort here), new strainer and new gasket for the cleaned sump used when refitting. Oil filled was same amount as drained, which was 3.5 litres (excluding minor spillage during draining which seemed unavoidable and some in strainer). I did stay with the car to double check any mistakes. Overall, an easy experience and cost me just ₹10k.

The drained oil was dark brown whereas the fresh oil was light green (apparently doesn't stay that way for long). Lifetime sealed? Lifetime of your warranty maybe coz the gearbox costs ₹5 lacs as per the technician!

Special mention: The technician assigned to me, who had recently worked on a failed CVT of another Baleno. Completely user error as he kept driving on low fluid and warnings, caused due to a damaged seal. The SA (Mr. Debashish) and tech head (Mr. Swadhin) expedited my order and were quite involved in getting the oil change done properly. A huge thanks to all of them.
Lastly, DBHPian Leoshashi for being patient with my questions.

[singh.b86]

I have a Baleno Zeta (K12M) manual, 2021 model. As of date its clocked 36000+ KMs with slight ignorable hiccups here and there, but there seems to be an itch which is driving me crazy and this place seems to be the best place to share it and get feedback from fellow BHPians.

So Far my car has been to the MSIL Nexa Service Centre only twice. Once was at 5000KMs routine check-up interval, and the other at 34590KMs. Between these 2 milestones, car is going under regular maintenance as per the maintenance schedule mentioned in the service manual of the vehicle, but its happening in a FNG where in the products are procured by me, including the Engine Oil. Though my service includes a few over and above steps as compared to what the MSIL Manual says.

Now for some reason, i just don't trust the engine oil they put coz now its stored in big steel drums and playing foul is a child's play. Call be sceptical, but that's how i look at it, which is the biggest reason i refrain from the Nexa Service Centre.

The 1st service (engine oil, etc) happened somewhere around 9500KMs, and the stock factory spark plugs were the normal standard NGK ones and they had gone black, like pitch black and had started showing signs of rusting too, and this was after my car been running on Speed/Power fuel from COCO bunks in addition to a bottle of Proctane EVO on every tank full, or sometimes Speed 97 (BPCL) when i didn't have Proctane EVO.

*Discussion on the fuel used till date or the additive added will be taken up separately.*

That very instant i decided to order NGK top of the line iridium plugs (ILZKR6F11 read it somewhere on this forum) which as per boodmo varies anywhere between INR 335-535 per plug, but they were not available over the counter anywhere. So the auto parts dealer from where i source parts, had co-incidentally an NGK executive/distributor visiting him for some reason, he asked me to show the spark plug that came out of my car, and suggested me another spark plug matching all the physical criteria and that part number turned out to be NGK Iridium LKR7BIX-P which is used in the 1.2 Petrol engines for Bolt, Tigor, Etc.

These plugs fit perfectly, and the difference was literally NIGHT & DAY, but I'm sure it would be attributed to the engine service too and not just to the spark plugs.

At around 13000KMs i switched to Stock K&N air filter and Brembo ceramics (P79023N) on the front, felt further more difference in driving and significant difference in braking. Confidence in braking went up a bit.

20000KM service went by the book, spark plugs doing great, air filter cleaned and recharged using the K&N Kit, brakes checked, cleaned, calliper pin greased. Car felt lighter and better to be driven, can be attributed to the engine oil.

Somewhere around 27000 KMs i felt braking performance going down and upon inspection it was found that the Brembo's indeed were near EoL. Decided to switch to Bosch QuiteCast Ceramics along with brake oil replacement with Bosch ENV6 and they turned out to be as good as Brembo Ceramics.

30000KM service also went by the book, except the coolant replacement.

Somewhere post 32000KMs the RPM started jumping upon idle (cold start and otherwise too) this went on and off, wasn't a regular occurrence. Fuel post 23000KMs was regularly kept at Speed 97 (BPCL)

Finally at around 34500KMs i went to the MSIL Nexa Service Centre, got the coolant replaced (was overdue), throttle body cleaned by disassembling it from the vehicle, and switching to the OEM Iridium Spark Plugs (NGK ILZKR6F11; MSIL Part No. 09482M00651).
Got the underbody inspected, incl tightening of all bolts, greasing where required, electrical check-up. On road test the the jumping of RPM had gone, car felt how it should feel minus the jumping RPM.

Now the car has been driven 2000+ KMs since its last visit from the MSIL Nexa Service Centre, fuel remains the same, engine service is due between 39-40K, but i feel that the car is not as quick/responsive as it was when it was running on the other NGK Iridium (LKR7BIX-P), esp in the 4th and 5th gears.

Now some points which i did note, but in the hindsight; the gap between the Sparkplugs that came out and the ones that were put in, were different to a normal naked eye without even wanting to look up-close, but neither the engineer bothered to verify the same with his service manual nor did i ask him to match it to those that were coming out.

I still have the old spark plugs lying with me, can swap the spark plugs and test my theory, but i would love input from you guys w.r.t the GAP of the spark plug actually making a difference to this puny 1.2 NA petrol engine? And how come the spark plug for bolt, tigor, etc fits perfectly in this engine? And all this while there hardly being any difference in FE (tankful to tankful method)

[lxskllr]

Originally Posted by singh.b86

I still have the old spark plugs lying with me, can swap the spark plugs and test my theory, but i would love input from you guys w.r.t the GAP of the spark plug actually making a difference to this puny 1.2 NA petrol engine? And how come the spark plug for bolt, tigor, etc fits perfectly in this engine? And all this while there hardly being any difference in FE (tankful to tankful method)

Buddy, the plugs you have listed are incorrect. There's more to spark plugs than just dimensions and plug gap. E.g. heat range

The Stock plug is : NGK LKR 6F10
Replacement plug: Denso IXUH20I


Read more here:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...ml#post5626825 (My first car: 2020 Maruti Suzuki XL6 Alpha MT Review)

[Bhuvan]

Originally Posted by singh.b86

Now for some reason, i just don't trust the engine oil they put coz now its stored in big steel drums and playing foul is a child's play. Call be sceptical, but that's how i look at it, which is the biggest reason i refrain from the Nexa Service Centre.

My 2016 Baleno Delta 1.2P ran 95000 kms flawlessly with service from MASS and then Nexa Service, I always asked them to use mineral oil and replace other items as per service manual. I never added/installed any performance booster part or anything except Bosch Brake shoe at 85k kms and Adon P available at petrol bunks once or twice.

Originally Posted by singh.b86

At around 13000KMs i switched to Stock K&N air filter

An overkill for a NA engine mass market car which is engineered for mileage.
Baleno is a very light car weighing around 860kgs with that sweet revving 1.2 NA engine, it is very peppy when you floor the throttle without compromising on fuel efficiency. K&N might add to peppiness but will enable more dust to enter the throttle body which houses various sensors, contributor to fluctuating RPM as reported.

Just revert everything back to OEM specs, if in doubt visit MASS or Nexa Service and get the job done. As for the brake pads, the brake shoes from Maruti are hard compound long lasting ones causing inferior braking when compared to other soft compound brake shoes (these cause more brake dust and wear out faster).

For peaceful ownership just follow the service booklet to T and do the Italian tune up sometimes on deserted roads (Noida has many) with safety.

Handing over in Dec'23 to Spinny