[adheesh]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Guys,
In one of the older posts Mr. Behram had mentioned that the OE thermostat valve of a M-800 will fit in our cars. The valve is not an integral part of the pump. It is just close to the pump.

Regarding the OE thermostat valve in our cars was an integral part of the waterpump. Most mechanics mistook it for the car to overheat and it was often the first part to be thrown out if there was slightest of an issue regarding the cooling system. In the spares parts market, the thermostat was not sold as a part of the OE Autolec pump and hence nobody put it when the waterpump was replaced.

I suppose the mention in the post by Mr Dhabhar must be regarding the temperature thermistor in S1 which cut in the electrical fan. In S1s the cutin temperature is around 90 degrees wherein in Marutis it is 85 odd degrees.

Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

[ramzsys]

In my 137D fiat, there was constant upsurge of temperature. Radiator was weak, but it is the big one and serviced recently. Temperature went way above normal and suspecting the theromstat switch, i replaced it with a new one. Still there is no improvement.
I am now using it without the switch, and temperature is way low in the bottom. This is much better than overheating.

And i replaced waterpump too.

[ilangop]

Hi all,
It is getting difficult now-a-days to find the clip type wiper blade for my 118NE. Yesterday I was with my colleague while he was buying the blades for hi M800. Surprisingly the blade set came with a small hook that could be screwed on to the normal wiper arm so that a hook type wiper blade can be fitted.
I am thinking of using those on my 118NE so that I can easily find a hook type wiper blade during replacements. Also I want to go for a 14" wiper blade rather than the standard 13" one, just to increase the wiped area. Has anyone tried this before?

Originally Posted by adheesh

I suppose the mention in the post by Mr Dhabhar must be regarding the temperature thermistor in S1 which cut in the electrical fan. In S1s the cutin temperature is around 90 degrees wherein in Marutis it is 85 odd degrees.

I am sorry if I misled you with my bad memory. I think Adheesh is right.

Are the Thermovalves dimensionally same for all vehicles. I am pretty much sure that this thermovalve pops open at around 85 - 90 degree in Indica petrol models. In case if they dimensionally show no difference, can it be replaced with an Indicas. Whats is the recommended flow rate for this valve in a Premier Padmini or 118 NE?

[adheesh]

Originally Posted by ilangop

I am sorry if I misled you with my bad memory. I think Adheesh is right.

Are the Thermovalves dimensionally same for all vehicles. I am pretty much sure that this thermovalve pops open at around 85 - 90 degree in Indica petrol models. In case if they dimensionally show no difference, can it be replaced with an Indicas. Whats is the recommended flow rate for this valve in a Premier Padmini or 118 NE?

None of these valves can be fitted on our cars without adaptation. I cant day about their interchangeability between other modern day cars. With the current ambient temperatures and traffic conditions, our cars equipped with 4 blade mechanical cans can merrily run without these thermostat valves.

Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

[Karthik1100]

today at 12.30pm i changed my car's radiator cap to N.I.C make brass cap (7psi) and the result i got is, when i drove first 4km in the speed of 40 kph it was in 60 degree then stated speeding at 80-100 kph for about 5-6km temperature went up and was stable at 80 degree, i drove still more after first 10km in the speed of 120-140 kph continuously for about 7-8km temperature went up to 90-100. the temperature level is much better than before after a non economical drive under a burning sun. atmosphere temperature was about 36-38 degree. is my car temperature normal now?

[Karthik1100]

@ilangop, i am not sure about other models of fiat cars like Millicento and S1 but for a padmini it is integrated with water pump. i have seen the engine part by part. please clarify with Mr. BD about it again. if it is near the water pump, where exactly will it be. gap between head and water pump propeller is very short. and other inner part of the head is not accessible

[docel]

Originally Posted by Karthik1100

today at 12.30pm i changed my car's radiator cap to N.I.C make brass cap (7psi) and the result i got is, when i drove first 4km in the speed of 40 kph it was in 60 degree then stated speeding at 80-100 kph for about 5-6km temperature went up and was stable at 80 degree, i drove still more after first 10km in the speed of 120-140 kph continuously for about 7-8km temperature went up to 90-100. the temperature level is much better than before after a non economical drive under a burning sun. atmosphere temperature was about 36-38 degree. is my car temperature normal now?

I don't believe the temperatures - you still haven't confirmed if the gauge is OK, but the 90-100 is OK at that speeds. Most engines work optimally at a given engine temperature, usually it is 85 or 90 degrees. I always drive with the guage showing full in the Red, but this is a little less than 100 deg. when measured with a Digital temperature gauge.

Water boils at 100 degrees max. Anything greater than 100 deg. means increased pressure ( Super-heated steam).
Your earlier report of 120 degrees etc was result of the increased pressure due to the wrong Cap which increased the pressure. The increased steam pressure results in a 'blow-out' that sprays water all around.

In my opinion and road experience, either have the entire radiator - pump- pressure system working optimally or remove the rubber seal in the Cap. I have driven > 3L Kms and have'nt blown a Gasket yet.

[manishalive]

Boiling point of water changes according to pressure . And for 7 PSIG (equal to 21 PSI abs) the boiling point of water is 112 degree centigrate. There is no super heated steam in the system. Superheated steam and water cannot coexist togather, as any additional heat simply evaporates more water and the steam will become saturated steam.

The reason of using pressure cap is to increase the boiling point of the water, there by increasing its heat carrying capacity.

@ karthick: Is any way water leaking out of the radiator neck?

[docel]

OOps! Thanks for the clarification Manish!

It's a typo and should have been "super-heated water".

[Lucas_2007]

Originally Posted by Lucas_2007

Dear Behram Sir, this is the exact problem faced by a friend of mine. his car is 1986 PP deluxe BE. On cold starting the car the oil pressure light keeps blinking for 6-8 seconds then it goes off. Oil pressure switch is ok. He has been using 15-40 oil. There is kind of fine high pitch clicking sound not grinding as you have mentioned during high rpm. What does it mean??

regards,
Saurav

the issue has been sorted out. the pipe from the oil pump was leaking. everything else was just fine.
Clicking sound was due to worn release bearing.

[Karthik1100]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Boiling point of water changes according to pressure . And for 7 PSIG (equal to 21 PSI abs) the boiling point of water is 112 degree centigrate. There is no super heated steam in the system. Superheated steam and water cannot coexist togather, as any additional heat simply evaporates more water and the steam will become saturated steam.

The reason of using pressure cap is to increase the boiling point of the water, there by increasing its heat carrying capacity.

@ karthick: Is any way water leaking out of the radiator neck?

no leakage of water. my car's heating issue is solved.

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by Karthik1100

no leakage of water. my car's heating issue is solved.

Great to hear that, so what was the problem. I could be a good insight to others. Was there a choke in the system?

[Karthik1100]

@manish. i dont know what exactly the reason for over heating, a little bit over heating solved after changing the head and radiator, then changing the timing gear and chain gave some more good result, but after changing the radiator cap, got the best result ever had in my fiats so far.

[ilangop]

Hi all,
My mechanic is putting his flash gun & dwell meter for sale. As I am inetersted in buying it, I would like to have an idea about how much would a new one cost. He quotes Rs 1000/- for each of them.
As well, it would be of great help if some one could mention the numbers for the following bearings for 118NE
1. Rear wheel bearing
2. Pinion bearing
3. Bearings for the planetary gear set
I observed a lot of metal particles from the bearing cages, balls & rollers. So I intend to replace all of the bearings in housed in the rear axle.
Thanks in advance.

[mycarhasablower]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hi all,
My mechanic is putting his flash gun & dwell meter for sale. As I am inetersted in buying it, I would like to have an idea about how much would a new one cost. He quotes Rs 1000/- for each of them.
As well, it would be of great help if some one could mention the numbers for the following bearings for 118NE
1. Rear wheel bearing
2. Pinion bearing
3. Bearings for the planetary gear set
I observed a lot of metal particles from the bearing cages, balls & rollers. So I intend to replace all of the bearings in housed in the rear axle.
Thanks in advance.

well i have both the timing light and the dwell meter(unitrak i think). the timing light broke recently so bought a second one . but according to my dad today they should cost 500 and 1200 max (new) respectively

my suggestion would be to buy them new, mechanics as always will try to get as much out of you as possible. i just dont go to them anymore and just do everything myself.