My DIY Beetle Restoration Saga

71Convertible · 12th May 2008, 20:31

Have not posted for a while so I need to catch up.

Work I've done since my last post include removing the old muffler and tailpipes and replacing with OE German (Dansk) muffler and stainless steel tailpipes. The car sounds so much better/quieter now.

I also installed an original german Solex VW 34PICT3 carb that I bought from Keifernet. This made a big diff on the ability to adjust idling properly.

I also installed a replacement fuel pump. This was a pain as I didn't replace the pushrod thinking it was the original. But it had been tampered with to work with the non-std pump that you see in the pic. This pushrod broke the lever inside my new pump. But, I didn't realize that and when the new pump did not work, I assumed it was because of other restrictions -- so I did more work replacing the OE filter under the tank (bear to get at) and removed/retried several time. FInally I realized the lever inside was broken. Was planning to buy another, when I decided to take the orignal pump apart and see if I could use the lever from that. Some surgery followed and the new pump now works great and has been installed.

So now I am left with replacing the top.

Byas

71Convertible · 12th May 2008, 20:55

So, started the job of removing the top. (Sorry pics are not in order as this new process is not as user friendly as I wish it was.)

Started with removing the front. Taking a lot of pics on the way. I expect to run into the unexpected. Already have. :(

After cuttng through several rusted bolts (got to have a dremel - very handy), got everyting off. Still need to go thru and clean out the bows off all staples (there must be a few hunderd each of which takes me a min to remove) and clean off the glue residue.

Then I will take the top frame off to remove some of the surface rust and repaint it. Before I do that, I'll need to repair an old hack job where a broken bolt was welded in place. So need to cut it flush, drill out a hole and tap it. So need to get right size drill and tap -- or take it some place that has.

With all the stapling required (much better than tacks), I might invest in an electric stapler to replace the manual stapler I have.

The rear tack strips (pieces of wood at the rear near the body) to which the headliner staples at the bottom have been water damaged from the cuts in the top. I'll need to get new ones.

Will also need to get new bolts and screws -- some of which are a special type.

I also have a fitment problem with the new header bow so may have to order another one (or get a replacement from the vendor considering these run $200 or more).

Byas

71Convertible · 12th May 2008, 20:58

Missed one pic. The others did come out in order (got lucky).

S@~+#0$# · 13th May 2008, 09:21

Nice DIY Byas

How long will it be before work on the top is completed. What material are you going to replace it with? Rexin or Tarpaul (like in ragtops).

OT: Nice tool box/rack(red one in LHS corner. Is it Craftsman? PM me the address if you got it in India.

ajmat · 13th May 2008, 09:59

The old top looks as if it has been glued on!

71Convertible · 13th May 2008, 10:28

The top is in 3-4 layers. The layers are glued and stapled. At the bottom is the headliner. Then there is a padding cover layer. Then the padding. Then the cover layer is folded and glued over the padding. Then the top.

I'm thought about going with vinyl top, but decided to upgrade to canvas. I have the hedliner, padding, top, cables, seals, etc. Just need to get the unplanned items -- tack strips -- you can see in the rear side photo, the curved wood (actually a composite similar to mdf) pieces to which the tape is stapled.

Yes, Craftsman. Brought it with me.

B

PAVAN KADAM · 13th May 2008, 13:37

Aaagh.... Byas, what have u done to your car man (Karmann)

Anyways its a known fact that your convertible will come out on top, after your work on it.

Waiting to see the pics after the work is completed.

One more thing Byas,

My Beetle encountered a small funny problem yesterday.

I drove the car for almost 60 kms and at times the car was just stalling but not turning off.

Was neatly idling once i stopped.

I again get into the car and run it, it was running fine, this happened twice or thrice with stray incidents of car reducing speeds inbetween runnings.

I did a few checks once i reached home.

Fuel tank half full, plugs fine, leads and cables fine, tuning right but why did this happen is unknown to me.

Anything that you can lead me to?

Naren4140 · 13th May 2008, 16:30

see if you have disconnected the Automatic Idling Cutoff Solenoid...,or ur CDI /Capacitor may be shot could be another reason !!!

ajmat · 14th May 2008, 11:08

Pavan, it might be a hot air fuel vapour lock. Happened to our VW varient, loaded up on the autobahn in 1972. We overdid it and the car started stuttering. We stopped, emptied that rear to open the engine and called the ADAC. By the time he came, ir started again. He told us to go a little less schneller!

71Convertible · 14th May 2008, 19:48

Pavan,
Both good things to check.
Are you fuel lines resting on the intake manifold or the heat risers?
B

Naren4140 · 15th May 2008, 13:11

byas there is detailed description in the bentley manual on installing the fuel pump, you need to pack the bottom end of the pump where the pushrod touches with grease and the throw of the pushrod (either 4inch or 4.25 inch ) should be .31 mm.

PAVAN KADAM · 15th May 2008, 13:43

Byas,

No the fuel lines are not resting on the intake manifold.

Looks like the probs with my carb.

Need to get my hands dirty the coming weekend and overhaul the carb.

I am going to consult Carb King Mr Naren for help on this one.

Thanks....

71Convertible · 15th May 2008, 19:51

yes it was the longer pushrod that caused the prob. the instruction said to check for 13mm I belive (not the 0.31mm u wrote - perhaps typo). and adjust with gasket shims as needed. I didn't and broke the lever on the pump. I should've checked. Anyway, I learnt.

If you suspect the carb and have the Solex carb -- quick check -- on the left side is the idle jet. It's accessible from the outside. Pull it out and see if it has something in it.

B

PAVAN KADAM · 15th May 2008, 22:12

I just tore the carb apart 1 hr ago and cleaned the whole thing.

I had few newer jets, installed them and just put it on on the car.

Not yet started the car, will do it after dinner.

Byas do you think i need to open up my fuel pump and check on the diaphgram? or may be the fuel filter?

71Convertible · 16th May 2008, 06:13

If you think fuel starvation is an issue, then u should. What type of filter do you have?

The clear plastic type? Sealed metal? Where is it located? Better not to have a filter in the engine compartment of the beetles. Several instances of either the hose slipping out or filter leaking have been reported on TheSamba to cause fires. Suggested place is under the tank.

But, if the car is running well apart from hot idle, it's not likely to be a filter or pump.

B

12th May 2008, 20:31	#46
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	Have not posted for a while so I need to catch up. Work I've done since my last post include removing the old muffler and tailpipes and replacing with OE German (Dansk) muffler and stainless steel tailpipes. The car sounds so much better/quieter now. I also installed an original german Solex VW 34PICT3 carb that I bought from Keifernet. This made a big diff on the ability to adjust idling properly. I also installed a replacement fuel pump. This was a pain as I didn't replace the pushrod thinking it was the original. But it had been tampered with to work with the non-std pump that you see in the pic. This pushrod broke the lever inside my new pump. But, I didn't realize that and when the new pump did not work, I assumed it was because of other restrictions -- so I did more work replacing the OE filter under the tank (bear to get at) and removed/retried several time. FInally I realized the lever inside was broken. Was planning to buy another, when I decided to take the orignal pump apart and see if I could use the lever from that. Some surgery followed and the new pump now works great and has been installed. So now I am left with replacing the top. Byas Attached Thumbnails
	(1) Thanks

12th May 2008, 20:55	#47
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	So, started the job of removing the top. (Sorry pics are not in order as this new process is not as user friendly as I wish it was.) Started with removing the front. Taking a lot of pics on the way. I expect to run into the unexpected. Already have. :( After cuttng through several rusted bolts (got to have a dremel - very handy), got everyting off. Still need to go thru and clean out the bows off all staples (there must be a few hunderd each of which takes me a min to remove) and clean off the glue residue. Then I will take the top frame off to remove some of the surface rust and repaint it. Before I do that, I'll need to repair an old hack job where a broken bolt was welded in place. So need to cut it flush, drill out a hole and tap it. So need to get right size drill and tap -- or take it some place that has. With all the stapling required (much better than tacks), I might invest in an electric stapler to replace the manual stapler I have. The rear tack strips (pieces of wood at the rear near the body) to which the headliner staples at the bottom have been water damaged from the cuts in the top. I'll need to get new ones. Will also need to get new bolts and screws -- some of which are a special type. I also have a fitment problem with the new header bow so may have to order another one (or get a replacement from the vendor considering these run $200 or more). Byas Attached Thumbnails
	() Thanks

12th May 2008, 20:58	#48
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	Missed one pic. The others did come out in order (got lucky). Attached Thumbnails
	() Thanks

13th May 2008, 09:21	#49
S@~+#0$# BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bangalore Posts: 700 Thanked: 42 Times View My Garage	Nice DIY Byas How long will it be before work on the top is completed. What material are you going to replace it with? Rexin or Tarpaul (like in ragtops). OT: Nice tool box/rack(red one in LHS corner. Is it Craftsman? PM me the address if you got it in India.
	() Thanks

13th May 2008, 09:59	#50
ajmat Team-BHP Support Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Bangalore Posts: 14,863 Thanked: 27,969 Times View My Garage	The old top looks as if it has been glued on!
	() Thanks

13th May 2008, 10:28	#51
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	The top is in 3-4 layers. The layers are glued and stapled. At the bottom is the headliner. Then there is a padding cover layer. Then the padding. Then the cover layer is folded and glued over the padding. Then the top. I'm thought about going with vinyl top, but decided to upgrade to canvas. I have the hedliner, padding, top, cables, seals, etc. Just need to get the unplanned items -- tack strips -- you can see in the rear side photo, the curved wood (actually a composite similar to mdf) pieces to which the tape is stapled. Yes, Craftsman. Brought it with me. B
	() Thanks

13th May 2008, 13:37	#52
PAVAN KADAM BANNED Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: NAMMA BENGALURU Posts: 5,602 Thanked: 2,549 Times	Aaagh.... Byas, what have u done to your car man (Karmann) Anyways its a known fact that your convertible will come out on top, after your work on it. Waiting to see the pics after the work is completed. One more thing Byas, My Beetle encountered a small funny problem yesterday. I drove the car for almost 60 kms and at times the car was just stalling but not turning off. Was neatly idling once i stopped. I again get into the car and run it, it was running fine, this happened twice or thrice with stray incidents of car reducing speeds inbetween runnings. I did a few checks once i reached home. Fuel tank half full, plugs fine, leads and cables fine, tuning right but why did this happen is unknown to me. Anything that you can lead me to? Last edited by PAVAN KADAM : 13th May 2008 at 13:42.
	() Thanks

13th May 2008, 16:30	#53
Naren4140 BHPian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Bendakaalooru Posts: 126 Thanked: 3 Times	see if you have disconnected the Automatic Idling Cutoff Solenoid...,or ur CDI /Capacitor may be shot could be another reason !!!
	() Thanks

14th May 2008, 11:08	#54
ajmat Team-BHP Support Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Bangalore Posts: 14,863 Thanked: 27,969 Times View My Garage	Pavan, it might be a hot air fuel vapour lock. Happened to our VW varient, loaded up on the autobahn in 1972. We overdid it and the car started stuttering. We stopped, emptied that rear to open the engine and called the ADAC. By the time he came, ir started again. He told us to go a little less schneller!
	() Thanks

14th May 2008, 19:48	#55
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	Pavan, Both good things to check. Are you fuel lines resting on the intake manifold or the heat risers? B
	() Thanks

15th May 2008, 13:11	#56
Naren4140 BHPian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Bendakaalooru Posts: 126 Thanked: 3 Times	byas there is detailed description in the bentley manual on installing the fuel pump, you need to pack the bottom end of the pump where the pushrod touches with grease and the throw of the pushrod (either 4inch or 4.25 inch ) should be .31 mm.
	() Thanks

15th May 2008, 13:43	#57
PAVAN KADAM BANNED Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: NAMMA BENGALURU Posts: 5,602 Thanked: 2,549 Times	Byas, No the fuel lines are not resting on the intake manifold. Looks like the probs with my carb. Need to get my hands dirty the coming weekend and overhaul the carb. I am going to consult Carb King Mr Naren for help on this one. Thanks....
	() Thanks

15th May 2008, 19:51	#58
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	yes it was the longer pushrod that caused the prob. the instruction said to check for 13mm I belive (not the 0.31mm u wrote - perhaps typo). and adjust with gasket shims as needed. I didn't and broke the lever on the pump. I should've checked. Anyway, I learnt. If you suspect the carb and have the Solex carb -- quick check -- on the left side is the idle jet. It's accessible from the outside. Pull it out and see if it has something in it. B
	() Thanks

15th May 2008, 22:12	#59
PAVAN KADAM BANNED Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: NAMMA BENGALURU Posts: 5,602 Thanked: 2,549 Times	I just tore the carb apart 1 hr ago and cleaned the whole thing. I had few newer jets, installed them and just put it on on the car. Not yet started the car, will do it after dinner. Byas do you think i need to open up my fuel pump and check on the diaphgram? or may be the fuel filter?
	() Thanks

16th May 2008, 06:13	#60
71Convertible BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 341 Thanked: 110 Times	If you think fuel starvation is an issue, then u should. What type of filter do you have? The clear plastic type? Sealed metal? Where is it located? Better not to have a filter in the engine compartment of the beetles. Several instances of either the hose slipping out or filter leaking have been reported on TheSamba to cause fires. Suggested place is under the tank. But, if the car is running well apart from hot idle, it's not likely to be a filter or pump. B
	() Thanks