[smekad]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Parking and switching off - Reduce speed and come to halt using brakes > Slot to P from D > Apply hand brakes and Switch car off.
.

And in case you are parking on a incline, it should be halt using brakes > shift to N with brakes on, apply handbrakes > shift to P.

On a steep incline you should put the parking brake on hard enough to hold the vehicle and then put the transmission into "park". This way the parking brake should bear the weight of the vehicle.

[naga.sid]

Hi

Took the car out for a jog today on NICE road in Blr. Effortlessly went to a 100. Didn't cross that since the manual advises one to avoid high speed till 1000 km.

Once or twice there was a minor purring sound from the dashboard. That didn't happen after that.

After a 40 km run, the gear box seemed to be not wanting to go to a higher gear. Kept raising rpm though speed was at 80kmph. Assume the road must have been a slight gradient...

Moved to S mode on the return drive to see which level the gears were at. Almost always at S4.

Hope all this is in line?

Best regards
NS

[rrsteer]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Even before the car was back on the ground after the modification I was aware of the possibility of RHS rear tyre running hotter.

I don't think it should be an issue. Many buses and trucks have the same setup. But ofcourse they have a thicker tyre and must be having a different rubber compound.

[naga.sid]

Hi

Took out the car for a Bangalore Mangalore drive yesterday. Fuel efficiency was around 15.6 kmpl when mostly on cruise control. Later it dropped to 14.7 kmpl overall.

The one big issue I faced was with the throw of the headlights. The mode was on auto. Given the speed of around 100 kmph, the throw was just not enough to light up speed breakers in advance. Any solution?

Best regards
Siddharth

[smekad]

Originally Posted by naga.sid

Hi


The one big issue I faced was with the throw of the headlights. The mode was on auto. Given the speed of around 100 kmph, the throw was just not enough to light up speed breakers in advance. Any solution?

Best regards
Siddharth

I faced the same problem too. The cutoff of the Low beam LED light is too low in my opinion. Unfortunately it cannot be adjusted due to auto-headlamp levelling. I finally bought a pair of LED pod headlamps with XM-L2 Cree LEDs from Black-Oak LED.

http://www.blackoakled.com/collectio...ght-2-20-watts

Needless to say I don't have any problem now

[sridhu]

Just a quick note.

There is no need to buy additional lights.

The height of the beam can be adjusted just like the OLD Innova. Only catch is that you should know what you are doing. You need a Philips screw driver. At back of the headlamp housing there is a small opening showing what looks like a gear. Turning that adjusts the height up or down, INDEPENDENTLY of the auto leveling. Think of this as 0 on the auto level


Also, white light takes getting used to.

Originally Posted by smekad

I faced the same problem too. The cutoff of the Low beam LED light is too low in my opinion. Unfortunately it cannot be adjusted due to auto-headlamp levelling. I finally bought a pair of LED pod headlamps with XM-L2 Cree LEDs from Black-Oak LED.

http://www.blackoakled.com/collectio...ght-2-20-watts

Needless to say I don't have any problem now

[SpoiledBratt]

Originally Posted by smekad

I finally bought a pair of LED pod headlamps with XM-L2 Cree LEDs from Black-Oak LED.

http://www.blackoakled.com/collectio...ght-2-20-watts

Needless to say I don't have any problem now

Could you please share few pics post installation? Need to see how it looks and where you have installed them?

[Sankar]

Its almost 9 months now and the odo reading stands at 17010 kilometres. Avg fuel economy is for crowded 2 lane highway with not-eco oriented driving.

[karthi.stark]

I've been noticing this issue for a long time. Whenever we placed the key in the slot and turned it to the second position, the Check Engine light flashes on. However, after switching the engine on, it disappears. I checked the manual but couldn't find anything related to that. Anyone else has noticed this?
Is it something to worry about?

[Czarcarsm]

Originally Posted by MAS

Nice to hear the positives of this modification.

I find the exhaust to be too low, which...

- will make your right rear type run hotter than other tyres

Originally Posted by Sankar

MAS very valid points especially the 3rd one. Even before the car was back on the ground after the modification I was aware of the possibility of RHS rear tyre running hotter. I have an IR thermometer and I will take a call on it after measuring both rear tyre temps. The decision was mine to have a side exit, if I want it to exit at the rear they can do it.

Found this concern of impact of gas temperature on tyres to be very interesting. I did a quick calculation on this. To keep it short and less technical, I used the below numbers, based on my own experience in the field.
1. Thermal efficiency of 45%, typical modern diesel engine value
2. peak HP of 175 HP.
3. The exhaust temperature, after turbo, will be around 550 deg C. This is probably a worst case number. This engine being VGT and pipes are steel, the exhaust gas temperature at the exit near the tyre would be much lower than 550, but for conservativeness will keep it at 550. I am thinking it may be more like 400-450 C at full power.
4. the pipe dia is 2.5" from your post. Will consider this as inside dia for worst case analysis.

Considering all these, the exhaust flow out of the pipe is pretty high at around 190 meters per sec. This velocity is at the mouth of the pipe. As the vehicle moves forward, even at low speeds, there is significant mixing with outside air. The gases exit almost perpendicular to the direction of vehicle movement and with significant mixing with air, the tyre should not see any gas contact. Any heat build up will be from radiation of the hot gases, which is again pretty insignificant. You should be good.

If you plan to verify this with your IR thermometer, it would be great if you can share the results please.

Notes:
1. I have not posted the detailed calculation here for sake of simplicity. The internet has various calculations on exhaust flow, but none of them appear to use the impact of thermal efficiency and impact of gas expansion. Hence I displayed those here. This value of 190m/s should be more accurate.
2. lesser restriction on gas flow means your turbo will spool up faster and more number of times. Number of cylces of spooling from low to high speed is an important criteria for turbo rotor components design life. So be a bit easy on the pedal.

Enjoy the ride.

[geotracks]

Originally Posted by karthi.stark

I've been noticing this issue for a long time. Whenever we placed the key in the slot and turned it to the second position, the Check Engine light flashes on. However, after switching the engine on, it disappears. I checked the manual but couldn't find anything related to that. Anyone else has noticed this?
Is it something to worry about?

I do not own a Innova Crysta currently, but I think this is common with most vehicles. 2nd key position actually turns on a lot of lights on the dash - battery, oil, engine check etc. Once the keys is turned past 2nd position and the engine is fired up, the lights disappear. Hope this helps.

[karthi.stark]

Originally Posted by geotracks

I do not own a Innova Crysta currently, but I think this is common with most vehicles. 2nd key position actually turns on a lot of lights on the dash - battery, oil, engine check etc. Once the keys is turned past 2nd position and the engine is fired up, the lights disappear. Hope this helps.

The thing is that all the lights on the dashboard turn on when the key is turned to the 2nd position. They disappear after a while even though the key is still in the same position (atleast in my crysta). Only the handbrake light stays on. However, in my case the check engine light also stays on even after a while along with the handbrake light. But, after switching the engine on, it disappears. That's why I think that something's wrong. Any crysta owner has noticed this?

[sridhu]

Quick question:

Does anybody know the power rating for the Crysta's cigaretter lighter? THinking of buying a Viair tire inflator & that requires a 15AMP rating. Hence the question.

Where can I find the information? Please do let me know. Thank you.

Sorry - found the answer in the book (RTFM!). pg 390 says it is a 10A rating.

So, the new questions are:

- How can I uprate it to 15A? Is changing the fuse to 15A enough? (Think not)
- Can I ignore it & use 15A anyway?

[samabhi]

Yet another tyre burst on my Crysta. This time its at crawling speed inside a closed compound. I misjudged a 90 degree turn and the rear left tyre went over a stone laid boundary of not more than 6" - 8" in height. This is a not a single piece of stone, but multiple stones laid deep into the ground, so as to form a boundary marking. There was no underbody hit, just that the tyre went over it and in an ideal situation I would just brush it off and move on. Did the same and the next thing I noticed is the tyre has gone flat and here is what I found :



There is no hit to alloy, neither the alloy brushed the stone. Its just that the tyre went over it and that too at speeds less than 10KMPH.

I went to the Toyota Service Center and explained them about the incident. They have registered a warranty claim and sent it to Bridgestone for further investigation. Depending on the outcome, they will confirm whether they can replace it under warranty. I explained to them about my previous incident of tyre burst too and told them that this should be replaced under warranty.

I am honestly disappointed a lot about the durability/strength of the Bridgestone Tyres on my Crysta, as this is the second time it happened. Please note mine is the GX AT variant shod with 16" 205/65 Tyres and not the 17" ones. I can make peace with myself with the first incident as a one off thing, as I was at a little higher speed and the tyres burst due to getting into a pot hole. But there is no excuse for the second incident and its clearly evident that its the weaker side wall and the weight of the vehicle is adding to it.

Depending on the outcome of the report from Bridgestone, I will decide if I need to escalate this to Toyota.

Originally Posted by samabhi

Gave the car for 15000 Kms service today and asked them to fix this as well along with the pre-existing rattling noise from the driver seat. Will update if they fix it.

Quoting my own previous post, they kept the car for 3 days with them as they had to wait for a part to arrive (Toyota Emblem at the front that broke as I rear ended a cab in B2B traffic). They had all the time in the world to understand, investigate, rectify the problem and validate it multiple times. I was even in constant touch with the SA to check whether the problem is fixed or not and they assured me that its fixed. And when I went there to collect the vehicle, to my utter shock, the rattling noise from the driver seat is not fixed at all and they are not even able to identify the rattling noise coming from the rear left door pad. Least to say, I am completely disappointed at their level of support. I ensured that I gave the right feedback and I received couple of calls again requesting me to drop the car again for two days. Also please note, that driver seat rattling noise is being addressed the second time. Details about the first time incident are mentioned in this post http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offici...ml#post4089587

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by Czarcarsm

Found this concern of impact of gas temperature on tyres to be very interesting. I did a quick calculation on this. To keep it short and less technical, I used the below numbers, based on my own experience in the field.
1. Thermal efficiency of 45%, typical modern diesel engine value
2. peak HP of 175 HP.
3. The exhaust temperature, after turbo, will be around 550 deg C. This is probably a worst case number. This engine being VGT and pipes are steel, the exhaust gas temperature at the exit near the tyre would be much lower than 550, but for conservativeness will keep it at 550. I am thinking it may be more like 400-450 C at full power.
4. the pipe dia is 2.5" from your post. Will consider this as inside dia for worst case analysis.

Considering all these, the exhaust flow out of the pipe is pretty high at around 190 meters per sec. This velocity is at the mouth of the pipe. As the vehicle moves forward, even at low speeds, there is significant mixing with outside air. The gases exit almost perpendicular to the direction of vehicle movement and with significant mixing with air, the tyre should not see any gas contact. Any heat build up will be from radiation of the hot gases, which is again pretty insignificant. You should be good.

If you plan to verify this with your IR thermometer, it would be great if you can share the results please.

Notes:
1. I have not posted the detailed calculation here for sake of simplicity. The internet has various calculations on exhaust flow, but none of them appear to use the impact of thermal efficiency and impact of gas expansion. Hence I displayed those here. This value of 190m/s should be more accurate.
2. lesser restriction on gas flow means your turbo will spool up faster and more number of times. Number of cylces of spooling from low to high speed is an important criteria for turbo rotor components design life. So be a bit easy on the pedal.

Enjoy the ride.

That is some detailed analysis! Thanks

I eventually got the exhaust routed to the back because family did not approve of it There is a slight change in performance but its not too bad still much much better than original setup.

Couldn't get the tyre temp because i did not do any extended 4 lane highway driving post the exhaust install. Our roads here will not allow for a consistent reading.

Originally Posted by karthi.stark

I've been noticing this issue for a long time. Whenever we placed the key in the slot and turned it to the second position, the Check Engine light flashes on. However, after switching the engine on, it disappears. I checked the manual but couldn't find anything related to that. Anyone else has noticed this?
Is it something to worry about?

It is the same in my crysta also. The light goes off only when its started.

Originally Posted by samabhi

Yet another tyre burst on my Crysta. This time its at crawling speed inside a closed compound. I misjudged a 90 degree turn and the rear left tyre went over a stone laid boundary of not more than 6" - 8" in height. This is a not a single piece of stone, but multiple stones laid deep into the ground, so as to form a boundary marking. There was no underbody hit, just that the tyre went over it and in an ideal situation I would just brush it off and move on. Did the same and the next thing I noticed is the tyre has gone flat and here is what I found :

This is a sidewall cut caused by some sharp edge in the stone. Vento with Michelin XM2 suffered a similar fate at parking speeds thanks to a sharp end on a broken kerb.

What cold tyre pressure do you run?