[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Gowtham - I have copied my post dated 2007 from page no 60 of the "automotive lighting" thread on this forum and I am pasting it here for your ready reference, as you are working on your headlights now. Please use this information for perfect job! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Hello everybody – I have been scanning the headlights section for quite sometime and everybody has very similar queries. Which bulb / relay to use, how to wire etc. I believe that I have done some work on improving my cars’ headlights. I used to rally and as good headlights were an absolute necessity to go fast at night during the events. Also that my car’s headlights are very important to me so all my cars have the best headlights that I can fit in them. I am sharing my experiences with you. My request is that if you exactly follow everything written here – word by word and line – by – line, then your headlights will be very good. If you deviate, your headlights will not give you what you want from them. Needless to say, this communication is indicative of actual steps to be taken to ensure a delightful experience.

This communication covers only normal headlights with bulbs. As far as Xenon is concerned, I will provide details later.

Wires – use only FINOLEX wires of nominal size "65" series or more for all major connections. Use only FINOLEX wires of nominal size "14" series for switch actuating circuits. Nowadays, 84 series wires supercede 65 series wires. These are available and cost around Rs 1200 worth for some 20 odd meters. These are available in 2 shops in Opera House in Mumbai. One of the shops is General Auto Electric and Trading Co Ltd. (owned by Maheshbhai, my old headlight contact for more than 25 years).

Reflectors – cars now have their own equipment as supplied. Stick to the original reflectors. Do not go for aftermarket reflectors. If your car’s reflectors have "dulled" in any way, please install new ones. Look for the brightness in reflectors. Tell the shopkeeper to show you six out of which you choose two. He generally grumbles but complies and you get to pick up the best. Avoid reflectors, which have some sort of "pin-hole" indentations in them as light can get reflected incorrectly.

Round reflectors – the best headlight illumination still comes out of good old-fashioned round reflectors. There are 3 makes to choose from, don’t even think of anything else. Lucas TVS is still the best in terms of focus-ability, beam definition, beam strength, beam uniformity and beam reach but these are becoming increasingly hard to find, so if you get good ones, buy and keep them. Lumax reflectors are cheap, easily available but lacks the beam that a good Lucas TVS gives (I purchased Lumax and threw them out the next day). Hella India gives a decent compromise performance. Do not use reflectors which have the small light bulb holder built into them as it affects the sheer performance in terms of beam pattern and consistency. Also please do not use reflectors which have the typical pock marked design available all across now (OE on new Ambies). Reflectors come equipped to handle either a P43t bulb or a P45t bulb (refer below).

Bulbs – All new cars come equipped with what is known as a "P43t" type of bulb. This essentially is a bulb, which has 3 tangs sticking out radially at the mounting face. An asymmetrical location of the tangs ensures that the bulb fits the reflector at one location only. This ensures that the filaments are correctly located with respect to the focal point in the reflector. Before "P43t" became the accepted norm, the bulbs used to come in a "P45t" configuration. This consists of a round shallow dish, which has an angular locator on it. This matches the reflector. First see what reflector you have and then match the bulbs because P43t and P45t are absolutely not interchangeable. When you purchase bulbs, it is important to hold them from the base and look at the glass envelope. It should be perpendicular to the mounting face. I have seen innumerable "bent" bulbs, which will just not work, as the filaments will not get located at the focal point. See around 10 bulbs to choose 2. Before the P43t and the P45t days, there used to be a "Lucas TVS type" bulb but it is now more or less obsolete. I am using GE make 140/110 bulbs in my FIATS. They are awesome (but very costly too).

Wattage – The rule here is simple – more is better – more is brighter – more is whiter. Remember to purchase from a reliable shop / person only as there are umpteen number of fakes floating around (Maheshbhai of Opera House and his son Hitesh have been supplying to me for so long now, I am not a customer to them any more).

Bulb connectors – now this is a tough one. The best thing to do is not to have anything, just solder the wires on the flat terminals (I have been doing this for all my rallies). Just recently there is a connector in the market made of ceramic, which I have just fitted on my FIAT, and I am monitoring the performance. The wires, which come with these connectors, are nowhere near Finolex quality so if you still want to use the connectors, use only the last one-inch or so. Let the Finolex come all the way upto the bulb.

Earth connection – this is most important. Please DO NOT use the earth connection provided in the car, as it will not be able to cater to the additional performance need. Fabricate earth connectors from the Finolex wires, use round brass connectors at the earth end and solder the wire to the connector rigidly. Use an existing earth connector in the car to ground the joint (usually it would be an M6*1.0 size bolt to the body).

Relays – previously mechanically operated relays were available from a company called PMP Auto (Goregaon based). There were 2 types, the so-called 5 point or the 6 point. Connections are basically simple, there is a positive connection, two actuating points connect to the changeover switch and two points connect to the high beam / low beam of the bulbs. Any self-respecting electrician knows all this. Nowadays I use Bosch electronic relays available at good accessory shop for around Rs 100 a piece. These are made in Germany. Ask for the "Bosch ka headlight relay" and any good shop will give it to you.

Connections and fabrication of the wiring harness – remember that once you have purchased the wires and the bulbs etc, the real work starts. You need to be very clear on how you are going to layout the harness. You will need to fabricate a full harness outside the car by laying out the routing on the car, cutting the wires to correct length and then assembling temporarily by using insulation tapes at joints etc. Remember to lay out an extra length of cable from the main alternator terminal to the starter motor / battery positive terminal so as to provide an additional booster / shunt to the main harness. Once the "loose loom" is ready, take a big bundle of plastic tape "Notre" makes is good and start taping the loom in totality. The skill lies in the pitch of each turn, if done correctly, you will always get a "Wow what a wiring harness" from people who understand. To others, it does not matter but then in the night their headlights also don’t work as required.

A word of caution - please take a copy of this communication, show it to your electrician who understands and has the time, energy, patience and passion to do this kind of work. Whenever I have done it, it has taken me 10 hours non-stop from start to finish. Needless to say that this is an indicative procedure. Minor details may vary from car to car.

The beam setting procedure – in the nights go to a quiet straight road. It must be minimum 500 m long. Park the car in the center of the road and start the headlights in high beam. Stand in front of each headlight when it is on to understands the beam pattern of the other headlight. Set the high beam so that it is parallel to the road at headlight mounting height and that BOTH HIGH BEAMS MEET AT THE CENTRE LINE OF THE CAR. In other words, THE HIGH BEAMS MUST REMAIN PARALLEL TO THE ROAD AND BOTH MUST MEET EXACTLY AT THE CAR CENTRE LINE. Remember that you will have to DRIVE THE CAR FOR A LITTLE DISTANCE EACH TIME. Just standing outside and setting will not give you results. I need to get down and adjust each beam at least 25 times for me to get my correct high beam pattern. It took me about 2 months to finally arrive at my personal best setting on the beam pattern. A minor fog on the road enhances the beam, helping you to identify it better. Use nature to your advantage.

Any change to the Alternator etc? – No, not required if the unit is working and delivering output to specifications. Normally the electricians take short cuts when they overhaul alternators so if you are not sure, just replace the whole assembly with a new one. In the long run, it works out as better value for money. Otherwise if you want to overhaul, please use new diodes, a new relay and a new slip ring pack.

The final result – it has to be a WOW everytime, there is no doubt. Go down any Ghat road in the middle of the night and you will see your high beam dance from a rock face and then into the openness of the clear sky as you take hairpin bends. The feeling is exhilarating. If the convergence point is spot-on @ car centerline (RH beam and LH beam angle is same), you will have better control over your steering wheel inputs. This will give you full confidence to place your car exactly where you want it in the middle of the Ghat in the absolute dead of night. But you have to work hard to achieve it. I have done it for years. So go ahead and finally get good headlights on your cars.

Discipline on the highways at night – Perfect headlights is a must for our highways, but please use them responsibly. I have the self-imposed discipline of dipping my headlights, irrespective of what the opposite driver does. If I have to slow down, I slow down. No compromise. But if I flash my high beam, the guy gets a very passive message of who is on the other side and who means business.

My take on extra driving lights – I have used all sorts of things, but to-date, without any doubt, the best pair of driving lights that I have ever used are a pair of HELLA RALLYE 3000 YELLOW COLOURED DRIVING LIGHTS. Their power, reach, beam convergence and view clarity is just awesome, even in the face of oncoming lights. Obviously, I had a fabricated an additional harness for them as well. Also, please fabricate rigid mountings for such wonderful lights. Do not mount them on aftermarket brackets at all. All it takes is a little ingenuity. Ask me if you want I will guide you. I have used CIBIE concave round lights as well. They are good but it is hard to find a good pair these days.

Best of luck. I will appreciate your comments on this message.

Please accept my best personal regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Quite some time since I updated the thread on my car.

Firstly, A BIG THANK YOU, BEHRAM SIR!

Reason: TRANSFORMING A CAR IN "RUNNING" CONDITION to a CAR THAT RUNS AS IT IS SUPPOSED TO.

I have followed every instruction that has been provided in this thread, and tuned my car to EXACT specifications mentioned here. The only deviation is the headlights that are on HELLAs and will be changed to LUCAS in a few days once the permanent harness is ready. The Morris has Lucas beams and they are very very good. Like Behram sir pointed out, Hellas spread the beam more than Lucas, se we don't get as focussed a beam.

Fellow BHPian Srinand http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/members/srinand.html proposed an idea of driving our cars to Goa and back a few days ago. I was keen to drive around in my Padmini and I loved the idea. We prepared our cars, and another friend decided to get his classic 1983 LHD Mercedes Benz 240D alongside Srinand's restored-to-original 1952 Morris Minor (with a side valve engine).

So we set off on 4th Dec at around 1:30 AM from Basavanagudi. Srinand and his friend Hemanth in his 1952 Morris Minor and me in my 1990 Premier Padmini. Srinands friend Murtaza would start at dawn and catch up with us at some point in our journey.

We drove keeping in mind that we had to do a 1400~1600 km trip and both men and their cars had to make it back safely, on their own feet.

The early morning cold weather was best suited for these cars, the temperature needle on my car was just above the lowest point all through till morning, and we drove through thick fog. This is where the difference between Hella and Lucas was distinctly seen. However, beam setting was done as described on the lighting post by Behram sir - converging with the centerline of the car - and what better way to validate than drive in fog?






The Morris happily cruised along at 60-65 kmph and I maintained the same most of the time in my Padmini, doing occasional sprints of 80s.


The car did 113 kmph on GPS speedometer, while my car speedo indicated 120. An error that lies within specifications.


On sane steady speeds I got an average of ~15 kmpl, which, with 102 jet on carb, was quite good, on NH4.

The math:


We decided to take the least steep roads to ensure we don't over-strain the engines and brakes and clutches of our car, so we did Bangalore to Hubli on NH4 (halted at Hubli), and then we hit Yellapur, passed by Ankola and reached Palolem (our destination in South Goa) via Karwar town. We took the same route on the way back.

Stopped at Apoorva resort for breakfast near Davanagere - food was nice and the toilets were very very clean.



Parked in a Shiggaon hotel for lunch, and basic checks underway:


Cars Parked in Hubli:


We parked our cars safely in Palolem. I took my car out one of the evenings and we did a quick Palolem-Panaji-Palolem, where the car was loaded with 4 people, all my tools and spares luggage and the car pulled through the ghats quite well.

We started back to Bangalore on Thursday, 10th Dec, by 1230 pm, and we decided we will drive straight to Bangalore. I reached Hubli by 5 pm, and wanted to get wheels aligned as there was a severe left pull on badly rutted roads and gentle left pull on the flat roads. Might be a hard hit from a rumble strip (quite a bad one with tall breakers) I failed to notice. I felt bad to put my car through that torture. I am still cursing myself for being careless.

The alignment store I visited explained that they don't have anyone who can do the job correctly and its best advised to drive back to Bangalore as is. I was worried I might wear out a tyre if I do 500 km in that condition, and Behram Sir was there to help. He advised several checks and I did. Then he asked if the tyres squealed when I turn the car, and I affirmed. He told me to visually see the wheels from the front after setting the steering wheel is straight ahead position and adjust toe-in. This was done and the left pulling problem was solved

The car otherwise drove very well, the handling was perfect and the suspension, although noisy, was working to keep me comfortable.

Behram sir advised me to get the suspension parts lubricated, which I will do shortly.

The more I drive, the more I admire the car and deeper is my affection.

I also thank Forddodo, Boeuff, Fintail, Samsag for their inputs at various points to get the car in good shape.

I love my PP

Few words on Palolem:

Beautiful cove beach, gentle waves lapping the shores one at a time, shallow waters, not as commercialized as North Goan beaches. Ideal for relaxation, which is what we did. I learnt to float, and we did Kayaking and took a boat ride. The mornings are pleasant and beach is empty - my favorite time for that spiritual connect.

Some more pictures:





















The last 3 pics are taken by Hemanth.

The PP is a superb car - As Behram Sir had told me when I bought the car - bring it to specifications and you can take it all over the country - I think I am confident of doing this. Driving to Goa and back felt as easy as going to office and coming back.

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by autocrat

I also thank Forddodo, Boeuff, Fintail, Samsag for their inputs at various points to get the car in good shape.
.

Arre kya baat karta hai tum?

As a fellow petrolhead, giving those inputs were the least I could've done.

___________________________

That aside, it is really a joy to fiddle with the 1100/PP.

Driving on those State Highways - with the car doing 65ish KMPH - on 4th gear = ABSOLUTE BLISS.

[RandomUsername]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear RandomUsername - I got your PM and I saw MRX8141 photographs on the classic drive thread also, thanks, I hope to meet you soon!

You have said "after advancing the timing" I presume you mean after setting it to 10 degrees BTDC! I presume that all other engine parameters are set properly like valve clearance etc. Yes, the carburettor's volume control screw needs to be adjusted after the timing is set to specification. The "oil light" will come on when oil pressure falls below 0.8kg/cm2. This can be due to various reasons from oil quantity and / or quality not OK to complete engine not OK. As you may be having the engine with the bypass oil filter, the oil pump pressure regulating valve is accessible without dismantling the sump, but first replace the engine oil and filter if you have not done so far. Then I'll guide you on what to do further, step-by-step.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir, we managed to sort out the issue by getting the carburettor adjusted. I think the car was just running too lean, causing the engine rpm to drop while idling.
Drove around quite a bit after that without any trouble.

Here are some pictures of the carburettor(anyway to tell which model exactly is this?). I was considering trying to do the adjustment myself but wasn't sure about the correct procedure for this carb which the mechanic says has "two air-screws".





I want to change the carb eventually as the choke has been canceled in this one. A rebuild carb (without accelerator pump) is available at Sion-Koliwada. Would it be a good idea to change to the rebuilt carb before taking the car on a long trip? Just for reliability? (planning to drive around 3000km next week).

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

That aside, it is really a joy to fiddle with the 1100/PP.

Driving on those State Highways - with the car doing 65ish KMPH - on 4th gear = ABSOLUTE BLISS.

Very true! Its a unique experience - no "modern" car can match this pleasure!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

1. TRANSFORMING A CAR IN "RUNNING" CONDITION TO A CAR THAT RUNS AS IT IS SUPPOSED TO. I have followed every instruction that has been provided in this thread, and tuned my car to the EXACT specifications mentioned here. We drove to Goa and back, a 1400~1600 km trip. 2. On sane steady speeds I got an average of ~15 kmpl, with a 102 jet on the carburettor, which was quite good. 3. The more I drive, the more I admire the car and deeper is my affection. I love my PP . It is a superb car, bring it to specifications and you can take it all over the country, I think I am confident of doing this. 4. Driving to Goa and back felt as easy as going to office and coming back.

Dear Gowtham - thanks!!! . As usual, my reply is as follows:

1. You have physically proved that if you do things properly, the car works properly. Good.
2. You can still improve the fuel efficiency by a huge margin, there are many things that you can do, starting now, because you have now established the baseline. Everything that you will do from now onwards was engineered and was in series production, or it was engineered, drawings were made and released, but it was not in series production for various reasons (other than technical). I'll guide you every step of the way.
3. Yes, I agree. The smoothness in acceleration, the exhaust note, the "clack" of the gearshift rod as it stops, touching the bell housing face as you move it from second to third gear and the continuous mile-munching capability at moderate-to-high speed makes you endear to it like no other car.
4. Yes, you don't get tired. Its just like driving to office. When I drove from Mumbai to Simla, Chail and Narkhanda all the way up the steep slope of Wildflower Hall and back in my MMY43, and then when I drove from Kottayam to Mumbai in my MH01YA3238 (it was KL05G7629), I also felt that I went to office and came back! See for yourself.

ENJOY! Its worth the effort! .

Dear Randomusername - the carburettor in your car is Solex MCS1069BICSA with the delay valve but without the throttle opener. The choke lever is also missing. I'll explain everything when we meet, looking forward to the same.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - thanks!!! . As usual, my reply is as follows:

2. You can still improve the fuel efficiency by a huge margin, there are many things that you can do, starting now, because you have now established the baseline. Everything that you will do from now onwards was engineered and was in series production, or it was engineered, drawings were made and released, but it was not in series production for various reasons (other than technical). I'll guide you every step of the way.

Thanks Sir, will do. I will go back to 97.5 Jet now as I still see lot of soot inside tailpipe. The car loves 102 though, with a slightly higher idling - the gearshifts are smoother and acceleration is stronger. The car wants to keep going. I will wait for your inputs.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

4. Yes, you don't get tired. Its just like driving to office. When I drove from Mumbai to Simla, Chail and Narkhanda all the way up the steep slope of Wildflower Hall and back in my MMY43, and then when I drove from Kottayam to Mumbai in my MH01YA3238 (it was KL05G7629), I also felt that I went to office and came back! See for yourself.

ENJOY! Its worth the effort! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

The LHD drive story is just fantastic, have read that thread through

I need to finish some pending work on the car:
1) Install electric fuel pump. The material is all there, need to fix. Bought 4 sq.mm wire for this.
2) Lucas headlights with permanent harness. The wire cutting and layout is complete now, need to solder the joints and route the wiring through the car, and change the beams. The Lucas beams with 100/90 on Morris was just fantastic. The wiring will be tidied up.
3) Spray the underchassis with oil and lubricate the suspension parts.
4) As the alignment is disturbed, I will get it done again.
5) Badly need front carpeting - the rubber mats on the metal floor looks and feels incomplete.
6) High beam indication bulb in the meter console has fused. This will be replaced and the console tightened as most of the squeaky noise is coming from this.
7) Replace tail light lenses. One side faded so looks odd.
8) Windshield washer tank is present, but pump and water tubes are missing. need to see if I can get the washers working again.

Hopefully will do these things up in next 2 weeks.

The side glasses are not clear, too many scratches, can we get new glasses? Need new rubber mats too.

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by autocrat

The LHD drive story is just fantastic, have read that thread through

I need to finish some pending work on the car:
1) Install electric fuel pump. The material is all there, need to fix. Bought 4 sq.mm wire for this.
.

W.R.T electric fuel pump- Just ensure that the fuel pressure is NOT too high.

If one ends up using a fuel pump from an electronically fuel injected car- the fuel pressure is FAR higher than compared to what a carbed car like the PP requires.

The risk of fire in the engine bay is omnipresent-if one uses a fuel pump meant for an EFI equipped car, due to the higher fuel pressure- carbs may not be able to handle the excess pressure.

So, I repeat- be a bit cautious about the fuel pressure.

[Whenasked]

Sir,

I am in the process of restoring a 67 FIAT 1100D. I need a carburettor and a fuel pump.

I am in Kerala and I would like to get a refurbished/new one.

Thanks,

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

W.R.T electric fuel pump- Just ensure that the fuel pressure is NOT too high.

If one ends up using a fuel pump from an electronically fuel injected car- the fuel pressure is FAR higher than compared to what a carbed car like the PP requires.

The risk of fire in the engine bay is omnipresent-if one uses a fuel pump meant for an EFI equipped car, due to the higher fuel pressure- carbs may not be able to handle the excess pressure.

So, I repeat- be a bit cautious about the fuel pressure.

Sir, Thanks for the input!

When I was in the shop the guy insisted that I buy a cylindrical one that was made by delphi for some Maruti vehicle.

I insisted on UCAL and I got one of similar type (HITA) [I lost a UCAL one I got earlier]. I hope this will be okay. Is there any way to compare the fuel pressure of the mechanical pump and electric one? I think its better to compare the flow rate (disconnect the mechanical pump input to carb when car is idling and collect petrol for 10 seconds in a measuring can, and then connect the electronic pump and collect the output in a measuring can. If the flow rate of electric pump is more, then the pressure built up in the system will also be higher).

Also, the plan is to use electric pump only when the float is dry or in case of failure of mechanical pump, I am going to have a push-pull switch for this in the parcel shelf. Another location of mounting may be on the meter console where the piano key switches sat on older cars.

[HimuraKenshin]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Sir, Thanks for the input!

I hope this will be okay. Is there any way to compare the fuel pressure of the mechanical pump and electric one? .

I have a fuel pressure gauge that you are welcome to use.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by HimuraKenshin

I have a fuel pressure gauge that you are welcome to use.

Hello HK-san!

I am planning to drive down to Mumbai if a FIAT meet is planned - good time to test

How much will it cost to buy one? I will pick one up if its not too heavy on the pocket.

I also need to do some shopping for my car when I am in Mumbai. Door gola, floor mats, dicky rubber beading, small pieces of rubber on which the bonnet sits on the channels, door pad clips, and the like.

Warm Regards,
Goutham

[HimuraKenshin]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Hello HK-san!

I am planning to drive down to Mumbai if a FIAT meet is planned - good time to test

How much will it cost to buy one? I will pick one up if its not too heavy on the pocket.

I also need to do some shopping for my car when I am in Mumbai. Door gola, floor mats, dicky rubber beading, small pieces of rubber on which the bonnet sits on the channels, door pad clips, and the like.

Warm Regards,
Goutham

Hi!
It wil cost around Rs. 800. It can also be used as a vaccum gauge, so helps in carb tuning as well.

All the items you motioned are still available, do let me know when you come! you have my number now

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Gowtham - On the main jet, put 97.5, drive for at least 500 kms to establish its baseline on kmpl and tailpipe color, based on which we will take a decision whether to open the inlet manifold breather because you are running on MCS1061 which is an internal vent carburettor. On headlights, are you going to fit the P45t Lucas TVS or the old American Lucas TVS? Use Maruti 800 handbrake cable mounting clips to hold the wiring harness in place. Please ensure perfect wiring, for which you should get a "WOW"! Spray the under-chassis with diesel (don't worry, nothing will happen), then wash with water and then lubricate the joints properly with chassis grease. Clean the spiders without dismantling anything, spray oil on them with oil can. Ensure that the front wheel bearing pre-load is OK, then only check camber and caster. Camber is -25 minutes to +15 minutes and caster is +30 minutes to + 1degree 30 minutes in un-laden condition with 25/27 psi tire pressure. If reading is within this value, please leave it alone and set only toe, that too only if required. If at all you have to touch the shims, by all means do so, but do it sensibly. Don't let any grease monkey touch your car. DO NOT use MPFI suitable electronic fuel pump, the needle valve will not take the pressure, fuel will overflow. Also remember that you do not have orifice controlled fuel return line. Use UCAL FACET electronic fuel pump with the Maruti van fuel filter. Free head delivery specification is 980 cc/minute. When you install the pump below the spare wheel, remove the small plastic pipe from the fuel tank outlet to main metallic fuel pipe and throw it out. It is now 25 years old, it would have become hard and brittle. Use all new pipes only. I have made custom carpets for all my cars. Thick black material is available in Mumbai, it drapes very nicely. I don't know its name or specification. You will need a passionate seat-wallah to do a good job, normal guy will go mad so don't waste your time! Remember, do not cover the insides of the running boards, the thing will just come out. Nicely applied black paint is good enough.

Now I am further raising the bar - there is just no end to what all you can do. See the picture of the engine compartment of my LHD. See the steering strut support, I have provided a double pillar support to the drop-arm cantilever. Do it if you want, it helps in snap-shot handling by retaining the correct relative positions of the aggregates. I had this in my rally car also. This is the reason of the problem that you got, when you hit that pothole at 70kmph! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[RandomUsername]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Randomusername - the carburettor in your car is Solex MCS1069BICSA with the delay valve but without the throttle opener. The choke lever is also missing. I'll explain everything when we meet, looking forward to the same.

Ok Sir! We are also looking forward to meeting you.

Yesterday we took the car on a 40km test drive in heavy traffic. The car ran very well. The temperature gauge was showing around 80 degrees most of the time. Reached 85 sometimes when traffic was slow, but it would drop down instantly when the car got moving again.

Overall I am quite confident about driving the car long distance