[rishil.ghurki]

Originally Posted by NagarjunaB

Thank you, but, if possible, could you expand a bit more on "how it likes to be driven"? Do you mean being lite on the accelerator? Or, getting into high gears quickly? (I am bit of a novice when it comes to auto mobiles)

I'm no expert either, but I'll surely share my experience
To give you a reference, I started driving practice in a 2014 Innova and man it was a fabulous car with a great diesel engine! So, I was mostly used to diesels.

When I started driving the Magnite, the turbocharger with this 1.0L engine took me some time to get used to. So, the turbo here activates around 1800 rpm and it gives a quick acceleration forward. That was something I wasn't used to.

At first, I would drive the Magnite just like the Innova: high gears, at least as long as it pulled, because if you've driven a diesel Innova, you know you can shift just after 1k rpm and it'll still pull

But, shifting below 2000 rpm or just before the turbo activates, might feel better for the FE, but the engine strained more and required more throttle input, hence using more fuel.

I started to find the sweet spot only after driving 3000km, when my gear shifts started to coincide with the 'upshift arrow' indicated on the MID. This is somewhere around 2200-2500 rpm.

So now, with 8800km on the odo, I'm getting very good FE figures, even in the city with the AC off and reasonably better with the AC on.

I apologize for making this into a story of sorts, but I'm glad that TeamBHP provides a platform where people don't think I'm crazy for writing so much

In short:
1) Shift around 2000-2200 rpm (w/o AC) or 2200-2500 rpm (with AC, yes! I've noticed that it makes a difference)
2) Don't strain the car in high gears, doesn't help!
3) Tyre pressure!!!!!!!! 36psi is perfect.
4) The AC compressor exerts quite a load on the engine (especially since it's a 1.0L); hence you give more throttle input, hence less FE.
5) XP95 has given me 3-4 kmpl more on an average, so does Shell Regular.

PS: I also use this press-depress method with the throttle (ie. 2sec on and off) which significantly improves the FE, especially on highways or in 4th or 5th gear.

Hope this helps! Again, sorry for the lengthy reply!

[josetom89]

Hi Bhpians,
Any recommendations on suspension upgrade for Magnite? I find it too harsh and loud.

[Transmission]

Does anyone know if the 1L turbo engine is compatible with E20 petrol?

[akg7091]

Shocking news for NCR customers - Neo Nissan has shut down all sales outlets and also shutting down the workshops this month

[akg7091]

Originally Posted by Transmission

Does anyone know if the 1L turbo engine is compatible with E20 petrol?

It is not e20 compatible

[NagarjunaB]

Thanks rishil for the detailed information.

FYI: I am now not seeing the grinding noise anymore!. I have been driving with AC turned off, don't see engine heating at all too. Getting ~10 kmpl consistently. I guess you need to take it out for a few drives(I have been taking it out frequently, lately)

[Sid13]

I was looking at Nissan Magnite CVT as my next car. However some research on Internet and youtube says that Nissan CVTs are notorious for failure in long-term. Some even says Nissan CVTs are the worst CVTs ever made in terms of reliability. How true is this. Is the internet referring to similar CVT boxes as used in Magnite. Kindly guide me.

[lxskllr]

Originally Posted by Sid13

I was looking at Nissan Magnite CVT as my next car. However some research on Internet and Youtube says that Nissan CVTs are notorious for failure in long-term. Some even says Nissan CVTs are the worst CVTs ever made in terms of reliability. How true is this. Is the internet referring to similar CVT boxes as used in Magnite. Kindly guide me.

Nissan definitely spoiled CVTs reputation. That said, the unit in Magnite & Baleno are the same and is considered to be fairly reliable. Just be mindful of the timely oil changes. It's not sealed for life even if the owners manual says so. Maintain a 30k-40k internal or 3 years to be on safe side!

[Sid13]

Originally Posted by lxskllr

Just be mindful of the timely oil changes. It's not sealed for life even if the owners manual says so. Maintain a 30k-40k internal or 3 year interval

Thanks for the response. However if the manufacturer doesnt recommend it then would SC do the oil change? Especially if vehicle is under warranty? Also how expensive could be CVT gear oil change..

I keep my vehicles for 7 to 8 years and One lakh plus KMs. Hebce long term reliability really matters a lot to me.

[lxskllr]

Originally Posted by Sid13

Thanks for the response. However if the manufacturer doesnt recommend it then would SC do the oil change? Especially if vehicle is under warranty? Also how expensive could be CVT gear oil change..

I keep my vehicles for 7 to 8 years and One lakh plus KMs. Hebce long term reliability really matters a lot to me.

The owners here can share the maintenance schedule and if it has a replacement interval.

I have a Baleno CVT with the same gearbox - it costs me around 8k for the gearbox oil change. The CVT oil is imported from Japan and costs 4k per can.

Hope this helps

[NagarjunaB]

Originally Posted by Sid13

I was looking at Nissan Magnite CVT as my next car. However some research on Internet and Youtube says that Nissan CVTs are notorious for failure in long-term. Some even says Nissan CVTs are the worst CVTs ever made in terms of reliability. How true is this. Is the internet referring to similar CVT boxes as used in Magnite. Kindly guide me.

I did my research too. Yes, Nissan CVTs have very bad reputation. You will often see comments like "Avoid Nissan CVTs like plague". See below points before you make a decision.

Con:
1. Google search for "Nissan CVT lawsuit". Lot of people were having problems with Nissan CVTs in the past. Not sure about current situation.
2. Nissan admitted no wrongdoing but has agreed to extend the warranty on the CVT for some 2014-2018 models.
3. The problems were reported on older models, not sure if newer models will suffer the same fate.
4. Nissan uses/used jatco CVTs, which have a very bad reputation. Magnite comes with xtronic. Sounds new tech, hope it won't have any problems.
5. Scotty Kilmer hates Nissan. But he also hates Hyundai too!!

Pro:
1. Some said - even for those older models, they didn't see any problems. Their claim was - all CVTs are the same, you have to take care of them with periodic maintenance and not drive them hard. They claimed that all the people who reported problems were either driving too hard on their cars or didn't take care of maintenance much. Some are religiously loyal to Nissan too(family car).

I know it was kind of a bad bet, but still went ahead with buying Magnite CVT. My reasons were
1. None of the other CSUV automatic cars, within my budget, fit me (I'm a bit tall)
2. On paper, magnite appeared like a solid VFM car in every aspect. All the features within relatively low cost.
3. Good reviews from team bhp and other sites. None of them suggested to avoid due to Nissan CVT reliability. Not blaming them, but I thought Nissan might have fixed the problems in newer models, or maybe, its just that typical Indian car owner is very careful with their cars, so the CVT problems won't happen. Besides, Magnite wouldn't be a huge hit if there are any problems, lot of people bought it and are still buying it.

My opinion: If you have alternatives for magnite, go for it, why take a risk!

[mytorciar]

Dear Team-BHP and Forum Members,
I am very glad that I joined this very well informed and helpful group.

I have been following the posts in different forums and am very very impressed by the quantum of knowledge members posses on various aspects. Even more satisfying is the level of information presented with great lucidity and clarity.

I am a 68 yrs old veteran Air Force officer settled in Noida (UP). This is my first post here.

Coming to Nissan Magnite Turbo CVT Prem, the car which I have booked couple of weeks ago and have been promised delivery within 4 to 6 weeks (CSD Purchase).

I do suspect that my choice may raise eyebrows of some esteemed members and I do confess that my choice may prove to be a gamble. But, at my age and inclinations, I probably can afford to gamble :-)

My main reasons for selecting this car are:
1. Wanted to shift to an automatic car - have been driving a Maruti Ritz ZXi for nearly last ten years - flawless and without any hassles. Automatic is needed for self and wife, both advancing in age. City driving is killing on the knees.
2. Sedans were discarded because of low seating and difficult ingress and exit, for us. Ritz is very comfortable in this respect and we are quite used to that.
3. Budget - as usual is limited ( but i went overboard!).
4. Liked the look of the car - chose Blade Silver color.
5. Seems a perfect replacement for the Ritz - size (parking issues), seating ergonomics, etc.
6. Test drove Renault Kiger and Magnite on the same day - selection was difficult. Kiger's driving seat seemd a little too cluttered and gave a 'boxed-in' feel with so much of storage area having been built.
7. First choice before the test drive was Tata Punch - but despite several attempts with different agencies, there was no response for a test drive. Eventually the test drive was given to me after three weeks and after the day I had done TD on both the Magnite and Kiger.
8. Now having driven the CVT (both K and M), the AMT on the Punch was a let down - though, like others, I would also have gotten used to the AMT in due course.
9. Inside the Punch, i felt like i was in an armored personnel carrier - looked and felt really tough and rugged. The M and the K felt more sophisticated and nicer.
10. Also, did some discussions with others and got some special professional advise from other groups like this.
11. Took the family for a re-view of Kiger and Magnite. All decided on Magnite, with Kiger coming a close second.
12. Most of our driving will be in the city with probably one to two annual trips on highways.
13. As amount of driving is also limited - home, golf course, visiting both daughters on either side of Noida, am not unduly concerned about the KMP; though from gleaning thru the advice on the forum, have understood that my driving should be 'peaceful', not too aggressive and proper maintenance is a must for a better experience.
14. As I am buying thru the Canteen Stores Deptt., I could go for the highest option (Turbo CVT Prem) - as there was no cruise control on the Turbo CVT & some other baubles (not necessities).
15. On professional advice, I am also opting for the Extended Warranty and Service Pack, both for of five years, and also taking insurance from the agency. I learned this from reading about the travails of another member who was hassled in buying from Policybazar.
16. After much study and analysis on the possible options - finally decided on Magnite (though wife also gave ultimatum!).

Now, from the group, I request for help and advice on the following:
1. Are there any essential actions I need to do after I get the car - like getting / replacing any accessories? ( i am opting for their basic accessories kit).
2. Anything i need to focus on during the PDI / paperwork - I have got the BHP PDI checklist. Its pretty exhaustive.
3. Anything i need to watch out for initial period and first service?
4. Any other advice on driving style and maintenance?

I thank you all for the great information in your posts and hope to be on constant learning and advice here.
Best Regards,

[Transmission]

Originally Posted by mytorciar

Now, from the group, I request for help and advice on the following:
1. Are there any essential actions I need to do after I get the car - like getting / replacing any accessories? ( i am opting for their basic accessories kit).


I thank you all for the great information in your posts and hope to be on constant learning and advice here.
Best Regards,

I think the Magnite is a wonderful little car for your needs. The CVT rubber banding is minimal to non-existent and if you drive sedately there is absolutely no issues with mileage or power.

I'd recommend the tech pack - its a dealer installed pack (and a bit expensive for whats on offer at about 30k INR like all such dealer fitments) - but it adds a few things that you may like - like a better speaker (JBL branded), multi-color ambient lights (its nice to have when you are parked at night or are out on a leisure drive) puddle lamps (again nice to have imo). Sure you can get them all installed aftermarket but then the service centers can always make it an issue if they so choose during any warranty claims, so even though its worse value for money, I like them to be installed from the dealer itself.


Also, thank you for your service to our nation

[mytorciar]

Originally Posted by Transmission

I think the Magnite is a wonderful little car for your needs.
=====
Also, thank you for your service to our nation

Thank you for a quick and positive response. I have noted your suggestion and will definitely consider it when the car is delivered.
I am looking for some info on anything I MUST do or ADD anything like ceramic coating (not clear how that works), etc.
Thanks anyway and Cheers.

[Transmission]

Originally Posted by mytorciar

I am looking for some info on anything I MUST do or ADD anything like ceramic coating (not clear how that works), etc.

You almost certainly dont need (or want) a ceramic coating and definitely not a PPF.

Ceramic coating (and also graphene coating) will cost anywhere from 20-30k INR and is mostly just a cosmetic thing with questionable improvements on durability. It'll only help avoid the most minor of scratches - the kind called swirls which are usually caused by dust being wiped over the paint. Ceramic coating is basically a think layer of Si02 being applied which has similar hardness as fine glassy dust - the kind that you get when you do a highway run or drive in sandy areas. Brushing them onto a car which has ceramic coating will still result in fine scratches being formed over time.

Good quality self-healing poly-urethane PPF is too expensive for a car in this segment (70k+) even though it can do a better job of protection from gentle scratches. Cheaper PPF usually runs into issues somewhere past the 5 year marks, so thats another problem. Its simply cheaper to repaint the entire car if so desired.

If you park in dusty areas by all mean use a car cover. If you care about avoiding swirls (personally I dont, they are not noticeable to me and it takes too much effort - usually futile - to try to avoid them) then you would want to find someone that does touchless water washes of your car. If you are the DIY kind, you may be interested in the Jopasu dusters.

The best bet for protecting paint would probably just be to get the car waxed every 6 months and and polish with a compound maybe once a year at a decent detailing studio. That'd not just keep the car looking good, but also be easier on the pocket.

If you drive on the highways the road+wind noise can be a factor for increased fatigue. While there isn't much you can do about wind noise the road noise can be reduced with better tyres and adding insulation to the car. If you are thinking of tyre-change they need to be changed quickly after the purchase of the car (negotiate with a nearby tyre shop for the exchange price even before the purchase of the car is complete) to not lose more money during exchange, the insulation part can be added anytime later.

Misc (nothing specific to a new car):
I highly recommend buying a portable tyre inflator -preferably one thats powered by the 12V socket (you must keep the engine running when using it though - its too heavy for the battery alone to handle).

I also recommend a good puncture repair kit, a glass breaker+ seatbelt cutter and a small fire extinguisher in the car.

Hope that helps - though it may not be exactly what you had in mind