[rajaslaw]

Today changed the engine oil and filter at 2800 kms. Fortunately there was a service camp at my town. Noticed that engine became very smooth. Total cost was 3100 that includes 7.5 litre oil and filter.

When I parked the car at my home found some residue of oil on the floor. Little worried about any leakage from filter assembly or what. Will check in morning.

[Sankar]

I noticed that some manufacturers have mentioned a multi link or 5 link rear suspension as a feature when it is a pretty standard layout for a live axle coil spring non independent rear suspension with body on frame vehicles such as SUVs and MUVs in our market. So when my Crysta was lifted for an exhaust job I thought of clicking a few photos of the same. Its a pretty standard layout that Toyota didn't even mention it as a feature.



PS: Spare wheel is an alloy wheel.

[Sankar]

Got a side exit exhaust pipe done for my Crysta 2.8 from Carmed Auto Logics (Code6), Cochin and they have made it extremely well. Catalytic converter has been left untouched, this is a cat-back exhaust system with 2.5" diameter pipe and pipe exits on the RHS before the rear wheel. Magnaflow is a straight through design with 2.5" inlet and outlet. The stock pipe diameter is 2.3" at some places and at some sections its smaller.

There is no discernible difference in sound, except for a slight sporty roar which only someone with an acute hearing can distinguish. This is actually good because there is no drone or noise to make driving long distances horrible. Even if i drive with window down there is no irritating noise although the pipe is exiting on that same side!

On the performance side, the turbo now spools quicker, has better response and accelerates faster. This has been achieved by 1) keeping the exhaust path short, 2) eliminating all bends in the circuit except one which is for side exit, and 3) using a slightly larger diameter pipe till the end.



I am also using a Dieseltronic Dual channel tuning box in the Crysta and after driving for 250Kms the only trail of black smoke on the body is that light patch visible under the running board. On the plus side the vehicle is extremely smooth at higher speeds.





If it did not exit on the side this is the section which would have carried it over the rear axle to the back. The new 2.5" section can be connected to this part to make it exit at the rear and it may be done later.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xdlq1soQPY

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Got a side exit exhaust pipe done for my Crysta 2.8 from Carmed Auto Logics (Code6), Cochin and they have made it extremely well. Catalytic converter has been left untouched, this is a cat-back exhaust system with 2.5" diameter pipe and pipe exits on the RHS before the rear wheel. Magnaflow is a straight through design with 2.5" inlet and outlet. The stock pipe diameter is 2.3" at some places and at some sections its smaller.

What about the muffler? Is the muffler still there or chopped off? If removed won't that make it sound louder?

I can understand the bends being removed and helping the performance but if muffler is gone then am wondering about the sound.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

What about the muffler? Is the muffler still there or chopped off? If removed won't that make it sound louder?

I can understand the bends being removed and helping the performance but if muffler is gone then am wondering about the sound.

Bends removed and larger diameter pipe. Muffler has been replaced with this Magnaflow straight through, its mentioned in the post.

ECU will be tinkered with in due time. Remap when it becomes available or another piggyback.

[MAS]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Got a side exit exhaust pipe done for my Crysta 2.8 from Carmed Auto Logics (Code6), Cochin

Nice to hear the positives of this modification.

I find the exhaust to be too low, which
- has reduced the GC, especially at a wrong place
- result in scraping at tall speed breakers, etc
- will make your right rear type run hotter than other tyres

Is it really necessary to show your exhaust pipe?

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by MAS

Nice to hear the positives of this modification.

I find the exhaust to be too low, which
- has reduced the GC, especially at a wrong place
- result in scraping at tall speed breakers, etc
- will make your right rear type run hotter than other tyres

Is it really necessary to show your exhaust pipe?

MAS very valid points especially the 3rd one. Even before the car was back on the ground after the modification I was aware of the possibility of RHS rear tyre running hotter. I have an IR thermometer and I will take a call on it after measuring both rear tyre temps. The decision was mine to have a side exit, if I want it to exit at the rear they can do it.

Regarding visibility the tip is not visible unless one looks for it, it is as discrete as the original.

Regarding reduced ground clearance so far i don't have any issues where i take the vehicle to and its also running on slightly larger profile tyres thus have more clearance than a stock crysta.

Nothing is permanent, it might be routed to the rear after couple of months, albeit in larger piping.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Regarding visibility the tip is not visible unless one looks for it, it is as discrete as the original.

"Discreet"

Originally Posted by Sankar

Regarding reduced ground clearance so far i don't have any issues where i take the vehicle to and its also running on slightly larger profile tyres thus have more clearance than a stock crysta.

Clearance is 8 inches.

[naga.sid]

So, the ZX AT it is! Super white color. Delivery was a pleasant experience at Ravindu Blr.

For some reason, the dashboard indicates 15.5 L/100km after driving 30 km. Hopefully that should improve!?

As of now beautifully smooth, almost CRJ like.

Shifting from D to P at long traffic signals is a slight chore travelling through R. Any advice?

Best regards
NS

[Sankar]

Congrats!
If the wait is long, shift from D to N at the traffic light with handbrake On.

[nareshtrao]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Congrats!
If the wait is long, shift from D to N at the traffic light with handbrake On.

You are right. That is the correct procedure. Ideally when idling at a stop in an Automatic vehicle, one should not shift to P. Instead to N and keep brake pressed. Again, the right procedure is to keep the foot brake pressed and not Handbrake. But handbrake can be used for long parking to rest the foot.

This action is akin to shifting to Neutral in a Manual Transmission and keeping brake pressed. P is meant only for "Parking".

[SpoiledBratt]

Originally Posted by nareshtrao

This action is akin to shifting to Neutral in a Manual Transmission and keeping brake pressed. P is meant only for "Parking".

. P is only meant for "Parking". In case of any unfortunate incident if anyone bumps the car from behind on a signal while in "P", there are chances of parking pin getting broken.

[naga.sid]

Thank you for your responses.

While parking, should I switch off the engine and then move it from N to P through R?

Moving through R gives an uneasy feeling with all bells and whistles going off during the transition.

Best regards
NS

[nareshtrao]

Originally Posted by naga.sid

Thank you for your responses.

While parking, should I switch off the engine and then move it from N to P through R?

Moving through R gives an uneasy feeling with all bells and whistles going off during the transition.

Best regards
NS

No. You should switch off the Engine only after you have slotted in to P. Going through R is natural. Please remember, all this while the brake should be pressed.

If you have just transitioned from a Manual to Auto, it takes some getting used to. Nothing to worry at all.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by naga.sid

Thank you for your responses.

While parking, should I switch off the engine and then move it from N to P through R?

It is quiet simple and you will get the hang of it in few days.

While waiting for short period - Reduce speed and come to halt using foot brakes > Slot to N > Apply hand brake (if needed).
Moving away - Apply foot brake > Release handbrake > slot to D release foot brake and drive.

Parking and switching off - Reduce speed and come to halt using brakes > Slot to P from D > Apply hand brakes and Switch car off.
Moving away- Start car while applying foot brake > Release handbrake > slot to D release foot brake and drive.

Always check the immediate surrounding in both cases

When vehicle is completely stationary, moving the transmission lever between the various modes is perfectly aok.