[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by abbey4u

I got water pump changed. Had to also change oil cooler as it was leaking. However the problem persist. When the car is driven over 120+ temp needle start rising. One thing I am suspecting is the bigger radiator fan which I cnage from outside as the part was not available at Skoda when that failed. I understand that original fan change speed and work harder at higher rpm and speed to keep the temperature in control.
Suggestions?

Yup could be that the radiator fan which was not standard is causing this issue. Having the right speed fan is crucial for proper cooling. The original Skoda fans have multiple speeds and its possible that the fan you got does not have as fast a top speed. When changing parts from outside, do only take OE equivalent parts. Hope you do get this issue resolved soon.

[abbey4u]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Yup could be that the radiator fan which was not standard is causing this issue. Having the right speed fan is crucial for proper cooling. The original Skoda fans have multiple speeds and its possible that the fan you got does not have as fast a top speed. When changing parts from outside, do only take OE equivalent parts. Hope you do get this issue resolved soon.

Thanks, I am suspecting the same as it happens only high speed or high rpm. I am getting that changed too. I sent my car to skoda and they were suggesting to change but i resisted. PS when the fan failed i didn't a had a choice as i was stuck in goa (probably a good place to get stuck ) and skoda didn't had those parts.

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by abbey4u

Thanks, I am suspecting the same as it happens only high speed or high rpm. I am getting that changed too. I sent my car to skoda and they were suggesting to change but i resisted. PS when the fan failed i didn't a had a choice as i was stuck in goa (probably a good place to get stuck ) and skoda didn't had those parts.

Before you go in for a fan replacement again, ask the skoda workshop to check the coolant temperature sensor and connections too. If that behaves erratically or has corroded connections that will in turn not trigger the fan speed so could also be a culprit.
What I am surprised by is that you are getting this problem at high car speeds and not at low speed or idling. Normally the fan is required to run fastest at idling in hot conditions, whereas when the car is moving at high speeds there is already a lot of air flow due to the car speed. Most cars which have a fan or radiator problem will heat up in stop and go traffic situations and generally not at high speeds ( as long as engine rpms are not too high)

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

......
What I am surprised by is that you are getting this problem at high car speeds and not at low speed or idling. Normally the fan is required to run fastest at idling in hot conditions, whereas when the car is moving at high speeds there is already a lot of air flow due to the car speed. Most cars which have a fan or radiator problem will heat up in stop and go traffic situations and generally not at high speeds ( as long as engine rpms are not too high)

My thought exactly. Generally at high speed there is enough air blowing through the radiator, that a fan is really not needed. If the car heats up at high speeds and not in start-stop traffic, then it is engine that is the culprit. The reasons are many, but here are few that I can think of

. Exhaust partially blocked due to excessive accumulation of soot.
. There is scaling in the block, that is constricting the passage of coolant.
. The ignition timing is off, so that the ignition is delayed (it can only happen in CRDI diesels if the timing chain has been miss aligned). In this case there will be slight loss of power at high RPM.
. The mapping of the fuel injectors is messed up so that they are firing late.

It can also be as simple as a blocked radiator and a faulty temperature sensor, but that will generally also heat up the coolant in stop and go traffic.

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by Aroy

My thought exactly. Generally at high speed there is enough air blowing through the radiator, that a fan is really not needed. If the car heats up at high speeds and not in start-stop traffic, then it is engine that is the culprit. The reasons are many, but here are few that I can think of

. Exhaust partially blocked due to excessive accumulation of soot.
. There is scaling in the block, that is constricting the passage of coolant.
. The ignition timing is off, so that the ignition is delayed (it can only happen in CRDI diesels if the timing chain has been miss aligned). In this case there will be slight loss of power at high RPM.
. The mapping of the fuel injectors is messed up so that they are firing late.

It can also be as simple as a blocked radiator and a faulty temperature sensor, but that will generally also heat up the coolant in stop and go traffic.

Yes, these are all possible reasons which could cause this issue.
In this scenario, the Yeti should throw up all sorts of errors and also the Check engine light should come up. The Yeti is full of sensors in every conceivable place! Maybe a detailed VCDS scan can shed more light on this problem. Abbey - have you got a VCDS scan done yet? If yes, please share the Log file here.. there are many guys here on TBHP who can share expert info on the VCDS results.

[ajmat]

You could be having an airlock in the coolant system.

Warm up the engine. Idle the engine, open radiator cap carefully. Squeeze the hoses, revv engine, top up coolant if level goes down and put cap back on

[abbey4u]

Update. Skoda does not even know how to diagnose issues. They kept on changing parts without resolution. I had no other choice but to accept their solution with hope that things will be resolved. Finally I got my good old world of service Noida to diagnose and it turned out to be choked radiator. Got this cleaned and issue is resolved. Sad part is when I have to Skoda Hyderabad, they were supposed to clean the radiator as first step. Looks like they did just water the radiator.

[faraz]

Hi friends
My Yeti ambition 4x4 has done 53k kms over the last 6 yrs. the car has been meticulously maintained at authorised workshops only. It has a new set of tyres, just completed it's service today. All issues have been sorted and covered under Skoda warranty, immaculate paperwork maintained.I am looking for an enthusiast who can appreciate this fine beast and enjoy machine over the next many years.

Please PM me directly if interested.

Regards,
Faraz

[twinoctober]

Hi Folks,

My Yeti 4x4 has done 74,000 and is 6 yrs old.
at the last service i was asked to replace my Haldex transmission oil which I did.
also one of the rear brake discs has more worn out lines, option was either to skim the disc which would have been 1/10th cost or replace but i did not want to skim and ended up replacing both rear brake discs and new brake pads.

now coming to my new issue. I noticed red light warning with low coolant, very strange that the service and new coolant happened just 3 days ago.
I topped up with distilled water and ran it for few days with slight drop in coolant level every 3-4 days. I just did 1800 kms Bangalore - Kanyakumari -Trivandrum and back . I ran nonstop 750km with only stops for coolant drop checks. surprised to see the coolant level was same.
My doubt is whether the issue is a WATER PUMP or and leak in the hose. I read usually water pump is the cause . except for the one time when the red light glow due to low coolant level, I haven't noticed significant drop. but after 3-4 days i see a mild level drop.

Any one who can throw some light into this issue. I have booked for a checkup with Vinayak Skoda ( would have preferred to get it done outside for half the price). also the removal and fixing back the water pump is a bit time consuming.

any one faced similar issues ?solutions?suggestions?

thanks a lot

[iTNerd]

Originally Posted by twinoctober

any one faced similar issues ?solutions?suggestions?

thanks a lot

It's possibly the water pump.. its leaking albeit slowly. It is usually recommended to change the water pump along with the timing belt. This I believe is to be changed around 1 lac Km mark. But if you are experiencing now, its better to prepone. Had this issue on my yeti around 50k kms.

[Carcrazy60]

Hi folks. Need some guidance. My 5 and a half year old Yeti needs a clutch assembly change. Skoda charges seem exorbitant. Can I source it from the market and if so what would be the cost? Thanks in advance.
It's an Elegance version.

[Steeroid]

Originally Posted by Carcrazy60

Hi folks. Need some guidance. My 5 and a half year old Yeti needs a clutch assembly change. Skoda charges seem exorbitant. Can I source it from the market and if so what would be the cost? Thanks in advance.
It's an Elegance version.

How much did they quote, and what all are included in that price? I want the number just for comparison. I did mine from outside - full clutch kit + hydraulic release bearing + flywheel.

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by Carcrazy60

Hi folks. Need some guidance. My 5 and a half year old Yeti needs a clutch assembly change. Skoda charges seem exorbitant. Can I source it from the market and if so what would be the cost? Thanks in advance.
It's an Elegance version.

My Laura underwent the same operation a few months back and the bill came to around 1.05 lacs for the clutch and flywheel assembly - parts and labor. I believe that the Yeti should also cost around the same.

[abbey4u]

I had my clutch changed at 1.2l kms. Costed me around 95k. Was done at Skoda.

[Steeroid]

Originally Posted by abbey4u

I had my clutch changed at 1.2l kms. Costed me around 95k. Was done at Skoda.

Got a similar sort of quote (I don't remember the amount, except that it was quite exorbitant).

The reason I asked here is this post elsewhere:

Originally Posted by M35

That is quite some serious money. The Skoda service/repair calculator quotes only Rs.19995 for Clutch Plate + Pressure Plate. What else did you have to change in the ‘kit’ which costs Rs.75k ?
Also there is no mentioning of clutch oil replacement at all, even at 150,000 km service. There is a Timing belt change (Rs.15k)@ 120k km service, otherwise just regular engine oil + filters + brake oil changes.

I had mine done at an independent garage for roughly 65k (roughly, because I also had my 105k service done at the same time). We got a full OEM Sachs set for replacement for about 49k+8k for release bearing I think - balance was labour.