Team-BHP - ARTICLE: How to Run-In your new car

Quote:

Originally Posted by saabasheer (Post 617484)

But in India most of the Car Manuals recommending Run-in, that means no factory run-in done here.:)

I dont think so. When i visited the BAL plant at Chakan (during the first dtsi launch), we saw the brand new bikes on the shopfloor being revved to >10000rpm on the dyno, then the bike being ridden not to gently to the loading areas. So not sure if 'run in' is required for new autos as of now

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 502493)

austere, this will work well on cars with low end torque, i.e. diesel cars, on petrol ones you will have to depress accelerator lightly.

I guess all mpfi cars 'adjust' to compensate for not pressing the accelerator. The 800 cc alto too can be driven off first/second gear without pressing the accelerator, and gently releasing the clutch.

Dear Aache,
not only you but majority on this site tend to forget that running in of the car is not just for the engine alone. Your automobile is not made of just one mechanical aggregate/component.
Even if the engine did not require the mandatory running in what about other components. Even the most oft forgotten tires need running in. When you buy fresh tires for the first 300 to 400km the grip is no where compared to what it will be in a 1000km. An advice oft forgotten is to never buy brand new tires during rainy or peak summer season. Buying tires during winter is your best bet for optimum running in of your tires. I need not mention to you the other mechanical aggregates of your car for e.g the power steering pump and your gear box. Go easy on virgins:Shockked: the first few months and they will serve:D you well for a long time.

Bye and wear your seat belts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by apachelongbow (Post 624934)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel lover (Post 663317)

Can an additive added fuel be used in run in conditions or normal fuel should be used?

You're best off with the highest sulpher content fuel and with plain (read cheapest) mineral oil as engine oil. :)
The idea behind this is to 'cause max wear' as opposed to later when you'll want to minimize engine wear!

Guys,

I think we are here talking about 2 different things - breaking in a new engine and running in a new car. I personally feel that both methods described here are correct and both need to be followed. Let me elobrate on this:

The manufacturer controls the complete quality assurance and quality control process: design, fabrication, build, inspection and testing.
So when a manufacturer first fires-up a new engine on a test stand, they know from experience (and monitoring each engine’s exhaust oil combustion products) that the piston rings will seat properly before the engine leaves the factory. Many manufacturers including Ducati, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, Corvette, Viper and Aston Martin do their initial fill with a synthetic oil, and piston wall glazing is simply not a problem for them.
The piston rings seal is mostly complete after this initial test run. The follow-up part of the break-in (that you read in your Owners Manual) has little to do with piston ring sealing. It’s meant to accommodate the time it takes for normal wear to occur to thousands of mating parts like bearings and gears, that will happen regardless of the type lubricant used. It’s particularly important to change any lubricant early, and often, to remove the resultant wear debris.

Therefore, i guess that while an occasional high rev may not do any damage to the piston, it will certainly affect normal wear and tear of other mating parts.

So, we can infer that while the engine (read bore & piston) is broken-in at the manufacturing plant, other mating components are not and need to be run-in to get an overall efficient car. I guess this possibly explains all the posts about the engine being revved high in the plant.

My 2 cents:)

Cheers,
Rajan

Quote:

Originally Posted by anupmathur (Post 663417)

Thanx for the information sir. M confused about one thing, is the highest sulphur content fuel the normal fuel v get at filling stations or the additive added one?

and by the cheapest oil u mean the oil that the company people put in and not the synthetic one?

Just wanted to know this as m a newbie in the field of running in new engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by anupmathur (Post 663417)

More sulfur means higher lubrication. But using sulfur content higher than recommended for your vehicle will damage the particulate filter.
As for mineral oil, using oil specification lower than minimum specified can actually damage your engine during stress runs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 665202)

Everything within moderation! There is no need to go overboard tying to source high sulphur fuel!
And many manufacturers recommend mineral oil for the first few hundred kms. It is not that a good mineral oil will kill your engine!
Finally, I am one of those who goes by maker's recommendations. Always the best policy, IMO. :)

To obtain optimum fuel consumption, maintain car speed as far as possible, between 55 to 60 km. Per hour.
Do not use choke, unless necessary (only necessary in cold season or, if car is not properly tuned)
When choke is used, put it off as soon as engine is warmed up.
When there is starting trouble, depress clutch to start the engine(this would take load off engine)
Always start in 1st gear (to get max. power). Run upto appx. 10 km. per hour before changing to 2nd gear; 20/25 km. p. h. before changing to 3rd and about 30/32 km. p. h. before changing to 4th gear.
After braking to reduce speed, unless the car is brought to a dead stop, don't use first gear but only second or third depending upon the speed.
Avoid frequent starts/stops, to reduce fuel consumption, battery wastage, and starter overheating/failure.
Release clutch pedal gradually and simultaneously press accelerator, to avoid engine racing and car jerking shuddering.
Never race engine when declutched. Declutch fully when changing gears. Never ride on clutch pedal (this increases clutch wear and fuel consumption).
Don't run on hand-brake - preferably install a warning light device.
Apply brakes gradually as far as possible. Break speed by changing to lower gears.
Anticipate need for braking
Switch to lower gears on gradients (up/down) at the right time - when you find the vehicle dragging/speeding.

Look into these details mentioned above for a safer drive.

Note from mod: Plagiarism is strickly prohibited by board rules, please mention source while copy pasting.
Bharat Petroleum Corporation Limited:Energy Conservation Tips

Quote:

Originally Posted by docard (Post 728995)

I have a new swift vdi, got my first service at 1025km on the odo. they did a oil change and sdded some additive to the oil (3m additive ) said it will make the engine more smooth. will it affect the run in adjustments by the engine? should i have to drain it out and again change the oil.? plz opine

Ignore the matter...

It won't harm your engine.

see most of all modern engines are run in but the other moving parts have to have a run in period,for example the gear box.try to keep the engine below 3000 rpm and never drive at a constant pace .this would be the most simplest way by which we can run in our ride.
MSIL has its service schedules at 1000,5000,10000etc and for the first 1000 km msil have an oil change.this is to remove all debri in the engine which can constitute metal dust also ,which according to me is the most welcome.
ram