Team-BHP - Bangalore Beetle Club (BBC)

Vikram, Karlos, Ajit,
Thanks!

My objective with the restoration is to return the car to period correct stock condition. I also try to actually fix as many of the parts as I can vs. replacing them. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy (perhaps even smarter), but I get greater satisfaction from getting the old part working (or looking better) -- this quirk does suck up a lot of time though, but that's just ok with me. (Though I forgo this on all safety related parts)

The main issues are/were (some have now been fixed)

Electrical -- over the past 30+ years, quiet a bit of the electricals were butchered by sundry electricians who had added various (and it turns out unnecessary) parts including a "cutouter" as a relay seems to be called.
The result of all this was various functions not working and some working strangely -- like the indicator light on the guage that would not light up while the indicators worked, but worked when the emergency flasher was on.

I pulled out most of the electrical wiring printed out several wiring diag that were in color, stripped out the extra wiring (including an ammeter) and the various additional relays that were added. I searched around JC and SP roads for sources for good wiring cables but finally found a store in Indiranagar that carried good quality Finolex wiring. Finolex even has striped wires.

Anyway, over a couple of weeks, I've been able to restore all functionality and match the wiring diagram down to the color codes. The job done by the last electrician was horrible to say the least.

Only part of the electrical not sorted out is an electric fuel pump that was fitted at one point --perhaps when the mech pump was not working. This was fitted without a fuel pump relay -- a bad idea. It's currently disconnected, but I've not removed it yet as it requires pulling out the stiff fuel hoses and I don't have sufficient supply of the german braided 5mm hose yet. While I was at it, I also rebuilt the fresh air fan assembly and stripped and cleaned out the speedo

Speedo stripped.

Transmission: The 2nd gear synchro has gone bad requiring double de-clutching on 3rd to second down shifts. The gear shift was also pretty loose. I suspected a worn shift rod bushing. So, this past weekend, I pulled out the gear shift, transmission coupling and took a look at the shift bushing bracket inside the tunnel -- a bit tricky as the only access to the tunnel is from the small hole under the gearshift, the inspection plate under the rear seat or from an access plate at the front of the car. What I found was a completely missing bushing -- I saw it lying in pieces on the tunnel floor. So on sunday AM I spent a couple of hours removing the shift rod, fitting the bushing and replacing the rod. While I was at it, I checked out hte transmission coupler inserts as well. I had new ones, but the old ones were good and actually fit a bit tighter, so I put them back in. Anyway, the end result was incredible -- the gear now shifts like new and even the 2nd gear synchro problem has been diminished considerably -- have not had to d-d-clutch since then. This has to be the best return on a $3 part (the cost of teh shift bushing) and I encourage you guys to have a look at your bushing. While I had it out, I also sanded and painted the gear shift in the correct paint code (LD43).

Some pics...

Transmission coupler, all cleaned up and refitted. This is the rear access to the tunnel.

The gearshift end of the shift rod (the other end is in the trans coupler. This is the other access hole. The rod has to be removed at the trans end and slid forward in the tunnel. The shift bushing goes on a bracket that is about 4-5" to the right of this hole. The bracket needs to be inserted without dropping it into the tunnel -- long thin finger would be great.

The gearshift cleaned with the surface rust cleaned off being prepped for painting. Thought the references indicate LD43 as the correct paint, I think mine actually came with a Silver as I found no remains of the grey/black. Will follow up on this.

Transimission coupler inserts, top row is the old (right cleaned, left as is; bottom row is new)

That's all for now, got to run...

BTW, I wrote to the Wolfsburg Museum and received the birth certificate for my car. Pretty neat. It lists the date of manufacture, when it rolled out, the original paint and upholstery codes, original options fitted at the factory etc.

Byas

Naren,
Timing? I hope I can get my car ready in time.

(continuing on my restoration saga)
One thing that bothered me about the rear suspension was that the right side sagged lower than the left. I contemplated doing int myself, but then I thought I could have the local VW mechanic on Hennur road do it. Very nice guy and he has looked after our car since 82. Initially I had believed him to be factory trained, but he is really more self taught.

Anyway... I met with him and told him I'd calculated how many splines each side should be adjusted -- to which he first said it could not be done, but then when I showed him the factory manual, he said he had his own way. So, I let him do it.

What I got back was the car sitting higher and still a bit uneven (though much less). I was annoyed that he had not listen to my approach. So took it back home and proceeded to redo it myself...

Here's the suspension disassembled...

I then dropped the spring plate and measured the angle with an inclinometer and sure enough, it was installed about 5 degrees more than stock.

I also found that the bushings had been incorrectly installed with the left and right ones interchanged. Here's the left side with the right side bushing. "OBEN" on the bushing means "top" and you can see that the thickness is different on either side of the hole.

Springplate now at the correct angle

Then as I proceeded to refit, I realized that the rear contral arm (the diagonal arm) had been fitted incorrectly -- the spacers were not placed properly -- they were different on each side. They should both be on the outside. In this photo they are still incorrect (one on either side), but I've corrected them now.

So if I can get the drums back on, shocks installed, brakes bled and adjusted tomorrow I can make the Saturday run.

Byas

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Convertible (Post 653033)

Bug! Welcome aboard AIRHEAD,

Thats one HISTORICAL car you got man.

Interesting, Lemme know whether its completely Original or Restored.

Man, You sure have got what it calls PASSION for your BUG.

Your pics are taking me back the memory lane, time when i used to get such detailed job on my BUG.

My restoration pics are on Bangalore Beete Club picassa album.

Sure would like to hear from you on your future plans. Pls post us complete pic of your Convy VW.

Note from the Support Staff: Please avoid quoting large posts in their entirety.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Naren4140 (Post 653774)

well done Byas.........will keep you posted. The Elite Motors-Volkswagen Bangalore cancelled their opening ceremony and our beetle rally

After my last post, I thought the only way I could be ready for Sat was to do couple more hours that night, so for the next 90 min or so, I put the rest of the stuff back together adjusted brakes/bled yesterday. So, bummed that the rally was canceled, glad that the note pushed me to finish up sooner. :) Will try to make it on Sat (we may have moved a school reunion to the afternoon thinking the rally would be earlier in the day)

Karlos --> you're welcome to stop by anytime :)

Pavan, yes the car is original. We've had it since 75. I still have the original records including service records coupons etc (these were the punch card reader type stuff that the state of computing then I guess). It had a respray in original color probably about 10 years ago.

I have interior in black basket weave coming in from TMI next week. Body needs some touch up on rust. Will drop the engine to paint all the tin and fix a couple of leaks -- Might try to do this myself as well, but will need to fabricate an engine dolly.

(will post some pics over the weekend)

Byas