[Karthik1100]

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

I know that horn rings for the Fiat/ PAL were accessories, but just how many types were there? I've seen only three horn rings till date and each one was different.
Any info on these?

Hmm, looks like only one person knew so much about FIATs. :(

Meanwhile, here are some engine bay pics found in FB, in an attempt to keep them 'surgically' clean.

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

I know that horn rings for the Fiat/ PAL were accessories, but just how many types were there? I've seen only three horn rings till date and each one was different.
Any info on these?

I believe since there were also produced by aftermarket suppliers, therefore the design varied by them. Three vendors that I know off are - 1.) Bravetto, Italy (OEM). 2.) Sweet Trade - Bombay India. 3.) Dilip Chhabria - Mumbai / Delhi India.

[RandomUsername]

Does anybody here have a workshop manual for the Padmini S1? If so I would appreciate if you could photograph/scan and post the fuel system section. I'm desperately looking for information about the Solex MCS1069BICSA carburettor and the correct adjustment procedure for it.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by RandomUsername

Does anybody here have a workshop manual for the Padmini S1? If so I would appreciate if you could photograph/scan and post the fuel system section. I'm desperately looking for information about the Solex MCS1069BICSA carburettor and the correct adjustment procedure for it.

Hopefully this is helpful:

http://www.maggiolino.it/download/of.../solex-web.pdf

[adheesh]

Originally Posted by RandomUsername

Does anybody here have a workshop manual for the Padmini S1? If so I would appreciate if you could photograph/scan and post the fuel system section. I'm desperately looking for information about the Solex MCS1069BICSA carburettor and the correct adjustment procedure for it.

Solex 1069 BICSA was introduced as a part of 1991 emission norms. There were two variants, 1068- without the delayed throttle release with a delay valve and 1069-without the delayed throttle release with a yellow vacuum delay valve (the colour of the delay valve represents the delay)

The only person whom I knew could tune a BICSA correctly sadly is no longer amongst us. However, I would try to post in as much detail as I can, whatever he has taught me.

Unlike your conventional Solexes, setting up a BICSA is very different. There are three main adjustments, two of which are visible, one which is the most important one is not. If you look at the carburettor the way it mounts in the car, you'd see one single large spring loaded adjustment screw on your right. This is the idle air volume screw. On your left, sitting diagonally at the base is your micro fuel setting screw (on regular Solexes, this is the main fuel setting screw)
Now coming to the interesting part, the main fuel adjustment screw, which is to be set for the car to run correctly, is sealed at the company for emission purposes, however, it can be opened up. If you trace the line that goes from the main-jet to the micro fuel adjustment screw, you'll see a bob that's filled with epoxy like sealant. I am attaching a photograph with the said bob circled. You need to carefully drill it out to expose the main fuel setting screw.

The main fuel setting screw is super sensitive. If your car is running, you need to take the ensure that the micro fuel adjustment screw is about 1.5 turns out and then very lightly, screw out the main fuel screw till the idling rpm increases. At this threshold point where the RPM is risen, screw in the main fuel screw by 1/8 to 1/4 turn till the rpm drops slightly again. This is a coarse adjustment. Like the name suggests, fine tuning can be done with the micro adjustment screw. Finally proceed to the idle air volume screw. Turn it in till the rpm drops slightly and then turn it out 1/8 turn to the threshold till the idling rpm stabilises. If you have access to a tachometer, your idling rpm should be 750-800rpm with the delay valve disconnecting and the vacuum port blocked out during adjustment. Hope this helps.

On that note, I realised that this is my first post on this thread after Mr. Dhabhar's passing. What he has taught all of us is invaluable. Our favourite topic for discussion was fuel systems and engine tuning and I've spent countless hours with him discussing various subtle differences between various carburettors and distributors and how 0.08 mm and 0.09mm warm valve clearance is better than the company spec 0.1 dead cold clearance!

Although I was away from this thread for a while now, I promise to be proactive and help all Fiat fanatics out here on all the things he has taught me, to the best of my ability. I know wherever he is, he's surely following this thread

Warm Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by adheesh

The only person whom I knew could tune a BICSA correctly sadly is no longer amongst us. However, I would try to post in as much detail as I can, whatever he has taught me.

Although I was away from this thread for a while now, I promise to be proactive and help all Fiat fanatics out here on all the things he has taught me, to the best of my ability. I know wherever he is, he's surely following this thread

Warm Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

Dear Adheesh, very nice to hear from you. Thank you. Means a lot.

[autocrat]

My cars engine was not idling right. Even after a carb tune up (including changing idling jet) the engine was jumping around

https://youtu.be/azkEfMnYa1Y

Set the tappets cold, the idling seems to be much better.

https://youtu.be/uVMET3SJnsI

The compression check on the cylinders was 120/120/140/120.

The idling jet on the car was covered with black varnish and edges damaged so Bhpian Boeuff who was around to meet us cleaned the idling jet for me. Main jet back to 97.5 and idling jet later replaced to 50 as I could not find a smaller one.

Mr. Manjunath, a dear friend of mine helped me tune the carb with a "Gunsons colortune". It is a wonderful real-time diagnostic tool - a glass speak plug that allows one to see the color of the flame inside the cylinder!

https://youtu.be/R4-2j_AaUU0

If you have a blue flame you are good, a yellow means you are running rich. Really grateful to Manjunath Sir for having spent the day with us.

The distributor rotor has both axial and radial play and I need to get better ones. Any leads?

Also, as you can see, water pump bearing seems to be on the last legs with the hum getting louder and belt needs to be tightened. Will replace the pump and adjust tension next.

[autocrat]

Changed the water pump.

The bearing hum was really bad. Check out the video:

https://youtu.be/15uEgemcXrI

The pump was replaced with a TVS one, the issues needing immediate attention are resolved.

Took the car for a drive. Engine is smoooth, will be changing the gear lever bushings next.

Goutham

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by autocrat

The distributor rotor has both axial and radial play and I need to get better ones. Any leads?

Catch hold of a used distributor from the scrapyard. For radial play, get the bushes redone from a lathe shop. Axial play can be tackled by adding an extra washer between the gear and the rotating shaft. Such shim washers should be easily available in 2 wheeler parts shops. However you have the carry the removed shim and the rotor to know the right size.

[RandomUsername]

Originally Posted by adheesh

Solex 1069 BICSA was introduced as a part of 1991 emission norms. There were two variants, 1068- without the delayed throttle release with a delay valve and 1069-without the delayed throttle release with a yellow vacuum delay valve (the colour of the delay valve represents the delay)

Thanks for your detailed reply!

So basically: 1) the main fuel screw and micro adjustment screw have to be used to set the correct fuel mixture, which is just before the point where idle rpm starts to increase.
2) After setting the mixture, the correct idle rpm should be set using the idle air volume screw.

Let me know if I have understood the procedure correctly.

[Carrera555]

Hello Guys,

I am restoring my Premier Padmini 1986 currently & would like to seek some assistance on the following parts. If someone can help me with regards to the same, I shall be highly obliged.

The list of parts I need are as under:
Two Spoke

• Steering wheel with horn ring
• Delight or President Instrument Cluster
• Cut Glass frame with Glass
• Fiat Monograms for front grill & horn pad

Looking forward.

Happy Restoring,
Karan.

[sandeepmohan]

With the fuel meter non operational, I seem to run out of gas as the car refused to start yesterday after many attempts. I opened the fuel cap and shook the car and could not hear any fuel sloshing in the tank. I stepped out and bought two litres of petrol and poured it in to the fuel tank. I could not get all of 2 litres in as I did not have a funnel. The noise it made while going in suggested the tank was empty or really low on fuel. A re attempt to start the car did not help. I also pulled out the fuel hose from the carburettor and found no fuel coming out of it even when cranking the car.

What is the minimum amount of fuel I need in the tank and how can I check if the fuel pump is operational? Is a scenario like this where I may have run out of fuel, is there anything I need to do after I fill sufficient fuel in the tank?

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

With the fuel meter non operational, I seem to run out of gas as the car refused to start yesterday after many attempts. I opened the fuel cap and shook the car and could not hear any fuel sloshing in the tank. I stepped out and bought two litres of petrol and poured it in to the fuel tank. I could not get all of 2 litres in as I did not have a funnel. The noise it made while going in suggested the tank was empty or really low on fuel. A re attempt to start the car did not help. I also pulled out the fuel hose from the carburettor and found no fuel coming out of it even when cranking the car.

What is the minimum amount of fuel I need in the tank and how can I check if the fuel pump is operational? Is a scenario like this where I may have run out of fuel, is there anything I need to do after I fill sufficient fuel in the tank?

Hey Sandeep, Your fuel pump is mechanical one? Having an electrical pump will solve this issue for you. You can try sucking petrol as the mechanical pump may not be creating enough pull. You can use a small can of fuel kept in the car (such that it wont spill) and connect this to mechanical fuel pump inlet and drive to a bunk to fill up.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Hey Sandeep, Your fuel pump is mechanical one?

Yes it is a mechanical pump but it is operating okay. I poured in an additional 6 litres of fuel yesterday thinking the tank was running really low on fuel but no luck. Fuel is reaching the carburettor. I tried cranking and pulled out the fuel pipe at the carburettor and fuel was pouring out.

Anyway; I have a mechanic visiting today to check on the issue. It is very strange. Will update.

[Karthik1100]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

I tried cranking and pulled out the fuel pipe at the carburettor and fuel was pouring out.

It is very strange. Will update.

If the fuel is reaching the carburettor and still not starting then it should be issue with some electricals. Step by step you need to check the plug wires, the delco and its components like the delco cap/ points/ condensers/ rotor and the coil.