[Skyline GT-R]

I believe it is more related to the specific model.

Porsche cars generally do not have warm up or run in period.

But the 911 GT3 (475 bhp) which shares the same engine layout (3.8 flat 6) as the other 911s S & 4S (400 bhp) has a warm up & run in period indicated in the users manual.

[aurelino]

The operating coolant temp in my car seems to be 90C and it takes about 10-12 minutes of sedate driving to get to that, esp in case of a cold start. Not easy to have the discipline to drive like this.

[Deepak K Gupta]

The point to remember is that pistons tend to wear the cylinders into an oval shape while running and this tendency increases with load on the engine. So it makes sense to not overload a newly built engine. RPM is not very relevant. New engines must not be overloaded by driving in low gears or running the AC too frequently. While driving shift like an automatic does and protects the engine and put minimum load on the engine for the first 3000 odd kms. This would of course mean more clutch use but you will give a long life to the engine.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by aurelino

The operating coolant temp in my car seems to be 90C and it takes about 10-12 minutes of sedate driving to get to that, esp in case of a cold start. Not easy to have the discipline to drive like this.

Once used to it, it will be easy buddy. Getting in the discipline is easier than getting the engine internals changed.

Which car is it btw?

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Deepak K Gupta

The point to remember is that pistons tend to wear the cylinders into an oval shape while running and this tendency increases with load on the engine. So it makes sense to not overload a newly built engine. RPM is not very relevant. New engines must not be overloaded by driving in low gears or running the AC too frequently. While driving shift like an automatic does and protects the engine and put minimum load on the engine for the first 3000 odd kms. This would of course mean more clutch use but you will give a long life to the engine.

Again, do what the manual says. These days very little run in period required. The AC draws maybe 3-4 horsepower. That is really not going to overload the engine

[aurelino]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Once used to it, it will be easy buddy. Getting in the discipline is easier than getting the engine internals changed.

Which car is it btw?

It's a GT TDI. You can imagine why its not easy to control my excitement.

[Deepak K Gupta]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Again, do what the manual says. These days very little run in period required. The AC draws maybe 3-4 horsepower. That is really not going to overload the engine

AC will not overload the engine but the point is to run the engine initially with minimal load so that the piston and cylinder wear is even. These components have to set in while they are still new and therefore not smooth. Once all the surfaces are set in you can draw full power from the engine. I have done this with all my vehicles and can vouch for this method. It works.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Deepak K Gupta

AC will not overload the engine but the point is to run the engine initially with minimal load so that the piston and cylinder wear is even. These components have to set in while they are still new and therefore not smooth. Once all the surfaces are set in you can draw full power from the engine. I have done this with all my vehicles and can vouch for this method. It works.

Doesnt prove a thing. Stick to what the manual says. Did you check your manual? What did it say about running in?

These days very few engines require old school running in. You wont do anything wrong if you go very slow for the first 3000km, but its not necessary, so you just get very boring kilometers.

Jeroen

[H_Dogg72]

I run in my new engine, Italian style!
In my opinion, modern engines don't really require the low rpm running it, the engine should be exposed to different rpm conditions.
Well, that's what I do, one is free to do whatever he or she wants to do with his or her car.
And, AC Off?
That's just baloney.

[aurelino]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Doesnt prove a thing. Stick to what the manual says. Did you check your manual? What did it say about running in?

These days very few engines require old school running in. You wont do anything wrong if you go very slow for the first 3000km, but its not necessary, so you just get very boring kilometers.

Jeroen

My car manual also doesn't say if there has to be an oil change after 1000 km but it is much emphasized in this thread and elsewhere.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by aurelino

My car manual also doesn't say if there has to be an oil change after 1000 km but it is much emphasized in this thread and elsewhere.

Yes, it is. All people who think they know better than the manufacturer and the subsequent manual.

In all fairness, you could drive carefully for 3000 or if you are of a nervous disposition when it comes to breaking in new cars, drive carefully for 30.000 kms. It is not going to make a blind bit of difference. Other then it wont hurt the car and or engine.

Hundreds of millions of people never read their car manual, not are they members of this forum or have read this very thread. All of their cars are running fine, without so much as a thought to running in!

By all means, if it makes you feel more comfortable with your car, please do keep it up. The guy who picks up your car 5th hands at 350.000 km will be grateful for it.

Jeroen

[humyum]

I don't think running in matters much these days as long as you let the car warm up before you start being Jason Statham. That's all there is to it. The owner after you will be grateful if you have done that as well as changed the oils/coolants frequently and cleaned/changed the airfilter/intercooler on time.

[aurelino]

Got the oil and oil filter changed at 1500 kms. Looked carefully at the drained oil using a magnetic picker and saw a handful of very minute metal particles, nothing more.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by aurelino

Got the oil and oil filter changed at 1500 kms. Looked carefully at the drained oil using a magnetic picker and saw a handful of very minute metal particles, nothing more.

Did you do it at VW ASC or an FNG?

Which oil and what grade? Costs would help too.

[aurelino]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Did you do it at VW ASC or an FNG?

Which oil and what grade? Costs would help too.

VW ASC. It is castrol magnatec 5w40. Cost around 4900 total (including labour and taxes) for oil+ filter change.