[boeuff]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Dear Behram Dhabar, thank you,
I will get more detailed pictures next week as I am travelling now. However what I did was to cannibalize the plumbing from the old filter housing and brazed it to the same position in the new one. Also made sure that the orifice sizes are maintained per original including the one on the central pillar of the old filter housing. Used a braided plastic hose in place of the rubber original and it sits without any kink. One interesting lesson learnt was that we have to blank both the filter mounting holes in the head as we tested with the new mounted using only one of the two holes and oil leaked from the bottom hole.

Photo attached for the oil filter plumbing

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Photo attached for the oil filter plumbing

Second photo of the plumbing, my iPhone saves all file names the same so unable to add a second photo in the same post.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham

1. Cooling system

Sir, cooling system cleaned as outlined by you. The water drained initially was of the colour and consistency of Caramel Milk Shake


The new water in the radiator runs clean when the engine is on and cap is off (cold condition).

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

2. Electricals: Please remove the nonsense in the wire carrying current to the ignition coil. Clean electrical connections will always work properly.

Before cutting the wire, I just pulled the wire and checked, and I felt the wire length will be short after cutting. For the moment I have kept it as it is, as I will need to replace the whole length.

[quote=DHABHAR.BEHRAM;3790110
Please post photographs of all 5 tires of the car, I will decide how to proceed [/QUOTE]

Front Right:


Front Left:


Rear Left:


Rear Right:


Spare Wheel (Needs a new valve pin):


Both rear tyres and spare wheel tyre are retreaded ones. The front wheel tyres are not retreaded, but one has some sidewall damage and I am not confident of taking car on bad patches.


Also, during service, I noticed one tyre has a whitewall, which is facing inwards. May be its painted and not genuine whitewall. Look forward to your advice.

Also, as directed, I have removed the jute carpets from the front floorboard. The pics are too ghastly and disturbing to go on a public forum
I cleaned the front floor pan area of all dust and debris. However there are 2 oval holes that seems to be closed and I could not figure out how to clean inside, apart from vacuuming to the extent possible. Floor pan on passenger side is in good shape, but on driver side there are patches of bubbling and rust. I have scraped off most of this with a patti blade. I found a smooth pale greenish layer under the grey paint of the car (which is quite hard) I don't know if its the original paint, or primer. I also have to remove the running board aluminium trims to which door sill rubber is fitted, and paint the area, as water gets there during wash, and remains there corroding the metal. Plan to sand the floor area completely and paint with zinc cromate primer on the coming weekend.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Sir, cooling system cleaned as outlined by you. The water drained initially was of the colour and consistency of Caramel Milk Shake! Both rear tyres and spare wheel tyre are retreaded ones. The front wheel tyres are not retreaded. There are 2 oval holes that seems to be closed and I could not figure out how to clean inside, apart from vacuuming to the extent possible.

Dear Gowtham - you have opened the radiator drain plug to remove the mucky water. Did you also open the cylinder block drain plug as I had mentioned? If no, please do, to remove the rust in the block. Be very careful with the radiator drain plug, it is very flimsy. Remove it and solder a brass piece there as I have mentioned. Front two tires are Ceat Safety Drive and they are good, they must remain. Ceat Safety Drive tires are the best for Padmini application. All three other tires must be replaced, so you will need 2 tires, preferably Ceat Safety Drive, then the best one out of the three removed ones can go as spare, to save cost. The oval holes are for accessing the sub-frame mounting M10*1.25 size bolts. These holes are covered by a small plate mounted with a self tapping screw. Remove it to gain access, mostly the whole thing will be rusted so it will just fall apart, throw it out and don't do anything to cover the oval holes, just leave them as they are. As far as possible, do not change any floor panel, just clean properly and apply good preservative. There are rubber bungs in the holes in the floor panel, remove them during washing to drain the water. Remove the original rubber mattings below the aluminium sills, do not add anything here, keep them open but paint finish them properly in black color.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham
The oval holes are for accessing the sub-frame mounting M10*1.25 size bolts. These holes are covered by a small plate mounted with a self tapping screw. Remove it to gain access, mostly the whole thing will be rusted so it will just fall apart, throw it out and don't do anything to cover the oval holes, just leave them as they are. As far as possible, do not change any floor panel, just clean properly and apply good preservative. There are rubber bungs in the holes in the floor panel, remove them during washing to drain the water. Remove the original rubber mattings below the aluminium sills, do not add anything here, keep them open but paint finish them properly in black color.

Behram Dhabhar

Sir, I forgot to mention one thing: I have tried rocking the front wheels by holding tyres at the top, and there is play on LHS wheel. I am yet to open the grease cap and tighten the nut.

I will do away with the rubber matting on the sills, but what I cant figure out now is, what must be used in place of the Jute mat? The mat not only covers the metal floor, but one of the functions is to also insulate the cabin from road noise and heat. Jute was a good choice, as by itself, it does not retain water. I also liked the plastic sheet setup in Arun1100's car that stops water and dust ingress through the clutch and brake pedal holes.

Also, the thud thud sound from underbody makes me feel that driving the car with this noise is going to spoil something, so I am driving very less, and when I do, very gently.

[boeuff]

Is there a place in Bombay where I can pick up gold seal door and window seals, glass channels etc

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Is there a place in Bombay where I can pick up gold seal door and window seals, glass channels etc.

Dear Boeuff - I know the owner of Gold Seal. I can speak to him if you want, but I don't know whether he still makes these parts.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Boeuff - I know the owner of Gold Seal. I can speak to him if you want, but I don't know whether he still makes these parts.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Dear Behram Dhabar, thanks
That would be quite helpful. I may come to Bombay soon and hope to pick up gold seal or alternate brands

[autocrat]

Hello Friends,

Some updates on the work done:
1) Removed the aluminum door sill plates and rubber matting. There was a lot of rusting on the passenger side floor and door sill


2) Scraped the floor with a metal plate to remove flakes, and then used 400 grit emery paper to get to areas with pitting corrosion. Cleaned with petrol.


3) Sprayed the floor with Rustoleum Textured Silver spray (paint + primer in one)




4) Sanded, cleaned and sprayed the remaining 2 rims:






Behram Dhabhar Sir guided me to do some more work, but unfortunately, yesterday I injured my foot (fractured a bone in my right foot). This morning I felt better so I thought of exploring the electrical connections.

Fusebox on my car similar to Boeuff's fusebox:

Request you to please guide me on the fuses from Left to Right. One seems to have blown and I don't know what its for. I don't have any manual. The lid has some fractions that I could not understand.

Also, the stock headlights were like candles, the reflectors were LUMAX and not LUCAS, so I presume they were changed at some point. I have tried to look for Lucas ones with P43T, but they are not available. I had to settle for HELLAs for now. Also, the HELLAs looked brighter to my eye against LUCAS ones. I will be using 100/90 bulbs now, and if its inadequate, will upgrade to 130/100. GE bulbs are not available in most shops I visited.



Also as I hate to make holes in the car, I used the fusebox bolt to hook up the headlight relay. Please do let me know if this is a good place to bolt it, or there is any other more suitable location.


Just fit the new sealed beam to check, and this is how it looks:


Look forward to getting help on fuses and relay location.

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Fusebox on my car similar to Boeuff's fusebox:
Attachment 1411073
Request you to please guide me on the fuses from Left to Right. One seems to have blown and I don't know what its for. I don't have any manual. The lid has some fractions that I could not understand.
.

See pages from my owners manual for fuse application.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by boeuff

See pages from my owners manual for fuse application.

Sir thanks a lot for this information

I will need to make a trip to shivajinagar to see if we can get original ones from there. However, can't step out as foot is in a cast. What a waste of time.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

The stock headlights were like candles, the reflectors were LUMAX and not LUCAS, so I presume they were changed at some point. I have tried to look for Lucas ones with P43T, but they are not available. I had to settle for HELLAs for now. Also, the HELLAs looked brighter to my eye against LUCAS ones. I will be using 100/90 bulbs now, and if its inadequate, will upgrade to 130/100. GE bulbs are not available in most shops I visited. Also as I hate to make holes in the car, I used the fusebox bolt to hook up the headlight relay. Please do let me know if this is a good place to bolt it, or there is any other more suitable location.

Dear Gowtham - get well soon and don't take chance with fracture, do exactly what the doctor advises otherwise you will have problem after a long time.

As I have told you on telephone and on PM, please see my post on page number 60 of the "Automotive Lighting" thread in this forum. If you do exactly what I have mentioned, you will get fantastic performance and daylight brilliance from the headlights. If you miss even one step, you will lose out on the perfect job. You must search for and get Lucas. It will be with P45t bulb and not P43t bulb. Now that you have forced rest at home, please read the page number 60 post "word-by-word, line-by-line", first collect the material and then do the whole thing properly. Finolex 84 is a must. Relay location is OK. Routing and taping must result in a work of art, not just headlight wiring. .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - get well soon and don't take chance with fracture, do exactly what the doctor advises otherwise you will have problem after a long time.

You must search for and get Lucas. It will be with P45t bulb and not P43t bulb. Now that you have forced rest at home, please read the page number 60 post "word-by-word, line-by-line", first collect the material and then do the whole thing properly. Finolex 84 is a must. Relay location is OK. Routing and taping must result in a work of art, not just headlight wiring. .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir,

I have (been forced to) suspended all work.

Question:
The Lucas beams I saw had similar bulb location as the Lumax ones on the car. The current setup carried a holder / adapter and a bayonet type (normal) bulb. Pics:





How can I fit a halogen bulb of P43T type on this mount? Will the bulb filament get located correctly? or should I be using a bulb of different type? This is the only reason why I did not pick up the Lucas beams

EDIT: The LUCAS TVS dealer told me that these sealed beams don't come with P43T mount.

I have read and re-read the post on lighting. The car will definitely be getting lighting setup as per the instructions on the thread.

I have procured ceramic holders also, assuming I will use P43T type bulbs (will change after your feedback on above question). However, is it better to directly solder the wires to the terminals and taping them off? I don't have plans to fit and use any extra lights on my car. For this car, I wish to retain the classic factory appearance, with good electricals and stock mechanicals.

May be try to get hold of a 1100D metal grill, and round side indicators, but that's it. Some small scratches on the left door and running board also need to be addressed.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

The Lucas beams I saw had similar bulb location as the Lumax ones on the car. How can I fit a halogen bulb of P43T type on this mount? Also try to get hold of an 1100D metal grill, and round side indicators.

Dear Gowtham - read very carefully, please. The headlight bulb connector which you have shown in the photograph is as per a very old American standard, which has since been superseded by an European standard long time ago. The first release of the European standard called for the P45t bulb to provide the asymmetric beam pattern with a 15 degree beam cut-off. This bulb is since superseded by the P43t bulb as per an EEC notification. This continues till-date. The actual reason is better filament locational process control, to enable the focal point to meet the very stringent European requirements as tested on the gioniometer. All this does not concern you as an end user, this is for R&D to meet the regulatory requirement (). As far as you are concerned, please buy two connectors suitable for Lucar type (flat type) terminals, they will work for both bulbs, P45t and P43t, because the boundary dimensions of both the bulbs in this area are identical.

Finding a Fiat 1100D grille in very good condition nowadays is like finding a needle in a haystack. Best of luck! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

As far as you are concerned, please buy two connectors suitable for Lucar type (flat type) terminals, they will work for both bulbs, P45t and P43t, because the boundary dimensions of both the bulbs in this area are identical.


Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir, thanks a lot! Is this the correct type for the Lucas sealed beam?:



I am still not clear on how the bulb gets located / retained in the sealed beam :(