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-   -   Hyundai i20 N Line Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/241649-hyundai-i20-n-line-review-19.html)

Disc brakes at rear
Stiffer dampers
Tweaked steering rack for more feel
Modified rear exhaust resonator
Baboon bum red lashings

XP95 must be more than enough. Additives are just money down the drain. The NLine or any other small capacity turbo doesn't have enough compression ratio to make use of higher octane fuels. Stick to manufacturer recommended fuel is my advice.

I booked the car today and am now moving towards the tyre decision.

How much resale can I expect for ceat and what's the best brand to go for in exchange?

i20 NLine IMT. Did a 1250 kms Mumbai Gujarat ride, 3 Adult passengers onboard, boot fully loaded with 4 cabin bags, AC on 100% of the time, 90% highway run.
Pretty much satisfied with the ride quality and driving dynamics.

Congrats on your booking.

About the tyre : I have observed that dealers give you 50 to 60%of the MRP of a new tyre. For example if the CEAT tyres that come with the car has an MRP of 7k in the dealer price list then he gives back 3.5k to 4.2k per tyre.

I can echo that. I took the brand new car directly to a tyre shop for Michelin PS4s which were costing around 8-9k each (last March), however, I was surprised to know that the default CEAT Secura-Drive's were already at the 7k MRP mark.

We were getting like 3.5-4k for each which didn't make any sense since the tyres were almost brand new with less than 1.5 km on them (showroom to shop), so I skipped and decided to continue with the same. I think even after 1 year, I would pretty much get like 3k for each. Might as well minimize my losses before changing them. The tyres are not that bad either, but the road noise could be better. For city (NCR) usage, which is like 90% of my use case, they are doing a good job.

Got the car in Grey with DCT within a week of test driving it.
It is ALOT of fun - probably the best overall FUN package one can get this side of the VAG 1.5TSI (minus safety).
Test drove this car one random day and it made a wild card entry - was not even considering a new Hyundai car.

In 13.5 got a car with a mild sports package (suspension, steering, exhaust), very good music system, extreme agility, sunroof, leather seats, etc.
Always wanted a "sporty" car which came fully loaded from the factory and never thought it existed in the form of a small Hyundai since last year.
I only wish it had a better safety rating..will use mine only in the city / urban traffic.

Others cars in shortlist were Creta / Seltos CVT, Hyryrder petrol auto, Honda City, Sonet DCT, Slavia 1.0 etc. Basically everything in petrol AT within 18L except Mahindra.
None of these had the fun exciting factor and couldn't care less about snob value because already have the older City and Creta.

You can probably get a decent creta or city for the same price and if you need the space, you should, but the i20 will make you a smiling boy racer :)

Congrats!! How did the Slavia 1.0 feel? I'm asking because people say it has a different tune than the Polo. The 1.0 TSI in the Polo is a hoot to drive. Was the Slavia not fun enough?

It's great too, much better driving experience than CVT Hyundai/ Honda/ Kia.
But the shifts aren't as snappy as the dct and the in gear acceleration didn't feel as good. Combined with the rumoured ac issues and aggresive creep it didn't click that much with me at the moment - 1.5 is the one to get.
But I will still consider Slavia / Kushaq 1.0 in the next year as a replacement to my old City for fam use :)

Well, there you go. Fuel pump failure.
Went on a 2.5k km road trip across 2 weeks… on the way back, 5km from my home I took a stop, car didn’t start after that.

Had to tow it to the service centre, took a day for diagnosis, it’s a faulty fuel pump and has to be replaced.
They will cover this under the warranty from what I know, thankfully since I was so close to my place the service centre where the car is now is the same one where I visit normally. In fact had my second service scheduled for the next day.

I can’t profess to knowing much about the fuel pump but my car has been drinking only xp95 and never had an issue, had 2 full tanks of normal petrol from HP in this trip (since xp95 wasn’t available anywhere). Had 0 issues with the car till I stopped and couldn’t start again.

Kinda scary considering this could have happened literally in the middle of nowhere in the western ghats and I’d be in a lot of trouble.

Service centre folks have 0 clue as to what caused this to happen, and that’s even more disappointing.

The fuel pump isn’t in stock and will take approximately 10 days to get delivered.. 6 of those are over, so I should get the car by the next week.

Just painful all around tbh .. it happened at a place where I had support available but if it had happened anywhere else where I normally drive, I don’t have a clue what would have happened.

Modern cars are complicated and unreliable.
I had a Chevy (Subaru) Forester which I had bought as used (5 years old, which had 22k on odo) and drove it for 11 years (and 80K kms) which included driving to remote places. I started thinking about selling it only after there were couple of ignition coil failure episodes (luckily happened while driving in the city) because I didn't want to get stranded in a remote forest area or on a highway. But now I realise that it can happen even if you are driving a modern, newer car :). (Recently, I had few nervous moments when my Tiguan refused to start when I was in another city with poor VW support, at night, which got sorted on it's own)

I’m glad it got sorted on its own, part of me is now nervous as to how to avoid this issue, so much mixed information about fuel pump failures online. I don’t know if substandard fuel could have caused this to happen. Wish xp95 was available everywhere, also I wish Hyundai would just explain what happened.

If XP95 is not available, better to stick to pure unleaded petrol (which means 'no' to so called premium petrols with additives). Other precautions like 'not driving with nearly empty tank' may reduce the possibility of a failure.

Thanks mate, I’m gonna try to stick to just Indian oil for now, regardless. The sad part was towards Goa I couldn’t find one, but now I’ll probably do some better route research before a long trip. I’ll get the car back tomorrow morning, finally.

I took the i20 N-Line DCT for a spin. Quality and materials are the same as on the regular i20. The interior looks good with its red ambient lighting, including the black headliner. The steering wheel felt and looked better than the standard ones. It gets auto-dimming IRVM, which the regular i20 misses out on. Start the engine, and you won't hear the subtle tweaked exhaust note; it's refined and silent. Push the gear lever to D, then release the brake, and the car moves forward very gently, not at all aggressively like the Polo 1.0 TSI AT. Even when driving slowly, there is a noticeable amount of turbo lag. I noticed that it doesn't shift to 1st gear even at crawling speed while the car is on the move, and I feel that the lag is more pronounced during the initial gears. Press the TC button once to disable TC, and press it longer to disable ESC. Shift to S and go pedal to the metal, and it sounds loud and revs up to 6400 RPMs before upshifting, and it's really eager in the mid-range. The steering, suspension, and stability were much better than the regular i20 and even compared to any other Hyundai. The handling was very precise too. If I had to compare it with the Polo 1.0 TSI, I would say that apart from outright acceleration, the i20 N-Line is better in all other driving aspects.