[AbhishekB86]

Well they usually charge 250 for pick up and drop. The driver will however pretend to be the sole guardian of your vehicle and 'demand' a tip. I do usually give them a little something.

Except for the one bad experience the Metro Chevrolet drivers do more or less pick and drop the vehicle on the time requested. In case you're stuck at work and have no other option go for a pick and drop. It works for me since I'm stuck 12 hours at work

.

[AbhishekB86]

Hello!

I notice slight rattling towards the left side of the cabin. Can't seem to exactly figure out what it is but seems like the left tyre. Anyone?

[adg_andy]

Originally Posted by AbhishekB86

Hello!

I notice slight rattling towards the left side of the cabin. Can't seem to exactly figure out what it is but seems like the left tyre. Anyone?

Could be because of loose glove box. Please check out for worn/damaged rubber protectors for hinges

[AbhishekB86]

Hey Andy!

Thanks so much. Guess 23k and the small niggles are bound to crop up. Will delay it till the next service though. Thanks a ton.

Originally Posted by adg_andy

Could be because of loose glove box. Please check out for worn/damaged rubber protectors for hinges

[faustus77]

Hi everybody
My car is due for servicing.
I am reluctant to give to the authorised service center nearest my place as one of our members here had two bad experiences.
It is a May 2010 model.
Can I get the service done at a petrol pump nearby?Oil change was 4000 kms earlier.
Is it necessary to adjust ECU settings every time you get your car serviced?
I want to avoid any change to the setting as the authorised service center who did it last did a good job and I got an average of 20+ KMPL.Unfortunately they have closed down.
Please guide urgently.
What about the battery checkup and the rust checkup?
Thanks and regards

[Off Roadie]

Hello sir, you will have to give it to an Authorised Service Station if you have to keep your extended warranty active. If you are out of the warranty period then servicing at a petrol pump should do.

[superutp]

Small update on my FE, 343 kms, 31.01 ltrs gulped. 11.06kmpl. less than 10% highway, rest city. 80% AC usage.

A strange thing was that when I filled up fuel, the fuel gauge went only about 75% full. Then slowly in 3kms it raised to full. I know it happens in several cars but it hasn't ever happened to my Beat before.

My fuel pump replacement is pending and will happen once Kropex get the part.

On a different note, saw a Black Beat with massive tyres and alloys. For some reason, the left rear was 205's and the right rear was 185. In my opinion, 185's suited the Beat brilliantly while the 205's made it look like a tractor Didn't get a chance to read the front tyres. Why would someone buy 185s as main tyres and 205's as spare or vice versa?

[AbhishekB86]

Maybe your ignition was still on while you filled up? Anyway I wouldn't bother too much about it.

Also I was wondering what tyres to upgrade to? Help me decide

Originally Posted by superutp

Small update on my FE, 343 kms, 31.01 ltrs gulped. 11.06kmpl. less than 10% highway, rest city. 80% AC usage.

A strange thing was that when I filled up fuel, the fuel gauge went only about 75% full. Then slowly in 3kms it raised to full. I know it happens in several cars but it hasn't ever happened

[superutp]

Originally Posted by AbhishekB86

Maybe your ignition was still on while you filled up? Anyway I wouldn't bother too much about it.

Also I was wondering what tyres to upgrade to? Help me decide

Possibly, I switched on my ignition while refueling to check and reset odo. Doesn't matter though, its back to full tank!

You should go for 185/65 R14. I like a fool went for 175s, thinking 185 will make a difference in FE. So far FE hasn't changed one bit with 175s.

Though keep in mind one thing- the stock steel rim (and also the alloy on LT (o)) is 4.5J. For a 175 tyre the minimum is 5J. So if you look at my tyres and compare them to the standard 155 tyre side by side you really can't make out the difference thanks to the narrow rim. I suggest if you are going for 185's you also need to get 5J and above alloys/rims. Running 175s on these rims is manageable, but 185s may be unsafe. I have been on a lookout for wider steel rims but haven't been able to source them. Will upgrade to 5.5J or 6J alloys as soon as I can save up

Wider tyres mean: (specifically for the Petrol Beat)
cons:lesser top speed, slightly heavier steering, lesser FE (not affected me yet)
pros: much better looks, better handling, better ride (slightly stiffer though), ability to hog potholes better, better high speed stability, better braking.
Best decision I ever made.

[suv100]

I'm planning to sell my Chevy Beat, white, petrol 2010 model which has done close to 15000kms. Any idea on how much I might get for it?

[faustus77]

Originally Posted by Off Roadie

Hello sir, you will have to give it to an Authorised Service Station if you have to keep your extended warranty active. If you are out of the warranty period then servicing at a petrol pump should do.

Hi
Thanks your reply.
I did not opt for the extended warranty as the scheme was not worth it at that time.They were charging 15000.For later purchases they reduced it to rs 5000.
Only thing I would lose is the universal 3 year warranty from GM.This warranty is that in case I spend more than 15000 the additional amount is reimbursed.Does not cover tyres,accidents etc.
Regards
PS Your Scorpio gave you away.

[AbhishekB86]

Thanks a lot. That was detailed and cleared a lot of doubts. However since long distance travel is more or less a given I am not too keen on 185. That may cause damage on long runs. I am thinking about 175/65 R 14. Again the brands available is something I need to look at. On the other hand Im closing in on 24 k on JK stock and so far they've been good. A part of me wants to retain them till 30 since they are more or less trouble free.

By the way I think your fuel efficency can be better. I've started shifting gears at 2000 rpm and that got me close to 13 with 100% ac in bumper to bumper peak hour traffic.

[myavu]

Originally Posted by suv100

I'm planning to sell my Chevy Beat, white, petrol 2010 model...

Inviting a depreciation disaster. Why do you want to sell it? It is pretty new.

[AbhishekB86]

I suggest you don't sell it. Petrol Chevy though might attract petrol heads but the fuel hike will work against you. Why not use it sparingly and hope for a miracle? (read rollback of fuel prices)

Originally Posted by suv100

I'm planning to sell my Chevy Beat, white, petrol 2010 model which has done close to 15000kms. Any idea on how much I might get for it?

[superutp]

Originally Posted by AbhishekB86

Thanks a lot. That was detailed and cleared a lot of doubts. However since long distance travel is more or less a given I am not too keen on 185. That may cause damage on long runs. I am thinking about 175/65 R 14. Again the brands available is something I need to look at. On the other hand Im closing in on 24 k on JK stock and so far they've been good. A part of me wants to retain them till 30 since they are more or less trouble free.

By the way I think your fuel efficency can be better. I've started shifting gears at 2000 rpm and that got me close to 13 with 100% ac in bumper to bumper peak hour traffic.

I guess you can stick on to those JK Vectras for a while, but ultimately its your choice. Also depends on whether the 6k kms will make a difference in buy-back -which I doubt. Ya, 175's is a good option. I have Yoko A-Drives and so far so good.

Ya my FE can be a lot better, but my driving style still involves burst of high RPM revving (in 1st, 2nd gears mainly) which massacres the FE for sure. I would be overjoyed if I got 13 in the city.

Need to probably meditate a bit and gather patience to achieve shifting at 2k